Diablonar

Second this. Wanna know.

I can only see Teslasuit, Tesla Elec Technology and Tesla Wireless Device Inc., I can't see Tesla Smart or TESMART. EDIT: going to their website, they're listed below as Tesla Elec Technology, so you might be right. I'll order one and see.

Hey! So some backstory: So I'm looking to get a proper HDMI Switch so I can switch whichever console I want my capture card to capture. Currently I'm using a 5-input 1-output cheapo switch with a remote, that automatically detects whichever device suddenly turns on and switches to it. This is practical, but has lead to severe issues during streams, in particular the PS2 game Klonoa seems to stop sending signals whenever it's about to enter and exit a loading screen, causing at some point the HDMI Switch to simply switch to "nothing". My capture card just simply isn't receiving anything at all, after enough rapid switching. The only remedy was unplugging the Switch and using the cables directly into the capture card. So now I need one that can only manually switch, or at least disable auto-switching, with as many inputs as possible. I also capture my PC's graphics output this way, and wouldn't mind futureproofing a little if I can get a Switch that supports a higher HDMI standard and lets me at some point stream or upload HDR content in 4K 144hz. What I found So essentially I looked around eBay and stumbled across this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-In-1-Out-Rack-Mount-Video-Audio-HDMI-Switch-Support-3840-2160-4K/323196318880?hash=item4b400074a0:g:TiEAAOSwIzBaw3iC https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Port-HDMI-2-0-HDTV-4K-60Hz-Switch-with-Audio-Output/323198642355?hash=item4b4023e8b3:g:qGkAAOSw6TRaw35q All my alarm bells went off, considering not only is this the seemingly only Switch on eBay that I could find supporting all those features without being a KVM Switch, but also because the price is extremely low for that featureset. They've got one sale on their profile, and are seemingly as new as from CES 2018. The description of the product claims they had a showing at CES. Problem is, Google seems to yield nothing when I try to figure out what even happened at CES this year. Halp?

Not to necro, but I feel there's important unsaid things here. I have the Vengeance 2100 and have had them for years. You're criticizing the positional audio phenomena and saying it's crap and got crappier, calling it a possible marketing ploy. I couldn't disagree more. The experience has been apparent to me from the moment I correctly configured the headset. I was actually shocked that it wasn't a pure gimmick; even on a youtube review, I could hear that the guy was talking from behind the mic and that that's why his audio was bad. The guesswork of these headsets is phenomenal from a Stereo Source. When it comes to positional audio, you can't just "turn on positional audio" and expect it to work. First of all, there's 7.1 mode and stereo mode in "Source Type". I have mine on Stereo Source constantly, and the conversion and guessing to positional audio is great. And that's even without listening to proper 7.1 sources, using the appropriate mode. You also gotta consider that many games do not support 7.1, or simply are not default enabled to. Configure your shit, and that includes any and all parts; Realtek drivers might interfere or switch modes, or Windows sound setups can have it wrongly configured. Many sources are gonna be 2.0 stereo, if not most, so do your research when picking. I hear a lot of worries about G930, which is a bad sign. Will these prevail after potential RMAs? I have issues with my 2100's where the headset sometimes cuts the audio out completely for like 10 seconds, then it returns. It has no impact on actual audio on the PC, and it's recorded via OBS fine; it's just that I can't hear it. This issue has become very rare over time. The headset also struggles hardcore to maintain a connection if I'm not at ideal distance or angle from the PC. If I go behind a single wall, it tends to cut completely. But sometimes, it'll stay perfectly clear. I've got the rare issue that if I disconnect the charger when it's green (fully charged), the green charging light will stay on and the entire headset basically won't respond or turn on. I have to wait a veeeery long while, and when the green light is finally off, I can charge and turn it on just fine. Maybe it has to run out of battery and shut itself off.

This looks like it'd do better in a properly dark, smaller room with a wall dedicated to it.

Such a baiter. What do you mean with folding?

Considering it's mostly efficiency optimizations, allowing to stuff more things in, and the fact that AMD just released their Pro Duo, it's not unlikely that nVidia might pull off a Dual-GPU setup for the next Titan, and/or the one after. In which case, I don't want it. I've had enough experience with Dual-GPU (my 2x GTX 690 running in Quad SLI as we speak) to know that I'm not going to do that again anytime soon. I'm honestly not sure if the next Titan will have enough opportunity in the market if it isn't dual gpu. But that's just my thinking right now. Another thing: it's extremely unlikely that you'll need a 16 GB Titan for your 1080p gaming at any time soon. If you go into VR, you might be able to leverage something, but I don't think you'll need 16GB for your daily needs. Stick with the 980 Ti and keep an eye on 1080p benchmarks in the future. You'll probably be fine for quite a few years.

