TheDigitalRealm

I'd also recommend downloading GPU-Z, CPU-Z and HWinfo64 to get more accurate readings of usage.

Hi! I'm in the same boat and game on my 4K 60Hz TV with a 3070. So the HDMI 2.1 on the 3080 will do 4K 120Hz, so assuming your TV has a 2.1 port you can use the full bandwidth of that port with no issues! The same goes for HDR which has had full support since at least HDMI 2.0 so also not a problem! DP is just a higher bandwidth standard with a nicer, locking connecter which I personally prefer. As for considering an AMD GPU, Smart Access Memory should not be the deciding factor at all since it's a rebrand of a feature built into the PCI-e spec called resizable BAR and Nvidia has already introduced support for it. Your friends experience is unfortunate but definitely not representative of the vast majority of AMD card owners/users. It seems far more likely that he has some instability somewhere in his system, that could be software, drivers or a faulty or badly overclocked component. By all accounts the 6000 series by AMD are very stable, more so than the early Nvidia FE cards due to Nvidia pushing the silicon close to the edge out of the box. The question really comes down to whether you really care about Ray Tracing or not (IMO it's not in enough games to be a killer feature, and of those games implementation varies massively in quality) There's also DLSS but that's soon to become less of a factor with AMDs FSR which works on both AMD and Nvidia cards, although there are those that only use DLSS (these technologies give you a boost in FPS by running the game at lower than native resolution then upscaling while preserving detail) At the moment though I'd get which ever card is available at a semi-reasonable price. If you can grab a 6800 XT for less than £900 you're doing well. It will likely also age better for 4K gaming due to having more vram. Whatever you get, enjoy!

And apologies for the face close-up, just come back from a boat trip and haven't shaved. Oh and for the sorry the nails, I'll be re-doing them tomorrow

Hey, I've had my fair share of premium earbuds (original Sennheiser IE80's, RHA T10) and I've had my Galaxy Buds+ for just over a year now and they're by far the best all-round pair I've owned. I wanted to go wireless but also get something I could run and go XC Mountain Biking with and not worry about them falling out. These stay in even on rough terrain and only ever feel slightly loose in heavy rain or with sweat in a heavy workout, and even then only the in-ear bud get slightly loose, the rubber tab at the top fits into your ear and prevents them falling out and I've never felt them. See attached images. Pros: By default they do block a decent amount of noise, and when running in my quiet neighbourhood thats fine, but when I'm cycling on busy roads to get to the track, there's a setting called 'Ambient Noise' which uses the multiple microphones in each bud to live record and playback the ambient noise around you, and has three settings getting progressively louder. Obviously it means music doesn't sound as good, and podcasts to a lesser extent, but at it's lowest setting its not too intrusive and makes me far more aware on the road. Overall audio quality is awesome for the price (I paid £100 but you can regulary find them on sale for below £70 or even £50 for ex-display or refurbished units) even at full price they're still worth it IMO. Still one of the few wireless earbuds with over an over 10 hour battery life - they claim 12 but I got more like 11 at 60% volume. Touch controls are great and have customisable long press short-cuts via the app and some different EQ settings. Downsides: twice now one of the earbuds has dropped significantly in volume. The first time was due to a bug which has now been patched - I got around it by un-pairing, resetting them and pairing to another device, then resetting and pairing them back to my primary phone. The second time was due to a much more common issue, gunk getting into and behind the chrome speaker grill. It looked plenty clean but after using isopropyl it was still quiet. It took removing the chrome grill and cleaning the fine black mesh behind it with a cotton bud dipped in 99.9% pure isopropyl alcohol to fix it, and they've been fine for the 7 months since. Hot water with some soap/dish soap would probably work fine too but cleaning regularly should prevent it ever happening (clean it even if it looks clean from the outside!) There are other great wireless earbud options so I hope you enjoy whatever you end up picking, I just thought I'd share my experience with these! Oh, and the find my earbuds feature is very useful and saved my butt many times!

Something like the evga 550W G3 would be better - well reviewed, 80plus Gold rated and in the UK currently on sale EVGA 550 G3 review

Hi all, my first time back on the forum in like 4 years and noticed this thread, and remembered my old 3770K golden sample that I used to battle it out in @Jumper118s thread with @harrynowl back in 2014 to see who could get the highest cinebench score with a socket LGA1155 CPU, him using his 2600K @5.3GHz against my 3770K @5.1GHz. I just about won and at the time, had the unofficial title for fastest cinebench score for an 1155 socket cpu. I know this doesn't quite meet all the criteria now to be added, but wondered if it could maybe get an honorary mention in the table?

He's re-seated the RAM and CPU which made no difference, he's just removed the GPU so I'll get him to try booting plugged in through integrated graphics now and then put the GPU back in.

Okay, he just pulled the GPU out so I'll get him to try it with out the 770 installed.

