iM8Pizza

Hello I'm using an MSI Modern 14 with Ryen 7 5700U, 16gb of ram, 500gb of storage. It ships with W11 so that's why I have it, it's been smooth sailing apart from 3 instances where the wifi gone to eat brick (uninstalling driver then reinstalling it, then doing it over and over again until, somehow, it magically works), then the last time I had the issue, where I did what I usually do, but it still won't do anything, but it manages to connect to my phone hotspot somehow, but nothing else, I then let it be for 2 days of which then it finally works again. And today, the same thing is going on with the Bluetooth. The wifi and bluetooth module appear to be MT7921K/RZ608, the latter being what's reported in my laptop (they're basically the same, just different names). I have not found any other solution to this, other than the usual go to device manager then uninstall then install the driver back, Windows troubleshooter is still a garbagio, and the usual turn it off then on again. Thank you

Hi Aldar, "I'd love to get a new keyboard and prefer getting one that'd fit my needs as much as possible, even at a bigger price. Most stuff I can find just browsing local shops - In Czechia btw, cheers; offer only... Average, run of the mill keyboards. " Do you have any online stores that we can use to check on? one that you can order from easily, or are ones from Europe alone would be okay? if for the latter then you can check candykeys.com or mykeyboard.eu "I'd love a mechanical keyboard with replaceable Cherry MX brown keyswitches (Or a different brand of silent, tactile keyswitches), numpad, built-in USB hub, replaceable keycaps, media control keys [Preferrably dedicated, not as a second function of the F-row keys] and a backlight (Don't care if RGB or a static light really). " can you define more on what you mean by replaceable? all MX style switches are replaceable as long as you have a solder, if you want one without soldering then you need to be looking for a hotswap keyboard. any MX style switches has a standard keycaps stem, so they all have replaceable keycaps from this alone I can recommend you getting Ducky Shine series keyboard, Ducky Shine 4 or above (the newest one is 7 iirc), other than that I can recommend you getting HyperX Alloy Elite 2 "My endgoal is to have a keyboard where, if one single switch fails, I don't have to throw it the whole board away, and can just replace the switch. Yet where this wouldn't come at the expense of the functionality. " I'm sure every switches that's based off the MX switches are replaceable, so you should be good. May this answer help you, feel free to ask further

I can understand geo3 laugh on this one, the mechanical being too loud. You must be thinking only on clicky switches, there are silent mechanical switches as well if you're wondering, even then the usual linear switches like the red are no way near loud. If you stil don't want mechanical keyboards then I guess you can go for the new corsair or razer keyboards, that are membrane. thing with membrane keyboards is that they're just fine being a keyboard, but their rubber dome stiffens over time and the biggest down side of them all, once they break, you can't really change them, different compared to mechanical keyboards where you can change the switches individually and way more flavor to choose.

@Exentrick as long as you have a solder in hand, you can always change the switches. You don't stuck with Gaterons permanently as for OP, I second on what ramava said on the matter, I'd like to add that if you want to go even more budget, you can get Royal Kludge keyboards instead, they come in different sizes so that's up to your choosing. all I can say when getting into keyboards is that it's better to go in cheap first than to buy something expensive then regret it later, keyboards are very standardized as long as you're using MX style switches nowadays and almost anything on it can be changed (the case, the switches, the keycaps)

They should be fine tbh, you mean like you have to crank the volume up higher than on your laptop? or to the point you can't get same level of listening level as you would on your laptop? if it's the former, I don't think its a problem as long as it doesn't sound distorted, if the latter than yeah you might need an amp. If they somehow sound 'different' that it might be due to the ipad not outputting the same level of 'sound' as your laptop, if this is the case then play both at the same volume, do a log sweep (you can find many on youtube), go back and forth, and see if the two things output different sound or not. If you still really want a dac/amp dongle for your phone then try to get the MEIZU Hifi Pro USB-C phone dongle DAC and headphone amplifier, it's inexpensive and is surprisingly good https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/meizu-hifi-pro-usb-c-phone-dongle-dac-review.10423/ if you're with an iPad then the apple dongle is just fine as said Ahoy previously

I will quote 'Before you buy amp and DAC + recommendations.' Post here. I necessarily don't think you would need a DAC since I assume you can run those things just fine with no noise and at a listenable level. I would also recommend you to watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ

That's the schematic (I think, no it's not a schematic) that the seller provides. as for OPA2604, I can find them for $1+ish online so it's no biggie to get it after getting this particular cMoy. Thank you for that link, I will bookmark it for now, and maybe actually make them when I get a soldering station.

wah, Thanks for enlightening me further more on the matter, I know that NE5532 is an old opamp design, I read a bit about it, but didn't know that's what the average mainboard could do, which is probably where my motherboard lies. Anyway, on the subject of said opamp, it's replaceable, just unplug it and plug another (just in case you don't know from the description of the product, but sorry if you already know about it), any IC that you would recommend if I do indeed get it? on the subject of amplifier, I actually have a Fiio A1 that's currently at my brother's house, how does it compare and is it actually good for the matter of scaling well? (sorry for the lack of wording here). Fiio A1 amp uses TPA6130A2 and 74HC4052PW＋OPA2322AID for the bass boost function https://www.fiio.com/a1_parameters Cheers!

