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I have encountered this issue a couple times during my travels. First thing you need to know about computers, is that they are like like people. You think you may have the flu, so you take medicine for that. But you're still sick, see the doctor and BOOM! Turns out you have AIDS. Point is, computers can give symptoms that may point to one thing, but is actually another. Back to your issue. It may be possible that its the motherboard. Do you see any swollen or leaking capacitors? But since the system works for a short time when uninstalling and re-installing the RAM, does point to another possibility. The PSU may be defective. If it is defective, chances are that it damaged components on the motherboard that handles power. So I recommend testing the PSU before replacing the motherboard. Because if you don't, you may find yourself in the same situation again. Also, I do recommend acquiring software such as PC Doctor that can run full testing on every component. It would give you a better idea on what may be failing and where to narrow your search on. Worse case scenario is that the CPU is defective. But pray that it isn't. On another note. For a issue like this. It's cool that you gave system specs. But you should also provide clear photos of the internals to better help us see what is going on inside physically.

Thank You! Not sure why I couldn't find information about this unit and features for the past couple days. Probably because this tech is no longer relevant or something. I don't know.

When it comes to TV's/Monitors, there are a few things you need know. Some are indeed important specs, others are pretty much based on personal opinion/preference. Important Spec's Resolution (720p, 1080p, 2K, 4K, 8K, etc). Generally you will spend more on decent TV's that are capable of higher resolutions. Before buying a high resolution TV, ask yourself this. Do you currently own or have the funds to buy media equipment within the first month of buying your TV, that will fully utilize your TV's highest resolution capabilities? Because honestly, there are few things on the market (Streaming devices (which require good bandwidth for streaming 4K), Blue-ray players, Movies, Videos, etc) that are capable of playing video at full 4K or higher. You're looking at roughly $200+ per device that can do true 4K or higher playback. Keep in mind, 4K+ upscaling and true 4K+ are not the same what so ever. Also, majority of TV stations are only HD (1080p). Unless you pay extra on your cable bill for 4K. But even at that, most stations just upscale their content to 4K. Refresh Rates, this can make or brake not only resolution but viewing experience as well. Refresh rates come in 60Hz, 120Hz, & 240Hz. pairing the wrong Refresh Rate with your resolution will cause issues like tearing and blurring. For example let say that you bought a 4K TV running at 60Hz. Its good for watching basic movies no problem. But if you decided to watch a movie with a lot of action (fast moving scenes), sports or video games. You'll indeed encounter seeing motion blur and/or tearing on the screen. That is because the TV cannot keep up with refreshing the screen. I say at any resolution, 120Hz Refresh Rate is a good sweet spot. HDR is another must, if I do say so myself. It does make a difference by providing better images. Bringing out colors more and cleaner looking blacks. Almost a true representation of the object in real life. Like looking through a f**king window! Personal Preference Trust Your Eyes! The other features on TV's that gives you some kind of ratio or scoring ratings is total BS. That is all advertising gimmicks. Use your eyes because your eyes don't lie. If some TV's look better and clearer than others, that's because it is. Means there is better tech used in that TV to display a better image. Smart TV's. Personally I don't vouch for any TV with built-in smart features (Internet, Streaming, etc). Here is why. TV's come with only one CPU/Processor. Majority of that processing power is being used to display images (Handling resolution, refresh rates and so forth). Throwing in smart features will only further stress the processor. Because now it has to do two different work loads, each are equally demanding. You ever notice that when you are at Best Buy, they only play pre-recorded demos and never show the smart features? That's because they don't want you to see how much the TV lags and unresponsive it gets when using the smart features. If you want to stream content on your TV, buy a dedicated media streamer (Apple TV, Roku, Amazon, Chromecast, etc) Now the whole Best Buy thing. Being a former Repair Tech for Geek Squad - Best Buy, I could say some not so color things about the company. Long story. Any who here's the deal. Yes, the TV's on display are set to look extremely well in the sore. However, don't believe other people when they say, "It's a gimmick, the TV's only look good at the store for you to buy them.....this that blah blah blah". When you do get your TV home, get it properly/professionally calibrated for the room/setting that the TV will be in. I guarantee you that if you do, the TV is going to look as good as it did on display. It should go without saying that you would have to pay calibration. Lastly, the most important thing ever. Something that pissed me off about customers when working there. Coverage plans and warranty's. READ THEM! The standard 1yr manufacture warranty only covers defects caused by the manufacture. It is at the manufactures sole discretion to cover any issues. Whether you contacted them directly or went to best buy to create the claim. Mind you, after 15 days you cannot return the TV at best buy. If any issues come up after 15 days, you have to create a claim to get your TV service. That can take weeks for repairs. No, you will not get a replacement or are promised a replacement under any coverage/warranty! Unless you fall within very strict conditions. Now best buy does offer Geek Squad protection plan on TV's. But they do not cover any issues or damage caused by the user, animals or nature. But are worth it. For example, you bought a TV with additional 5yr coverage. Come 4-5yrs later your TV has issues from age. Chances are that there are no replacement parts available for a 5yr old TV and thus cannot be repaired. So under these conditions, your plan allows you to get a brand new replacement. Depending on the situation, you may owe a difference or get refunded the difference. But you would still have to buy a new coverage plan for the new TV. All in all, in the end. Get a reputable brand (sony, samsung, LG) 4K TV with a 120Hz refresh rate and HDR that looks good to you.

