Falkentyne

Are you talking about life and death here? Because if you are, no one living can answer this question, because if they could, they wouldn't be living...

This is beyond me, sorry. The first thing I would do is to try the GPU in a different system, with a different motherboard and PSU and see if the same thing happens, to try to pin down the GPU as the common factor. But some people don't have the parts or ability to do that. Then the only choice is to RMA something. I would be aiming towards the GPU, but if you can somehow borrow or acquire a new PSU, which may cost you money, that could potentially save you a lot of time. However Black screen + 100% fan, if the GPU or mosfets aren't overheating (overheating Core "thermal trip" and overheating VRM's can and do cause this exact same protection shutdown!), is almost always only two things: 1) GPU critical hardware problem of some sort. Buggy drivers usually won't cause this but it CAN happen if combined with some unforseen PCB hardware design flaw--witness the problem with people getting 100% fan+black screen watching youtube on Ampere video cards. I never saw this on my system but I did see something similar--but that actually showed a "TDR" BSOD error, which was more helpful. 2) faulty PSU rails or unstable voltage supply (e.g. +12v PCIE input voltages/rails unstable or dropping too low), card sees this and enters protection mode, shutting the GPU core down completely (System remains on but hardlocked). Another black screen error that can occur is a 'watchdog' error, this is usually caused by overclocking the card too far. The card hardlocks, can't recover from the fault by a driver reset, then an OS watchdog violation flag occurs from the driver, and the entire computer reboots itself. That's not related to your issue. All I can tell you from here is "good luck."

Not so un-interchangeable. People have used the MSI GTX 1070 MXM card on their Clevo LGAbooks for years now. It's also a favorite for a BIOS hardware TDP modding (the very old and beta Pascal bios editor works great as it was tested on those) to 230W as the Clevo laptops, *WITH A PREMA BIOS*, don't have those absurd EC restrictions on power draw that the MSI laptops have. On MSI laptops, to spoof the power limits, you have to change the EC value for a GTX 1070 ID to a GTX 1080 ID, which can be done in RW Everything in the EC RAM section. Register E3 controls this value. On Skylake (6820HK/HQ etc), value 10 is for 230W and 11 is for 330W. On Kaby Lake, 90 is for 230W and 91 is for 330W, but the older 10 and 11 also work for some reason. Note that the GT62VR, funny enough, with the extremely rare 6820HK unlocked model on that nonstandard SKU (usually this is only on the GT73VR 6RE/6RF, kaby lake is 7RE/7RF), has a "20" for the 1070 models. the 1080 model was never released for that platform, but "21" bypasses this limit and allows 330W, but it unfortunately does NOT allow the CPU to exceed 45W--it will still power limit throttle down after TAU expires even with "21" set. I tested this on my own GT73VR 7RE with my 1070 and noticed that 20 and 21 actually work. I believe that's because the normal "highest end" SKU for the GT62VR was the 6920HQ, which is also a locked 45W TDP CPU. But the 6920HK version, which is unlocked, was an extremely rare and nonstandard SKU (you couldn't buy it in USA at least), and the EC wasn't made for that version. This caused problems where some versions of the EC on the GT62VR throttled the CPU heavily even when it wasn't supposed to throttle it, and I investigated and saw the EC had completely missing power fields in areas where the power values were read out on the "proper" versions (I forgot the locations....I think they were at location C5 and C6. where 9E means full power and C0/C1 means full power (AC on, battery level high) and 40 means "NOS active" limited throttle). But the "Special" skus had "00 "00" here, which means throttling was always active all the time, and you couldn't even reach 230W on these models. Anyway getting off track big time now. I think it was the Clevo P770 DM3 or KM1 or I forgot now, but the MSI card works perfectly in the Clevo laptop but it requires a small modification to the Clevo heatsink, because the MSI card has that weird "tab" on the top right that the Clevo 1070 does not have. Other than that, the GPU and memory positions are identical. Now, the MSI 1080 card and the Clevo 1080 cards are not interchangeable, as the MSI card has that strange flipped core position on their 1080 (they even have a completely different heatsink (2 pieces) for their GT73VR and GT75VR for a 1080 and a 1070 model!)

I don't think anyone here read the original post. Black screen+100% fan has nothing to do with a PSU shutting down. PSU shutting down means the entire computer turns off and the fans *stop*, just as if you flipped the breaker switch on the back of the PSU. This problem as described is the GPU core itself shutting down due to a critical fault either on the core, overtemp protection, or on the power delivery or voltage rails.

