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Mortis Angelus

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Sweden

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7-8700K (currently at stock settings)
  • Motherboard
    Asus Prime Z370-A
  • RAM
    Kingston Fury 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3200MHz CL16 Beast
  • GPU
    Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080Ti Xtreme Edition 11GB (currently running factory OC)
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R6 Tempered Glass
  • Storage
    SSD 1: Crucial P3 1TB M.2 PCIe Gen 3 NVMe SSD

    SSD 2: Samsung 850 EVO 1TB

    SSD 3: Crucial MX500 500 GB

    HDD: Seagate Barracuda ST4000DM005 64MB 4TB 7200 rpm
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750x v2 750W
  • Display(s)
    Display 1: AOC Agon AG271QG

    Display 2: Dell U2711
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Nepton 240M AIO
  • Keyboard
    Cooler Master CM Storm Trigger Z (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Core
  • Sound
    Soundcard: Creative AE-5 Soundblaster

    Headphones: Sennheiser RS 165 Wireless

    Microphone 1: Audio Technica AT2020+ USB

    Microphone 2: Antlion Audiio ModMic Wireless
  • Operating System
    Windows 11 Home 64-bit
  • Phone
    Asus Zenfone 8

Recent Profile Visitors

2,222 profile views
  1. I did not know that. Thank you for the tip! And thanks for your input. I am running an old B350 board, but I presume it will have that option too with a BIOS update. Do you have any suggestion for a good AM4 upgrade? I currently have the 1500x, thinking of going up to the 4500x instead, and also upgrading from the msi 1050ti low profile to the RTX A2000 (essentially a 3050?) with blower style cooler for the same reason.
  2. Hello, I have a custom SFF-build where I currently run an Noctua NH-L9a. But the case is very small, with very limited intake and exhaust capabilities. So I've been looking for a new solution for this. Then I found this cooler from Akasa: https://www.akasa.co.uk/search.php?seed=AK-CC1109BP01 This would be very good for my build as it would exhaust the air out instead of into the case. Does anyone here have any experience with this cooler? Is it any good? Should I avoid it? Do you have any alternative suggestions? It says it should handle up to 75W of thermal output, so beefier than the Noctua with 65W. I plan on running an AM4 65W chip with it (annoyingly all 35W AM4 chips are all OEM-chips). Cheers and Happy New Year!
  3. I could leave them, but they are in the root directory of that drive, which makes it impossible to not see whenever I need to access it. And I cant find similar files anywhere else. And what's with the install-dates? As mentioned, I formatted these drives 3 weeks ago
  4. Hello! First of all, not sure I post this in the correct subforum, so please move it if necessary. I have 3 main drives in my system. My C-drive and two "games" drives where I have my steam, epic, EA-libraries etc. All of the sudden today, I found the Games 1-drive filled with a bunch of random files (see below). A quick googling SUGGESTS that these are created by mistake by Windows and should end up in temp folder or in appdata folder, not on a random drive, but can sometimes do so. So based on that, it sounds like it should be fine to delete. But then again, I don't trust suggestions from random forums. Thus I'm here to get a second, third and fourth opinion. I have just done a fresh-install of my system, so I would hate to screw something up by deleting these files. EDIT: Also rather interesting that the dates of "Date modified" doe snot correlate to any recent dates, except those of my Steam and dropbox folders (for obvious reasons). How is this possible? These are drives that were wiped clean 3 weeks ago. Thank you for your help!
  5. Hello I know nothing about budget projectors, and I am trying to find a budget option for my friends. Their new livingroom layout is really anti-tv screen; really no good place to mount or place a TV. They also dont want the typical "black square on a wall" look and feeling that a TV creates. They are not videophiles either. They just want something to plug their chromecast into and enjoy the occasional stuff. Plan is to use one of the available white walls and project a ca 40-50" image. Needs to be ceiling mounted. But I have a hard time finding any reviews or guides for budget options. The ones I find on youtube are either in the $100-$200 range wich is just crap, or it jumps up to $800+. And they are not very good videos. Big channels like LTT and similar all focus on the $1500+ projectors. So is there something that fulfills these requirements: - max 400 eur (second hand prices included; so an older model is welcome) - 1080p - ceiling mountable - bright enough for windowed room and being projected on a wall, not a proper projector canvas
  6. I want to chip in here, that despite me really disliking Apple - which is mostly for how they treat their customers, design their software and lock-you-in ecosystem - I really like their hardware. When it comes to pure hardware quality and finish, Apple are hard to beat. The annoying thing with apple devices is that any lacking features or compromises in then are intentionally left out to create a need for an extra gadget or dongle, which they then charge ridiculous amounts of money for. Latest macbook pro and it's onboard ssd is good example. There was no need to downgrade it from a space concern. It's just a way to sneakily increase their profit margin by adding a slightly cheaper ssd. And the same was true about the usb-c only designs. Now all of the sudden they can have sd card readers and hdmi ports. Other brands are far from perfect too, but usually are not as expensive and usually are easier to adjust and modify to your own liking. But eg Dell was (and to some extent still is) just copying whatever apple is doing, instead of trying to improve on what apple messes up. Perfect laptop for me would be an M2 device with the adjustability of linux and compatibility of windows and the hardware-software optimization of OSX
  7. According to this source (in Swedish, but you can translate it) a basic repair kit for opening the phone comes in the box with the phone. Furthermore, most people who are savvy/interested enough to repair their own phones usually tend to own an ifixit kit or something similar.
