nishank93

I'd also recommend regular OLED if most of your use is in a brighter room, or with light shining on the monitor. QD-OLEDs don't have the inky deep OLED blacks that you expect from OLED panels if you have any stray light on them.

Go for the tightest timings you can find on a 6000 kit.

Synergy is indeed the software LTT used to recommend ages ago. I have used it a bunch. Works perfectly for my needs. Its newer iterations have added functionality, but Barrier as Levent recommended above, is based on older (and still functional) Synergy, and might work just fine for your needs.

Go with a Zen3 or Rocket Lake based computer, perhaps even a Ryzen APU as suggested above, depending on your workload. Maybe even older, if there's a good deal to be found. A used dedicated graphics card (if you can find one for a reasonable price) might be a worthwhile upgrade. Alder Lake seems great, but a "light" workload doesn't warrant the extra cost.

Presumably with a 1070, you're playing at 1080p or even 1440p. In that case, go with CPU first. Your 1070 will still hold up at this resolution, and it gives you time to see what RDNA2 brings (even if you're set on Nvidia). I'd seriously also consider getting Zen2 still, if you're able to find a good deal around when Zen 3 launches.

Is this going into an AMD or Intel system? 3200 vs 3600 may not give you much or any performance difference, so you may as well save some cash.

Depending on what game at what resolution, that may not be abnormal at all. For example, I barely see my CPU usage go above 30-40% (in for example, Witcher 3, maximum settings, 4K). GPU usage does stay close to 100%. What games are you playing, and at what resolution?

http://www.legitreviews.com/ddr4-memory-scaling-performance-with-ryzen-7-2700x-on-the-amd-x470-platform_205154 The difference isn't massive between 2400MHz and 2666MHz. Either way, if you want more general CPU-based productivity you're pretty much stuck with Ryzen/Threadripper unless your budget is much larger.

The only reason you'd want to wait for the hybrid is the extra cooling capacity and lower noise (lower fan speed). Whatever little overclocking benefit there may be gained through watercooling these big Pascal chips could just be passed of as variance in the the silicon lottery. Get the Strix, Zotac, or FTW3 cards today. All excellent cards. Or get the FE and the Hybrid Kit from EVGA as suggested above. While the custom PCB of the Amp Extreme/FTW3/Strix cards are better than the FE, there are little real-world performance gains. The more you wait, the more you'll keep waiting. Vega is hopefully just around the corner, and it may match the 1080 Ti or even surpass it if we're lucky.

Presuming you are able to get a VM working on an external drive, which I have not tried before: 1) There are some pretty fast flash drives, but I don't know how well they'll cope with random IO at low queue depth, which is probably what an OS needs most. I'd recommend a portable SSD. 2) USB3.0 is capped at around 60 MB/s (480 Mb/s), so you won't get SATAIII level sequential performance, but it may be enough for running an OS. I'm not sure. 3) Other than a small difference in cost and flexibility of choosing an SSD/enclosure you like, no. 4) There are external M.2 and mSATA drive enclosures, but you'll be limited to USB3.0 on most computers, so I don't see much point other than a physically smaller drive. I don't know if there are any external NVMe drives (if you really need more IO at low queue depth), and I don't know if they'll be worth the extra cost to begin with. 5) A Samsung T3 is a safe bet. It's small, has a fast SSD inside, is available is a variety of capacities, and is USB3.1 compatible in case you want that. A T1 is cheaper but is USB3.0 only.

Yes, an SSD is significantly faster. Check the link I posted for more info. If you want to keep your current motherboard, just get a cheap SSD of a capacity that suits you and you're set.

@BudgetBoy For an OS drive, yes, an SSD is definitely an upgrade even thought it will most certainly be bottlenecked. You don't get the full read/write throughput for large files, but it's still great for randon I/O tasks at low queue depths an OS would perform. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ssd-upgrade-sata-3gbps,3469.html

I'm sure this has been said before, but please please please please can we see an uncut version of this, especially if Brandon's (who I think may have been filming) comments to Linus' outrage were recorded. I will join the floatplane for just this if you decide to put it there. @LinusTech @Slick @nicklmg @TaranLMG LMG people who's forum name I don't, make it happen.

Build is silly. Also, Maximus IX Formula has pretty good onboard MU-MIMO ac Wi-Fi. You could also simply go for a ModMic instead.

What voltage are you looking at? Screenshot if you don't know what it is. As pointed out, 1.7V for core voltage would be catastrophic with regular cooling.

I'm not too sure. Haven't used MSI's overclocking tool before. Run CPU-Z and check what voltage your CPU is at under a gaming load? Should be 1.10 V stock, and not over 1.25 V overclocked (you can push it to 1.30-1.40 V, but I don't recommend it for long term use). Or a simpler test would be to undo the overclock and see if temperatures drastically improve. A 4GHz overclock isn't spectacular anyway.

What voltage are you running it at? Might be that you set it to a too high fixed voltage, and that's making it run hot.

If you're concerned, a heatsink remount with new TIM wouldn't hurt. You could also try bumping up the fan speed for the fan on your heatsink, and maybe even the fans in your case as well. Your computer will shut itself off closer to 100°C, so you should be fine. I wouldn't be too concerned with 80°C.

This ought to help: http://www.howtogeek.com/269331/how-to-disable-all-of-windows-10s-built-in-advertising/

I would buy used. Gumtree can have a bunch of useful options, even though they might not be exactly what you want.

Would definitely find use for one of those!

Water cooled is almost certainly going to be cooler and probably will be able to boost to a higher clock. In saying that, some air cooled cards are excellent as well. Edit: Read GPU up there, sorry. An air cooler is fine. Watercooled only helps if you plan on overclocking.

1) I've set mine up to the PWM header, but you have to tell your motherboard to not freak out about CPU fan errors. 2) I'm not sure. There isn't much benefit into doing push/pull, so I haven't looked into it. 3) I have a 360mm radiator, and a bunch of other fans, that I'm running off of a PWM splitter that came with my case (Enthoo Luxe). 4) AIO's have matured enough that this sort of this is a rare occurrence.

Intel Core i7-5820K (stock) Gigabyte G1 980Ti (stock settings, GPUBoost typically takes it to 1362 MHz) G.Skill RipJaws4 32 GB 2800 MHz CL16

While your concerns are valid, maybe you should read this?