Thanks guys. Sorry for the years late reply. Life and Adulting, am I right Anyways, Long story short, it worked out pretty well. Temps are a bit high during various loads. I'm thinking of maybe switching to Silverstone's Milo case. Same form factor, just a tad bigger. Also am looking forward to AMD's new Ryzen APU release. Hopefully they will run cooler and be more powerful.

Hey All, Am having a hell of time trying to find information about a Sony STR-VX6 receiver that I bought earlier today from Goodwill. $20, including speakers. WOOT! Anyways, I'm not an Audiophile, nor am not looking to become one heavily. Just wanted a nice receiver from yesteryear to hook up my cassette player to; listen to FM while working; and possibly add a turntable in the future. I know there are newer equipment out there, that may sound tons better but cost tons too. I just wanted something at a fair price, good quality and sound. That's why I was pretty stoked to find this gem, and in good condition to. Aside from dust. Anywho, being pretty tech savvy. I was able to figure out the majority of its features and the various functions/operations. However, despite my vigorous google search. I was unable to find a User Manual or any info pertaining to the bits of the receiver that I don't know about, or couldn't figure out. I've included some photos, in hopes that someone can better help me out. So here are my following questions. Front What is SUBSONIC? What does it do? What is LOUDNESS? What does it do? What is MM LOAD? What does it do? Back What is that black boomstick looking thing? What does it do? What antenna can I use? Right now the previous owner attached regular speaker wire for the antenna. What is that rake looking symbol located in the antenna area mean? I'm guessing Ground?... What is PRE/POWER? What does it do? And why is there jumpers connecting them? What does the descriptions mean for the AC OUTLET? (Switched 80W MAX, Unswitched 300W MAX) Thanks again for any help/info

Dude you're telling me! How did this get released without any press? Last I heard they were partnering up with coolermaster. What happened with that? Any ways, I've been eyeballing this tech for some time now. I see that they finally released their server model. What about their desktop performance model? @LinusTech when are you guys going to review and stress test this new cooler?!? If their cooler lives up to their claims, oh boy. How awesome would it be to have a air cooler that out performs a AiO water cooler, that is far quieter and smaller!!

You have many options. Assuming you have a little cash to burn. These are the best choices IMO. Macbook Air HP Spectre x360 Surface Pro 3 DELL 7000 Series 2-in-1 Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro All these picks will provide you roughly 6+ hours of normal usage. All ultra-thin and light weight. The Air I believe surpasses a bit better in battery life and harware. Not to mention you can have both OSX and Windows installed on it at the same time.

As everyone has heard about Fractal Design's new Node 202 pending release. I am going to be one of many who will be doing a build with it. However, the case spec sheet states that it can only accommodate a 56mm tall cooler...WTF right? Cutting it pretty tight there. So the only coolers that I could find that will fit in the case is Scythe & Noctua. So I'm deciding to go with Noctua because it supports a slightly larger fan. But the spec sheet states that the NH-L9a is rated for 65W TDP CPU's. This is where my troubles begin as I've searched high and low, not finding any answer to my question. I will be including in the build an AMD A-10 7870K that has a TDP of 95W (I DO NOT CARE FOR ANY OPINION ON CPU CHOICE!). If I were to change out the stock low-pro 14mm thick fan, and installed the thicker 25mm NF-A9 fan. Will that increase my headroom enough to properly run a 95W CPU? Again, I've looked though all the videos and articles trying to find the answer to this. But have turned up NULL. All I can find is people regurgitating whats on Noctua's product page. Cannot find one person that has tested and taken this bad boy to its limits. So I am hoping that someone on here had been curious and ballsy enough to push this cooler to its limits, that can provide a definite answer to my question. Thank You Everyone

Im on Verizon FiOS, MOCA network. Even if I did go through the trouble of replacing it. I still cannot hard line to it due to location issues between the devices. If I could, I would get my ass in the attic to route new lines. But I can't modify my house.

2 in 1's are good for those who don't do a whole lot with very few devices and are on the cheap. But if you're the one to have many connected devices and use quite a bit of band-width. Then having a separate modem and router is the best reliable choice. Also the specs that are in 2 in 1's are very weak and not so reliable parts. They tend to not handle the work load very well. So I say it doesn't hurt to invest in good hardware for a proper network setup.

Having a hard time making a decision on this one. Due to some restrictions, I am unable to hardline to my router (ISP provided). So I was thinking about getting a PCIe wifi adapter. From either ASUS, TP-LINK, AMPED, etc. However, the reviews on these adapters are sub par. Users having issues with the software/drivers, signal disconnects/derogation, and/or hardware failure/compatibility. So I started thinking about getting another router to wirelessly bridge to my ISP router, and hardline my computer into that. I do know that going with the second router route will be more expensive. Im leaning towards more the second router path as I feel it would be more reliable, compared to getting an adapter that may or may not be reliable. Anyone have any input on this? Or has been in the same scenario as I? Thanks