Yeah the AC adapter light thing on power on was also known about in the Clevo forum section over on the now dead notebookreview forums. Some clevos used the exact same Delta AC adapter as MSI laptops used, that were not using the chicony adapter (and even then, the plug pinouts were the same, as Delta PSU's were interchangeable, even if the Embedded Controller would limit total system power before CPU throttling occurred (on MSI laptops this was based on PCI ID video card detection, stored in a specific EC RAM register "E3" location). So there was discussion about the instant LED shutoff issue, rather than the laptop just resetting itself. Another thing which can trigger the AC adapter to trip was overdrawing the power threshold from it, which was about 250W on the Chicony 230W adapters and somewhere above 360W on the Delta 330W adapters. (Papusan said the Delta PSU could pull 380W, IIRC)

Look at the power supply AC brick. Does the LED on the brick itself shut off? If it does, it means there's an actual short on the video card, which means the card is completely dead. The AC adapter itself shutting off instantly is a protection trip. As far as I remember, the MSI GTX 1070 on the GT62VR and GT72VR and GT73VR were all interchangeable, except some were 1.0 cards and 1.2 cards (this was written somewhere on the card itself), while all GT73VR 7RE's and GT72VR 7RE's had 1.02 cards if they were 7820HK/7700HQ Kaby Lake models. But the version itself would not stop a card from booting in any of the systems.

Depends on what FPS you have. If it's 30 FPS or lower, that's unplayable. If it's 60 FPS, then a 10 FPS drop gets noticeable, although this affects first person shooter games more than any other. If you're at 144 FPS or higher, not so much. At higher FPS, you only start noticing a 10 FPS drop if vsync is enabled and especially if you're using something called "motion blur reduction." To circumvent that, use Gsync or Freesync, but for blur reduction, very, very few monitors allow gsync/freesync and blur reduction at the same time (a very few do), so keep that in mind. For regular blur reduction, you need FPS=hz locked at all times (so, vsync=enabled) and without FPS dropping below monitor refresh rate or you notice stutters big time. To avoid this with vsync off however, you would need FPS to be equal to DOUBLE the refresh rate or more (explanations about this are on blurbusters forums).

Take up chess. You can practice online on lichess or chess.com or combine online chess with going to a physical chess club if you have one within travel distance of where you live. Also consider other things like card games, board games, dungeons and dragons and other hobbies as well. Playing games like Starcraft and League of Legends so much that you get either completely bored and worn out or beaten up by League Toxicity will make you hate gaming no matter what you do. Also try single player games like Roguelike or action platformer roguelike games, or even "traditional" role playing games. Pathfinder Kingmaker, Pathfinder WOTR, Baldur's Gate 3 and many others. You don't need to play "against" other people to enjoy gaming. Or even WITH other people (Co-op, etc). If you find that you do, then you may need to look at something psychological that you need assistance with (and this forum is definitely not for that).

Does your motherboard have an onboard power button, either in the back or on the motherboard? (I know the Aorus Master and Aorus Xtreme do, however I do not know if the lower end models have one or not). If it DOES have an onboard power button, simply remove all of the case I/O jumper panel cables from the motherboard and use that button. If it then works perfectly, you immediately know you had a jumper for the case I/O on wrong or on the wrong blocks. If it doesn't, remove all of the onboard case i/o jumpers except "PWR_SW" or "PWR_BTN", which should be a 2 pin jumper. Use that and then see if the system now works. Also, check to see if your case has an onboard CLR_CMOS or CLR_RTC jumper on the board itself. Some boards have both a back clear cmos button on the rear I/O and also a clear CMOS jumper on the board itself. Make sure the onboard button is not connected (a jumper block covering both pins means it's shorted or connected. A jumper block only covering one pin and not two means it's open or not connected, which is fine).

Not much. CPU without hyperthreading in 2022? Maybe donate it to a school, although most schools should have active systems newer than that. Or find someone with an old Pentium 4 system and give to to them.

The problem with MMO's is that they are basically very similar in the overall formula, with only the presentation and social system being different. There's no way to create a true "Pencil and Paper" RPG environment in a persistent world, without a lot more work going into how this can be implemented seamlessly. The ideal game would be something based on party centric modules like D&D or Greyhawk or Pathfinder or similar, in a universe where different scenarios can be constantly inserted and built for party based overworld and dungeon exploration, with as much detail and interaction (although still greatly simplified and sped up) that you would expect from a D&D session. Unfortunately, the true adventuring module aspect of this simply hasn't been pulled off in anything that isn't single player + local multiplayer + module format (think Neverwinter Nights, etc). While the "build a house, make a trade" aspect is well developed in some games, everything ends up all turning into the same Mega Boss + Raiding + PVP megabattles formula, or the "Group vs hordes of enemy monsters tactical action battles" formula ala Warhammer Vermintide, et all. Whether this is high fantasy or deep space scifi. In the end, all you wind up with is a monty haul, monster mash simulator. Then on the other side, you have the ARPG genre, which turn into loot / skill / ability management orgies, DPS and constant item crafting, mods and custom level challenges ala Path of Exile. But to this day, there simply hasn't been a proper marriage of single player party based, exploration, tactical and puzzle solving / ethical dilemma based adventure RPG'ing and massively multiplayer gaming. And the games that have been most successful, like Final Fantasy 14, WOW, etc, are still basically instanced action MMORPG's at heart, often with an arcadish feel (without turning into a platformer or action FPS fantasy or Scifi game).