I see, thank you all for the replies. I bought a Superlux HD 330 (150 ohm 96db *can't find whether it's SPL/V or SPL/mW) couple of days ago and turns out my PC can run it just find, at the same volume as my other headphone Khastadio CS-01 (32 ohm), all directly plugged to my motherboard (ASrock B450M-HDV R4.0). Same case with my phone. So there's no need to get an amp, but the 'scale well' thing piqued my interest, and it seems, unfortunately, it needs to be tried out. So maybe I'll try out an amp, but honestly speaking i don't expect anything else other than it to color the sound and makes it goes louder, would a cmoy amp be nice to start with? it's pretty cheap, the one I'm looking at atm, only $10 basically. https://www.tokopedia.com/asoundco/cmoy-amplifier-headphone-with-bass-boost?whid=0 List Parts : 1. Metal film resistor 2. MKT Cap Pilkor (Korea) 3. MKM Capacitor 4. Elco Panasonic dan Jackson 6. Carbon Resistor and uses IC NE5532 opamp

Hello phellas, good day. I have a question regarding 'scales well', honestly not sure what that is, saw it couple of times when people talk about earphones and amplifier, like, "X scales well with an amp". So what does it mean by 'it scales well'. If said earphone can be heard just fine without an amp, doesn't it just makes it goes louder and adds coloration? Thanks, I'm just wondering, in now way I'm judging (badly) on these people that said it.

I would suggest getting a Coolermaster MH752/MH751, it's basically a rebranded Takstar Pro82 (which is really good, you can find plenty of reviews of it) with an addition of mic, difference between the 752 and 751 is that the 752 has 7.1 surround whilst the 751 is just a stereo, should you get one with 7.1 surround? not really, I won't pay more just for it, see the Audio Board FAQ for more info regarding that matter though.

There are fan splitters that will enable you to control them, albeit not individually to all of them. say you have 3 fan connected to 1 splitter, a change to that one splitter will affect 3 of the fans that's connected to it. I don't know how will RGB work for that but I've used it and had been able to change the fan curve with it. You can find fan splitters that are dirt cheap, they does the job, but I believe CoolerMaster use one of those RGB connectors too, I just did a quick search and found one made by them, just check what connection your fan has. btw, your part list is private

Depends on what kind of game you're playing, with what Slottr mentioned earlier, those will give a better sound compared to the razer hammerhead, and they will sound good with anything you're using it for (gaming, music, movie, stuff). Another factor will be considered if you're playing something that utilizes positioning, like an FPS shooter game so you can hear and point where the gunfire is coming from, if that's the case then you might want to look elsewhere, something that goes to your ear canal will have a very 'closed' stage giving you a meh (ok at best) positioning ques, if you're serious about that then you want a headphone instead. With all due respect, don't fall for the 'gaming' marketing, a good audio for your ears don't need gaming stamped on them

Aye that I understand, as for my case, be it my headphone or earphones, I can run them just fine from my PC. The i5 3rd gen paired with 2070 is just an example, since the i5 will most likely bottleneck it, it's an example for the question of improving soundstage by using DAC/AMP for smol bois, in this case, isn't the smol bois driver the bottleneck?

How long it will last for you is dependent on what you're gonna use it for, for productivity wise, you should be settled for video works, it will be comparatively (to new stuff) slower in the future but if you're fine with it as of now then you should be fine in the future. The main concern would be for gaming, since with the advancement of GPU/CPU improvement, new games will utilize those performances hence making it necessary to get a better system, but to what extend you're gonna need these also depends on you, one of the main thing to note here is at what resolution you're playing games at, if you're playing at 1080p then you should be fine for the quite the long years ahead, if you're playing at 4k however, upgrades need to be made along the way. It also depends on whether or not you want to be at best of the best graphical setting or if you're fine with scaling down the graphical settings. Because for reference, for the games that I play with the monitor I own, a 3rd gen i5 from way back years ago will go just fine. For upgrades, again, it depends on you, if you're fine with how it performs in the next few years, you should be just fine, the one thing that will be a matter of 'when' for upgrade is storage, since it will get filled up.