Falkentyne

This is why I hate tempered glass side panels. Acrylic panels might scratch much easier but you won't have a glass accident randomly which HAS happened (I remember one user recently had the TG panel shatter by putting it on his chair). I bought my Fractal 7 XL with a solid side panel precisely because of that. If I want a TG panel later I can just order it from them when the human malware allows supply to start coming through.

Oh you mean that "American Standard" toilet paper so famous for being all over high schools in the 1980's, that felt almost like notebook paper, right? (Universities currently have much better stuff than that, probably on par with the generic "Simply Done" brand).

What speed is that CPU running at? Because if that's 4.6 ghz and 1.012v, that's why it crashed.

This is a driver problem on your system, and driver problems tend to be anywhere between difficult to impossible to fix without a very experienced person around to help you. Did you try uninstalling all of the Xbox and/or bluetooth USB drivers from device manager first, and then reinstall them? The problem is clearly something you had or did on your windows install. Of course the nuclear option is to just reinstall windows.

That is a fan controller transistor that you blew. Transistors marked NIK PA102F06 represent linear voltage regulators. They are used for voltage control on FAN headers. https://axe.rs/hardver/maticne-ploce/asus-b85-vanguard/7/

Assuming that board uses an AMI Bios. But there may be non standard beep codes the ODM puts in also.

His stove is broken. Your only alternative is a clean crucible suspended above a fireplace, or a microwave. But microwaves are NOT silent unless you buy a good one. So choose kettle or microwave.

One beep followed by two short beeps is no RAM detected or RAM error One continuous beep followed by three short beeps is video card error. 5 long beeps=RAM training failed. On some motherboards, the video card error will be at a different pitch than RAM.

Fractal Design 7 XL with solid black side panel (muh RGB), Seasonic PX-1000, Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 (muh RGB)

Icegiant Prosiphon Elite Or a 360 AIO. Or for the rest of us, not running 250 watt stress tests? A 9900k will never run that hot if you don't pour unrealistic loads on it. Definitely not during any game, and that includes Battlefield 5. BF5 does not put a 100% load on all 16 threads. No game does. There's absolutely ZERO reason to run small FFT FMA3 prime95 29.8 build 6 on your computer unless you have OCD or are just bored. Or unless you want to watch the world burn. Or LinX 0.9.6 35000 sample size (all residuals MUST match). Or Y-cruncher AVX2. Zero. And if the user is someone who needs that kind of stability to pass all three of those worst case torture test, they shouldn't be overclocking past stock in the first place.

What PSU(s)? Did you try clearing the CMOS and switching to another BIOS? What exactly happens when you power on? Do the fans spin at all? If the fans do not spin, that's bad. It means the board is getting standby power but not full power. Did you try the onboard power button on the motherboard and NOT the case power button? Most motherboards have an onboard power button. What happens if you disconnect all of the "Case jumpers" from the onboard jumper block and then try to power on with the onboard power button? Could very well be something that died on the motherboard, unfortunately. If a known working good PSU doesn't work, then your only thing you can do is to take each component off the motherboard and test then in a compatible motherboard (which sucks and can get expensive).

Nitrocellulose based nail polish and Super 33+ tape is what I recommend. Super 33+ tape is good stuff! For extra insurance, I recommend cut-out (in the shape of the cores) case fan filter foam, or air conditioner foam. This is what I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2US/

3200 mhz CAS 14-14-14-34 or 3600 mhz CAS 16-16-16-36 is what you should be looking for. These are guaranteed B-die.

It's possible the pigeon poop under the IHS dried out and you need to just buy a rockitcool '88 delid kit and delid and put on some liquid metal. If for some reason you can't find liquid metal, even Kryonaut works (but won't last long directly on the die). Remember to remove all of the intel black silicone when relidding and if you re-seal, apply four very tiny dabs of RTV silicone in each corner. LM options are Thermalright Silver King and Conductonaut. Another option is to make your own LM if you can buy syringes and needle-nose tips for them (important for application but the tip that comes with Conductonaut fits on standard syringes and actually works better than most needle nose tips). Takes 100 grams of gallium, 40 grams of Indium, 10 grams of Tin, and a crucible, then smelt, melt in the oven, stir and you saved a ton of money. (100 grams of gallium costs about $30, 40 grams of Indium is the most per gram, may cost you about $20 if you shop around, 10 grams of Tin is about $10). That can make 150 grams of Galinstan LM. Buying 150 grams of Conductonaut would cost you >$600, for reference.

