wolfsbane3083

Looks like LMG are actively deleting any comments made on their "apology" video about Madison....

Honestly, In my case, as soon as a people started baking ads into their videos that was enough. I'm not sitting through Pre/Mid/Post Youtube ads on top of your Pre/Post inbuilt sponsors that make the ads as long if not longer than the video. In my opinion if you're in Youtube just for the money it goes against the spirit of what it was for in the first place. It was for people to upload silly video and a get a small kickback for doing so. It was never meant for people to be able to earn a living, let alone run a business through.

Hi, Sorry for the late reply. I could only recommend distilled water as tap water will still have minerals which could lead to corrosion or limescale. Although a flush with boiling tap water followed with a flush with distilled water may help remove any build up in the radiator with minimal risk of problems.

It's just a bit of oxidation formed from water droplets left in the radiator after leak testing in the factory. Should cause no problems after a flush and is just cosmetic. If it bothers you then the mayhems blitz cleaning kit would more than likely clean it up.

Highly recommend SYY-157, only stuff so far that's managed to tame my 3090 long term. MX-2/4 both ended up getting pumped out over a couple of weeks.

Got mine for MSRP a month after launch.

I would suspect either some kind of scaling issue or chroma sub-sampling. Have a poke around your monitor/gpu cotnrol panel and play with some settings, you can always restore defaults if it doesn't work. Some settings to look out for are: Monitor Pixel scaling - This should be 1:1 or Just scan (May be called something else) GPU Control Panel Output colour format - RGB preferably or YCBCR 444 if RGB isn't there Scaling - By Aspect Ratio with scaling controlled by your display Resolution - Check this is set to PC - 3840x2160, Nvidia cards have a tendency to set this to TV settings for 4k and it can mess things up

I have a 32G kit with my 5950x that runs at 3600Mhz with 18-19-19-19-39 XMP timings, manually tweaking the timings gets me 16-19-13-12-30 stable. I reverted back to XMP because I couldn't be arsed re-doing the timings after endless bios updates on my board. The faster timings made absolutely no discernible different in day-day use. Some benchmarks were a few percent lower but you don't play benchmarks

Unplug the PWM cable from the pump to the motherboard, this will make the pump run at full speed. I have almost the same motherboard, the pump barely moves with the default fan curves.

Hehe don't worry about the hardware, the case is full open and doesn't even have any fans in atm. Purely just testing it/getting everything set up. Have a cheapo 4u rackmount case, some 60mm chipset fans and other bits and bobs coming to turn it into a poor mans 8 bay NAS machine. The chipset cooler on this board is honking huge too this board was nuts back in the day.

Had to put it that was to pull some air through the chipset cooler, MCP was hitting 90c Lost the little fan for it years ago.

Found this old beast in storage: Q6600 @ 3.6Ghz 8GB DDR2 800 Zotac 9800 GT (Used to be SLI but the fan on the second card died) Dusting it off and I'm going to put it in a rackmount case as a NAS for a few 8TB Seagate drives I snagged off Amazon for £117 each

You'd have to get new fittings unfortunately. Hard tubing fittings are designed to compress the flat end of the tube into the fitting where-as soft tubing fittings are designed to compress the tube onto a barb. If you tried soft tubing in your current fittings they would pop out with the pressure of the loop.

Good news! Your voltages are perfectly fine, this is how XFR works on Zen 2. High voltages and clocks during quick/light tasks and lower voltages and clocks during extended/heavy tasks. As long as your per core voltages drop below 1.325v under a sustained heavy load like cinebenche your're golden.

Take a hairy dryer too it and warm it up a bit, then try twisting again.