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Everything posted by shark103

  1. This sound like a problem I saw on those game forums while searching for black screen - most cases got resolved by bordeless windowed mode PSU is ok. Every voltage is in range. Every temp is also ok so that nothing with thermals. Now to fully test RAM, on every step make sure that ram in in the correct slots (1 stick > DIMMA2, 2 sticks > DIMMA2+DIMMB2) 1. Switch stick in slots > memtest > game some 2. take one out > memtest > game some 3. replace with the second one (still on in mobo) > memtest > game some If 1 no error, no crash - test some more and be hopefull Any errors stop testing Crashes test next step Extra thing - do you have a lot of usb devices connected to your system like controlers etc ? Sometimes this kind on "events" can be usb related, if possible also worth a try to use different keyboard,mouse for testing as we are stepping closer and closer to - ffs i don't have any more ideas whats wrong.
  2. Log few hours or at least through 2-3 crashes if they happen and we'll see what's what
  3. One last thing to rule out the PSU cause it is not going away from my mind and that to chech 12V rail. Download OpenHardwareMonitor - enable logging data under options - maybe for your mobo it will show 12v on my system it doesnt so i'm searching for different software. You could use HWmonitor but that doesn't have logging option so it system crashes then we have nothing 2 tests: - OCCT with power test - launch few games EDIT: Download HWInfo, even a portable one, launch sensors in it. Start logging > test , game etc and we'll see everything possible that happens
  4. Did it go into windowed mode ? I found a topic on game forum that it sometimes doesn't work and stays on fullscreen - to fix that you have to delete config.blk file
  5. Maybe, i don't play War Thunder.
  6. Try borderless window mode - quick google for black screen and apex legends/war thunder and a lot of people have this problem and window mode solves it.
  7. And do you play only those 2 /only on those 2 it happens ?
  8. Attach details of those 3 errors above/below kernel-power. Does this happen only in games or all fullscreen games/apps ? Your RAM is one 16GB or two 8GB sticks ?
  9. Both for and hour and the same time and no crash with "100%" system load ? Then I would say that it's not PSU fault as it proved to supply enough juice and is stable. 1 of 2 8pins for CPU could be problematic but if it works under hour long 100% stress test then that doesn't seem like it. CPU fine, GPU fine, PSU fine, RAM fine, mobo fine, SSD ? did you test the drive ? Have you tried disabling windows fast startup ? As windows 10 updates sometimes cause troubles - did the same thing happen with the system when it was relatively fresh (without all the possible windows updates) or is this a scenario not tested ?
  10. As I wrote already "For example kombustor and p95" those programs are synthetic load, artificial, programs that are created to create max load and that's all. If you launch only kombustor and GPU will be under full load and nothing crashes after 15-20minutes then GPU is in fine. If you launch only prime95 and hit it with default stress test after 30min-1h nothing crashes then cpu is fine. While testing keep an eye from time to time at temps, hardware has failsafes against thermal damage - like underclocking itself - but still it's not an excuse to just leave it be unsupervised. If you launch both of them at the same time and after a short time or immediately system crashes then that is PSU fault. PSU in rated Bronze and is Tier B which is good but not ideal for kind of components that you have. PSU might simply be running out of breath while a power peak happens while gaming
  11. 231th place with almost 24/7 14days without using cloud on anything like that - quite nice in my humble opinion almost as i had to clean it once and one stop for update of cooling with 3 noctuas
  12. May be a case that on main one it's inactive. Worth a try creating install media on another machine, full clean boot drive (zero it from bootable tool) before install.
  13. So you spent quite a lot of money 3800x, 570 board,2080 and got a cheap and nasty PSU - did someone advise you on that ? Every PSU in reality has a Tier there is a list here on the forum also. They don't mean that PC with low tier will not work at all, it means that it could be not suitable for a PC that is on some level by components. It's based on quality of internal components of PSU, how it behaves under load etc. Your is "Tier D - Potentially dangerous, but only in specific situations" for your component most people wouldn't even think about that PSU. With 99% certainty I would say that PSU while under heavy load (or load that has high peaks) it not supplying enough juice and system crashes. PS. Smart Pro RGB would also be good for your build.
