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Torazo

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  1. I have, but I don't remember seeing anything out of the ordinary other than the 100% Disk Usage. The picture that shows the 0.000? When I check the Processes tab, everything under the Disk 100% header shows 0 MB/s. If you were meaning the Resource Monitor, I have checked that and I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary, but I didn't actually check it when I was testing Samsung Magician with Crystal Disk Mark. After uninstalling Samsung Magician though, I haven't seen any of those same issues. Also, if it was network usage, wouldn't that mean my computer would become unresponsive whenever a Steam game updated, or if I downloaded something? I even did the same test I did before I uninstalled Samsung Magician. I also ran about 4 tests with Samsung Magician installed and running, one of which was after I reinstalled it. I have ran 2 tests after I uninstalled it and I haven't seen my computer go unresponsive. I have seen a game go unresponsive for a couple seconds as it loaded up though, but the Disk Usage doesn't even come close to hitting 100% when that happens (Only about 20%), and it is only the game that does it in this case, unlike before when it was the entire system. I can even run CDM now while loading new internet pages, so something definitely has changed for the better in terms of responsiveness. It's rather confusing to me that Samsung Magician caused this though.
  2. OS: Windows 10, 64 Bit CPU: i7-4790K GPU: GTX 980 SSD: Samsung 850 Evo PSU: EVGA Supernova G2 850w I have gone through a lengthy set of tests with Microsoft Support, including an OS Refresh, to no avail. I was originally there for another reason, but this issue got in their way quite a few times, and even disconnected me from them at one point. I ran CDM and CDI, and they both seem to show that the SSD is running fine. If you are wondering about the 0.000 spots on CDM, I clicked STOP and waited about 30 seconds for it to stop because it was THAT unresponsive. <<< I do not know what is causing Task Manager to see the Disk as if it were hitting 100%, but if it is at 100% and only about 0.5MB/s is being used, it will still be as unresponsive as if it were at 100% while doing 200MB/s, or even higher as CDM shows. I have watched Task Manger and it is literally every time it says the Disk is at 100%. >>> Update: This portion doesn't seem to be a problem anymore, even though Task Manager still shows the Disk being at 100% at times still. The CDM picture was taken with R.A.P.I.D. Mode turned on (I turned it on for testing purposes, and thought something was a little odd), but even still, I decided to reinstall Samsung Magician in case I had an outdated version. After reinstalling it, it no longer happens every time it hits 100% in Task Manager, but it does still happen, even with it being as low as 0.4MB/s. I am going to uninstall Samsung Magician entirely to see if that solves the issue. I have uninstalled Samsung Magician and... So far no problems. This is interesting. At this point, I am pointing my finger at Samsung Magician. You will see two graphs on Task Manager, and one shows 0KB/s Read and 0KB/s Write. This was when Samsung Magician was installed and I was running CDM. The second graph was when I closed CDM, which took about 30 seconds to do and looks more standard for usage. What does Samsung Magician do to cause that to happen? It seems useful to have installed (Especially because of Over Provisioning), but the problems it seems to cause are just not worth it. Is there a way to fix this problem that Samsung Magician seemingly causes? TL;DR - I started typing this when I felt like I was out of options, then I thought "Wait, there's one thing I haven't tested", so this changed from trying to find out what was causing the issue, to believing the one thing that supports the SSD is what causes it, and how to prevent it from causing it when installed. That's some irony.
  3. It's not that. The issues I have seen about the Archer C7, is a Canadian Firmware issue (Canadian Firmware is WAY outdated on TP-Links site). I have looked into it and have read up that the US Firmware had an update that fixed the problem. It also seems that this kind of issue is happening with more than just one router too. I do know that routers behave differently in different environments. There was a point in which I determined that a faulty updated wireless signal from a Laptop was causing wireless interference and dropping the entire modem offline. I should also clarify a bit more on the wireless issues the Archer C7 seems to have. The issue is that the 5.0ghz wireless band (I believe it's only the 5.0ghz band; I should search it up again), shuts off and requires a restart of the router to turn it back on.
  4. I need one to support 5+ devices (Minimum of 3 wired + Dual Band Wireless). I was eyeballing the Archer C7 (AC1750) because it would have fit everything I wanted, but it seems like, that in Canada, the Firmware is outdated when compared to the US, and that there are still drops in Wireless. I am in Canada. I have seen a LOT of Routers that seem to have issues with the Wireless dropping, so it concerns me. My budget is somewhere between $100 and $150 CDN. I am curious if my old Router is just having issues with the new Modem I have. It is a BEFSR41 V.3, so it's very old. What happens, is that it tends to alternate download speeds between 10Mbps and 30Mbps quite a bit. Sometimes it will drop to 0, and rarely, it will go up to 40Mbps. My ISP is 150Mbps and I didn't have any issues when it was 100Mbps with the older ISP Modem we had. I do know that modems sometimes have issues with routers going through them, but 4 standard wired connections is not enough for everybody here. I am using CAT6 Cables, and I tried 3 different ones. Connected directly, the CAT6 Cables are all going fully strong, so the problem definitely lies with the Router, or with the Router+ISP Modem. If anyone believes it could very well be just a setting, or settings, on the Modem that is causing the problem with my current Router, please let me know what I should look out for.
