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xDanielxOossiex

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Posts posted by xDanielxOossiex

  1. A few months ago I started a project NAS computer. But things got in the way so I put it aside. Now that I have time to work on it again, I wanted to boot it up and start all over again. But the PC doesn't boot. After some diagnosing, I found that not a single one of the USB ports give power. Neither does the front I/O USB3.0.

    Where would this power come from? Is it (as close to as possible) straight from the PSU, or does the mobo "control" it?

    Would a new PSU fix the issue or would I need a new motherboard?

    Mobo is an ASRock B85M Pro4, PSU = be quiet Pure Power L7-350W

  2. 3 minutes ago, AntiTrust said:

    I stick to samsung ssd, theyve been really reliable for me. I have used the crucial mx500 though and it is also good with usually a lower price than the samsung 

    I like to stay Samsung as well, I already have 2 Samsung SSDs so they would only match 😜

  3. So recently my pc started giving this notification (even before the boot screen of the mobo) that one of my drives is going bad. It's saying S.M.A.R.T. is predicting a failure.

    Now I only have games on that 1TB HDD so I'm not worried at all about losing this drive. The drive has a total of 33,504 Power on Hours and 4006 Power on Count.

     

    afbeelding.png.ad1ef970abee06c107374a682711f181.png

     

    As HDDs are becoming kind of obsolete now, I want to upgrade to a 1TB SSD (even full SSD system later down the road), but there is so much info I don't understand. Like 4Krandom performance etc. I don't really care about all that info but I do just want a good drive for my games. Which one of the drives below is recommended for purely game storage? (I want an SSD to make my pc as quiet as possible)

    These drives are the cheapest 1TB SSD in my county (The Netherlands):

     

    afbeelding.png.9a6ef3c91982567bbcaf39bdd8e26158.png

     

  4. I'm going to keep this short:

    Yesterday after I came home from work, I played a few games without any issues. (BeamNG.drive, Overwatch and watched a few Youtube videos)

     

    Today I wanted to play Overwatch again, but my PC's BSOD'ed.

     

    The DMP files are attached

    DMPs.txt NTOSKRNL.txt

     

    I have experienced more BSOD's a while back, but I think my NZXT Hue+  was the issue, I physically disconnected it from the pc and I did not get any more BSOD's.

     

     

    I just updated my BIOS (ASUS TUF GAMING B550M, R5 5600X) from 1804 to 2003. After the BIOS update my pc would boot into Windows again without issue.

     

    Is there any program I can run to scan Win10 for error/corrupted files?

  5. 13 hours ago, jonnyGURU said:

    So, I've seen this problem a lot, even with newer, better PSUs.

     

    Running a lot of RGB and USB uses a lot of +5V.  But modern PSUs are focused on +12V.  So you can overheat the DC to DC for the +5V even though the PSU as a whole is not stressed out.

     

    Not going to lie and say I'm not a fan of RGB, etc., but I'm going to tell you that I've even seen PSUs as high end as AX1600i not like having too much RGB.  Fact of the matter is that NONE of the PSUs available today have any kind of passive cooling on the DC to DC cards.  Unless you get something that claims 120W or more on the +5V, it's going to be problematic.

     

    Unfortunately, a System Power 9 only has 90W on the +5V, so it's going to overheat easily.

     

    I only use the 4 RGB strips that came in the Hue+'s box

  6. On 3/13/2021 at 5:09 PM, curiousmind34 said:

    It could be a power supply issue, or it could be not. The minimum for a 1080ti is 600w, and it is possible the storage and fans could be pushing that. At the same time, the tdp of a 5600x is lower than a 10700k. 

    What I reccomend is to run a gpu intensive but not cpu intensive benchmark like furmark: https://www.techpowerup.com/download/furmark/ and if that crashes you know it's your graphics card, not your power supply. If it doesn't crash, it's likely your psu

    Just ran Furmark for like 13 minutes on 1080p 8x msaa with +140MHz core

    No issues whatsoever

     

    Start:

    1937047782_1080Tistressbegin.thumb.png.0760409e4cef9f998a768045c496f403.png

     

    End:

    1725524591_1080Tistresseind.thumb.png.8f0f24b4ee010765d92dd2cea72603e2.png

     

  7. Okay maybe I am not the best at explaining the whole issue in a way everyone understands. I removed the powercable from the Hue+ and the pc booted into Windows just fine. I ran the Windows repair program and it had repaired some files. After that the pc booted into Windows and I immediately ran Win10 updates. I haven't had any issues after that.

     

    My thinking in shortest way possible:

    I ran a game which is very GPU intensive, I have a lot of accessories (RGB mousepad and mouse, LED illuminated G710+, Hue+, loads of drives and fans) and a power hungry 1080Ti, all on a 5 year old 600W 80+Silver PSU which has seen hours of use. The moment a spike in powerdraw occured from the GPU, one of the drives got low voltage/amps and made the game crash. After I restarted the game 3 times, with it crashing 4 times, it maybe took some Windows 10 neccesary files down with it.

