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Everything posted by YubinTheBunny

  1. The op would also need to figure out how to authenticate to the isp if what he's doing is connecting direct to isp. Usually it's gonna be pppoe (with some sort of vlan tagging) or DHCP and it might need finagling with configs to get it to actually connect. Unless he means to connect from fiber media from a router or a switch or something then that's whatever he set on those boxes.
  2. Mind posting your the specs of the PC you're testing with? And the card you are using? Sometimes a too slow of a system can be the bottle neck of the network speeds. Also just because the port of the card says gigabit doesn't mean it can handle gigabit throughput. I'm assuming the modem/router is probably fine, but if you have extra equipment laying around you could try to bypass the modem they gave you with bridge mode cus maybe it can't handle routing at gigabit speeds?
  3. This is the IP for league's NA server: They have ICMP protection so the MS will be a little higher then what you actuality get in game but should be fine if you're just using it to compare ping between different networks.
  4. Unless you plan on upgrading to the 1.5gb plan later on I would just try to find routing equipment that can handle vlan tagging and pppoe at gigabit speeds (ether get a fiber to ethernet converter or a router that can take a sfp module) with maybe with some NAT rules and filters. To hit the 1.5gbs speeds you need a router or NIC that can sync at 2.5gbs and there isn't that many options. Currently I'm using a mikrotik RB-3011 to bypass for the 1gb fiber. But this router is pretty difficult to configure unless you're savvy with cmdline. PFsense is another good options, but do research on the NICs you're going to use if you do that because not all NIC's can do pppoe at gigabit due to some issue with freebsd and the drivers so pppoe is limited to a single thread. IMO the best route to go is get a dedicated enterprise router (Ether you buy one or build one or virtualize one) and a dedicated switch because most enterprise grade routers don't have a switch built into them and you should be good to go. But if you're deadset on using your own equipment for 1.5gb here a link to the options: https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r32293970-Media-converter-for-1-5G Sorry if my thoughts are all over the place, it's a bit early for me.
  5. Personally I use a MikroTik RB3011 that takes a gpon sfp direct from the provider (connected after setting vlan tagging, pppoe, fasttracking). I doubt you'll be able to do that as most isps try to lock you down, but if you set the provider's modem to bridge mode and then getting another router you probably put together a cost effective solution. What isp do you have now? Maybe it's one of those that allows you to bypass with your own gear? Also if you do get a modem try to get on that have hardware acceleration, it will help sustain the gigabit speeds during heavy use.
  6. There's a couple ways I can bypass the homehub. 1) Using pppoe passthrough 2) Media converter 3) sfp pci-e card. But I think bell solved whatever issue is at their end because I'm getting full speeds again. Yay!
  7. I did the test with the original HomeHub3000 that bell provides and getting the exact same speeds... starting to think that it's bell's end. I'm going to wait a couple days and see if they fix it. Anyways, thanks for the help I'll probably res the thread in a couple days if I still have issues.
  8. I did the speedtest with parameters you listed and my results are still the same. Disabled offloading and changed the mtu but still getting the same speeds.
  9. http://www.dslreports.com/speedtest/40948724 So recently I upgraded to gigabit fiber internet and I decided to upgrade my router to a pfsense router that I built using spare pc parts. The issue is that I know my hardware can handle the gigabit connection but for some reason my download speeds are only about 50-60% of what they should be and I don't know what's the issue. I'm also not that familiar with pf sense so there might be some secret sauce config that I might need in order to hit that magic gigabit number. The fiber line is connected to the router via a sfp to rj45 media converter which could be the issue, but it would also affect the upload I assume if that was the case? Router specs: i5 4670k 16gb of ram 2x 1210-t1 intel nics
  10. Depending on the method your isp connects to you to your modem you can just bridge the modem to your router and then set the router to connect to your isp. PPPoe or DHCP are the 2 most common ways of connecting, at least in Ontario because everything is ether part or using parts of bell or rogers lines. And if you don't have a nice router, its a good investment because you can use it from isp to isp and usually a nice personal router will be way better then whatever the isp will provide. Plus I like control put in my hands and putting in custom firewall rules etc.