I've been watching comparisons and speculative videos on "GTX 1080". Here's what I've gathered. Please note, all of this is speculative. Nothing is written in stone. 1x 8 Pin power connector. GTX 1080 will be roughly 8 GB of vram. The power of the card might be between a 980 and 980 Ti, closer to the latter. Perhaps a bit less than 980 Ti in terms of certain specs/some horsepower, but efficiency/temps will be better. Depends on what the new architecture will bring. Do I think the 980 Ti is a better purchase? Not necessarily. We don't know pricing yet. GTC will likely show off the new GPU, expect information around May. Some sources say the card might release in April (April 27 is one of the estimated dates), others say in June. I'd honestly wait and see; if there's no info by April 8th, you should be ready to make a purchase. I'm in the same position as you: I wanna upgrade badly, and I won't take the 2nd best alternative. So I'm going Titan X, because I worry that for my use, vram might be a bottleneck. Wait what, you already have a 980 Ti? ..Don't even consider upgrading at this point. Seriously. I might regret it if I buy too early and find out the GTX 1080 is greater than anticipated, but I don't believe that's how they're going to do it. We'll see. If the GTX 1080 is cheaper, it may be more rewarding to SLI those, than to go for a Titan X now and SLI those later. That's why I recommend you wait until there's more info out there. I don't think the benchmarks will stray much from what I said though. If you're gonna keep doing 1080p gaming, I don't think you'll need to upgrade your card at all for a couple of years. So stick with the 980 Ti you got.

Right now it's hard to say, because of a very messy case setup. It seems I wasn't the last person to set this up, now that I think of it. I can't see where all the headers are going without properly taking things apart, which I won't be able to until I fix some other stuff and do the whole thing when installing new fans. All I can properly see is that the back exhaust is connected to the 3rd header. Even that one has been impossible to control in all modes. And since stopping all the fans doesn't work, I'm starting to think it might be my PSU that is so unbareably loud, the one fan I haven't stopped yet. Or perhaps my HDDs? It's a constant loud noise, definitely multiple facets, yet nothing even remotely makes a difference when stopped. Can I even change the PSU's fan myself? Speaking of "which". I had no idea the new GT were different. Here is some interesting information, I'll translate it from my language: Autumn 2013 came the infathomable news. Scythe was going to stop selling the Gentle Typhoon, assumably the best 120mm fan that's ever been made. PC entusiasts plead their prayers. Now the fan is back again. Nidec, the japanese megacorporation that produced the fans, told Scythe in clear text that Gentle Typhoon was a Nidec fan, that Nidec owns all rights, as well as the trademark Gentle Typhoon and they'd do exactly as they wanted. The new Gentle Typhoon fan is, if not possibly even better. It can be used as a PWM fan or a normal fan. If the voltage goes below 10.8V, for example if fan control's utilized, the PWM feature is disabled and it will work like a normal fan. In the area of 10.8-13.2 V it works both like a PWM and a normal fan. Very solid construction with a weight at about 200 grams, almost twice that of "normal" 120mm fans. Very low power consumption compared to its performance, the power consumption is incredibly low at 0.083A with nominal speed 1850 o/min. Andre vifter er ikke engang i nærheten. The enthusiast site www.extremerigs.net has tested the new Gentle Typhoon fan and the result was as expected; Gentle Typhoon is still the king of the hill. Is this legit? I suppose the new version (called Darkside IIRC) is possibly better, having a weird way of working? So after repeated freezing and having to boot windows manually, POST tests failing (Yes, I'm not kidding) and having to redo BIOS settings due to weird errors, I tried to uninstall AI Suite. It throws me an error per app it has to uninstall, and after each of them (except the first one) fails, it says "I'm done, wanna reboot?" ..I'm not sure what's gonna happen next time I reboot. In BIOS I had to set whether a fan was PWM or DC - setting the CPU fan wrong resulted in boot showing a blinking underscore forever. So how does this work on a fan that apparently is both? Do I just set it to PWM because "It has those capabilities and a 4-pin connector" and rely on it not crashing when the fan stops doing things like a PWM? I've set Q-Fan mode back on, with "Standard" mode on each alternative. I'm scared to change them without knowing what to set them to. I don't know if they're required for, or conflict with, manual control in software. Anyone know? My motherboard is ASUS Rampage V Extreme. Update: Warning to all users of ASUS Mobos. Installing AI Suite 3 again to remove it? Nope, freezes at 0%. Ai Suite also had caused windows not to recognize USB 3 speeds for devices, so my capture card won't work. All my windows animations are now slowmo. Restarting fixed it, gotta uninstall 2 modules at a time or else malfunction, POST tests freezes at "press delete for settings", and consistently my mouse needs to be replugged in Windows, as it isn't working otherwise. Oh yeah, came home today and screen's black, had to reboot on the button. If I go for software, I'll use SpeedFan. Otherwise, I'll likely get a manual fan controller.

