GER_T4IGA

I can't find many B650 boards in that range but I would probably go for the MSI PRO B650M-P. I would avoif A620 as the features are just to cut down and you will regret it later.

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately there for only one dump file (when I look at the date now it is from march. Anything else I can run? SysnativeBSODCollectionApp gets stuck at "Waiting for SystemInfo". SMART data on the primary 980 Pro 1TB says the drive should be healthy though. I have a drive at hand I could swap out. I pulled back the RAM to 3400 from 3600 DOCP profile. I played games yesterday night for a few hours without any crashing. If the issue doesn't come back I'll call it on the RAM ...

Looking at the Error code it seems that some operation regarding RAM failed. I will try and revert my RAM to 3400 and see if it helps

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NfTTdfdVgc7yTbUlrt2rXsWzaGykaEUU/view?usp=sharing Here is the minidump file. I hope it contains something useful.

Sysnative BSOD Collection app is stuck at Waiting for SystemInfo for more than 30 minutes. Don't know what to do

Would you generally recommend this as a trouble shooting step fitting the symptoms I described or just as the only sensible alternative I have if I want to "repair" my windows install as I am suspicious of its integrity.

Seems like a normal amount of IPS bleed to me

OS: Win 11 x64 (upgraded from Win 10) CPU: Ryzen 9 5900HX Mobo: Asus x570 Crosshair Impact (BIOS unkown, will go find out) RAM: 2x16 GB G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3600MHz 16-19-19-39 (DOCP enabled) GPU: EVGA 2080Ti (driver 536.99) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1TB PNY XLR8 CS3030 2TB (swapped for AORUS NVMe Gen4 SSD 1TB, issue persists) Aquacomputer quadro and a bunch of watercooling shit in an Ncase M1 with medium to bad airflow. Sysnative BSOD collector is still running. Will update this post once it finishes. Failures happens at irregular intervals and the BSOD screen dissapears so fast I can't even read the error code. It happens intermittenly, mostly while playing games (Anno 1800), Sometimes it crashes while browsing (just watching youtube). I ran furmark and prime95 for 30 minutes to check if it is an overheating issue but it didn't crash. I swapped out the SSD I thought was overheating because it was unavailable multiple times just before a crash. Had some crashes happend while just downloading steam updates, not actively using computer. Still have to test if the problem persists with stock clocks. Reset GPU for now and will reset RAM at next reboot when checking BIOS. How can I reinstall windows while keeping my files nowadays? I would like to try that

In what way is it frustrating to use Google drive? That info might help answer your question. In my experience Google drive is the less frustrating alternative compared to a Synology DS218Play. Remember that if someone remote wants to download from this NAS your Upload speed is what matters. In my experience the Synology NAS takes quite long to wake up from stand by which can be frustrating to and running over even less distance but also a municipal internet speed (50/10) between two European neighbors it is quite slow. It also comes with the hassle of having to administrate it. In my opinion a NAS is worth it for fast local storage or for sensitive data you don't want in the cloud. To me it seems like solving the grievenaces you have with your current cloud solution would be easier and cheaper than getting a NAS.

Did you remove the plastic peel from the bottom of the cooler/ did you put any thermal paste between cold plate of the cooler and CPU?

Viewing distance: about 2.15m(7.05ft) to the center of the screen. Couch won't be here before next year. Position might chage but that is the current setup. At that distance I came up with between 50" and 55". I personally don't like overblown colors but from what I have seen calibration can fix it to, good enough for 90% of people. There seem to be some other issues like tone mapping that I don't understand yet. Also my understanding is that most of the dumb "at review/release time"-issues with this one have been fixed in firmware updates since. Is that the case? Any first hand experience? I have little to no experience with any modern TV OS. People seem to hate TizenOS. I am considering throwing an Apple TV 4K or a Chromecast 4K at it and never touching it beyond initial setup. Will I be bothered? Other options include an LG OLED55C27LA for 1199€ but that is a full class below the Samsung S95B Tier. I know it should be better compared to the LG G2 but those are at 1550€ out of my budget comfort zone and as the reviews seem to suggest superior in dark scenes but vastly inverior in color performance. I think I about understand the implications of WOLED vs QD-OLED. I don't yet understand Sony's lineup. The A95k is at a ridiculous 2.4k€. Sony XR-55A80K for 1199€ or Sony XR-55A80J for 999€. Philips: I like Ambilight and they support both Dolby Vision and HDR10+ which is a big plus. Both the 55OLED707 and 856 are at about 1250€ so technically in range. My flat shares Phlips year old 4k LCD hasn't seen security updates for android in years and takes 30s+ to boot which are both big nonos for me. Also Panasonic which a rep tried talking me into but couldn't explain why. I am worried about the downside of "only" having HDR10+ and not Dolby Vision. Most reviews I have found have done an attrocious job of acctually explaining significant differences downsides, let alone make a comparison what happens on fall back to HDR10. Anything I should understand about what I am getting myself into with an S95B?