  5. If I have to choose one, I would have to go with the mouse. My current mouse has double clicking issues and I might not be able to put it back together properly after I attempt a fix. I need a new mouse to attempt this in case things go horribly wrong. Since I am physically disabled and on disability, affording things is quite tough. but here's why I am a little torn between them; I've never had a mechanical keyboard before though. Been using a Logitech G15 since it was released with the blue backlit LED. I had to get it replaced because a friend of mine spilled a glass of water on it about a year and a half after I got it, so I have the orange backlit G15 and have had it ever since.
  6. I think everybody needs an SSD (At the very least) because it loads things blazing fast when compared to an HDD.
  7. Do you have Rocket League in Windowed Full Screen mode?
  8. My problem is, is that I don't know how to install updates through the downloads that Asus provides. They just have the files without a step by step process and selecting them as the target update files yielded nothing. As for the BIOS, I could probably find a video for that online. Updating the BIOS was something I wanted to avoid because of possible Bricking, but it seems necessary at this point. Darn. Looks like I need to obtain a USB Drive. \ Oops, I forgot to put down my problem with waking the PC from Sleep mode.
  9. (War Raider's Problem seems similar, but he doesn't list the other two problems) Windows 10 Home 64-bit Asus Maximus VII Hero i7-4790K CPU 32GB G.Skill RAM (Trident X I think) GTX 980 EVGA Supernova 850 G2 There aren't any current overclocks. The only changes to the BIOS are to use a monitor through the GPU and Motherboard so I can use two. The other is so the RAM can run properly. Problems: 1) Computer freezes during bootup at the "Press this button for setup or this button for". - After the computer has fully booted to the desktop, it seems this happens after a restart or shutdown is initiated. If I shut it down manually in the loadup, then I can start the computer and get back on and use it. 2) Upon bootup from shutdown, my mouse and keyboard are detected during the "Press button for setup" screen, but when arriving at the log-on screen, my mouse and keyboard are turned off and are off for about 10 seconds before they turn back on. 3) Computer rarely does some sort of partial freeze. If it freezes on the desktop, I cannot click any icons or use the taskbar. - When I press Ctrl+Alt+Del, then click "Cancel", this one goes back to normal as if nothing happened. 4) When I wake my computer up from Sleep mode, neither of my two monitors is detected. One Monitor is connected to the GPU and one is connected to the Motherboard. Other than these issues, I don't seems to be having any other problems. There are no error messages. BIOS Version 2.16.1240 which seems to be out of date. Could this be the source of all of the problems I am experiencing? I also don't know how to install Asus Drivers from their site.
  10. I messed up with the Blue. I saw it and a Caviar Green 2TB. The Blue is a 1TB priced at $65. Tried to get the edit in time, but I didn't. Why should I take Windows 8.1 OEM over the normal version? I also have the Supernova 850 G2 PSU along with Prolimatech PK-3 Thermal Paste. They were practically freebies.
  11. What else is there? I will be finding out after I start using the new computer either way. I like to experiment and push things. As for the pricing on the HDD's: Barracuda ST3000DM001 = 0.037 per GB ($110) (The 2GB version is 0.041 per GB = $83) Barracuda STBD3000100 = 0.050 per GB WD3003FZEX = 0.060 per GB Caviar Blue 1TB is $65.
  12. It's where I want to start at. Going to check into the Blue and Barracuda pricing right now.
  13. Definitely. I will probably be ordering the parts tomorrow since they are currently cheaper than normal right now... I hope they don't go up haha. I still need to figure out a good back-up HDD and Optical Drive... Hm. Someone said that WD is good and that Seagate tends to break down quicker. Which models are good? Purple? Red? Green? Caviar Green?
  14. Well... I'm not sure what kind of programs would help me with video editting, video creation, and other elements regarding that. The only thing I have that can search for those things is an Xbox360, and that is... Slow to say the least =/ I do know that I will have Steam, a bunch of installed video games, video recording software, video editting software, and possibly start making videos or even streaming on my own or with a few of my friends and a lot more. A few of the games I will be playing don't have multi-core support. There is probably a lot more to it than what I am stating, but I have no idea. I also want to be able to play games at 60fps, or as close to it as possible at 1440p... I will end up using multiple monitors. I think the reason why I couldn't say this was because I was too fixated on trying to answer your questions on their own... and I couldn't do that. I even skipped a bunch to think about it some more. I don't even know if what I am stating here helps much. I'm trying to think of the future, but it's vague because I have limited knowledge since I haven't been able to access it.
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