theninja35

Broo today i went to one pc shop to test the gpu and boom it worked. Like bro the smile on my face was priceless, guess what!! After i came back home the HDMI worked like charm 😁 im so happy bro

Youre looking at building your own rig out of 2x4, used Logitech G29, and a TV. And that is already 50% of your budget without a manual shifter or any other amenities. I personally think that 700$ just for the rig alone is absolutely doable, but including the PC its a bit of a pipe dream unless if youre fine with iRacing on rock bottom minimum settings or older.

Intel i9-13900K Super Fast !!!
 

Now begins the painting phase of each individual piece by hand with the brush.
 
This phase of work began immediately after the 3D printing of the various pieces and immediately after receiving the invitation to the competition because it was a very long process.
 

Resin 3D Printing Phase - Part Three
 
We see the resin-printed 3D pieces after drying with UV rays.
 

Resin 3D Printing Phase - Part Two
 
This is the 3D printing turn of Mario, Luigi and more
 

Resin 3D Printing Phase - Part One
 
This manufacturing process with the subsequent hand painting phase began when I received the invitation to this competition even if I am publishing it now.
 
 

The new home from the inside of Super Mario !
 

Last time I posted a build log there were two desks in this room. NOT because I "kicked her out", but because she agreed to letting me put the vocal booth back up (She said it was okay, pretty sure it was just to shut me up about it for the day but she did say it). Anyway, its been two months since she said it was cool and has LONG forgotten she said it... so here's a picture; posted from the couch I'm sleeping on. 

Hey everyone!   This is my most recent build.  I tried going for a black and silver theme and I feel like it turned out nice.  I painted the cable management bar and the 3D printed cover for the unifans to try and match the cablemod black and silver cables.
 
PC specs are:
Ryzen 7 7800X3D NZXT Kraken elite 360 (with the LCD screen) Asus ROG Strix X670e-f 32gb Gskill DDR5 6000 CL30 Gigabyte Windforce OC RTX 4080 4TB NVME gen4 storage (Crucial P5 plus as main and WD black sn770 as game drive). 10 Lian Li unifan SL 120 Infinity.  

so my idea for linus is.
that he should built few computers what are all kept in different conditions.
 
for example one will be burried completely in underground soil.
one computer would be conditions where it is in moist environment.
some ohter will kept in very dusty environment and so on.
 
all theys computers would be built in way,that they would not instantly fail.
 
long term goal would be to test how it would effect performance in long term and how long hardware would actually endurance then used actively.

Your FX 8350 is definitely the limiting factor here. MSFS is quite CPU heavy and this CPU is not very good.
Seen a few clips on Youtube with the same CPU and they are getting between 17-28fps.

use a dremel then sand and polish the edges for finishing

So here's my sim rig, the seat and stand are from playseats.nl which I purchased from Facebook marketplace for £30 that also included a dared thrustmaster 458 wheel and pedals. The seat base since then I have painted in Porsche Acid Green which was then finished with PPG ceramic lacquer. To this i applied genuine Aston Martin decals along with a genuine gel vorstiner badge. It controller is now a Logitech g29 which actually only personally cost me £40 due to receiving a gift card from work. 
 
Unfortunately it has hardly been used due to family life and the need to work. 
 

I think he's saying his own suggestion is a random justification, as in, he picked no region in particular to justify his point.
 
Expanding beyond America's borders would make for a unique game but the majority of GTA players are most familiar with the US and that's important to note because a lot of GTA's narrative consists of parody or satire regarding American culture and politics. GTA without those elements would be neutered, and trying to create that sort of narrative about an unfamiliar place would be foreign to a lot of players.
 
I like your idea though. I'd love to play an open-world game with the depth and style of GTA but in a region that hasn't really been explored in gaming before. I think it's possible that we'll see a small-scale version of a Mexican or Cuban city with VI since it's expected to take place in Vice City. It would make sense since those areas have been in American media a lot in the last few years, too.

