Falkentyne

Well that sucks It was Krakoff who sent me beta firmware for the Deathadder when I was posting about some tracking issues a LONG time ago on the old razer forums, and IIRC, he ended up sending me a razer shirt, and some swag with it. I still have it too. Although the shirt is a bit faded. I think I remember seeing him at E3 when they were unveiling the original Diamondback mouse.

Might be a bad card. Black screen+100% fan speed is usually the GPU detecting a fatal fault and shutting itself down. If it's VRM's overheating because of a defective thermal pad, this will usually be shown via "GPU Hotspot temperature" reaching over 100C, since as far as I know, both the GPU Core and the VRM's report to the hotspot together. But usually, this can be caused by an issue with the core itself, or with the power delivery (VRM's). Let us know if the 3090 Ti solves the problem because if it does, it means the old card was just bad.

You can try this. https://kriticalpads.com/customgpusets The custom set works for both 3080 Ti FE and non TI FE. I'm a full sheet person myself, usually cheaper to cut your own pads out and then you can manually re-pad in the future, but for you, I think the custom set will work.

Ok, as I asked earlier, is the black screen a "max GPU fans+100%" crash with a hard lock? Or a normal "black screen then system reboots in a few seconds?"

Thank you. The voltages are in spec. That means your PSU cables are not degraded with high resistance and dropping the +12v input rails. That's good news. Are you using three independent separate 8 pin cables, one for each 8 pin on the GPU?

You didn't expand the GPU Rail voltages like I asked you to do... Also make sure you do it while the GPU is at full load, not at idle. seeing a voltage of 0.739v isn't helpful.

AFAIK, MSI's GTX 1070 and 1080 MXM used the desktop dies. The 1070 MXM actually had slightly more cuda cores than the desktop version, but a castrated power limit. The 1080 MXM came in 150W and 200W variants (idk about cores).

50. And all I do is play chess and want to be liked more.

That isn't necessarily true at all. That just shows that there isn't a short or a fault on the line. It does NOT mean that the card is 'getting the power it needs'. Far from it. And we're not talking about power actually. We're talking about voltage. Not watts. Run HWinfo64, go to sensors only, *EXPAND* all of the GPU sensor "collapsed" threads/fields and then post a screenshot of the voltage rails. I'm going to bet more than one of them will be below 11.9v. Basically, you can try: 1. Use a single dedicated 8 pin PCIE cable (going to one 8 pin connector on the PSU) for each 8 pin on the video card. Meaning do NOT use a daisy-chained 2x8 pin cable into two ports on the video card, going to 1 8 pin on the PSU end. So on a 3x8 pin card you would need three separate 8 pin cables. For FE cards, the adapter itself is usually enough, or a OEM official supplied micro-fit 3.0 cable (Seasonic makes one for seasonic OEM branded PSU's, I believe there is at least one other manufacturer who makes them, but Corsair does NOT make their own PSU's in-house at their own factory, and their cables are supplied by the OEM). Can you explain the black screen please? Is it just a 'black screen then the system powers off and reboots'? Or is it a 'black screen followed by GPU fans running at 100% speed and a hard lockup?'

What you SHOULD have done was bought some 99% isopropyl alcohol (like a gallon of it from a hardware store; you could also order it online), then find a small container that the video card can fit in without too much extra room taken up around it, and then disassemble the card, then drown the entire PCB and submerge it in alcohol for about 30 minutes. Then wipe the entire card off with the alcohol, and a lint, static free cloth(s), and then douse the card again for another 30 minutes in another completely fresh tub of more alcohol. A gallon should be enough for all of this, but I'm taking wild guesses on how much you need--and that also depends on the size of the container you are using. When cleaning the card, be very careful about applying excessive pressure on any small components. You shouldn't need to because the 99% isopropyl should dissolve almost everything and anything remaining will be a very easy wipe-up. Some people may recommend "Paint thinner" but I'm not so sure about that. Plus paint thinner (which is an excellent adhesive dissolver--provided you have the CORRECT thinner!) may be toxic as well. Then clean the card again, and it should be 100% completely pristine. That's the proper way to fully clean a card. But in your case it's probably a brick by now.

