Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards

About Falkentyne

  • Title

Recent Profile Visitors

1,993 profile views
  1. And as the old saying goes..a fool and his money are soon parted... Or maybe desperate people and their money are soon parted...
  2. The 9900k was supported long before the 1005 bios. 1005 came out April 2019. The 9900k was released in late 2018. Perhaps you're referring to 'R0' stepping support?
  3. The only thing unsafe is running at high volts, high temps and high amounts of loadline calibration at the same time. The CPU thermal throttles for a reason. As long as this protection isn't bypassed and you aren't overclocking, you're going to be fine. Also note that high current degrades silicon, and high current + high heat degrades it faster. If you don't go too close to the max amps rating, and keep the voltage and temps low, you are safe. Voltage by itself (without current) won't degrade anything until it passes a certain point, (which is HEAVILY dependent on if you exceeded Intel spec loadline calibration or not). That's because there is a point where, at a certain voltage, even a low amount of current will cause degradation. You can also go so high on the voltage that you simply blast through the oxide gates and the chip is destroyed. You see this happening to people doing LN2 runs above 1.65v sometimes.
  4. This is definitely a defective motherboard. I can only guess it's some sort of resistor that's failing.
  5. The only post about higher core temps I saw was someone's AIO had simply died. There is no difference in temps. Make sure you clear CMOS after flashing and booting to bios once. The outstanding bugs that were reported in F10 were fixed in f11c. The DVID bug (when trying to change to fixed vcore) and 300 khz VRM switching "feature" are not new to these recent bioses.
  6. Since I seem to be incapable of looking at when this thread was started, I'll continue on my drunken rant. There used to be. Ever heard of Cyrix and VIA? There was also Motorola for a long time. They made the Commodore 64 and Apple 2, Atari and the Commodore Amiga chips. And those computers were very definitely "Desktops." I believe the Super Nintendo used the same chip that the Apple 2/GS used. Intel was only on the "IBM PC" platform back then. Eventually AMD got the x86 license and the rest is history. The Cyrix chips sucked. VIA now only makes enterprise chipsets. They did chipsets and I think they bought Cyrix?
  7. Generally speaking, the best time to upgrade is around the time any major new console family hits the market. So since the new Xbox and PS5 will be released next fall, that's the time you want to do a big upgrade. And then you should know all about the Z490 and 10 cores and also see if willow cove will be backported to that same socket (8 cores but much higher IPC). If new consoles come out right at the end of a product's life cycle, then you wait until the new products are released.
  8. How did a screw come into contact with the bottom of the card while it was powered on ? That's literally impossible. If you can boot with the iGPU, or another video card, and can't boot with the Vega in the other PCIE slot, it's dead. And you cant fix it without advanced low level hardware diagnostic and soldering experience. You're lucky you didn't take out the motherboard in addition to the card. How did that happen?
  9. That's not how you clear the CMOS. You: 1) unplug the AC power cord/switch the PSU rocker switch off. THIS MUST BE DONE. 2) press the clear CMOS button on the motherboard (if it has one), or Take a screwdriver and short the clear CMOS jumper pins for 15 seconds There is no need to remove the battery whatsoever. The battery saves the time/date and other information. Not the BIOS. The BIOS settings are saved in flash memory. Removing the onboard battery doesn't guarantee that the CMOS settings (NVRAM) will also be erased. You can do this method without a CPU even being installed. Then insert the new CPU, hook everything up and load optimized defaults. If it still doesn't work after doing all of this and loading optimized defaults, you probably have a defective CPU (this happens) or you broke something or you static shocked the underside of it, if the old CPU works perfectly.
  10. As far as I know, the Code, Formula and Hero are all the same board, just with different features, connectors, ports, etc. So among that tier, you just get the one that has the features you need. Overclocking is pretty mediocre on them, but long term stability for gaming, I know nothing about. But I can't see a 9600k causing problems.
  11. If you want air cooling, Noctua Nh-D15 has a very easy mounting system. I assume Thermalright has also improved theirs. I would recommend the True Spirit 140 Power, as some people get better temps than a D15 (the 140 power has more heat pipes). If you want to get an AIO, one of the best out there is this one: https://www.newegg.com/arctic-cooling-liquid-freezer-ii-360-liquid-cooling-system/p/N82E16835186249 But it's expensive. If you don't have room for a 360 rad, you can try the 280 version of that unit also. Yes, that's the same Arctic that made MX-4 thermal paste. Whatever you do, you don't buy a $580 processor and throw a $20 heatsink or $40 power supply on it
  12. No, The 2600k featured 50% overclocks on many (although not all) CPU samples of its generation (although many ran them at too high voltages combined with too aggressive LLC, thus eventual degradation), which is something that hadn't been seen since the Pentium 3 Celeron/coppermine 600e @ 900 and early Pentium 4 1.8C @ 3.4 ghz days, and it was gaming viable for over 6 years. The 8700k is nowhere near like that. It's just the first mainstream consumer chip with more than 4 cores, but there were 6 core Nehalem's before.
  13. I assume you're referring to IC Diamond or something? IDK I don't use that. I use Kryonaut and homemade Galinstan LM.
  14. Yeah i only mentioned this because another user on reddit had 'climbing temps' after over a year of using his chip, and neither a repaste nor a new cooler fixed the problem. And contact was fine on the outside. Several people suggested the problem was the Dow Corning IHS paste, so that's why I mentioned that as a possibility. Rockit has both an 8th gen and 9th gen delid/relid kit (I think $39.95), and they also guarantee their work will not break the CPU. LM in any semi decent amount is just highway robbery--that's how they get rich (5 grams of Conductonaut is $40), so I decided to just git gud and make my own (100 grams worth) for less than double the price of an overpriced 5g tube. (having the original Conductonaut nozzle on any custom syringes is VERY important as even custom blunt metal tips aren't very suitable for conductonaut as it can still squirt out).