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Zonda716

Member
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires, Argentina

System

  • CPU
    i5 4670k
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z87-A
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600MHz 2x4GB
  • GPU
    Sapphire HD7870 OC 2GB GHz Edition
  • Case
    Antec Nine Hundred v2
  • Storage
    Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB 7200rpm
  • PSU
    Seasonic S12II - 520w
  • Display(s)
    Sony KDL-32W655
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G15 v2
  • Mouse
    DragonWar "Thor"
  • Sound
    Sound Blaster Recon3D + Sony HT-SS380 5.1
  • Operating System
    Windows 8.1

Zonda716's Achievements

  1. So, I've got news: I found out there might be some issue related to internet / my WiFi card (a TP-Link WDN4800). I've reinstalled windows, and the PC works as long as I don't connect it to a WiFi network. When I do it the PC restars inmediately. Weird
  2. Hello LTT community: I've been experiencing random shutdowns of my PC. It's an i5 6600K (with a CM V8 GTS cooler) , 16GB Corsair Vengeance LED, a MSI GeForce GTX 1080, and two hard drives (a Samsung 850 Evo SSD and a WD Caviar Black) on an Asus Z170 Sabertooth Mark 1 which gets power from a Seasonic M12II 750w PSU. The thing is that I built this PC back in October 2016 and I did not have any problem at all with it. I game on it (Doom, Forza Horizon 3, Planet Coaster, etc) and so far everything was perfect until I installed the Windows 10 Creators Update. When I did so I started experiencing these random shutdowns. It would randomly restart, sometimes when I get into the logon screen, sometimes when I got into the desktop, sometimes after a couple of minutes... I got to run a "sfc /scannow " from recovery command line and it found no problems. I finally ended up rolling back to the previous version of Windows 10 and now its more stable, but It keeps shutting down and restarting randomly rarely and It's so annoying. I've changed three things on my PC recently: 1) The one that made it more evident: The Creator's Update 2) I have a Logitech G19 keyboard. I put a script on it to make it change colors automatically. (No way this could be causing my entire pc to shutdown but... one does not know) 3) I recently changed my monitor to a LG 24MP88HV-S. I don't want to think that my PSU is faulty. I do have my PC connected to a power strip where I do have all the other accesories connected (Monitor, Speakers, Keyboard) Maybe I should try replacing the power cable or even the power strip.
  3. It was a little less than $700 on Fry's Electronics in Los Angeles.
  4. Yeah, I'm looking reviews of it. Looks quite good!
  5. ? I dont understand what you mean. I'll use UPS, DHL or FedEx.
  6. Amazon says: This item does not ship to Capital Federal, Argentina. Please check other sellers who may ship But it's available on a store I'm looking (www.bhphotovideo.com) it goes a little over the budget but I can keep it as an option. I don't like football btw... hahah
  7. Hello LTT people! I'm looking to buy a new monitor for my pc but I'm not sure what to buy. First of all I've to tell that I'm from Argentina. Here an 27 inch gaming monitor (for example the Asus PG279Q) go up to U$S 2000 new, which is an insane amount of money for my budget so I'm looking to import one from outside my country. (Only option I have here that's "cheap" is the Samsung 28E590D for U$S 800) Also I have to tell that my last monitor was a LG E2290V (1080p / 60HZ / TN) that had nothing special apart for being super thin (and had very wrong placed input ports) but I loved the picture quality it has, colors really did pop up on it (Sold it to a friend of mine back in 2013 or 2014, and he still has it, and i'm still impressed with the colors the display has) and it was a pretty monitor (I care a little about the looks). Since then I used TVs as monitors: Sony 32W655 (from 2014 to 2015), Samsung UN3H5000 (from mid-2015 to late-2015) then a Samsung UN48JU6500 (4K with a HD7870 , just kidding, 1080p), and finally an old 40 inch Sony (KLV-40S300A) which I changed to my parents for the 48 4K Samsung (long story...) and I sold it today. So, I'm now back in an actual "monitor" a Samsung P2470HN, but I got it borrowed from my dad and I should give it back to him and I should find something for myself. In