Nagasaki

These are my ram timings at the moment, Dose anyone see anything thats drasticly wrong? As long as its "good enough".

Is it normal for the BCLK to jump about on B550? I have gone through 3 mobos over the years, X370, and two B550 boards and they all do it. Anything from 95MHZ to about 99.8Mhz. Never just sits at 100. I have tried setting it to 100 manualy in the BIOS but it still moves about. Mobo is an Asus Strix B550-F Gaming Wifi II if that helps. Thanks

So I watched a video from Buildzoid ages ago about ram timings for Ryzen and I just swaped my 5800X for an X3D IO thought id go and re-watch it and sort my ram timings out. In his video someone had thier tRFC at over 1000 and mine was also 1047 and he was saying that this was bad, a big no no dont do that. So, I managed to get mine down to 650 so far. Sadly I have 2 kits of ram, Both are the same model from Corsair but the actaul chips are not the same. One kit is SK Hynix and the other is Micron so it's making getting beter sub timings tricky as 1 kit is better at some timings and the other kit is better at others, Anway.. What I wanted to know is what is bad about having tRFC so high exactly? I have not noticed anything performance wise to be better so far.

Its not just the preview thats blank, people watching cant see shit. But I have found it may be Discord. If I join a different server it will stream. If I then go back to the server I was on it will now stream fine. wtf

I could really use some help with this rather odd and totaly bizzare issue I am having. I was playing OW2 the other day and streaming on discord as I have done many, many times. Then all of a sudden the stream went black. When first loading up OW2 the stream works fine but as the game goes into the loading screen and just before going to hero selection the screen goes black. It is the same in Xsplit also. And this is where it just gets fucking weird. (EDIT I just tested OBS... and it WORKS??? wtf) If a friend logs into my account on his PC and tries to stream it works fine. I made a brand new account and that also works fine on my PC. It's just my main account, on my PC that has issue. I have tried resetting all user setttings in OW2, I have reinstalled the game. I have reinstalled Windows. I have made sure all drivers are up to date. I am currently on a fresh install of W11 and I dont have any overlays like MSI AB installed yet. I tried things like running discord or the game as admin and disabling fullscreen optomizations. I am stumped and have no idea what the frick is going on. I tried to contact Blizzard support and all they had to say was talk to discord, bye. and closed the ticket.

Since changing from an MSI MAG B550 Motar Wifi to an Asus ROG Strix B550-F Wifi II I have been unable to get the idle voltage on my PBO overclock down. At idle it sits as high as 1.45v but under load drops to 1.23 to 1.28v as I have set in the UEFI. My MSI mobo had an "AMD Overclocking" voltage option that allowed me to set an offset to the idle voltage. The Asus does not seem to have this option. If I set the CPU voltage manually then PBO disables and I am stuck at 3.3Ghz Is there a setting I am missing or something I have done wrong? Id like to get the idle voltage down if I can. My 5800X Sits at 45c idle. I can set a manual OC of 4.5Ghz all core at 1.28v and have idle temps in the low 30's but with PBO set the way I have it I can get a 4.5Ghz all core with up to 5.1Ghz single core so Id like to keep PBO enabled.

They have finally got back to me and has classed it as socket damage... I think it's a little silly. I'll add some images when I get the board back and you can see what they are crying about. It's quite literally nothing.

I had another post here about the audio on my MSI B550 Mortar not working. I sent it in for RMA and it has been rejected. They found a small amount of thermal past on the socket. I knew of this and its more of a stain as I cleaned it up ages ago. Never caused an issue. The pins in that aera of the socket are for Memory channel B and since my memory was working fine its clear that the paste never actually caused an issue. It never got into the socket just a tiny bit landed on the socket a while back when I was giving the PC a deep clean. What's your thoughts on this? Rejecting an RMA for an issue with Audio due to TIM on the socket. I wish I had a photo to show how insignificant the stain left is! I have argued my point, Just waiting on a reply. Anyone here had to RMA via eBuyer UK?

Sods law, I post about it.... I fix it. I found the issue. Audio still broken tho Anyway.. It was a combo of my USB3 PCIE card and my Strafe MK.2 When the keyboard is plugged into the USB card the fans spin up, when I unplug it they stop and the cooler rgb goes off... Plugged into the motherboard USB its fine! What the frack I was hoping my mobo audio would burst to life but no such luck

Ill link to this thread as the issues must be related. I have been having another issue that cropped up at the same time as the audio issue. When the PC is off the rgb on my cooler and the fans attached to it as well as any fans connected to my case fan controller (all sata powered) still spin. I just found out that If I unplug the 24Pin power connector from the motherboard the cooler and all the fans turn off. Soooo I assume the motherboard is causing the PSU to send some voltage, I guess 5v. But the question is why? All this started when I added 3 extra RGB LL120 fans to my system with a 2nd lighting node pro and rgb fan hub but even removing them from the system does not undo this strangeness. I think somehow my motherboard has just shat the bed in some way and needs replacing but id rather not fork out for one right now.