That motherboard has the proper BIOS settings. First you need to make sure TPM 2.0 is enabled. When it's enabled you will see a "security device found" somewhere in your BIOS, with some sort of keys or weird stuff. The next step is what throws people off. You need to go to the Secure Boot options (Asus BIOS so I know it's there), and go to secure boot settings and change it from "Other OS" to UEFI/Windows. This seems to default to "Other OS" on some BIOS versions. Valorant doesn't like that. Then finally, you need to go to windows security settings and make sure exploit guard (CFG) is enabled, which I think is called control flow guard. That's all you need to do.

This is not the way you ask people for help. System specs, please? Always give system specs before you try to ask for techsupport from people. This should also be in the techsupport forum as well.

The PC version of the cloth map? I know that's U5, but I remember a long time ago, some people said that the Commodore 64 version of the Ultima 4 cloth map was better than the other versions. This was some over 20 year old discussion somewhere. I don't know if that applies for U5 however.

FAT32 since that's the normal setting for files accessible via BIOS and bootable command line. Also convenient if you have files you want to print out at a UPS or Fedex store or library--not everyone owns a printer or scanner. You ca still use GBT/UEFI (e.g. windows ISO boot flash drive) for in-BIOS upgrades, but in most cases, USB "no CPU" flashback won't work with such disks and saving screenshots and BIOS profiles also won't save to such disks.

PM sent And please don't join the Army/Navy/whatever unless you actually LOVE army life (e.g. you came from a military family). I had a friend I was coaching in chess for awhile who actually left college to join the army and he got discharged in 6 months. He said it (not just basic training) was one of the worst experiences of his life (he was Asian, also, btw) and he decided to stick with academics. Yes, being successful in the Army will land you a job, but it's not for everyone. This isn't wartime (that is, assuming Taiwan and Ukraine don't suddenly get dropped simultaneously), and you don't want to just sign your life away on the dotted line (once you're in the Army, you're NOT a "civilian" anymore). Don't make a rash decision just because you're desperate. There are many, many ways to make money and find peace besides the military.

My question. Why deorbit it? Why not just thrust it out of orbit and fly it towards Venus or the Sun, for science? Wouldn't that be a lot less difficult? It's not like it would reverse course and turn back towards Earth. Plus they can probably get some nice research data in the process. Or would that require too much energy because it would just get sucked back towards Earth anyway?

Yes this was a long time coming, but I didn't expect it in Japan, of all places. The Pandemic didn't help anyone one bit, except for the stay at home PC/Console video game and mobile industry.

One of three possible reasons. 1) bad drivers (causing watchdog failures which is an immediate hard reset). 2) overheating VRM thermal pads. Black screen + 100% fan means that a critical fault was triggered somewhere. VRM pads tend to run even hotter than VRAM (until Ampere's GDDR6X), and without VRM temperature sensors, which only a few high end AIB cards may have, you won't know it. In that case you need to replace the pads with pads of proper thickness and softness (so that the GPU core itself doesn't get temp compromised from lack of contact). 3) failing components on the card--in that case you need to send it to someone like northridgefix or louis rossman or whoever can troubleshoot and fix these issues, if RMA isn't possible.

The voltages in BIOS seem to be within reasonable spec, although VCCIO_MEM, which I assume is set that way for XMP, seems a bit high (there are two VCCIO's, one for the CPU IO itself, which shouldn't really need to be changed unless there's a good reason for it, and one for memory, which is the one people were used to being yeeted back on Z390, Z490, etc). What I'm not sure is where "VCCST" in hwinfo is getting its 1.584v-1.60v reading from. The three standby voltages in BIOS are all within spec (1.050v). No idea why that board defaults VCCPLL to 1.2v (PLL Termination Voltage). Maybe they did it on purpose but no idea why. what happens if you set VCCPLL manually to 1.050v? This setting should be close to standby voltage (no more than 100mv separated).