Hmm.. I don't think I can mount my GPU fan as you suggested. Pretty sure the watertube is too short to reach the case bottom. Which of the GT's do you recommend I get, what RPM? I suppose I should get low-noise-adapters, rubber mounts, pads and the lot from Noctua for anti-vibration, all at once? Not entirely sure how the motherboard would deal with a fan that says "I'm a PWM! Just kidding, I'm a DC. Nope, I'm a PWM! What's that, you turned down the speed? I'm just a DC." I installed AI Suite a few days ago to make my fans work. Big mistake. I've tried everything, disabling and enabling BIOS Q-Fan (not sure which is required), setting the modes to manual in BIOS.. But AI Suite will not let me control the fans, and one of them even appeared to have "0" RPM on every percentage except max, which was max. Most fans were never controllable, except one I'm not even sure exists.

"They might not be as quiet as Noiseblockers, Noctuas, or BeQuiets! at the lowest end but perform very well at a very quiet noise level. " I'm confused.. by "lowest end", do you mean at low RPM versions? eLoops are not low-end fans as far as I can tell. According to Paul's Hardware, showing the fan and its insides a few seconds from here, the card has its fan hardwired in and cannot have it removed normally. When seeing your picture, it looks like the fan wire has been cut (there's a rubber sleeve on it?) but I'd like to take a closer look. Do you have a link to the rest? I've not been able to see how it looks without the black box that Paul's Hardware shows, google be damned, and if it simply is a matter of unscrewing the black "box" and swapping out a fan plug, I'll be more than happy to do this. I don't even care if it voids a warranty in theory, they won't be able to tell if I just put it back on again, unless there's a seal somewhere. I've also sent tweets to Gigabyte_UK and Gigabyte_USA, and their "lack of elaboration" seems to speak negatively about this so far. The GTs are seeming more and more a safe choice here.. The eLoops are regarded as very poweful and silent Push fans, but as you say, filters might cause a slight issue. Other sources I just found commented that there might be a slight hum to that scenario. And since every single use case in my case will be involving a filter, and sometimes even a radiator, the eLoop is a gamble on whether or not a filter makes a noticeable difference. I don't think it does, but I don't see much reason to take that risk. Unless returns are easy with my retailer, that is. Which they are.. Damnit My retailer sells the eLoop for $22.84, but it does not sell the Gentle Typhoon at all. It's the one retailer where I can literally just walk up to their office and return something. Since I know I'll need the GT anyway for top rad, I'll start ordering those. Not sure what to do about the eLoop yet, that filter is all that's puzzling me. It's very fine-grained, it seems, which I would think is better.

