0ld_Chicken

I would buy all brand new fittings, not used, and all from the same brand.
Bitspower fittings are better than other brands like EK and koolance.

Fittings are a risky thing to buy used imo.  I'm personally moving away from rotary fittings (hopefully) and especially used rotary fittings seem scary
edit: 

Woah, time for some clean pants after that update!  

Fittings are a risky thing to buy used imo.  I'm personally moving away from rotary fittings (hopefully) and especially used rotary fittings seem scary
edit: 

If it's just about the temps and you're going to go hardline I'd probably just start that gpu loop with basic straight soft tube compression fittings like you linked (though I'm sure you can find quality fittings cheaper).  Do a basic GPU only loop and add a rad and cpu block down the line.  I've always found a use for a few soft tube fittings in my builds so it's not like they're a total waste. 

Right after I order 2 liters of it so I could built the loop this weekend... ugh, and to boot Microcenter doesn't stock any white coolants either. I'll probably just take the loss, use the coolant so I can get the loop going, and then order better stuff and just flush the loop. It'll be good practice I guess. (I'm also just really antsy and looking forward to building)
 
Update: ordered mayhems pastel white, overnighted shipping, actually only cost marginally more than the c1000, which will be returned upon arrival

It was quiet setting. Ive since drained the loop, removed the GPU, split the block and cleaned it out, and reseated the block on the GPU with new paste and was less of a pussy tightnening the block down, seems to have dropped temps 15C or so, but I'm normal fan speeds at the moment to help bleed the loop quicker. Gonna try quiet later

Ok it seems to be working fine now. I changed pcie slots then cleared cmos. Everything booted up. Idle temps below 30, not passing mid 40s in game so far. Will try running at load and see how it goes.

It doesn't hurt, personally I flush my rads by hooking it up to tap water to neutralize and rinse out any remaining vinegar solution. That list above sounds good to me, after flushing with the vinegar you can use the bicarbonate solution and a few more rinses after to ensure nothing is left of the bicarbonate will do. After you'll want to do a final rinse with distilled.

Shouldn't need much really maybe a table spoon per liter it's just to help neutralize any acid remaining in the rad. Give it a good shake and leave it for a couple of mins before rinsing it all back out. 

It's no problem at all!  W-L's got good advice here.  I'm not sure on vinegar concentration but I think that should be fine at the ratio you mentioned.  also I believe that is the bicarbonate you are looking for 
 
I generally leave the vinegar solution in for a few hours, shaking vigorously several times over and sometimes i'll even run the rad under hot water to heat it up again after it cools.  I've heard people say a few minutes and I've heard to leave them overnight so I compromise.  I've got a stack of dirty rads and some blitz pt1 coming this week, maybe I'll do a comparison and see what happens. 
 

I've had great success with Barrow fittings.  Not as polished as some others, but very dependable and a good way to save a buck.  Fittings are the silent killer to a loop budget.  

I'm finally trying Barrow fittings out for the first time, just have to wait for shipping from China.  I'll admit, the price was amazing!  Was originally only going to buy a few things but ended up buying replacements for almost all my fittings.  I'm a little skeptical still but we'll see. 
 
Waterblocks are another story, not sure I could do that yet. I'll admit I really haven't heard many bad things though about byski and barrow blocks.  Obviously the cheapo aluminum parts should be scrapped entirely. 

I've had a few name brand rotaries leak on me recently so I'm going to try a loop with no rotaries.  It's been a while 
 
I think I do already have a few of their short extenders/adapters and even a couple rotaries.  They are almost too tight!  Very firm

It's no problem at all!  W-L's got good advice here.  I'm not sure on vinegar concentration but I think that should be fine at the ratio you mentioned.  also I believe that is the bicarbonate you are looking for 
 
I generally leave the vinegar solution in for a few hours, shaking vigorously several times over and sometimes i'll even run the rad under hot water to heat it up again after it cools.  I've heard people say a few minutes and I've heard to leave them overnight so I compromise.  I've got a stack of dirty rads and some blitz pt1 coming this week, maybe I'll do a comparison and see what happens. 
 

I've had tolerancing issues with some EK rotary fitting before where the snap ring and groove are too loose. However same as the o-rings on the threaded G1/4 portion the rotary sections have orings that will need to be changed as they age, that is if the parts can be snapped apart.

As usual with most of these hot deals, this comes with a rebate to get it down to the $45 price tag, but even with no rebate it's a sweet deal
 
An MSI ATX Z170 board is being offered for $65 on Newegg as a shell-shocker deal, with an additional $20 rebate on top of that, making this the cheapest Z-series board I've ever seen new.
 
https://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=Homepage_SS-_-P2_13-130-902-_-05152017&Index=2
 
*i really hope that the rebate stacks with Newegg's promo code. it should, but if it doesn't then I will change the post.
 

Upgrading my rig a bit.
 
pcpartpicker
 
Old:

In progress:

Specs:
 
-CPU: i7 6800k
-GPU: GTX 1080 Ti SLI
-MB: X99 STRIX Gaming
-RAM: 32GB DDR4 3000MHz
-SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 1TB
-HDD: Seagate Barracuda 3TB
-PSU: EVGA Supernova 850 P2
-Case: Cooler Master - Mastercase Maker 5
 
 

 
Any suggestions / criticisms are welcome

Installed the kyrom.2 waterblock... And tried the new ek coolant with a parallel loop

The almost no-clearance custom water-cooled build in a Fractal Design Define C! First build converted into also first custom-water cooled PC =)

HyperionMod v1
 

 



 

First few pics are older. Last pics are current.
 
First pics are
i5 4690k
2X MSI R9 290 w/ Alphacool blocks
16gb Corsair Vengence
XSPC cpu block
XSPC 240, 280 and 140 rads
Coolermaster HAF Stacker 935
Primochill res/XSPC d5 head
 
Last pic is current setup with 1 R9 290 taken out and a Samsung 960 Evo m.2 added. Also took the 140mm rad out. 
Also recently picked up an LG 34uc79g-b ultrawide. My first ultrawide 144hz monitor.
PCMR:)
 
 
 
 
 
 

Just wrapped up V2.0  
 

Not as pretty as other rigs since cables are p nasty. Have to use every PSU cable because of GPUs. Makes rear cable management a nightmare. 
 
It can look like a heap but as long as she's fast bai
 
ASUS Rampage V Extreme
INTEL Core i7-5820K 4.7GHz 1.281V | 4.5GHz 1.281V (Core | Cache)
G Skill Trident Z 3200MHz C16-18-18 4x4GB
2x EVGA GTX 980 Classified K|NGP|N 1555MHz | 8000MHz
EVGA SuperNOVA 850W G2
Corsair Obsidian 750D 
 
Cooling hardware: 
CPU: EK Supremacy EVO Nickel-Plexi
GPU: EK GTX 980 K|NGP|N block Nickel-Plexi
Fittings: ACF and HDC
Tubing: Myahems 10/13mm
Quick Disconnects: Koolance QD3
Radiator: Watercool MoRa3 420 LC - GTX 480 for scale