What model of PSU do you have, what is your restart procedure? Is it just of? Do you have to reset the PSU? Anything else that is noteworthy?

Are you on battery or plugged in?

Not bas as in "will damage something" but bad as in wear. I don'T see the necessity either. Just plug it in after you have the braket, when it is actually useful.

From looking at 32" 16:9 which I had previously considered as a 4k option I found that to be to large, to comfortably see the whole screen so 40 or 50 inch is off the table. I have a TV at my disposal if I want to use it and I don't think the massive height of even a 40" would do me well on my desk. I am currently watching the HW unboxed video and the HDR issue seems to be mostly fixed and moreover 3 months have passed since. OK, watching more of the techtesters video amde it souind really grim. I hope QD OLED by Samsung isn't even more expensive or the same QC desaster. Then it might be worth considering.

I don't have a specific answer but I think configurators/shops like cable mod could have the answer becasue the kits you can buy there say what they are compatible with. Go find a kit that fits your PSU and then check what other units it is compatible with and there you have what your cable s should be compatible with. Still to be taken with a grain of salt of course!!!

I would wipe it and try again with Samsung magician. Never had an issue with that. Only works when cloning to a Samsung drive though.

Have you tried installing Palit's software to see if it is just turned of?

I am a little out of the loop. Since it is out for a while now, are most of them issue, like scan lines, calibration/tone mapping issue fixed? Does it work fine with a 2080Ti via Displayport or do I need to worry about anything? I will also use it to work from home with a device unlikely to be better than HDMI 2.0. For completeness: I am contemplating buying one. I currently have a 1440p165 Acer XB270HU and I would like more screen space. I kinda don't want to go back to deal monitor - tripple could work but is a bit ridiculous space wise. I was also considering the LG 38GN950 and 27GN950 but available is terrible. I can get the G9 Neo locally for 1900€ which seems steep the more I think about it ... Any kind of advice is appreciated, but preferably from personal experience with a G9 (Neo).

Source for my opinion: I have a powerful system in an Ncase M1 which is reasonable small (with a dedicated GPU) but that is freaking heavy. If you need to move it, get a laptop. If you have to bring a monitor it doesn't really matter if your PC is compact. You could get something like an Intel NUC but if you have to go somewhere where you also have to bring the monitor a laptop is 98% of times the better option. A display is heavy, fragile and still bulkier than most but the largest laptops.

Don't compare apples to oranges. Do you have abenchmark run, from back in the day, like unigine heaven and an associated score? Compare those, not different games and settings. A lot can go wrong even when testing the same hardware twice consecutively and switching operating system can also make a noticable difference -usually for the better. If you don't have a proper benchmark baseline I think it will be hard to answer. Feelings are feelings after all and not very accurate. New games coming out will undoubtedly be more taxing. Have you checked for other people benchmarks for say BF3 with a 4670k and a GTX960?

I 'dd'-ed everything from one drive to anonher then got not display out after a subsequent reboot which should have had nothing to do with the cloning - which it turned out it hadn't. It shouldn't matter how many bootable windows partitions I attach to my motherboard, right? It would just boot from the one first in line in the BIOS boot order.

CMOS reset fixed it. Thanks for your help.

Update: Wden pressing the power button my monitor wakes up from sleep, then notifies me of 'no signal's and consequently gone back to sleep. Using either just HDMI or display port. Same behavior on both. I have tried powering down the system via long press of the power button and turning of the PSU forcefully.

I couldn't if I wanted to.