the beggining of this year I sold also my old PC and built a new one: Asus Z170 Sabertooth Mark I / I5 6600k / 16GB RAM DDR4 / MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X (yeah, I've been using a GTX1080 to game on a 40 inch Sony 1366 x 768 TV what a sin) so I'm now looking for a monitor that matches the capabilites of my PC and my needs) Games I do play are: Racing games (like Forza Horizon 3, Dirt, The Crew, etc), FPS games (Doom, Portal 2, Overwatch, etc), Adventure Games (Tomb Raider, etc), Sandbox games (GTA V, Just Cause 3, etc). Some points you have to know: Budget - Around U$S 800 including shipping to my country (that's a $400 32 inch monitor (size and weight makes a $400 shipping) or a $500 27 inch (shipping is around $300 for 27 inch monitors)) Display size - I think I'm going to need a 27 inch or bigger one because I use it at a distance of 1 meter when I'm sitting on my desk. but I also use it from my bed (2.5 m away approximately) (and the fact that I'm used to game on a 40 inch TV. 24 inch looks sooo small ). Resolution - I think 4K is overkill. I want to enjoy my games at maximum settings with 60FPS or more (specially if I buy something with high refresh rate) . I'm used to play at 1366x768 or 1920x1080 @ 60Hz. I know higher PPI is better, but it is justified? Refresh Rate - I don't know if buy a higher refresh rate 1080p monitor or stick to 60HZ. I've never had a 120hz monitor in front of me and I don't have a friend with one to compare. I keep reading is a one way path, but I'm not sure. Pivoting - It's not something really necessary. But since I do play with Visual Pinball, I would love to have the ability to put my monitor in portrait mode for Full Screen cabinet mode. and not so importatn ones: Aspect ratio: I think i'll stay wih 16:9. I was in love with the BenQ XR3501 21:9 / 2000R curve and even went to Los Angeles with the idea of bringing one with me. But then I saw the Samsung S34E790C and I didn't like how "thin" (vertically) it was and wide. Looked weird to me. Looks: I like to have a monitor that stands out, that it's appealing but It's not really something important I saw in person the Samsung S32D850T, and I really liked the colors on it, it really looked awesome. BenQ BL3200PT is also another monitor I've been looking. 32 inch, AMVA, 1440P, and pivots for less than U$S400. Seems like the best option but there are probably better monitors for that money. I hear what you say. Thanks, Facundo
  8. Remember that the u$s 2000 are for the CPU, Motherboard, Memory, GPU and Storage. Case and PSU come later.
  9. I've heard a lot of problems about SLI, but I didn't came to a conclusion. Might be an option
  10. Hello people of LTT forums! I'm in the journey of building a new PC for myself and I would like to have some advice on what to get. My "old" build was: Asus Z87-A - I5 4670K - Corsair Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3 1600MHz - Sapphire Radeon HD7870 (factory OCed) - WD Caviar Black 500GB - Seasonic S12II 520W - Antec Nine Hundred Two V3. It lasted 3 years. My objective is to build a future-proof gaming PC to be able to use (maxing out games) in the next 3 years (as my previous build did). Since I have a 48 inch Samsung 4K TV (Model: UN48JU6500) as my main monitor, I would love to play at a decent framerate in 4K, but it's not a key factor, since I'm also thinking of replacing it with a more adequate 34 or 35 inch ultrawide monitor. Maybe next year. I'm from Argentina, and i'll be travelling to the US (Los Angeles and Las Vegas, any infromation on where to buy the parts will be appreciated) in August. Since hardware costs a lot here. I'm thinking in bringing the CPU, Motherboard, GPU, Memory and maybe a SSD. Max. budget is $2000 (US Dollars, If it could be less to achieve what I want, better.) for those, and expecting to spend around $8000-9000 (that's in Argentinean pesos, around u$s 600) I'm buying the PSU and Case here in my country. The setup I thinked of is a Broadwell-E processor (i7 6800k), on a X99 Motherboard (would really love to have integrated WiFi), Corsair Dominator Platinum 4x8GB DDR4 3000 MHz (I know 32gb is maybe overkill for gaming, but there was an offer in Newegg when buying an X99 mobo) and a GeForce GTX 1080 (not Founders Edition, probably an Asus, MSI, EVGA or Gigabyte one). I've read that Skylake processors (i7 6700k) performs