  8. Nokia launched its new G22, a phone with focus on being more eco-friendly and presumably easy to fix yourself, by making it easy to open up and access internal components. I dont know much more than that, but thought it would be a fun thing to mention here and hopefully Linus is gonna make a video about this phone too. If you know more, just post more info in the thread. https://www.nokia.com/phones/en_ie/nokia-g-22?sku=101S0609H002
  9. 1) In a perfect world they should; but the issue at hand was regardless about my private account - sure I should not have used a personal account from the beginning, but hey, that was 6 years ago now, and this is the first incident. And consider the efficiency of our IT-department, dealing with something like this would take weeks (yes, it is extremely under-staffed). 2) the main issue here is still, imho, that it is overly complicated to deal with an issue so mundane like this, no matter if it is a business or private account. The weird argument about "it's your fault for not buying into Apple's ecosystem" was really a low-mark of an argument. If I have any other account, I can go on any other device, log in, add my security details; hopefully with some 2-step authentication (which I have nowadays on all important accounts - even the apple account). The difference was that apple requires an apple-device for said 2-step authentication, opposed to every other system. 3) Might be worth it to note that I work in academia; so "company" is a university, and anyone who has worked at a university would know how bad anything computer tech and IT usually is in such a workplace compared to big million/billion dollar companies.
  10. So things sorted out; I remembered wrong (luckily in this case) and have no saved credit card number on the account. But now it is all fixed. And yes, the mail I had gotten was thus a fake, as suspected. And as irony has it, of course I managed to find my password out, when I was trying to make a new one.... Hahaa
  11. Work provides you with the hardware. Not the account (yeah, it's stupid), and my account was actually carried over from my previous work, so it is a personal account. And since I have done one purchase for one software I needed, and since you cant register an account with apple without providing a credit card number, that is what worries me. Regardless if it is a personal account or not, the general policy from any company or website is "if this log in was not by you, reset your password immediately" or something similar. But that was apparently not true here, unless you have an apple device. Like Zando_ says below, I only get the option to do this via their customer support, which will be a much longer process. Since they already have 2-step authentication process, just send me a security message to my SMS number amd then let me log in... But no.. Will deal with this today at work, but I just had to ventilate, because this just annoyed the shit out of me.
  12. I got a suspicious receipt from "presumably app store". I wanted to log in from home to double check if I've been hacked or something. The only reason I have apple-account is because I have macbook at work. But I so seldom need to log in to appstore, so I need to reset my password to get in (and if it's been hacked, they have probably changed that. But at home I don't own a single apple device. So apparently changing passwords can't be done from a non-apple device... Like what the actual duck????? What if you are on vacation and just need to do something similar and check/change something? How is this even okay? How is this providing more security? And before anyone asks; work provides us with Macbooks, Didn't get an option for Windows even... Screenshots are in Swedish, but essentially, the first image tells me (after verifying my phone number) to open up account passowrd reset on my mac. If that is not an option, I have to choose ANOTHER APPLE DEVICE....
  13. When opening this tabletop microcenteifuge today, it really felt like I opened something from LTT. Perhaps it's time to start collaborating with Corning? It is bigger, faster and more silent than the old one (blue), so just what I would expect from an LTT product.
  14. Actually the CX was less bright than the C9, which is why it was kinda funny that when the first EVO panels came, they were essentially the C9-panels with some more safeguards. The C2 should be brighter than the C1, which was as bright as the C9. Or am I misinformed here? Nevertheless, this thread is getting really off-topic, isn't it? This was just to discuss news and potential rumors and potential development pipeline for what we can expect. Not a "is OLED good or bad"-thread. Plenty of those threads already. I respect your criticisms towards OLED, and they are legit (even if I think you are overly cautious), others might find the benefit of the technology. It is just that after I got my C9, both my PC monitors look so terrible by comparison; even my photo-grade panel (which albeit is from 2011). Best compromise would probably be a miniled screen, but they don't come in any smaller size than 32" still, and they are somehow more costly than OLED. The dream is MicroLED, but those are faaaaar from being accessible for normal consumers in a 27"- 32" format, even less for a sensible price. Thus QD-OLED (or regular OLED too) is more appealing for that (imho) perfect experience
  15. I never said it wasn't valid. But this thread is about the availability of QD-OLED and future iterations. Issues with specifically the Alienware is not the topic here. And that was why I specifically said that 4/5 issues mentioned in that video is specific to that model, not due to QD-OLED panels itself. In my very first (or was it second) post I also mention that my interest is to know if I can even expect a 27" 1440p/4K monitor with this technology, as I dont have space or interest in curved or UW monitors. That all (hopefully) cleared up, has thete become any more support for that sub-pixel issue or is text still jittery without the adjustments you mentioned you have made?
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