YubinTheBunny

Yup, cancelled my memoryExpress order because of this. At this point it's probably smarter to wait and see what AMD is offering with big navi since the chance of a pleb like me getting a card before 2021 is probably nil.

Yup, cancelled my memoryExpress order because of this. At this point it's probably smarter to wait and see what AMD is offering with big navi since the chance of a pleb like me getting a card before 2021 is probably nil.

I did the test with the original HomeHub3000 that bell provides and getting the exact same speeds... starting to think that it's bell's end. I'm going to wait a couple days and see if they fix it. Anyways, thanks for the help I'll probably res the thread in a couple days if I still have issues.

I know it probably too late for you to get a new case. As an owner of this case, I'm just gonna say your gonna have a pretty bad time trying to manage the heat. That being said, I can give you a couple tips that I've learned while trying to alleviate air flow problem. Since you don't have a radiator top this won't be as big of a problem but due to the way the top rack is designed there are mounting holes cut to accommodate different sizes. But the issue is that when trying to exhaust air out the top the hot air get splashed back into the case so the solution I did was just to use some electrical tape and taped up all the holes so the hot air only leaves out the top. If you do decided to add a single top exhaust fan tape off the other fan holes.  Another issue is the front intakes. The front panel is connected using a ball and joint system and the "ball" part is connected with screws onto the front panel. What you can do is put spacers (Rubber ones would be good because they can prevent vibrations) in between the front panel and the rail for the "ball" to increase the gap making it easier for the fans to pull air in. And if in the future you decided to add a rad top you can just flip the rear fan around as an intake and buy a magnetic air filter. I hope this helps.

That block is actually pretty heavy (heavier then the acrylic ones), but it should be fine since it's sitting vertical so the weight is being distributed better  so sagging shouldn't be problem.

It could be algae or it could be plasticizer but it's probably both. Do you think you can post a picture of the growth? It's probably both so you might have to replace the tubes after running the loop with 1 part distilled water and 1 part vinegar for a couple hours to kill anything still alive in the loop. And then make sure you get somekind of biocide when you refilled the loop with distilled water.

Well, tbf the loop will need to be cleaned and maintained every 8-10 months and assuming you get lazy and don't drain the loop until 12 months. Your still going to have to take the loop apart anyway so why not water-cool your GPU too so when you do upgrade to the latest and greatest gpu it would just be part of the maintenance procedure?

Well, tbf the loop will need to be cleaned and maintained every 8-10 months and assuming you get lazy and don't drain the loop until 12 months. Your still going to have to take the loop apart anyway so why not water-cool your GPU too so when you do upgrade to the latest and greatest gpu it would just be part of the maintenance procedure?

Well, tbf the loop will need to be cleaned and maintained every 8-10 months and assuming you get lazy and don't drain the loop until 12 months. Your still going to have to take the loop apart anyway so why not water-cool your GPU too so when you do upgrade to the latest and greatest gpu it would just be part of the maintenance procedure?

The closer you can get the ring frequency to your core frequency is usually better (or ideal) and you can gain some performance for certain work loads. But prioritise your core clocks over the ring as the performance gain from a ring oc is pretty minimal for the most part so usually not worth the extra power consumption and heat output.

If you don't want to do a full custom loop just get a EVGA Hybrid kit and convert it. I'm assuming the Aero is reference PCB, the cheaper 1080's usually are. 

Using a tempered glass on my switch right now, can confirm it will fit fine. Also once you get it you can slide it in glass first to prevent scratching of the back side of the console.

Why not use speedfan? I use it and JaysTwoCents did a tutorial on it. 
 

You just go back into the bios and reset it back to the default values. Usually there's a hotkey of some kind for it to load into defaults. Or use the jumper on the motherboard.

Megahertz? That is how you abbreviate it. (But if you want to be picky the M and H should be caps but whateves)

ROTTR have been know to have problems with nivdia cards I'm pretty sure. But try reinstalling your drivers with DDU and see if that helps. Also hitting 144fps on max settings is a little bit unrealistic on expectations. In some games the even the 1080 can't hit 144fps on max settings @ 1080p.  That's why you should check benchmarks before buying, always, so you know what your should be expecting when you get your gpu.

Yes, an unstable memory clock can cause games to freeze, crash and artifact. So you might have to dial it down until it stops doing that.

Megahertz? That is how you abbreviate it. (But if you want to be picky the M and H should be caps but whateves)

Coil whine is fine if your worried your card is breaking or something. But like the silicon, coil whine is pretty much up to lottery in terms of who gets it or not.

EVGA

They do the same thing really, so use what you want. I just right click on the drive then hit format because I'm lazy.

It's fine if you don't have the top fans, they just help dissipate the system heat and it won't effect cooling performance too much. (and I just enjoy filling up all the fan spots)

Yup, if it deactivates then give windows a call. There should a prompt when you boot up (If window deactivates)

Not really, your windows might deactivate though (mine did when I did a processor swap) so you might have to reactivate it. But it's pretty much just plug and play.

It's called a UPS, you can probably get a decent one on amazon for a decent price. I use a 865W from APC LINK. Depending on your pc's peak pull on wattage, you also need headroom. The battery should to be replaced around every 3 years so you have full capacity and to keep it working. I really only use it to clean the power up and counter the dips from my AC/Heater.
 
Side note: If my pc is on full load (eg.encoding, rendering or gaming) my UPS only last about 5-8mins.