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toastythomas

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Posts posted by toastythomas

  1. I was cleaning my computer yesterday and I accidentally dropped my CPU ~3 feet on a tile floor. I also bent some pins in the socket while cleaning around the socket. I fixed the pins so visibly they're okay looking.

     

    Upon start up, Windows would not boot and the Intel motherboard sent out three beeps. I understood this as a memory issues so I reseated everything and tried one stick. The one stick solution worked. Now I am on my computer with one of the RAM sticks not in the system.

     

    Once I booted the PC, my hard drive was not being detected by Windows. It would appear in BIOS, but not in Devices or Disk Management. I solved this by enabling hot plug capability and plugging in the hard drive after OS boot.

     

    Now, my computer is crashing games and just crashing in general.

     

    I have ran Windows Memory Diagnostic and it shows no issues. Here is my computer build. What on earth have I done to my PC?

  2. 1 minute ago, Chett_Manly said:

    Latency with BT headphones is really hit and miss. Sometimes my QC35 are fine, and sometimes delayed on my PC, where I installed a wifi/bt pci-express card. So I don't use them for gaming.

     

    It would probably be better if the headphones had aptX, but I don't think any of the Bose do. 

    How much latency are we talking about? I usually play League of Legends and use Discord to talk to friends so it's not a huge deal.

  3. I recently picked up some Bose SoundLink around-ear wireless headphones II Black and they were great. I got them used for $170 and they have treated me well at the gym and home and commute and everywhere. I still use my regular headphones for PC, however. Now those are great but I am wondering if I can use my BT headphones for PC gaming. The top search result is actually this LTT forum post. There was a lot of skepticism as well as most results reference headphones specifically designed for PC gaming. If I were to pick up a BT dongle such as this one would I experience a lot of delay? Any better dongle recommendations? Thanks in advance.

  4. 17 minutes ago, Dankk said:

    If you have no intentions of overclocking then I say you would be fine with this. Honestly even that may be too much but I would go with something like that if you want your CPU cool while playing VR games.

    Will the Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO work? I forgot to mention that's currently installed.

  5. 1 minute ago, HayHay said:

    This isn't a necessity but maybe it would help with having "VR-Ready" IO? The HDMI ports at the front for the headset could be pretty useful.
    Also, like others said, the i7 4790k will be good for VR. Aside from that, your specs do look VR ready with that GPU!

    I never thought about the IO. Maybe there's a front 5.25 bay VR insert. My front panel has no HDMI cables ATM.

  6. I'm upgrading my PC to be VR ready because I'm ready to drop some money on a Vive. I currently have 12GB of RAM, a i3-4130 and a GTX 1060 6GB by Zotac. I'm already picking up 4GB more of RAM. What processor should I upgrade to? I plan on using Ebay or Craigslist since the LGA1150 platform is older. Any suggestions? Any other generic VR Gaming tips that would help? Thanks!

  7. 1 minute ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

    ok then i guess onto general troubleshooting then:

     

    after each step, check the result. if one step fixes it then great, if you go through ALL OF THIS, even the reinstall of windows then there is hardware level damage to the CPU or mobo

     

    run crystaldisk info and check drive health

    check ALL CABLES at BOTH ENDS

    reset CMOS

    remove the graphics card and try on the IGPU

    try the GPU in another system

     

    if the IGPU still has problems its probably not the GPU, if the IGPU has no problems then its graphics card related and you should probably try RMA it, but you can also try:

     

    run memtest 86, any errors mean that there is a problem with that RAM stick

    try each ram stick alone in the first slot

    reseat CPU

    check for any scratches or damage

    reinstall windows, clean

     

    Okay. I'll try these but all of my other games work well. It's only PUBG and MW2.

  8. I updated my Nvidia drivers to 388.71 a couple of days ago prior to experiencing the PUBG launch. I go to play PUBG, the game says, "Running..." for a couple of seconds and then acts like I never clicked play to start with. I would place this thread on a PUBG related forum, but I also have issues with other games now. When I try to launch Call of Duty: Modern Warfare 2, I see the main menu for a second and then my screen goes black but the game is still running and controllable. I also tried to play Battlefield 4 last night but was unable to connect to any servers due to Punkbuster kicking me the second I get into any games. I've rolled back to 388.59 and the problem still persists. I've also tried reinstalling PUBG, reinstalling Microsoft C++ files and looking up game specific no launch fixes. None of these work. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

  9. My brother just picked up a 1060 6GB from Zotac. My only worry though is that my PSU is not good enough to handle the power draw from it. With the new GPU installed, it will draw 259W under load according to CM PSU Calculator. My PSU is 700W so it should be fine however, I bought it when I was young and dumb and it's from Raidmax. Here it is. http://a.co/fmjDFxQ. It's enough wattage but I'm worried that the qualitiy isn't high enough. 

     

     

    When I posted the build on PCPartPicker someone replied,

    Spoiler

    So long as you are not pushing it things should be fine for some time to come. However the lower end PSU's (like this one) use cheaper parts and cut corners. Cheaper compasiters will blow caps when pushed too far, and some of the protections that will keep the mobo safe in the event of PSU failure will be skimped. This means a failure that would make you replace a high end PSU will make you replace the entire system with this PSU as nothing (or not enough) is keeping the other hardware safe. Also cheap PSU's are notorious for not meeting their output rating. For example a cheap PSU rated at 500w may only be able to hit 350w.

    I have never had a cheap PSU completely fail on me. However I had an enland gold PSU just to test parts with kill a HDD. When I looked everything over apparently the pins on the power connector were not separated correctly and arched frying the PCB on the HDD. People will give you all kinds of horror stories, most of them are exaggerations but as with most stories there is base truth.

    Unfortunately I cannot find any direct reviews (from places like Jonnyguru) on this PSU. So we are stuck going off of raidmaxes reputation which is not that good, though they do have a few good PSU’s like the RX-700AT.

    http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1812549/raidmax-blackstone-series-700ac-700w-work.html

    http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=470

     

  10. So my friend needs to upgrade his PC from a GT 730 and 6GB of RAM. I could pick up a GTX 750 TI + 2x4GB DDR3 for $100 on my local craiglist or just get a 1050/460 for $110. Do you think it's worth it to get the extra RAM but less GPU performance? Are the GPUs still similar in performance?

  11. 46 minutes ago, toastythomas said:

    Okay. Thank you. I'll let you know when everything is done.

    So I went through the program, did everything. Followed a guide. I booted from the new SSD and it gets a windows error and windows forces a restart. Then, when I try to boot from the old drive, everything works. Its like nothing happened. Not sure what happened.

  12. 1 hour ago, Lurick said:

    If you don't care about the contents at all, you could make a Windows installer for your version of Windows on the laptop, clone the 128GB to the 250GB and the install Windows on the 128GB drive after verifying everything.

    Okay. Thank you. I'll let you know when everything is done.

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