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airdeano

Retired Staff
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Everything posted by airdeano

  1. sorry, we cannot offer and solutions/suggestions on illegally obtained software. <-LOCKED->
  2. mmm this isnt a flamewar of automobile manufacturers, but what is the relationship to walmart and tesla.. stay on topic.
  3. please reserve this type of material to your status update in your profile. <-LOCKED->
  4. sorry, we cannot lend support for such tasks.. it is all on your own research .. <-LOCKED->
  5. please in the future. avoid x vs. y threads.. just ask if x is good enough for your usage (list needs/wants). we do not allow flamewar threads. <-LOCKED->
  6. glad to see you'll try again. dont know how the glass will react with the stock magnetic sheet installed. prolly have to remove that mag sheet for best use. the extruder upgrade is a good buy. lemme know if you need s'more advise.
  7. just from your pix, you have the bed too far from the nozzle. first layer line will not be round, it'll actually be semi round on top and flat on bottom. the next layers will be a fuller roundiness. preheat the bed to 50°-60° and nozzle to 210° (preheat PLA in menu) auto home axis' disable steppers manually move printhead to lower left bed attachment bolt (not disturbing the z (up/down) motion), using a piece of printer paper, slide the paper back-n-forth under the nozzle. rotate bed knob clockwise (as viewed from above) until you feel the paper dragging on the bed/nozzle. next move the printhead to lower right bolt anchor and repeat. move print head to rear right and left performing this task. then do the whole bed again, the none last time till you easily slide the paper between the bed and nozzle with some resistance. now you are ready to final adjust your first layer. best gcode for this is the thingy: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987803 or create your own in cura. while printing at the corners, adjust the bed knobs up or down depending on if: the pattern is loose, move bed up/clockwise the pattern is smashed and thin, move bed down/counter-clockwise. best starting at 20-40mm/sec to watch what the individual lines are doing. if you don't have to chisel your prints from the bed, you shouldn't have to re-examine your bed level. stringing is: weak/old filament exceptionally hot nozzle temp not enough retraction (slicer fix) 3-4mm @40mm/sec max (PLA) 1.5-2 @35mm/sec (PETG) wall order/wall construction (slicer fix) possibly move to cura 4.0 with less bugs and more adequate in prints (i have 4.0.0) buying a more expensive printer won't yield any better experience. only until you get into prusa mk3 monies or lultzbot you'll still have similar beginning experiences, just less setup stumbles.
  8. ok.. kinda thin 3/4 walls thick in the wall area, but for a flex chain prolly ok..
  9. shouldn't have any cleanup.. as soon as i opened this thread, is d/l the stl, sliced it and printed it:
  10. it looks like you have the nozzle too high and/or the temperature of the material is too cold. PLA for my E3 (no to diff) than the one i already posted for you, did you use it?): Ender3_PLA_20.curaprofile what STL are you printing? ill print it on my ender3 to compare..
  11. look, jamming up someones thread with this credulous back-n-forth with no real outcome is non-productive. please be respectful of the community's needs in support and suggestions. if you cannot abide, then do not lend that sage advice. <-UNLOCKED->
  12. sorry, we are a discussion forum, simply posting a video with really no community needs (why is this here?) just counts as SPAM. please do not SPAM our forums. <-LOCKED->
  13. ^^ this is what GN uses for showing temps in the socket.
  14. when the printer is printing, if you'll rotate the knob on the screen, the feed/speed rate will increase clockwise, decrease counter-clockwise. the first layer should be 20-25mm/sec, after that if all is tight, 50-60mm/sec after initial layer is down. plus the bed can be drawn down on temp to 40°ish. if the layers are grainy, your printing too fast for the extruder. each layer should bond to the layer below.
  15. if printing .2 layers try this profile: Magic0.20.curaprofile this is the CHEP profile he uses in his vids. when you 'level' the bed, make sure the bed is at temp and hot end is at temp. using a piece of paper to slide between the nozzle and glass.there should be some drag, but no real resistance.
  16. material? speed? temps? cura version?
  17. if you could reserve this type of material to your profile status. <-LOCKED->
  18. so you have a 3d printer now, what are you going to do with it? trinkets and gadgets? with learning the ender 3 is prolly the best value to start, upgrade, and learn the basics and advances of 3d printing. cosplay gear? if this, prolly too small for larger prints, the cr10 (300x 300x 400) or larger is what most jump into. i bought an ender to hopefully print a prusa mk3, but why?? other than an learning curve i have the same output in printing with small amount of cash outlay. now i own 2 cr10 minis and one ender 3. prolly convert one to corexy to find what all the hoopla is about.
  19. airdeano

    Bro

    yeah, this is a parent thing, not a public forum issue. <-LOCKED->
  20. yeah.. this prove me stuff to wreck someones thread isn't what our community is about.. thread cleaned.. anymore and we'll fix some accounts for it.. capiche?
  21. ender pro is a waste of cash outlay. the newer enders ship with upgraded springs/knobs and flex print surface. yes, PETG needs bed heat for adhesion. if not the print will curl. i dont use the flex surface, i use a glass plate and hair spray, never an issue unless the bed is not trammed correctly. PETG needs a looser tolerance than PLA on layers. the only time i need to 'relevel' the bed is if i have to wrestle the print off the surface or change from PETG to PLA or vice-versa.
  22. please reserve this type of material to your status update located in your profile. <-LOCKED->
  23. SPAMming our forums with giveaways isn't a great start with 'free stuff'. our community is a giving community and announcements will be made. <-LOCKED->
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