I see.. For others too to learn from (if correct), here's what I gather so far (thanks for the info): Getting PWM fans is risky due to possibility of clicking, as well as fans performing poorly when used at speeds that may not be optimal. I thus need to know what fans are known to be okay at PWM. But in return, I get granularity and can choose between performance and noise just as I please, provided that the fan in question deals with PWM well. High-RPM PWM fans will still not be able to go as low as their Low-RPM PWM counterparts, however. Just because it's PWM does not mean it allows 100% precision control, and the minimum RPM it can run at, rises when the maximum rises. I also keep hearing that some fans are very noisy when placed horizontally, compared to vertically. This is a problem for me because I'm gonna have two or three of them like that. I don't know how the GT perform there, eLoop are documented to have no issues. There are all sorts of factors that make choosing a fan difficult. And most "good" comparisons online are never inside an actual case, not even with and without a radiator. Sometimes they don't compare the fan to another, and since everyone's ambient noise and setups are different, you never know what this translates to. A mic recording 30cm away is not the same as me listening to it through the case, or even on a different mic. Btw, here's an interesting sentence, one of those that perpetuate the whole "No control without PWM" thing: "About the fans I meant that to go for high speed PWM models because when the ambient temperature is low then the motherboard will keep the fans running slow and quiet and when the ambient temperature is high then the motherboard will increase the speed and the system will continue to work without a problem." I've also heard that DC voltage control via software was not possible on old motherboards, meaning PWM was the only software way to go. Comparison eLoop JayzTwoCents seems to think the fan is excellent and super powerful, demonstrating its prowess. This megathread and others praise it to be among the best and sometimes *the* best.. I also love the way it looks, and have the impression it might be the most powerful fan of its silent category, within bounds of reason of course. From what I can tell, the eLoops have a more revolutionary design, and more potential prowess than GT, with better bearings, higher airflow design, advertised horizontal function etc, and I've never heard about annoying whine-sounds or anything worrying when it comes to the eLoop, except for the following: due to their specialized design, will only work as either airflow or Push-oriented fans. This indicates the fan is highly specialized for one thing (Which is good), but completely incompatible with another (Bad). Any use of Pull-configs should therefore go to GT. If eLoop Pull-turbulence can be compensated for by buying a fan shroud and/or a gasket, and it works silently in that config, then that'll probably make them #1. I'm willing to spit in that money if the fan is going to be better, but I have no reason to assume it'd work. Unless I get more information on shroud and gasket compensation, I will NOT be using eLoop in Pull. I won't compromise performance. They'd probably look beautiful as front intakes though, except.. air filter. Heh. Which brings up another question: Will the fine-grained air filter, if placed before the eLoop, cause slight whining akin to a radiator? I can't imagine it'd be enough to be audible, but.. Would it be ideal to look for a filter that can be mounted on the inside somehow? This is a really minor worry, I don't really think filters will cause a noticeable problem. At any rate, this fan comes out as the "top performer within Push configs" for me right now, but I'm very on the fence. I could be dead wrong. I know that the eLoops in some tests were extremely silent even at full speed (depending on model), but this varies greatly. GT GT are sorta "Great all-round" silence/performance fans that should satisfy most, in most scenarios, with a whine depending on factors. They're top tier stuff, and they probably have more consistent happy customers than other fans. They are also, unlike the eLoop, actually compatible with any kind of configuration, and are among the straight-up best noise-to-performance winners in the class. If I choose to go with them, I don't know if they're gonna be as decent as the eLoops in silence levels, but I know that the chances are large that I'll have little to no issue. On the other hand, there are similar great results for the GT, and you seem secure that the GT's are great and possibly better. I've compared EKWB Vardar to GT's and found the results inconsistent, just like anything else I compare to eachother really. Some recent videos suggest that GT can sometimes have a whine, that, while the dB level isn't very high, is potentially more annoying. Though I recognize is not the case for everyone. The issue with GT is that I can't accurately measure how good it is. Feedback is very inconsistent, some report whine, some nothing, and other fans that are similar, seem to perform.. similarly. I can't even tell if it beats out the EKWB Vardar. But I think it does, especially at the right RPMs. Together I've compared EKWB Vardar, GT, eLoop, Noctua, Silverstone, all sorts of things. And of course, not a single fan consistently wins. But the three that seem like the top right now, are the GT, SW2 and eLoop. The link you posted where the GT beat out the eLoop didn't seem to make the eLoop look that much worse (A single dB, yes, but there were cases where the eLoop won, too, it had 2 green numbers close to eachother?) and so it might as well be irrelevant at that point, if I'm reading it correctly. What did bum me out, though, is where the PWM version of eLoop scored significantly lower than the B12-2. I hope this is just some experiences and that it won't reflect mine, or at least that it's not that much louder; Having more granularity of control sounds like a great thing, but otherwise, I'll be willing to use DC if it makes a noticeable difference in sound. Some other reviews I've seen don't place much of a difference unless the RPM goes high up; in which case, I'll be fine with a tiny bit of noise when gaming at max anyway. As long as it's noise I can reduce with noisefiltering for the mic. If I buy eLoop, I think I'll be either going for B12-2, or B12-PS. Those are the only ones that seem to be able to go to high RPMs while also being silent fans. As for the GT, some model between 1200 and 1450. Anything above scares me, anything less probably won't be able to deal with intense workloads in an otherwise hot room. As for the rear exhaust, if I get the 980 Ti Waterforce, I will not be able to swap out its fan without wire cutting, breaking its warranty, so I'll have to use stock for that. Ugh. Here's my current suggestion for a build: ( https://imgur.com/KJsTlPa ) The dark green color on the bottom intake fan indicates that the component is optional, perhaps needed to create slight positive airflow. The same color on the PSU indicates that the PSU can be turned upside-down, sucking air from the inside of the case. Don't think this would help at all. Green colors = Intake Red colors = Exhaust Blue colors = Components that cannot be removed or exchanged for another The PSU is just blue because, it's neither intake nor outtake. Brown is a nasty color, so.. it stays blue even though I *could* buy a new PSU. But the GPU fan is obviously not changeable.

