VikingGaming

What game(s) it's affecting, and what mode you're using (windowed, borderless windowed, fullscreen) would be nice to know.

I have been struggling with an issue on several mobile devices now for a few months without finding a fix that actually works. I am connected to my WiFi on the 5Ghz bandwidth (almost completely free from interference by neighbors) with my Huawei P20 Pro (problem also exists on 2 HTC U11 devices). I am able to access the internet just fine, but if I leave my phone for a while (say, 30 minutes), it will show as connected, but it's then unable to contact the internet, and every app will say that I'm not connected. The only way to solve this is to turn the WiFi on and off again on my phone. I have checked every setting I can think off on all phones affected, but I can't seem to solve it by changing any of those. I am therefore led to believe that it is a configuration error with my router. The problem has persisted through several OS updates on the phones, as well as at least 2 firmware updates on the router. Setup: Phones: Huawei P20 Pro (Android 8.1) and HTC U11 (Android 7 I think) Router: Asus RT-N66U, Firmware: 3.0.0.4.380_8120 Band: 5Ghz, Bandwidth: 20/40Mhz, Control Channel: 40 Band 2: 2.4Ghz, Bandwidth: 20Mhz, Control Channel: 11 Any suggestions/input would be appreciated.

Should be an option for it in Razer Synapse 3, provided you have the most recent version. You also need to map it to a key of your choice, it's not a set default. You can map the function to any key you like.It's mentioned in the following thread over on Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/razer/comments/8bvtmf/hypershift/

That would be correct. But it gives a good idea what the company's worth is. Their income was listed at 800 000 000 NOK (98,568,000.00 USD) the same year (though I am not sure if that applies to the Norwegian part only, or if that includes the international aspect).

Just to put things into perspective; Telenor made just over 50 billion NOK (or 6,157,750,000.00 USD) in 2017.

Unrelated, as I always turn off the computer when I'm done with it. This started happening all of a sudden, and at boot my GPUs are at 35c. And the longer the screen is on, the more the specs fade away, until completely gone.

It's difficult to get across on pictures, I know. As mentioned in the post, they're white/gray. In the middle picture it sort of looks like specs of dust.

Hello everyone! The last couple of times I've started my Asus PG279Q monitor, it appears as if a whole bunch of pixels are temporarily stuck or dead. They appear white/grey and it spans across the whole display. It gets better the longer the monitor stays on, and they eventually go all back to normal. I was wondering if it might be something related to temperature? The room the monitor is in can get quite cold (about 15-20C (59-68F)). I tried my best to get pictures showing the problem, but I find it a little challenging to get good, clear pictures of monitors with my phone (I tried my best). The middle picture shows it the best. Pictures:

For 3D design and editing, I think you'd see a benefit having both cards in the system. Just note that SLI will not be possible, seeing as it's 2 different GPUs

Taken from Intel's official website: Thermal throttling occurs at TJMax, though the CPU will shut itself down if it cannot reduce the temperature.

IIRC, 100C is throttle, 115C is shutdown for newer Intel CPUs.

Might be bad caps on the GPU. That can happen over time.

It depends. Some phones will allow you to power them up without the battery, as the charging circuit bypasses the battery (feeding power to both the phone directly as well as the battery), like some laptops do. Though you may have to have the battery in the phone for it to actually work. I used to have an old Nokia that would turn on without the battery installed as long as I connected it to the charger.

See if you could find a cheap GTX 760, those are pretty decent cards. I used to have a 760 in my rig and played quite a bit of CSGO with it with good framerates. It could also run BF4 on ultra with around 40-60 FPS. If you're going used, make sure the card is working. Ask for proof of it doing so, either via screenshots that can be dated, or in-person.

It's really nothing to worry about IMO. I do not personally have experience with Acer motherboards, so I'd suggest looking in the manual or searching on Google