Your comment is depressing and makes absolutely NO logical sense. How are people supposed to live off the land if there is no land for them to live off of ? Do you you expect everyone to turn their back yards into gardens and get livestock and start farming? Not everyone lives on a ranch or a mansion sized plot of land. For most people they are going to be lucky to have a small flower patch to plant a few tomatoes or something. And maybe they can get an orange or apple tree planted in their back yard. IF they have a back yard...And what about the people who rent rooms or apartments? Or even townhouses? What land do they farm? Society evolves. You completely forgot about the exploitation of Native Americans and the conquest of their land. You completely forgot about the slave trade. Indentured servants. Not everyone did their own work back in your so-called "Good old days." Some did. Many others FORCED others to do the work for them and profited off it.

Every 9900k will work with 3600 mhz XMP memory, but may require a VCCIO and VCCSA voltage increase. The DDR 2666 mhz spec is for VCCIO=0.95v and VCCSA=1.05v. Anything higher is basically considered an overclock/overvolt and voids the warranty unless you buy their replacement plan (never mind that Intel themselves made the XMP spec). Some people have already gotten 4800-5000 mhz memory working on the 9900k. Usually this requires going subzero to do and lots of voltage. Buying a >4533 mhz binned RAM kit is usually not going to work at stock XMP on any regular system--those sticks are made for people going for world records.

This is actually only partially true. The mouse switch internal contacts degrade, and eventually they will degrade to the point where you can't even keep the switch held down without it randomly releasing. That's going to happen on the chinese Omrons no matter what you do. The static problem causes a change in resistance inside the switch, which simply -enhances- the problem, because the resistance increases too much, which lowers the threshold at which electrical contact is lost. When you get rid of any spare electricity (it's not really 'static), some of the resistance returns, and the mouse performs more like before. The switch will still continue slowly degrading however. There was a very good video released not too long ago which explained EXACTLY why this happens and it has nothing to do with static.

The 10 core is the last hurrah. Unless there is a backport of willow cove that will work on Z490 motherboards. Also what game uses 24 threads? A 12 core version of the 10900k is simply going to draw FAR too much power to be usable on a full core load without going direct die. Just running Realbench 2.56 on a 5 ghz version of that is going to overwhelm most air coolers except the top three. Look at the heat generated by the 10940X already when you run it on all cores in Cinebench R20 @ 5 ghz. No air cooler out can cool it.

How do you figure? Did you test this? These heatsinks were tested. The NH-D15 max TDP is not advertised anywhere. It was listed long ago at somewhere around 240W but that information was removed by Noctua. The TS140P TDP is actually available. The 140P is capable of cooling a HEDT CPU (the Le Grand Macho RT is even better). The D15 will get heat saturated sooner but both will get overwhelmed if you crank up the voltages. TS140P: Thermal design power: 360watt Le Grand Macho RT: Thermal design power: 320watt There was a huge discussion about this on OCN in the 140P thread.

Air coolers: Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power, Le Grand Macho RT, Noctua NH-D15 are the top three. (TS140P has better cooling capability than the D15 due to more heat pipes--the D15 will get saturated sooner). AIOs: Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 is currently the best in its class as its not an Asetek rebrand. For anything better you have to go custom blocks and rads.

What heavy thing are you referring to here rand what is the CPU voltage at load and at idle (e.g. what was set in the BIOS?) No CPU should go from 35 to 80C in 1 second unless you're trying to run Prime95 or LinX 0.9.6 on the poor thing.

Your password was "probably" used on that one canadian computer hardware website which went bankrupt some time ago, the one that Linus went to for that auction. There was a massive thread here about it They had their passwords stored on unsecured drives and there was a data breach and a lot of people got spammed emails with messages from that bot, showing the password they used. If you changed your password since then, nothing will happen to you..

Almost all of the AIO's out there are Asetek rebrands. (think of AMD video cards, the difference between "reference" cards and non-reference). I do not know which ones are not. The Arctic Liquid Freezer II are made directly in-house by Arctic. There are VERY FEW reviews of the 360 unit. 240 was here https://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/james-dawson/arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-all-in-one-cpu-cooler-review/5/ 280 was here https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-280-all-in-one-cpu-cooler,6376-2.html https://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/arctic_liquid_freezer_ii_280_liquid_cooler_review,11.html This is the only one I can find anywhere. https://www.realhardwarereviews.com/arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-360/6/ And their testing graph makes literally no sense at all, with the absurdly low CPU temps. If you want others you may have to search end user reviews on youtube or on random forums (and even then there's virtually no comparison data).

See Thor. See Thor point finger. See Thor finger shoot lighting. See Thor finger shoot lighting and see electronic explode. See Hulk Smash. See Thor immune to lighting. See human be like Thor and blow up 9900k for the Ryzen God. See Raiden make you his disciple.

Does the power "Charge battery" light on the laptop toggle on and off when the laptop is turned off ?