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Posts posted by Valikyr
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this may have tampered with things.
We're both running at about 10% load after we closed the benchmark. EDIT: No clue where it got that % from... I closed the benchmark and waited a bit and it was at 10%. It could have been ramped up because we both just closed a game and the history hadn't averaged out yet.
Why is he running Windows Server :facepalm:
No clue.
Both of you have stupid high background as it said. That completely invalidates any and all results
It's definitely not a huge amount. We're running at equal loads. EDIT: No clue where it got that % from... I closed the benchmark and waited a bit and it was at 10%. It could have been ramped up because we both just closed a game and the history hadn't averaged out yet.
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I'm talking about an i3-4150.
My friend and I built extremely similar PC's together. Mine mainly has an i3-4150 and an R9 280x. His an i3-4150 and an R9 290.
We noticed that I often got better performance than him on games even on a slightly-inferior card.
We did a benchmark, and here are the results:
Mine: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/342243
His: http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/342240
We both have no idea as to why his CPU score would be so much worse for the same CPU.
It may be worth noting that I'm running some form of Windows 7 and that he is running Windows Server 2012 R2.
Any and all answers are appreciated. Thanks!
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Try to take it out and push in one end at a time.
Thanks! I did this, and with a bit more recklessness, it pushed into place. I guess I was being too much of a wimp.
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I made a build courtesy of this board, and I'm assembling it, and the RAM won't go in.
I'm using am ASROCK H97M Anniversary MOBO and f3-1600c11s-8gnt RAM.
Yes, the slot is aligned and yes, I pulled the tabs back. The tabs are all at about an equal distance when pulled back.
All the pins line up, and once the ram reaches a certain point, it just won't go in any more. Even under an amount of force that causes light pain in my fingers, it won't go down.
I apologize, as this is likely the millionth edition of this exact question. Nothing fixed my problem, though.
Any and all replies are appreciated.
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DVI-I just has a few extra pinouts to support VGA adapters. If you're not adapting to VGA you don't need to worry about it, any regular DVI cable will still fit and work just fine.
So I connect a male DVI-D cable into a female DVI-I port?
run it from your GPU. (sorry if I sounded kind of like a dick before.)
You kinda did, but at least you followed up. Thanks!
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I don't see whats wrong with this? just buy a regular dvi cable?
I mentioned that this was a stupid question, lol. I just need to know, do I run the cable from my GPU or from my mobo?
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I'm going to be building a PC, (build courtesy of these forums ) and I need some help with the connections between my PC and my monitor.
This is an extremely stupid question, but I just don't want to mess anything up.
The graphics card I'm getting has a DVI-D port (this would be a female port, correct?) and my monitor has a DVI-I port (this would be female, correct?)
I need to connect the two, and I need every single cable, converter, etc. for the job. What do? Is there any tech limitations I should worry about with these ports?
Any and all replies are appreciated
EDIT: Will I be running a cable from my graphics card to my one monitor or will I run the cable from my mobo? My mobo has a DVI-D port already, so would that be the best option?
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here is a better build...
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i3-4150 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($104.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock H97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($68.98 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Team Elite Plus 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($56.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: HIS Radeon R9 280 3GB IceQ OC Video Card ($182.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Rosewill FBM-02 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($21.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($33.89 @ OutletPC)
Total: $517.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-22 17:27 EST-0500
its over the budget by like a couple of dollars..........
I believe that I'm going to be building this, but in a different case. Does everyone agree that this is good and will work?
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BAM! http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Tb2tRB
Vishera Processors are sick. I'm a huge fan of my 8350. You won't need a processor upgrade for a while, plus it is overclockable.
The FX-6300 is indeed sick.
This looks to be the best build so far, but I'm just worried that the rebates won't go though. It's not the end of the world if they don't, but still.
How easy is it to get rebates through?
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Hey, don't pull the trigger on anything yet, I'll try and concoct some crazy thing for you... be back in 10.
I'm not, crazy is what I'm waiting for.
broken link (got extra spaces)
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/LMcdzy
check that out. You want to overclock the crap out of that intel CPU.
Never overclocked before. I just don't want to have any issues with heat.
It seems like most people are in the same general area with builds, but I'll hold patient.
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Give me 15 minutes
CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($62.99 @ Amazon)CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Newegg)Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.89 @ OutletPC)Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280 3GB Double Dissipation Video Card ($164.99 @ Newegg)Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.98 @ Newegg)Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($23.99 @ NCIX US)Total: $499.80Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when availableGenerated by PCPartPicker 2015-02-22 17:15 EST-0500-$499.80- Aren't you a ninja.....
I'll let the thread sit for a bit and wait for a general consensus on what to do.
Welcome to the forums too
Remember to follow your own topics.
Of course! I don't want to be one of those people...
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With Windows?
No.
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broken link
Link doesn't work.
Fixed it, I was figuring out how this place works.
Welcome to the forum by the way!
Thanks! I wasn't expecting this many replies this fast, lol. Must be a good place.
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I need to build a PC for about $500 US Dollars. It will be used for gaming in general.
I don't need an OS, a monitor, a mouse, keyboard, etc.
My friend gave me this:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Tqtjgs
He said to make this, but replace the 860k with a 760k due to some incompatibilites. I also wanted to change the case to something that's in stock. Adding it all up, it came to about $515, including shipping and not including rebates.
I was just wondering if:
-The PSU can support everything safely
-If there is a better build for the same price
-If there is any incompatibilites
Any and all replies are appreciated. Thanks!
2 of the same CPUs running at different speeds
in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
Posted
I understand that we tested in an extremely unscientific environment.
The fact of the matter is that he consistently has worse performance than me, no matter what he does. If we spend time and come back with the same results, what will you chalk it up to?