Forgot to add that when I stripped down the PC I still had the same issue with only ram, ssd and gpu connected.

Yeah no. I'm not that stupid. My USB headset works fine, a USB sound card I have also works fine. Its not that Window is set to the wrong device... the device isnt bloody working.

But I have a feeling I did something but god knows what. I just got some more LL120 RGB Fans to make PC go brrrrr I already had 6. Anyway. So I add the 3 extra fans to my case. Power was disconnected. I also added a USB 3.0 PCIE card. All seemed to go fine but upon booting into Windows I found my sound was not working. Windows still detects the RealTek audio but no sound out of any output. The windows app from realtek does not detect anything being connected to any input or output. I use the Optical output for my speakers and there is usually a red light behind the flap of the optical audio out connecter but now there is nothing. I have tried new drivers, old drivers, Using DDU, Even booted into Ubuntu and there was no sound there either. I also reflashed my BIOS from the latest beta back to an older version and still no change. Also tried a CMOS Reset. I stripped my PC down and took out the mobo and checked it for damage incase i did something when installing the USB card. But I can not see any damage at all in or around the audio section of the mobo. If anyone has some other thing I can try or look at id appreciate it. Or I am going to have to get a new motherboard. The mobo is an MSI MAG B550 Motar WiFi. I do not have any free slots to just put in a sound card. And since the space between my GPU and the last PCIE slot is VERY small Id rather not choke my GPU by putting a sound card there.

Another person who cant read. I had to pay for the HEVC codec from the MS store. Now HDR content shows in netflix.

Well sorry for not including it. I thought it was a given and I did not need to include everything thats not connected. Next time I will say it like this: no cpu no ram no gpu no usb no sata no m.2 no hd audio cable no front panel Should I go on? He got it sorted by borrowing another USB stick and it work.

I think you need glasses. I said in my OP he tried with nothing installed.

I have suggested he take it to a local shop or see if Scan.co.uk where he got it can do it for him. I have been through a lot of posts on forums, reddit etc all full of people having issues with the bios flash back not working at all, suddenly working with hours of trying or working just fine. I have not been able to identify a specific "thing" from all these posts that could be causing an issue. Id like him to try formatting the USB stick with rufus but the dumb ass only has a Chromebook lol. And he sold his old PC already. Sadly he is not local or I could go over and fiddle. He's not good with the hardware side of PC's anymore.

Yes he's using the right USB port

A mate of mine has just built a new PC with a R9 5900X and a MSI X570 Tomahawk WiFi and of course the mobo does not support that CPU out the box. He has put the bios onto a USB stick formatted to FAT32 and put the bios file named as MSI.ROM on the stick. When pressing the bios flashback button the white led next to the button flashes 3 times and then stops and the led on the usb stick also goes out. He has tried and tried and tired but it will not work. He has only got 2 usb sticks and tried them both with no luck. Tried with the CPU/RAM installed and removed. Any ideas as to why this is not working? The whole point of the bios flashback is for situations like this but what bloody use is it if it wont work

I got it working. I had to pay for the HEVC codec from the MS store. Now HDR content shows in netflix. I get some 1440p stuff to.

Well, NV CP shows that HDCP is enabled

I have tried the app and edge, my monitor is brand new release back in June ish so it better support HDCP 2.2, and a quick google confirms it. HDR Content is not dependant on having a 4k screen. My old Huawei mate 10 pro was a 1080p screen but supported HDR content on Netflix and YT.

Netflix HDR, a mess I know but Id like to get it working. Specs: Samsung G7 1440p 32" HDR600 monitor Ryzen 5 5600x RTX 3070 I have tried with a DP connection and HDMI. I have the Ultra HD plan from Netflix. YT HDR videos work fine and so do my own videos on my PC that are in HDR. I have tried the Netflix app and in Edge but to no avail. Will they only show HDR on a 4k screen or something daft?

Oh god... guess Ill get rid then and get a different drive.

Drive #1 - ST4000DM004-2CV104 (3726 GB) I cant see anything that says either way