  14. Did he use the same pc to create installation usb drive ? Maybe that's where the problem is.
  15. Re-seat every component - just take it apart and put it back slowly, sometimes even the most experienced pc builders make small mistakes like not pushing ram in all the way. Make sure that RAM in in the correct slots - take a look at mobo manual. Start with 1 stick of RAM - nothing replace for the other one. Also start with no SSD installed - you can get into bios without a drive. So steps are : 1. disassemble everything 2. assemble basic config - cpu, gpu, 1 ram module, remember to plug all psu connectors (main mobo, cpu power, gpu power - try that 3 if 2 didnt work replace ram with the other one, if worked add 2 module 4. if 3 worked either way and you got into bios add nvme drive, if didn't work write back and we'll think some more
  16. Quick answer - sorry but no. Bios update equals clearing saved presets in most cases.
  17. Hit it with synthetic load to see if PSU is not the problem as you used a B tier psu for a mid/high end system. For example kombustor and p95
  18. Did it work without a problem before "re-paste accident" under similar conditions ? Any occasional crashes, freezes etc ? That PSU you got is which one: - Smart M - Smart BX1 /BX1 RGB - Smart Pro RGB - Smart DPS G There are quite few thermaltakes with "smart" in name but none that is called "smartpower" This is important as each of them is from different tier and only the last one (Smart DPS G) is suitable in 100% for 2080 and 3800x.
  19. Try reinstalling newest bios but via bios - Asus EZ Flash Download bios from asus site, put it on a usb stick, launch bios , launch EZ Flash, install. If that won't solve the issue you could also downgrade bios to older working version
  20. You've got one stick so there is only one slot in the mobo where that RAM should go. RAM timings are correct in BIOS ? Sometimes on some mobos "auto" picks wrong values. Use Ryzen DRAM Calculator to get "SAFE" values and make sure that those are set in BIOS.
  21. You wrote that this happens while gaming so GPU under load and tested CPU temps. Test it with high synthetic GPU load. Maybe you didn't clean everything from the socket and there is a problem with CPU <> GPU communication when GPU is under load and that results in crashes.
  22. Point 3 I meant this Maybe slot for that is tight and this part got stuck there or it has some kind of extra latch. Edit: Found official Dell page with instruction for removal. There is only latch and blue lever https://www.dell.com/support/article/pl-pl/sln298073/optiplex-9010-desk-top-teardown-removal-guide-for-customer-replaceable-units-crus?lang=en If you are sure that that blue lever is not holding it try rocking it front to back gently in the port and sideways (but very gently in this direction) - just to be 100% clear this time front is bracket , back is end of card above blue lever. If nothing still works then the best option would be to take out the whole motherboard - it will be possible if card is stuck in the port, won't be if this is a case with bracket stuck. It will allow you to better see what is wrong with pci port and you have a wider field of operation .
  23. There are 4 points that could get stuck. 1. Silver latch with blue sticker is the gpu bracket moving / can you giggle it ? 2. Blue tab - not as C2dan88 said the opposite way. Look at the bottom one, the notch is on PSU side. This needs to be pushed towards CPU, if you push it towards PSU you kinda make sure that you won't be able to take it out. 3. Other side of gpu bracket could get stuck a bit - rotate whole pc to see the back of mobo tray and there should be a series of small slots that card brackets go into 4. pci slot pins are seized with card due to gunk/rust/oxidation -very unlikely seen a case like that only once in my life,
  24. Hey, No signal on monitor or "connected" but no picture (black screen) ? Things to check: 0. Monitor settings - is input not locked to hdmi instead of auto ? Even if auto then change to DP and test 1. Nvidia Control Panel 2. Different DP port on 1070 3. This monitor on another pc / different dp monitor on this pc - if possible