shark103

So you spent quite a lot of money 3800x, 570 board,2080 and got a cheap and nasty PSU - did someone advise you on that ? Every PSU in reality has a Tier there is a list here on the forum also. They don't mean that PC with low tier will not work at all, it means that it could be not suitable for a PC that is on some level by components. It's based on quality of internal components of PSU, how it behaves under load etc. Your is "Tier D - Potentially dangerous, but only in specific situations" for your component most people wouldn't even think about that PSU. With 99% certainty I would say that PSU while under heavy load (or load that has high peaks) it not supplying enough juice and system crashes. PS. Smart Pro RGB would also be good for your build.

Did he use the same pc to create installation usb drive ? Maybe that's where the problem is.

Re-seat every component - just take it apart and put it back slowly, sometimes even the most experienced pc builders make small mistakes like not pushing ram in all the way. Make sure that RAM in in the correct slots - take a look at mobo manual. Start with 1 stick of RAM - nothing replace for the other one. Also start with no SSD installed - you can get into bios without a drive. So steps are : 1. disassemble everything 2. assemble basic config - cpu, gpu, 1 ram module, remember to plug all psu connectors (main mobo, cpu power, gpu power - try that 3 if 2 didnt work replace ram with the other one, if worked add 2 module 4. if 3 worked either way and you got into bios add nvme drive, if didn't work write back and we'll think some more

Quick answer - sorry but no. Bios update equals clearing saved presets in most cases.

Hit it with synthetic load to see if PSU is not the problem as you used a B tier psu for a mid/high end system. For example kombustor and p95

Did it work without a problem before "re-paste accident" under similar conditions ? Any occasional crashes, freezes etc ? That PSU you got is which one: - Smart M - Smart BX1 /BX1 RGB - Smart Pro RGB - Smart DPS G There are quite few thermaltakes with "smart" in name but none that is called "smartpower" This is important as each of them is from different tier and only the last one (Smart DPS G) is suitable in 100% for 2080 and 3800x.

Try reinstalling newest bios but via bios - Asus EZ Flash Download bios from asus site, put it on a usb stick, launch bios , launch EZ Flash, install. If that won't solve the issue you could also downgrade bios to older working version

You've got one stick so there is only one slot in the mobo where that RAM should go. RAM timings are correct in BIOS ? Sometimes on some mobos "auto" picks wrong values. Use Ryzen DRAM Calculator to get "SAFE" values and make sure that those are set in BIOS.

You wrote that this happens while gaming so GPU under load and tested CPU temps. Test it with high synthetic GPU load. Maybe you didn't clean everything from the socket and there is a problem with CPU <> GPU communication when GPU is under load and that results in crashes.

Glad it came out finally

Point 3 I meant this Maybe slot for that is tight and this part got stuck there or it has some kind of extra latch. Edit: Found official Dell page with instruction for removal. There is only latch and blue lever https://www.dell.com/support/article/pl-pl/sln298073/optiplex-9010-desk-top-teardown-removal-guide-for-customer-replaceable-units-crus?lang=en If you are sure that that blue lever is not holding it try rocking it front to back gently in the port and sideways (but very gently in this direction) - just to be 100% clear this time front is bracket , back is end of card above blue lever. If nothing still works then the best option would be to take out the whole motherboard - it will be possible if card is stuck in the port, won't be if this is a case with bracket stuck. It will allow you to better see what is wrong with pci port and you have a wider field of operation .

There are 4 points that could get stuck. 1. Silver latch with blue sticker is the gpu bracket moving / can you giggle it ? 2. Blue tab - not as C2dan88 said the opposite way. Look at the bottom one, the notch is on PSU side. This needs to be pushed towards CPU, if you push it towards PSU you kinda make sure that you won't be able to take it out. 3. Other side of gpu bracket could get stuck a bit - rotate whole pc to see the back of mobo tray and there should be a series of small slots that card brackets go into 4. pci slot pins are seized with card due to gunk/rust/oxidation -very unlikely seen a case like that only once in my life,

Hey, No signal on monitor or "connected" but no picture (black screen) ? Things to check: 0. Monitor settings - is input not locked to hdmi instead of auto ? Even if auto then change to DP and test 1. Nvidia Control Panel 2. Different DP port on 1070 3. This monitor on another pc / different dp monitor on this pc - if possible

550W is enough for this if you leave the system stock, if you won't overclock it too much but you probably will want to push it and high as you can with stable temps. Another thing you won't buy founders and leave it an stock I image but card will be overclocked by manufacturer or even you. You would be really on the line with 550W one. Additionally if you decide to put extra hdd or anything more than 1-2 fans more then you will be even more on the line. 850W is way too much, good 650W is in my opinion a sweet spot.

That video kinda suggest to me 1 thing with two possible reasons. 1. PSU is faulty but in a weird way (like one power line is started to degenerate) that's why this kind of things happen 2. Long shot, but I've had this weird case on one mobo 2-3 years ago. Do you use the same peripherals (mouse/keyboard) all the time on this machine while testing- I've had an issue in the past where keyboard/mouse would short out mobo usb port ever so slightly that bsods happened or just straight powerdowns

For Ryzen 5 3600 x570 mb is an overkill. Buy a good MSI B450 like Tomahawk MAX or B450-a PRO MAX and you will be happy with it. PSU and cooler I agree with dizmo

X570 is just not needed, especially for r5 3600. If not Tomahawk then search for b450-a pro

If you opened it and cleaned the fan then i assume you could also change the thermal paste - did you do it already ?

First thing to do - take the CMOS battery out (google it if you don't know what to look for on MB). To be safe unplug it, press the power button 2-3 times (ofc it won't start or anything but we want to discharge caps), remove CMOS battery, wait 10min, replace the battery (get a new one if current one is old/low voltage - if you know/can test it), plug it in, report if anything changed.

Only gaming PC ? Give us a bit more info

B450 motherboard from MSI like Tomahawk or -a pro - version MAX 2060 super gigabyte gaming M.2 drive not sata

If you want good and quiet gpu go for Gigabyte Gaming Oc version of 2060 not PNY Motherboard I agree with lee32uk you don't need x570 go with b450 Tomahawk or B450-a pro

Of course you can go with 1060. But 960/970 will also do the job and they are cheaper. But as I said earlier if you plan to upgrade in the near future (like a year) and have the budget go with something that you will out in that new machine ( you wouldn't want to put a 960/970/1060 in a new pc in a year but something more powerful).

I see 2 ways, first is update "keep it simple" , second "think about the future": 1. Buy a used gtx 960/970 and a used 500w PSU. 2. Buy a 2060 Super and 600w PSU (both new) - you will keep those and when the time comes put those in new pc.

Hi, You don't need x570 for Ryzen 3600. You can just buy a good B450 motherboard, examples from MSI (best boards for ryzen): B450-A Pro MAX B450 Tomahawk MAX B450 Bazooka MAX You can also buy a non-MAX but then you will need to update bios prior to CPU installment (boards have functionality of flashing BIOS without CPU).