airdeano

Yeah, can't do anything for you. Hacking/Cracking or bypassing deliberately implemented security measures is against the forum's Community Guidelines.

As much as it sucks, we dont help with bypassing filters and security setup by the network owners. 

welcome to the Linus Tech Tips forums!

seemingly, many have strayed off the topic of the thread to only make it a flamewar of hate.. got nothing to contribute to the topic don't post ideology. 

seemingly, many have strayed off the topic of the thread to only make it a flamewar of hate.. got nothing to contribute to the topic don't post ideology. 

welcome to the Linus Tech Tips forums!

I've had to replace my anet a8 after two years of usage, just couldn't figure out what was wrong bought a new e3d v6 for it too, I think my bed just warped and my mechanics were fucked after two years of usage. I've recently bought the ender 3 and it's a solid machine. just make sure you mess with the eccentric nuts otherwise the bed will have a lot of play. 

yeah, we cannot really help you in circumventing someone else's rules.. seems you have done this before.. so..

yeah, we cannot really help you in circumventing someone else's rules.. seems you have done this before.. so..

yeah, we cannot really help you in circumventing someone else's rules.. seems you have done this before.. so..

yeah, we cannot really help you in circumventing someone else's rules.. seems you have done this before.. so..

they were removed from the thread as they do not advance or lend anything to the thread topic of building a PC let alone for Linus.
as prescribed earlier, here is our Community Standards, prolly best to review them, understand them and post accordingly.

Dang I was hoping because it wasn't filliment based but UV resin the layering wouldn't be an issue because it was only the tubes I was printing I've bought the fittings so I wasn't going to need to print those but the same issues would probably carry over to anything really the tolerances were so minute but I guess it makes sense here's hoping it eventually does become possible soon it would be pretty sick.

welcome to the Linus Tech Tips forums!
 
you've pretty much nailed the reasons prolly why not.
that and tolerances have to be need to be dead-nuts accurate.
ive tried FDM printing fittings and due to the layering, the tolerances are not clear-cut, mico layers of mico leaks.
the technologies are not there yet for closed system environments like water cooling. but possibly soon.
 

you actually asked for no scam/legit but not willing to pay the price..
then you get to gamble on the scamminess with the amount you are willing to pay. simple.
otherwise any issues that arise cannot be completely solved due to the legitimacy of the license.

yeah, personal attacks will not be acceptable here. wanna stay, knock it off.. wanna leave, we can help with that, too..
thread cleaned.

yeah, personal attacks will not be acceptable here. wanna stay, knock it off.. wanna leave, we can help with that, too..
thread cleaned.

mmm this isnt a flamewar of automobile manufacturers, but what is the relationship to walmart and tesla.. stay on topic.

glad to see you'll try again. 
 
dont know how the glass will react with the stock magnetic sheet installed. prolly have to remove that mag sheet for best use.
the extruder upgrade is a good buy.
 
lemme know if you need s'more advise.

just from your pix, you have the bed too far from the nozzle. first layer line will not be round, it'll actually be semi round on top and flat on bottom.
the next layers will be a fuller roundiness.
preheat the bed to 50°-60° and nozzle to 210° (preheat PLA in menu)
auto home axis'
disable steppers
manually move printhead to lower left bed attachment bolt (not disturbing the z (up/down) motion), using a piece of printer paper, slide the paper back-n-forth under the nozzle. rotate bed knob clockwise (as viewed from above) until you feel the paper dragging on the bed/nozzle. next move the printhead to lower right bolt anchor and repeat. move print head to rear right and left performing this task. then do the whole bed again, the none last time till you easily slide the paper between the bed and nozzle with some resistance.
 
now you are ready to final adjust your first layer. best gcode for this is the thingy: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987803 or create your own in cura.

while printing at the corners, adjust the bed knobs up or down depending on if:
the pattern is loose, move bed up/clockwise
the pattern is smashed and thin, move bed down/counter-clockwise.
 
best starting at 20-40mm/sec to watch what the individual lines are doing.
if you don't have to chisel your prints from the bed, you shouldn't have to re-examine your bed level.
 
stringing is:
weak/old filament
exceptionally hot nozzle temp
not enough retraction (slicer fix) 3-4mm @40mm/sec max (PLA) 1.5-2 @35mm/sec (PETG)
wall order/wall construction (slicer fix)
possibly move to cura 4.0 with less bugs and more adequate in prints (i have 4.0.0)
buying a more expensive printer won't yield any better experience. only until you get into prusa mk3 monies or lultzbot you'll still have similar beginning experiences, just less setup stumbles.

ok..

 
kinda thin 3/4 walls thick in the wall area, but for a flex chain prolly ok.. 

sorry, we are a discussion forum, simply posting a video with really no community needs (why is this here?) just counts as SPAM. please do not SPAM our forums.
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yeah, this is a parent thing, not a public forum issue.
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please reserve this type of material to your status update located in your profile.
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@Adsome2007 we know that PC purchasing can be expensive, but eating up forum resources on a changing budget build will/can confuse you and the forum. stick to a budget and no more confusion. multiple threads from the same member wards off possible suggestions/solutions. your recent  threads have been merged here.