  8. Okay so I recently upgraded from an EVGA GTX1070 FTW ACX3.0 to MSI GTX 1080Ti Armor. Yesterday I started my pc and started playing Horizon Zero Dawn, the game kept crashing and crashing, sometimes it took 5 minutes to crash, sometimes 45 minutes. When the game crashed the last time, I stopped playing and went to do something else. (also the NZXT HUE+ didn't get recognized by NZXT software, which I think is due to too much powerdraw from other devices) Then a day later, I turned on my PC and it BSOD's after 2 minutes on the main screen. I thought nothing of it and waited for it to restart, but then again, 5 minutes after starting another Windows BSOD with corrupt filte error happenend, and so I got like 10 different file corruption errors. At first I didn't connect the game crashing and BSOD's with eachother, but I think I overloaded my PSU (by really loading up the 1080Ti) and it could not deliver enough power to one of the drives. After some Googling I came to a website wtih possible causes of this issue. As I hadn't changed anything else, I

     

    Current system specs:

    5600X (+-65Watt)

    16GB RAM

    GTX1080Ti (+-275W)

    Drives:

    3x HDD(+-50W)

    2x SSD

    1 M.2 NVME

    3x 140mm PWM case fans

    2x 120mm PWM case fans

    NZXT HUE+ with RGB LED strip (which just wouldn't be recognized by NZXT software)

    All powered by Be Quiet PurePower9 600W 80+ silver.

     

    So I am pretty sure that I need a new, more powerful PSU, but how much do I need?

  9. So today I upgraded from my EVGA GTX1070 FTW to an MSI GTX 1080Ti Armor 11G

    After I replaced the thermal paste on the 1080Ti (which I have done earlier), I installed the 1080 Ti and used Display Driver Uninstaller to uninstall all old graphicscard drivers. This went without issues.

    Then I installed the Nvidia GPU drivers again through the GFE app.

    First game I wanted to play was RDR2, but I noticed the skin.. it was artifacting.

    No overclocks are applied, temps seem fine (~65-70C core)

     

    I'll attach some screenshots, in which you can see the black blocks form on the skin.

     

    Rest of PC specs:

    Ryzen 5 5600X

    16GB 3200MHz

     

     

    2119116313_RedDeadRedemption2Screenshot2021_03.02-22_20_00_16.png

    229124559_RedDeadRedemption2Screenshot2021_03.02-22_20_31_94.png

    Red Dead Redemption 2 Screenshot 2021.03.02 - 22.28.00.69.png

    162935841_RedDeadRedemption2Screenshot2021_03.02-22_19_55_72.png

  10. 13 minutes ago, taksumi said:

    Hi   i have  a noctua nh-u12s with 2 fans is it  good enough to cool a  ryzen 5600x at 3700MHZ cuz when i play games im always about 70-75 c would i need a better air cooler cuz dont really want to do water cooling.

    A Dark Rock Pro 4 would do wonders

  11. So I recently built a second pc to set it up as a NAS server for myself. I have googled and asked some people I know, but I just can't seem to find the right tutorial for me.

    If anyone has a good tutorial on setting up a NAS @ home in 2020, please provide the link to me.

     

    NAS specs:

    Gigabyte B85M Pro3, i5 4690, 8GB DDR3 1600MHz, 128GB SSD (curr. Win10Pro on it), 1TB HDD (3TB NAS HDD incoming soon).

     

    NAS requirements:

    - Easy setup and accesibility, with GUI

    - Accessible from any device with internet

    - Automatic phone pictures backup

  12. I've recently built a second pc from secondhand parts.

    The PC I want to use for the NAS is already running Windows 10 Pro, but I am getting stuck setting up the software side of things. I have Googled a good amount of times now but I just can't seem to find the right tutorial.

     

    I want to use the second pc for mass storage, and being accessible from the internet (via an app or website)

    And I would also like to automatically upload photo's taken on my phone, to the NAS's storage.

  13. Please read this carefully (I'm Dutch so I might have a weird way of describing some things.)

    Thanks in advance!

     

    I recently built myself a new NAS Server pc. I bought a secondhand pc from a friend, for parts. (Current NAS specs below)

    The pc had an old Windows account on it, but after some issues I managed to install fresh Win10Pro on the 256GB SSD. From there I got the 128GB SSD to work, so I have put Win10Pro on the 128GB SSD. After that I removed the 256GB SSD so I could use it in something else later on. I wanted to boot the pc again, but I got the Windows "boot device not found, insert bootable USB". I already knew what was up, the UEFI was still on the 256GB SSD which I removed. I put the 256SSD back, and it booted again.

    Now my question is: How do I get the UEFI from the 256GB to the 128GB SSD, without reinstalling everything (I have already setup up until the Ubuntu part)

     

    NAS specs:

    i5 4690

    8GB Adata RAM

    1TB HDD

    128GB SK Hynix SSD (for Windows 10 Pro (with Hyper-V -> Ubuntu VM running Nextcloud)

    256GB Crucial MX100 SSD (currently has the UEFI on it, UEFI has to be moved to the 128GB SSD)

    ASRock B85M Pro4

    bequiet! Pure Power 350W

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