I don't have the links and I can't be bothered taking all that time to search for them, buried in threads like that, I apologize but I have work to do. But I can tell you It was on the Asus and 12900K forum sections with several users on OCN (overclock.net), and with one user having problems with a waterblock and getting proper IHS contact (very bad thermal paste spread and contact with pictures) until he exchanged his Apex for another board (I don't know if it was a MSI or Gigabyte) but as soon as he exchanged it, there were no temp problems at all.

Some people are getting overheating at stock turbo boost settings because of this and are not trying to get world records.

So where can you buy this in the USA?

It's amazing how so many things made in the 60's and 70's were engineered to _last_ a long time.

Future proofing doesn't exist in computer gaming, but getting an upgrade that has long legs and will last you awhile, meaning, buying at the right time and buying high end at the right time, does exist. 2600K lasted for a very long time...five years, before the 8700k mainstream 6 cores really made people want to upgrade. I could argue that anyone who upgraded to 9900K or 10900K might also have long legs as well, as more than 8 cores (16 threads) won't be necessary for quite a while, and Rocket Lake wasn't that much of an upgrade over 10900K due to the gearing latency penalty. But it's going to be very difficult to tell if the 10900K will have as long legs as the 2600K did or if IPC improvements with ADL, RPL and MTL (Meteor Lake) will make people want to upgrade there also. But with 9900K onwards, the key is to look at in game FPS with the games you're playing combined with a modern video card, and NOT at benchmark comparisons, because any comparisons will always be depressing to look at. If a 9900K gets 200 FPS in a game and a 13900K gets 350 FPS, that's going to make you feel very bad, but is 200 FPS actually slow? If not, then the legs are still running. Video cards are a huge chaos of a mess though, although some would argue that Turing had almost no lifespan whatsoever. The only card had any real remotely decent lifespan within the last several years was the 1080 Ti, and even that card now is looking silly with all of the new Ray Tracing and DLSS games out now. But video cards are drop in upgrade as long as your PSU is sufficient (and your CPU and memory can feed it).

All you can do at this point is to completely power off the laptop. In other words, power it off, remove the AC, then disconnect the internal battery (you will have to google to find out how). Once the internal battery is disconnected, wait a few minutes then hook the internal battery back up, reassemble the laptop chassis then AC, then power on and pray. This sometimes is good enough to reset everything *IF* a crash managed to put the card into a bad NVRAM state, but no physical damage occurred to the card or motherboard. If this doesn't fix the problem, the GPU is a brick and you need to contact the service center or where you bought it from, depending on warranty status.

We need to have better public transportation that people without cars can get around to work and social events that end AFTER early evening, without being rich. Only rich people can afford to Uber everywhere, and bus systems in MANY areas simply leave you STRANDED with no way to get back home, after a certain time (e.g. chess clubs getting out at 10:30 PM and the last bus leaves at 10 pm, AND you have to get a connecting route home=you're screwed, period). But no one ever thinks of these things, right? Not to mention people with graveyard shifts... If average people can get around in late evening without having to be rich, own a car or pay absurd amounts of money, then things would be better. The world doesn't end at 8 pm.