It won't be very significant if any performance gain. As said above, the GPU boost usually takes them above their official boost clocks. The 1070 doesn't usually get hot and gets similar boost speeds to third party custom PCB cards. If you really like the founders edition aesthetic, and don't care about really pushing your card with overclocking, go with the Reference founders edition if thats what you prefer aesthetically.

I haven't posted in a while, due to moving out of my parents into the city (Bristol) to get an IT job (Now a network engineer) but a friend of mine who I taught and helped build his gaming PC around two years ago messaged me. He has the following issue: Powers on PC, fans ramp up to max but screen remains black, both through the video card (GTX 770) and through the Integrated graphics ( i5 4400). He's tried shorting the clear CMOS pins on his Gigabyte H87-HD3 motherboard but it didn't make any difference. I think it may be a dead motherboard based on that alone, but what are your thoughts? Specs: Motherboard: Gigabyte Z87-HD3 RAM: 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 1600MHz CPU: i5 4440 GPU: GTX 770 (I forget the model, ASUS maybe Power Supply: Corsair RM550 Samsung 840 EVO 250GB

Actually I'd be fairly interested in a 1080p HDR TV for my bedroom - saw the tech at my friends house and High Dynamic Range does make a difference when you're watching/playing supported content. Along with an Xbox One S, I think that's what I'd like to receive. As for what I'd like to give, most of my friends and family don't own a smart tv, but some have very decent 1080p TV's so I'd like to give a Chromecast - they're simple to set up for the less tech-savvy and don't cost an arm and a leg. Cheap streaming of Netflix, YouTube, Twitch, Now TV etc etc, without paying a few hundred dollars for a new TV.

Give us an example? How is it ruining your fps? Every nvidia card does this?

Oh okay so it's just based on usage. Yep that'll just be GPU boost, as well as any power management you have running in the driver panel.

If we're talking 2nd hand, then there are a lot of better options - Heck, a GTX 970 used would beat it handily. Taking into account that Nvidia really nerfed the 700 series in driver updates once the 900 series was established so I'd steer clear of a 700 series card or any Kepler based GPU at this point.

Does it do this during benchmarks and stress tests too? If so it's most likely not stable enough to hold 2000MHZ boost state for long, try sitting it at around 1850 and see if it's still fluctuating as it is.

I think this is still a small niche of games, especially once you remove those that are either badly ported or just poorly optimised. There definitely are some heavily CPU bound titles, most top-down RTS games of the last 10 years will start to make a CPU sweat with lots of physics on-screen at a time (Think Dawn of War, DoW 2). There are some points where having an i7 will definitely help, but at the moment for a purely gaming machine I'd still recommend an i5. From an enthusiasts standpoint though, it's a completely different standpoint. You're no longer building a machine to perform a certain function well, you're building it to be proud of it, and for it to excel in its workloads. So, coming from an enthusiast, If I was building a new machine with this kind of budget in mind, I'd go for the 6700K to start with and possibly go X99 if the money was there.

Exactly, and even then, if Zen is all its cracked up to be, processors with more than 4 cores will be dropping fairly soon. With the industry push Zen will hopefully create, I doubt any 6700K priced processor from Intel or AMD will ever bottleneck a top of the line GPU. Sticking with the 6700K and it'd still hold up for years with no issues.

How do people still ask this question with a 6700K? Jeez. If you're buying this kind of hardware, you really should know this by now and have invested the time in learning. Linus has done many videos covering this exact topic, as well as doing analysis on how many cores are used in modern titles and how much the CPU matters in terms of load distribution. You'd have been fine with an i5 6600K nevermind the i7. Essentially, barring badly optimised titles and the rare few games that can use more than 4 cores, most of which are still in development, you're fine with a Quad core processor.

Same here, the grammar (or lack thereof) made it a little tricky to get through, but I think I understand the point you're trying to make.

For a 980 Ti I'd actually recommend a Zotac AMP! Extreme edition - It has the highest boost clocks out of the box of any GTX 980 Ti (1430MHz seems to be standard across the board) and that's not factoring in overclocking. I'm loving mine, and at the default fan profile it stays passive up until 65 degrees, and holds it at 66 degrees on full load consistently.

Yeah, it'll be fine buddy. It's a closed loop system so it's covered as far as anti-corrosive agents are concerned. You won't get any liquid thickening or blocking any part of the AIO. Enjoy your trip!

Not unless you do content creation. I love mine for using Adobe CC applications, specifically Photoshop, Premiere Pro, and After effects. For gaming though, totally not worth it. My PC is a workstation first and a gaming PC second. (No loading screen in Skyrim!) In summary, not worth it AT ALL for a gaming PC.

There's a OneDrive App on Android yes, but I don't know if it a built in media player or whether it takes advantage of the phones music player.

Ah yes, Google Music would be your best option until you get enough storage in your next phone to go with high bit rate MP3 files, which would give you the highest quality file playback without needing to rely on an internet connection.

No, just true. There's a clearly explained template for asking advice on PC parts, it needs to be in context. It's not a biggie.