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unholy_walrus

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Everything posted by unholy_walrus

  1. Loop leaked when one of my EK 45° adapters completely failed, so I re-did the whole thing. Basic loop, basic system. But it works, and it's all I can do with no budget.
  2. I had a leak due to a 45° EK-AF fitting that pretty much completely failed. It's a miracle I didn't end up with serious damage. I figured I might aswell move the rad from the roof to the front and generally re-do the loop. It's basic as fuck, but I'm working on a non-existent budget. The camera on my Honor 6 really doesn't do it justice either. I'll still need to fix the LED strips and sleeve those ugly ugly wires, but meh. I'm a lazy bastard.
  3. If you plan on watercooling your card, go for EVGA. Otherwise the Gainward card is the obvious choice because of the fantastic cooler it has. Also, didn't EVGA fuck up the Pascal cards pretty badly, missing thermal pads and all that? I'm not sure which cards were effected or if they've finally fixed the issue.
  4. Well, here's my super fucking ghetto setup for now. Notice the Noctua boxes that work as my monitor stand lol. Plan is to finish the liquid cooling project and get a new G-Sync monitor, but until I can scrape up the money for all that I'm stuck with this mess. The monitor has basically no adjustment options, but at least it's 1080p 144hz. As for the PC, a complete overhaul is coming once I can get an EK 280 rad and the fittings I require (WINK WINK EK). For now this works just fine. Note that all this looks about a billion times better IRL thanks to the horrible camera on my Honor 6.
  5. Those temps are perfectly normal if you don't have a delidded chip. My liquid cooled 1.32v 4770k hits 65-70c in Witcher 3 with sub 40c liquid temp, which is why I'll be delidding this chip like every Haswell I've ever owned. So far I've just been too lazy to do so, but soon I'll re-do my entire loop so I won't have any excuses not to do it any more. The TIM between the IHS and the CPU die isn't good but it isn't exactly horrible either. The problem is usually just bad contact. Delid the chip, get rid of the epoxy glue or whatever the gunk is they use to glue the IHS to the chip and then use liquid metal TIM between the IHS and the die, and be amazed by the temps you get. Delidding, when done right, is easy, safe and definitely worthwhile - especially with Haswell chips.
  6. What kind of heatsinks did you use for the VRM if I may ask? Seeing this has made me want to try something on a reference 780 I'll get soon. I have a bunch of small copper heatsinks I used on one of my R9 290s somewhere around here but I suspect they may be way too high to fit inside.
  7. I was referring to the power delivery though, not the vram chips.
  8. I still find most full cover blocks to be better looking, but I have to admit this is a very nice mod. It's definitely the best one of these mods I've ever seen - most of them look amateurish and sloppy, unlike yours. The idea is nice and the end result looks sharp. My only real concern when comparing this to a full cover block would be VRM cooling, but it seems that the reference design provides no VRM heatsinks to begin with (correct me if I'm wrong, I've never seen a reference 980Ti up close) so I suppose it should be okay with just airlow from the blower fan.
  9. I'd suggest going for whichever decent quality custom card is the cheapest where you live. The GTX 1060 should give you a slight performance edge in gaming right now, but I wouldn't be surprised if the tables were turned a bit in a while. If the cards are within like 10-15€ of eachother, I'd probably advice you go with the GTX 1060, but both cards will do well. If I had to choose a card, I'd probably go for a Sapphire RX 480 Nitro. Sapphire generally makes fantastic cards and I've yet to hear anything bad about the 480 Nitro. The 4GB Nitro is by far the best deal when it comes to buying a new gpu where I live; the price-to-performance ratio is really just amazing. Sure, the 4GB vram could end up being somewhat of an issue in the future, but the value is just so good. I'll probably end up getting the 4GB Nitro for my 2500k machine to replace the R9 290 that's having problems.
  10. In all honesty I find this whole PCMR circlejerk more annoying and sad than anything.
  11. I'm in the same boat. If I were to lose hardware now, I'd be completely fucked unless warranty saved my ass. Like I could replace the mobo alone, if I could find a good Z97 board second hand, and I might even be able to replace the CPU with like a 4690k or 4790k if I absolutely had to. But if like my loop leaked all over the place or I lost my GPU? Yeah, I'd be without a decent PC for a long time. Unemployment is hell.
  12. Yeah, those connectors should be really cheap and very easy to find. I hope we can diagnose and fix the problem soon enough!
  13. If the fans work fine, try running the pumps directly off of the PSU for example and see how the temps are. I mean everything here is more or less pointing to a pump issue.