TG PP10 thermal putty tends to be better than K5 Pro. Whoever makes K5 Pro changed something in their formulation which makes it much worse than the original stuff they sold when it was first released. There was discussion about this over on notebookreview forums which are now gone. There may be archived or resurrected discussion on the site the main posters migrated to: https://notebooktalk.net/ But most people now recommend TG PP10 for the putty route. Getting the correct thermal pad spacing is quite difficult. Since almost no one gives the original dimensions (MSI and a few other OEM's have been known to distribute this to customers who contact them and ask nicely--SOMETIMES)--Palit and Gainward (which may be part of the same parent company) have also distributed this for RTX 3090's, etc), you often have to test soft thermal pads of various thicknesses and mount and dismount to test yourself. And as mentioned earlier, liquid metal on video cards REQUIRES proper prep work protection. Having the bare SMD's around the die exposed like that is a big no-no. LM gets on there and at best, your card would be artifacting and crashing, and at worst, could end up completely broken and short-circuited !

Thank you for the information. Glad to see the Seasonic micro-fit cable will still work on a 3090 Ti. Seasonic replied in email saying they are developing ATX 3.0 spec PSU's and they will be announced at a later time. I guess shunt mods will be a thing of the past on a 4090 card, huh

Jonny, What about the PSUs that already have the 12 pin cable (that connects to 2x8 pin from the PSU), e.g. Seasonic PSUs with their Micro-fit 3.0 cable?

3060 Ti or 3070 will serve you well. Choose the 3070 if you have the budget for it. If not there's no shame in a 3060 Ti (Please avoid the 3060, it's complete slow garbage). Another option is a 3080 FE from Best Buy at MSRP (without the absurd Total Tech bullcrap), if you have a store by your location that you can go to in person (you can use the BB app to search for FE cards, it will say out of stock obviously, but if you enter the store location and go to inventory, if it's in the manifest as allocated, it will show in stock. Then you just have to very kindly in person ask the sales assoc if they can get the card for you)

This was discussed on a PSU review site sometimes within the last year but I don't remember where. Might have been one of Aris' reviews, but it could have only been Aris, jonnyguru, or right here on this forum (PSU section). I'm not going to search it for you (that's unfair to me, sorry), you can do that yourself. Or ask Jonnyguru who frequents the PSU section. But my first PC had one of those very old style PSU's. The rocker switch felt MUCH more sturdy than anything you can buy today. (of course the usable lifespan of such an old unit is obsoleted by newer hardware requirements, but I remember the Zeos manual saying to turn the switch off). And you can go even farther back and find systems which were designed to power on directly with the back PSU switch--there was no "case" button at all. And what makes you think switch durability is BETTER now? Do you realize things these days are designed to break and are often made with much lower quality components to cheapen costs and raise profits? Ever hear about 1970's era washing machines lasting 40 years? Plenty of people have discussed this topic. They were made to last. You just have to sometimes replace the belt or some other mechanical parts--but they're mechanical---mechanical parts are easily serviced. Same thing goes for old refrigerators. Your grandma's old fridge lasting 20 or 30 years...you ever seen that from a new unit that doesn't cost $5,000+?

You should always shut down the PC from the operating system whenever possible. There is redundancy built in to help protect against most corruption in case of a sudden hard lockup or BSOD. Using the case power button to power off the PC (5 second press=shutoff) from within windows counts as as an "unsafe shutdown", and is treated as a system crash. This shutdown is safer than a complete power cut however! The worst case scenario is for a complete AC loss (power blackout, etc) or switching the PSU off while it's in the operating system. Depending on the quality of the PSU, it can be much worse to have a system shut off like this during heavy load (e.g. 600W or greater) than idle. If you mean shut off the PSU rocker switch after the PC is shut off, this is completely safe, but there is some debate about the durability of the flip switch from repeated use. The very old AT style power supplies from the early 90's were designed to be flipped off like this. Newer ones have less durable switches, but you would have to contact the actual PSU OEM to determine the life cycle of the # of switch activations. Seasonic, who makes their own PSU's, should supply this information if you ask them nicely in an email. Not sure about others like Superflower or Fortron, etc.

Everyone knows the Universe is simply a gigantic sphere with all the "matter" swimming around in it

What do you mean by "Cleaning"? You mean physical cleaning from dust and grime and other nasty stuff? Or the operating system itself?