Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by shibbs

  1. I grew up in a small farming town (1000 people) in Minnesota, USA. It was horrible. Boring. Smelled like poop if the wind brought in the smell of manure from the neighboring farms. Once I turned 18 and was able to move out, I did.


    Now I live in the west suburbs of Minneapolis/St. Paul. MUCH more to my liking. Less racism, less sexism, more to do, and I can actually get internet with speeds better than 1mbit! lol


    Minnesota in general is great April - October. The other months there's far too much snow and cold for my liking. 

  2. 18 hours ago, flameprincess2000 said:

    Did you use Corsair Link?

    Nope. I refuse to install a software app that controls hardware. That just seems really backwards to me. What if the software crashes, then what controls the fan and pumps? Nah, I'll leave it to my motherboard. That's worked well for years, and has better control anyway.

  3. 6 hours ago, wildthing said:

    when i tried my x61 on full speed it sounded like a jet engine..

    The fans are loud. The pump isn't. (or shouldn't be, as long as it's not pulling in air bubbles) The X61 uses a similar/same Asetek pump to my H90, and that ran at full speed for 4 years without a peep or a problem. 

  4. The only benefits of glass is that it's clearer, and it will not stain or scratch as easily, and is compatible with every coolant commercially available.


    Benefits of PETG are that it's really easy to work with, is more forgiving, is able to be bent (saving money on fittings) and is cheaper.


    Acrylic is cheaper yet and slightly more compatible with coolants than PETG, but can be brittle (not REALLY a big deal in a case) and is slightly more difficult to bend than PETG. It is also more clear than PETG, but not as clear as glass.

  5. 3 hours ago, Moonzy said:

    your pc will stay cooler for a longer period of time (few seconds to minutes maybe, depends on flow rate and size of reservoir)


    but it will stabilise at a temperature soon

    which will be approx the same as before lol

    This is the correct answer.


    The loop will take longer to get to maximum temperature, but it will still get up to the same max. As stated before, it MAY dissipate a little bit of heat, but not enough worth mentioning. 


    If you're doing it for looks, do it up. Otherwise save your cash.

  6. A 240 for each component is a silly analogy. i.e. - A GTX 480 has a far higher power usage (and needs much more radiator) than a GTX 750. 


    If you don't want noise, then yeah, go with more radiator. If you don't mind the fans spinning, then what you've got will be fine with a mild overclock. If you're going balls-to-the-walls, then you'll want more rad, and maybe to even separate the CPU and the GPU loop for maximum efficiency. 

  7. 1 hour ago, W-L said:

    I would recommend to check to see if you can get silver coils or a biocide of sorts as silver coils but that coin would be pure enough. Just note that if there is any nickel in your loop you must use a biocide as silver is a borderline dis-similar metal with nickel in a loop environment. 

    To emphasize what W-L said, even the nickel plating in most fittings is going to be enough nickel to worry about using a silver kill coil or coin. If that's the case, I wouldn't recommend using a coin, as it will get pitted.


    Pick up some PTNuke and call it a day with your hardware store distilled water.

  8. I used 10/12mm Bitspower None Chamfer PETG tubing, along with EK HD compression fittings (http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-hdc-fitting-12mm-g1-4-black.html) and and Bitspower 90 degrees (http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-matte-black-enhance-90-degree-dual-multi-link-adapter.html


    IMO, the Bitspower fittings seemed to grip the tubing better, but I've got zero complaints about the EK fittings, too. I'm very happy with both of these.

  9. 4 hours ago, brandishwar said:

    No, it's ethylene glycol, also called ethane-diol, that it doesn't like, and the compatibility charts released by various plastics manufacturers show this. As far as I know, there is no incompatibility between PETG and propylene glycol (Koolance and EK coolants), also called propane-diol or glycerol (Mayhem's).

    You are correct. My bad. Editing first post to avoid spreading misinformation.

  10. On 3/12/2016 at 0:03 PM, brandishwar said:

    That's actually one of the beauties of PETG: it doesn't have the fragility as acrylic. It doesn't seem fragile at all and requires a lot of force to get it to break. Even then it doesn't really break but deform. JayzTwoCents demonstrated such when he smashed acrylic and PETG with a hammer. The acrylic shattered while the PETG was merely misshapen. It's a very good material for building a hardline loop.

    Except that it doesn't like (EDITED) ethylene glycol if you listen to the hype.


    I used PETG in mine, and it was great to work with, and looks great, too.

  11. 1 hour ago, brandishwar said:

    Use standard ratcheting soft tubing cutters for PETG. You'll end up with a clean cut every time, and it's a hell of a lot faster.

    I tried this first at a friend's recommendation, and my cuts ended up slightly angled. Perhaps there are better cutters out there, though. I know my cuts were perfectly straight with the Bitspower cutter.