  14. You can tell "that guy" that he shoudn't be giving advice about something he knows nothing about. He's so badly off that it's really making my head hurt. No, you don't have to worry about the cooler. It absolutely cannot get your CPU temp below the ambient temp. There will not be any condensation issues. You also don't need to worry about the cooler leaking. It's extremely rare nowadays and if it does happen, Corsair will be helping you out. Just ignore the guy and have fun.
  15. I really don't know how a windows update could've made your load temps go up. What were they like before? I'd just try to run the pumps at full power directly from the PSU just in case there are issues with the mobo fan headers. While you're at it, make sure the radiator fans are nice and good. If the temps still look that bad, I don't know what to say. I never ran my R9 290 with an AIO, but a single 120mm should be enough to handle the load and not produce 90c+ temps. The only thing that comes to mind really is a pump issue. While it's very unlikely that both units would start having issues at the same time, it's not impossible and I'm having a hard time finding an alternative explanation. In any case, your first priority should be to make sure that the pumps and fans still work.
  16. I had a metal phase in my early teens but I grew bored of it in a few years, eventually graduating to fucking weird prog which is where I'm still stuck today. Nowadays I just turn to pre-Heritage Opeth, Pain Of Salvation, Katatonia and Tool when I'm in need of a sort-of-metal fix. I still try to listen to some new metal bands every now and then but everything just seems so god damn boring. Same shit repeated over and over again. Immortal's Sons of Northern Darkness used to be my go-to album. It's kind of hilarious but still pure gold. I just realised how stupidly angsty I was as a teen. Fantastic. edit: I'll just leave this here;
  17. I'd go with a 1070 unless you can get a 980 Ti for significantly cheaper. A 1070 will consume less power and produce less heat, but imo that's not all that important. What is important is the way Nvidia has been doing things - a 1070 will very likely last you longer than a 980 Ti. With Nvidia I definitely always prefer going with the latest generation, which is why when faced with the same decision I went for a 1070 instead of a 980 Ti and paid a bit more.
  18. Yeah, they are. The EK kits contain fully custom-grade parts. However I'd recommend getting one of the newer kits that have D5 pumps. It's really the only pump I'd truly recommend. Also I think it's a good call not watercooling your gpu for now. It's really not worth it to put a 290x under water any more. Just make sure to plan the loop so that it'll be easy to expand it when you decide to put your new card under water. And finally; don't cheap out when doing custom h2o. It'll come back to bite you in the ass later.
  19. 4770k Z97-AR 16GB Vengeance Pro 2133 GTX 1070 FE EVGA Supernova 750 G2 EK/Bitspower/Phobya H2O gear I guess I'll provide a picture of my whole setup once it's done and ready. I'm in the middle of moving.
  20. I had a local PC shop owner ridicule me in front of other people, claiming that I know nothing about building systems after I pointed out that a) his recommendations had all sorts of issues and b) he was ripping people off badly, charging 200€+ for a new PSU install. Among other things he confidently claimed that a PSU install is "very demanding" because it includes "re-doing the wiring inside the PC which only a trained expert can do". Still, the all-time favourite thing I've heard from these self-proclaimed tech experts came from one of my old flatmates who was quite an Apple-freak and not the sharpest tool in the box despite thinking the opposite. During a small party he quite smugly let us know that being able to overclock a PC isn't an advantage at all. Why? Because it fucks with the system clock, making system time move faster, which will cause software issues. What made me sad was how the people around him went "ooh, I didn't know that".
  21. Yeah, I saw that and went "wat" out loud. I find it somewhat hilarious how he boasts with "20 years of experience in tech" while his recommended build makes absolutely no sense. Then again, it's not all that funny when guys like him make people who don't know any better buy the wrong hardware. Actually, he might just be one of those people who don't know any better, that is if he isn't trolling.
  22. You can't use them on a rad obviously. Get an anti-vibration rubber gasket, they're cheap and fairly effective. There should be 240mm ones as well if you don't want to use two 120mm ones. I think I'm using a 360mm one from xspc or something.
  23. The 970 for that price is definitely worth it. However I would suggest saving a bit more and then buying a 6600k instead of the 6500, and I'd also get a bit better PSU.
  24. Well that blows. I'm sorry but I can't stop myself from asking; how the hell did you manage that? I've been trying to figure out how installing a waterblock could do such damage.
  25. The ML-series fans work very well in radiator use. Note that you MUST use pwm control when using them or the magnetic bearing won't work properly. All in all the new ML-series fans are probably the best I've ever seen from any manufacturer. I had some issues with them ticking but my motherboard fan controller has noise issues with basically all pwm fans with CM FP 120 and Noctua NF-F12 non-industrial being the ONLY exceptions. I'd definitely recommend the ML140s over Noctua Industrials as well.
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