I see. I'd think the notion of needing PWM comes from the way things are phrased in most videos about the topic, as this was what I gathered from it earlier. I'm anticipating that since I have my PCs in a very hot room (It can easily get up to 22-26C in here, due to factors) and my PC is always running browsers and other background stuff at minimum when not rendering video and such, I will never be able to turn the fans on their lowest settings while maintaining good temperatures. Taking this into account, where do you think the different fans would stand for this use? Thus for my Radiator use, would you place GT top, eLoop second and SW2 third? Would I even notice the difference in the end? I even see "Nidec Servo" gentle typhoons. Are those the same? Also, you never mentioned how GT perform specifically in Pull on radiator, compared to the others? If I do order a GT, will the RPM version matter? I would think that higher RPM fan just means "more compatibility with high RPM if you want to, for an extra dollar", but in tests people claim that the mid-range RPM ones fare better. I don't know if this is because they test them all at max RPM, or if they sound the same on the same RPM levels. Apparently in the test you linked, the PWM version of eloop didn't fare so well, so I'm wondering if the same is the case with the different RPM models.

That chart is confusing and I can't possibly read it (repeated tries). But it seems the PWM version sucks while the 12-2 version rocks. My impression is that you cannot control DC fans with most software, you have to use either a physical controller or the BIOS settings - but, sometimes, an app can do that for you (Like ASUS Fan Xpert 3 for ASUS Motherboards) - am I correct? "The SP120 Quiet Edition is a middle-of-the-road performer though we weren't expecting much from it, seeing as it's a specialized product designed for cooling radiators." From their text, it sounds like they tested open-air or airflow, which means little to my use. I'm gonna be using at least 3 of mine on radiators, and there will be filters infront of every intake/outtake. I'm also thinking that the front/side HDD fans (the default ones that come on the Storm Trooper case) are gonna deal with obstructions, since there's the harddrive cage there that I'm not sure if I can remove portions of without removing all my drives too. Due to this, I figured the optimal build would be eloop for the rads, and SW2 for the (if any) remaining unobstructed paths. Does this sound optimal? If the PWM versions of Eloop are bad even in radiator use, I might just have to swap for other fans.. If GT is good against rads, it might win. Since I got Youtube partnered, I've been using Premiere Pro a lot, as well as streaming + recording in different resolutions at the same time while gaming on max settings. This means my workloads, even at nighttime, can be demanding, when I render out the videos as I sleep. These uses mean PWM is important. If I turn the fans too low and forget to turn them back up, that'd cause heat issues. I don't wanna have to adjust the knobs all day, I just want a system that's silent when it can. I'm not ruling out knobs just yet, but I am sceptical. Of course, if Fan Xpert can control DC fans and adjust them automatically the same way as PWM, using the volts instead.. Then I'd have no issue. But is that possible?

As far as rads go, I plan to have a graphics card with liquid cooling installed. So both the rear exhaust (1x 140mm) and the top exhaust (2x 120mm) will be radiator. I considered Pull for all radiators because it's easier to clean like shown in Linus' video - and it's a better idea if I'm using the nasty-looking NF-F12's, cause I can hide them. I believe all my fans are connected to the normal headers on my motherboard.. I still can't control them with ASUS Xpert Fan 3. Not a single one. Nor the GPU. Missing driver? I've been going back and forth, reviews and threads both on this forum, overclockers, as well as youtube videos giving mixed results (of course). Most of the time it's open-aired testing (garbage) and sometimes it's in-case testing that's not comprehensive enough. Noctua just got murdered here and here. And for some reason, NB eloops seem to be undisputed by anyone; apparently they're top tier fans no matter who you ask. Which is good, because I love their design above any other fan I've seen. I love it so much; but there's one problem. They make heavy-duty turbulence in the sucking-in part, in addition to sticking out a bit, so even if you use the needed gasket, Pull configs are terribly noisy. One person says that putting NB Multiframe fans horizontally increases noise dramatically, I'm not sure how relevant this is for eloop.. I would love to have Push configs, but cleaning the radiator is then made a lot harder. Especially since these fans are designed in a way that makes it impossible to clean it through the fans, I'll have to blow it into the case and then out again. I guess it could be worth the extra blowing though. People give me the impression (Except one post) that they're good for radiator action as well, can you confirm? Eloop's site says no such thing, doesn't specify if they're optimized for static pressure or airflow, it just pretends they're "good for everyone". So far it sounds like using eloops for my entire case would be better performance and noise-wise. If I buy them all 4-pin, I should be able to control them as well. Now I'm wondering: Will buying the highest RPM eloop yield the same amount of silence if I run it in the same RPM as I would the others? If so, I wouldn't see a reason not to just get the best one. But I've gotten the impression that some high-RPM fans are overall more noisy at the same levels.