better in gaming than a 6800k. I've considered it (6700k + Z170 mobo) an also thought of the 5820K. Even thought of a 4790k with the best Z97 mobo! GPU in mind have been always the GTX 1080. I want the best, althought i've considered the GTX 980Ti since it's a lot cheaper now and the new 8GB RX480. Memory-wise, I think anything of the high range from Corsair will do fine, I was pretty happy with the performance of my Vengeance's. SSD: Samsung 850 or maybe an Intel one. 960GB would be spectacular, but I think 480GB would be the one. I still have my 500GB WD Caviar Black, maybe I could use both. PSU: I've thought of a Seasonic X-Series (750W would be ideal, but I could only find 850w ones here, so 850 it is). I want a modular unit. Case: I need something with proper air ventilation. I really like Corsair's Graphite 780T and 760T. I want something with the build quality that my Antec had. I've also seen the Cooler Master Storm Trooper, MasterCase Pro 5, Thermaltake Chaser MK-I or NZXT Noctis 450. Any suggestion will be appreciated!! Thanks!
  11. I'm an idiot: I was trying to put a 1150 processor on a 1151 motherboard... That's why the Q-Code 00. Got the 4790K refunded and bought a 6700. Lets hope everything goes OK.
  12. I've tried all of that, excep keeping the GPU and 1 stick of RAM. Will try that, althought I think it would make no difference.
  13. Hello LinusTechTips forums' people. I've been building a new PC for a buddy consisting of the next parts: - Asus ROG Maximus VIII Ranger (Z170) mobo (new) - Intel i7 4790k (new) - 4x8GB Corsair Dominator LPX 3200mhz (new) - EVGA GeForce 980 SC (He bought it new, and has been using it, works OK) - 1 x WD Blue 500gb + 1 x WD Green 1TB (Those were his, were working OK) - "Powercooler 1000w" PSU (the quotes are because he told me it was a 1000w psu, but it didnt had any sticker that says so. I could only tell it is reallly heavy, I don't know if that has something to do) - Thermaltake Chaser A71 The thing is that I've got everything in place. I turn on the PC and the CPU cooler starts to spin, but not the chassis's coolers (which are connected to the motherboard), and the motherboard's Q-Code stays at "00", no picture coming out of the monitor, no beeping from the motherboard's speaker, nothing. Manual says code 00 is not used, so I went to the internet to find out how to solve it. What some say is that the 00 code means a CPU failure. I've also read it could be the EATX12V not connected properly, or the PSU not giving enought power . I've checked every cable, everything is properly connected. Tried keeping only the CPU connected to the motherboard, but when I do so it wont even keep turned on, when I press the power button on the motherboard the Q-Code display turns on and off inmediately (flashes one time) and if I press it again nothing happens. Only disconnecting the power outlet and connecting it again or pressing the Clear_CMOS button is the only way to make the display "flash" again. Weird thing is that if I connect everything back, the PC will turn on, but again, with no picture and the q-code in "00" The only solutions that came to my head is to try the CPU in another motherboard (I have an Asus Z87-A on my current PC) and if the processor responds, try my PSU (Seasonic S12II 520W) to see if I could make the motherboard pass that "00" state. I would appreciate any contribution to my case, if this even happened to someone else. Thanks! Facundo
  14. I'm open to anything better or more price-conscious, but it has to be from the options I have available here. I just can't buy a machine outside. Here we have something called "cepo al dolar", we can't just go over the internet, say: I want this laptop (for example the Eurocom ones (I could buy one 100% better than the Asus for the price of it)) and expect to get it home withouth any problem. First of all, I don't have the credit card limit to buy it, that's why I'm going to pay it by cash, and If i had it, as I said, it would be a total headache the entire process of bringing it here, not to mention the 50% more I'll have to pay it because of taxes of buying something over u$s 300. Thats why I need to stick to the options that are available for buying now here with actual stock. I just wanted to know which was the best option for what I want to do with the laptop.
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