Ken7331

Here is a pic from about 5 months ago when I tore down my loop to mount my gpu vertical. Prior to that it had been running for about a year with some mayhems additive. When I tore the loop down and rebuilt it I had a white film buildup on everything and I wasn't sure if it was the nickel+silver kill coil or just plasticizer leaching from the tubes. It didn't gunk up my system really, no performance difference but I still ran mayhems blitz through it just to be safe. I also removed the coils and stupidly forgot to get another additive for the water so I just used the liquid utopia that came with the primochill LRT tubes I'm using. Also I have access to extremely strong bases such as sodium hydroxide however I think I'd rather attempt it with something milder such as vinegar, maybe soak it for a whole day checking on it every half hour or so. 5 months ago: Today:

I have nickel ek blocks on my cpu and gpu and after the first year of running my system they have started to look like they're either slightly corroded or the nickel plating is flaking off, not sure. Either way I was wondering if anyone had ever attempted to soak a block in vinegar or citric acid solution to just remove the nickel plating in order to just have a straight copper block. Would this turn out looking like crap or create a high risk of a leak?

I wasn't worried about the double wire method, my concern was whether it was necessary to use different gauge wires for the double wire. I didn't know if the psu required different gauges for there to be a difference in resistance to sense. It seems like if they were the same it would possibly cause issues with it sensing due to there being no resistance difference between the two wires.

That's where my confusion was. From what I had read in a different thread it seemed to imply the psu utilizes the difference in resistance of the two wires for sensing. This lead me to believe it was maybe necessary to keep them different and that using the same gauge for both may somehow cause it not to sense properly. Thanks for the help.

So there's no fuctional purpose to them using different gauges for the double wires? Is that just for fitting the wires into the connectors?

I am in the process of creating custom sleeved cables for my evga 850 g2 and I have been searching everywhere for the answer to this question with no success. Some of the double wires for the 24 pin power connector are 18 awg and some are 22. I thought I remember at some point reading something about the psu using the difference in resistance of the two differently gauged wires to monitor/regulate voltage. Will using different or even all the same gauge wire affect this? I have a ton of 16 gauge wire and just ordered some 18 and 22 just in case I need to replicate it exactly however I'd rather use the thicker gauge wire if it will be better (even just theoretically I know the difference probably wouldn't be noticeable in real world performance).

I'll just preface this with my setup: CPU Intel Core i5 4690K Motherboard Asus Maximus Hero VII RAM G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) GPU EVGA GTX980ti SSC+ Case Phanteks Enthoo Primo Storage Samsung 850 EVO 250GB SSD / WD 1tb Black / WD 2tb Black PSU EVGA SuperNOVA G2 850 Cooling EK Supremacy Evo / 480 EK XE Radiator / MCP655 Pump / FrozenQ 250mm Reaction Reservoir / 4x Gentle Typhoon fans So I just recently put together my first custom loop and everything has gone great except my fan set up. I bought a Silverstone PWM Fan Hub and quickly realized I had mistakenly ordered two non pwm gentle typhoons (I already previously had 2 of the pwm version). No big deal, I thought, I'd just plug them into my other fan control hub I have for non pwm fans and everything would be fine. Wrong. I hadn't used the fan control software that came with my motherboard in at least a year and upon opening it now, it won't control anything. The included fan control software is their Fan Xpert 3 (bundled into their AISuite program) and previously it seemed to work flawlessly. I have tried every combination of connections between fans/hubs/headers. I know I have to leave the non pwm fans off the header on the silverstone hub or otherwise it will force all the fans to run at 100% but even with just a single pwm fan connected to it, Asus' fan Xpert won't let me control it at all. I have another fan hub for non-pwm fans mounted in a disc drive bay with a touchscreen but I really don't want to run all of my fans to it because then I'll either have to manually control them or trust and try to mount its thermal sensor to my cpu/waterblock. Also, speedfan doesn't appear to work with my motherboard. I've searched and haven't found anyone that has accomplished it, when you open the dropdown box for the fans, none of the options do anything. I've searched and searched and am at a complete loss for wtf to do to control my fans. I've even uninstalled/reinstalled AISuite and FanXpert to no avail and have found no troubleshooting solutions that work for it either.

It's called the "turbo button" but it's really just a button that changes the refresh rate from 60->120->144

So I just got mine in and everything looks great, there's little-to-no backlight bleed, colors look perfect, etc. However, the turbo button doesn't appear to be working properly and I'm not sure if I'm just being dumb and overlooking something really obvious but it only seems to be working intermittently. Sometimes I'll press it and it'll work immediately, then other times I press it and it will only change the refresh rate once, or not at all and I can't seem to reproduce any sort of circumstance in which it will or won't work, it's just random. I even manually installed the drivers for it from Asus' website like this guy who was having the same issue with his pg278q, but it hasn't seemed to do anything for my pg279q. Now I'm stuck debating whether I need to RMA or wait and see if a firmware update/fix comes out, it's so new I can't seem to find anyone else with the same problem.

Sorry about that, here's the dump file https://www.dropbox.com/s/wj3ibnp5qxs2k4a/030615-4960-01.dmp?dl=0

Here's the dump file and the error code was STOP: 0x00000124 (0x0000000000000000, 0xFFFFFA800D788028, 0x00000000BF800000, 0x0000000000200401)

I just recently built a computer and everything has been running smoothly and I've even gamed on it a bit up until today. I tried installing bitdefender and my system bluescreened. My first thought was that maybe it had to do with my tweaking settings to optimize things for my ssd (disabling hibernation, indexing on the drive, and page file etc.) and one of the things that seemed may have been off is what I was reading in an article suggested moving the windows temp files to a different drive so as to minimize unnecessary repeated writes to the drive and so I changed the filepath for the Temp and Tmp folders to a folder on my 1tb western digital drive. I changed the filepath back to what it was and went to download windows sdk for the debugging tools to read the dump file from the bluescreen and installation of that fails every time. Any ideas?

Thanks, that did the trick, booted right up after making the stick with rufus.

Yes I have set it to boot via the stick in the bios, however I haven't flagged anhything in the mbr for it to boot? All I did was load the .iso to the stick with WinUSB (I also tried unebootin first and that didn't work either). Also I have tried both 2.0 and 3.0 ports.

Here is my system: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/319565-gaming-pc-build/ I've read around about gigbyte boards having trouble recognizing/booting from usb sticks but I can't find anything that will work for mine. I have yet to install any OS on the system and am just trying to get Windows 7 on it with a a bootable thumb drive (Sandisk Cruzer 32 gig). I've been tinkering around with the settings in the bios but nothing seems to work.