  11. I've sent the support an email and hopefully someone will get to it soon. Thanks for the link. I tried and it still doesn't work so I'm assuming it's an issue beyond what I can do. So hopefully the floatplane guys will help me sort it out.
  12. So I don't know where to post to get support for this so I'll post it here and hope someone from the floatplane staff will see this but I paid for floatplane and can access it fine on the LMG forums, but for some reason on the official site it says that I'm not subscribed. I'm assuming it's some kind of bug in the backend. It's not a major issue as I can still see the content I paid for, but It's just nicer to use the site.
  13. Just make sure there's no plasticizer in the tubing (the stuff that makes the tubing soft) cus that will leach out over time and clog the blocks up.
  14. Gamers nexus have done quite a few of these disassemblies if you want to look for them. Usually most of the aio's share the same design (Aseteck is the biggest and most commonly used supplier) so once you see the one disassembly you've seen them all. The only thing different would be the PCB to control the rgbs or the temp monitors.
  15. Have you updated/install Python 3.7? I had a similar issue and doing that fixed it for me.
  16. If you get all your parts from a Chinese brand like barrow then its possible to get everything you need close to the budget. It would just take a really long time to get the parts due to shipping.
  17. Ya, that's super weird, I wonder if the block is faulty? (which is rare) Well, you could try to RMA the card or you could get another waterblock for it if reapplying the paste and reseating doesn't work. The board is the same as a strix boards so any of those blocks will fit the Poseidon. I linked the temps that I get for my Poseidon with a 23C ambient. Cooled with a 360 and a 240mm rads with noctua NF-F12s maxed out.
  18. I get most of my stuff from a mix of amazon and Dazmode. Amazon only have alphacool stuff with prime shipping right now with reasonable prices. Idk what the shipping will be like since you live in SK, but knowing the shipping rates in Canada it probably won't be cheaper, but still cheaper than international shipping I would guess. https://www.dazmode.com/store/ https://www.amazon.ca/Alphacool/b/ref=bl_dp_s_web_10038472011?ie=UTF8&node=10038472011&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Alphacool
  19. The temp decrease imo is not worth the effort or money. Unless you happen to have one of those AIO units laying around from an old project or something.
  20. Yes, the heatpipes that the water run through are made of nickle platted copper. So ya, don't use aluminum. EDIT: Also I'm assuming the op is talking about the EK gaming fluid kits.
  21. If your willing to spend some more cash, you can get a modded top panel replacement for the case with mesh cutouts. Also do the spacer and tape mods to the case to increase the intake and prevent air from splashing back down from the top panel.
  22. The issue is not the thermal paste you use, it's the one that intel uses under the heat spreader. Also with the rad heating up, it could be your rad is getting over saturated with heat because the fans can't wick the heat off the fins.
  23. I know it probably too late for you to get a new case. As an owner of this case, I'm just gonna say your gonna have a pretty bad time trying to manage the heat. That being said, I can give you a couple tips that I've learned while trying to alleviate air flow problem. Since you don't have a radiator top this won't be as big of a problem but due to the way the top rack is designed there are mounting holes cut to accommodate different sizes. But the issue is that when trying to exhaust air out the top the hot air get splashed back into the case so the solution I did was just to use some electrical tape and taped up all the holes so the hot air only leaves out the top. If you do decided to add a single top exhaust fan tape off the other fan holes. Another issue is the front intakes. The front panel is connected using a ball and joint system and the "ball" part is connected with screws onto the front panel. What you can do is put spacers (Rubber ones would be good because they can prevent vibrations) in between the front panel and the rail for the "ball" to increase the gap making it easier for the fans to pull air in. And if in the future you decided to add a rad top you can just flip the rear fan around as an intake and buy a magnetic air filter. I hope this helps.
  24. That block is actually pretty heavy (heavier then the acrylic ones), but it should be fine since it's sitting vertical so the weight is being distributed better so sagging shouldn't be problem.
  25. You also might want to check if you SO is allergic to anything in the coolant (Assuming you used it).