Even if the motherboard has mounting holes for 115x, the z-height will be incorrect for 1700. When I tried using my NH-D15 with the 115x secufirm2 bracket on S1700, the balance and mounting pressure was atrocious. The noctua bracket worked fine with an Eisbaer AIO though (since it just screws in without spacers, although that's the case for both a 1151 and 1700 board identically). I didn't bother testing the actual 1700 secufirm2 bracket with the NH-D15 though.

I went through some of your original screenshots and I found a few problems already. I noticed that your "VCCST" is reporting 1.6v. This is a LN2 voltage setting and should NEVER be this high. Also you have another setting called "CPU Standby 1" which is reporting 1.056v, which is the correct value. I'm honestly not sure what's going on here. There are two standby voltages. One is "Standby (VCCST) and one is Standby Gated (VCCSTG). Normally, the one that HWinfo reports as VCCST is the regular standby voltage. Standby Gated (VCCSTG) is almost never reported by hwinfo unless the "Embedded Controller" field for your motherboard reveals this, and that's always in its own section "E.g. EC" or "Embedded Controller." Anyway, both voltages should normally be set to 1.05v, which is also the same default voltage for "DMI voltage". Another issue I saw is your VCC PLL. I'm going to assume that this is "PLL Termination Voltage". Usually Gigabyte motherboards have traditionally called this "VCC VTT", VTT meaning Termination, much like, for DDR4 memory overclocking, you may have heard of DDR VTT voltage", or DDR Termination Voltage", which is normally set to 1/2 of "Memory VDIMM" voltage. But these voltages are often called different names depending on OEM (Asus, Gigabyte, Asrock, MSI etc). Anyway... PLL Termination Voltage should ALWAYS be set to the SAME Value as Standby voltage, which is 1.05v. This is yet another LN2 setting. Sometimes, raising PLL Termination Voltage and CPU Standby (VCCST) voltage together a few ticks (e.g., from 1.05v to 1.20v) can help stabilize cache overclock a little bit, on air/water cooling, but this is never needed for stock operation or regular light overclocking. What we found on both Z590 and Z690 motherboards (ESPECIALLY on Z690 motherboards), is that PLL Termination Voltage needs to be within a certain range of Standby voltage, or the system can completely hard lock (or even report "No CPU detected" or "Post code 00" error after a power off). I think on Z590, PLL Term had to be within a certain amount of millivolts of Standby voltage, while on Z690, they need to be set to the same value. I'm honestly hoping that hwinfo64 is reporting an incorrect value, as a PLL Termination Voltage of 1.20v, while not unsafe, is not standard at all. The second problem is your VCCST. That's reporting 1.60v and this is absolutely NOT correct and NOT safe. However I know nothing about Asrock boards so I don't know what's going on here. This is a LN2 setting (designed to prevent "cold bugs" when trying to run subzero cooling). Are you using the very, very latest version of HWinfo64 from the hwinfo website? If not, try using that and see if you still get a 1.60v reading. Otherwise, if you can find these values in your BIOS (VCCST and VCCST Gated), you can change them both to 1.05v, and change VCC VTT / PLL Termination Voltage to 1.05v and see if that improves anything.

As soon as I saw "selling it to buy a tire..." I Instantly knew what was coming. Never give anyone any payment over anything without buyer protection (meaning: dont even use family and friends on paypal!), and meet in a police station and exchange money and goods there. If they act weird when you mention police station then you know they're crooks.

Before making a comment like this, I think you should clearly explain the difference between 1T, 1N and N=1. Because 90% of people who read your message will have no idea what you're talking about. And yes there is 1T on Alder Lake. AIDA64 tests won't pick it up with DDR5 (unlike DDR4). But game tests will show serious improvements especially with 1% lows. I don't know about DDR4. And there is no "Gear 1" with DDR5 because a section of the cycles are in one pass (unlike Gear 2 with DDR4). Please don't ask me for questions about this as I don't know and I won't answer, but somewhere around 46 minutes here is a full explanation by Skatterbencher.

Bottom line is COVID is never going away. The only way it's going to be remotely contained is if as many people get the vaccine that can safely take it, which will greatly reduce the amount of mutations, people start taking better care of their health (hint: try watching your weight and activity--being obese and a sloth is BAD, ok?), keep up your Vitamin D levels (taking Vitamin D3 and Vitamin B12 together is good for you and studies have shown that this makes it harder for the virus to bind to cells), and there have even been positive studies on the effect of Manuka Honey (UMF 10+) with regards to helping you resist bad effects from various diseases and infections (I take it almost every day), and IT TASTES GOOD TOO. Not only can doing all of this help keep any COVID infections mild, but colds, flu and a host of other things (Anti-peroxide activity is useful). What's not going to help are these knee-jerk shutdowns because of unvaccinated people being breeding grounds for mutations punishing vaccinated people.