Sorry that I didn't help any with what you were looking for.  Better luck next time and it wasn't a problem, gave me something to look for and I was glad to help.
 

From what I can find on the web doing a google search on "mdpc computer company", I found that most, if not all, they offer is out of Germany with the exception of some cable work here in the U.S.  You can check it out for yourself at the websites below.
 
the German company:  https://www.cable-sleeving.com/
the U.S. company:  https://www.titanrig.com/diy-modding/cable-sleeving-supplies/sleeving/mdpc-x-cable-sleeving.html
 
Good luck.
 
 

XT66 = XsunaTera66 my in game username.

The time it took to read the prize packages he didn't win shouldn't have counted against his two hours. I say he had about 30 seconds to spare.
 
Given the time window I expected there to be more "issues" to track down. My strategy would've been to take the CMOS battery out, reseat everything, put the battery back in, and attempt a boot, but that's just me playing Monday morning quarterback.

Hello everyone! 
This is my first post on here, even though I've been a lurker for a few years.
 
I usually don't have time watch the WAN show live, but on Christmas eve 2021 I had time off work and and after taking an accidental nap after dinner I couldn't fall asleep so I decided to catch the WAN show live, instead of listening to it at work later like I always do. It's on at 00:30 my time (when they're not late) so I'm rarely up at the same time it's live.
Anyway, in that show they mentioned a limited time only mouse pad, a white one, from a series they called GPU Wasteland. They also talked about how horribly it'd last since it's white, and said the sample they had was already looking pretty bad from coffee stains and such.
 
I, however, really liked the design and wanted one. I am a car mechanic and white fabrics usually don't mix well with mechanics so I decided to get two for the sole purpose of being able to compare the one I use, with a new one to see how dirty it is really and if I can get it looking like new when it eventually does get dirty. For the first year at least I wasn't going to clean it unless I absolutely had to just to see how dirty it gets in one year.
 
So, how dirty does a white deskpad get in one year (and two months)? When using it daily, it didn't really look like it was getting that dirty. But after a full year of use it had gotten pretty bad. Note that I do not drink coffee and any drinks I bring to the computer are in a can or a bottle, so coffee stains or spills are something I don't have to worry about.
 
It doesn't really look that bad at first...

 
But then compared with a new one it really shows how dirty it had gotten

 
So I took it the shower to clean it, and after soaking it with hot water it becomes much more apparent how dirty it is

 
To clean it I used detergent powder and a wet wash cloth to scrub it

 
And in less than 10 minutes, I could tell that it worked perfectly. Minimal effort and looks completely clean

 
And after a day of letting it dry, I put it back looking like new

 
And to prove I didn't just wet the new one and then put it on the desk, here's two pictures to compare the new and used one after cleaning

 

 
I am genuinely surprised at how well a white deskpad holds up and how easy it was getting it looking back like new. I had expected it to be stained beyond saving by the one year mark and was even going to buy the northern lights pad when I started using the 2nd one, but looks like I'll be getting many more years of use out of this one. I am however not going to wait another year to clean it the next time, that was strictly done for testing purposes.

It's been a while since I posted this, and wanted to give an update. I finally got it sprayed. I originally wanted it wrapped, but there were a few reasons not to.

The main one was the fact I went with different bumpers + sideskirts, I wanted the M sport ones, and they are almost impossible to get second handed, but there are great replicas for these cars. They however only have primer, and reputable wrappers told me that you don't really want to wrap on that. So if I needed to get it all sprayed, I figured I might as well look into getting it all sprayed, especially since then you get the inside of the doors etc all done as well. Basically unless you start stripping the car or look inside the engine bay, you won't see it's original colour.
 
Aside from the aforementioned parts, I also added a spoiler, got new side blinkers (smoked LED), gloss black grill and mirror caps. 
I'm gonna get the chrome around my windows wrapped gloss black, painting just wasn't an option, gonna get 18 inch OEM BMW wheels, and paint them gloss black as well, and gonna replace the tips of my exhaust, they just don't look that great anymore. I also got a front spoiler, but that will be placed underneath soon, gonna be fairly simple. It's about accent, I do not want to lower my car, especially not where I live. And yes it will lower it by about 1cm in the middle of the bumper (which is the mostly likely part to get damaged with speedbumps - though I've never had that issue so far with this car)
Inside I do want to wrap the trim pieces, once I get in a wrapping shop, I will see if they got something that closely matches the car, and get that for the inside. That I will definitely do myself.
 
So it's a work in progress still, but work and investment wise, I'd say I'm about 80% done.
 

 
Got pretty much completely stripped, which was apparently quite difficult because a lot of the rubbers are glued to the car, due to it being a convertible.
 

 
They did primer, white basecoat, 3 layers of yellow, because it's a tough colour to get an even finish. Then 2 layers of clear.
 

 

 
I goes from a bright yellow with a tint of orange, to something much darker depending on the light.

I've driven it twice now, and man I got a lot of attention. What's the great part is that most people tell me they would never get a yellow car, and my colleagues saying they didn't know what to expect, but they all love how it came out, that if you go yellow, this is the one.

This is btw Atacama Gelb/Yellow which was a specialty colour for the BMW Z4 like 10 years ago.

https://diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com/tutorials/how-to-interpret-graphs/frequency-response/ is a good guide for mapping frequency response graphs to subjective impressions. Keep in mind when viewing graphs that different test rigs can produce significantly different measurements. Similarly, especially in the low bass and high treble, measurements may not tell the whole story because the shape of the listener's head and ears can have a significant effect on the sound they hear.
 
If you to be able to intuitively make these connections yourself, or if you want to be able to produce rough frequency response graphs by ear, check out Harman's listener training software: http://harmanhowtolisten.blogspot.com/2011/01/welcome-to-how-to-listen.html. It has you listen to music with certain frequency ranges boosted or attenuated, and practice matching the sound you hear to the correct graph.
 
AutoEQ has a nice index of graphs here: https://github.com/jaakkopasanen/AutoEq/blob/master/results/INDEX.md. For pure frequency response, oratory1990 and Crinacle are the measurements that are most applicable to most listeners since they use the test rigs most standardized to the average human; Reference Audio Analyzer is the least applicable. The red line in the graphs represents the difference between the measurement and "flat", and is the one you would compare to the frequency response guide.
 
Depending on where you get your measurements, they may have a different idea of what neutral ought to be. Whenever I'm dealing with an unfamiliar source, I usually compare the measurements of the headphones I'm interested in to the same tester's measurements of the HD650 (which, at least to me, are a good neutral reference in the mids and treble). Even then, I often have to mentally adjust one of the graphs up or down because the tests were not properly volume-matched.
 
 
The above works for headphones, but there isn't really anything similar for DACs or Amps because the measured differences between those usually aren't nearly as significant, especially between well-designed products.
 
There are a few other types of graphs that can correspond with things we hear (for instance, soundstage), but they aren't as significant as frequency response, and are also much harder to explain.

Good eye. I don't know what connector that is but the whole connector looks shifted one set to the left.
 
Edit: Well it looks like it's an MSI B550 Gaming Gen3 and if it is then that's just a USB connector. But the connectors on the far right in that image are the front panel connectors which also look improperly connected.
 
I'd just make sure those connectors are in the right spots and that the power switch connector is properly connected to the power switch pins. It also looks like your reset switch and HDD LED connectors on the bottom are one pin to the right of where they should be. It might not make a difference but you might as well give it a shot anyway.

Do you have this connected properly? why do we see one unused pin ?
 

Jake and Linus' father-son relationship would get out of hand very quickly if there was a true "fan-fiction" forum.