Hackentosher

The manufacturers (even the cheaper ones) know pretty well what they are doing and if your GPU only comes with one 8-pin connector than that is the way it was intended by the manufacturer. So nothing to worry about here.

if your load is higher than 1800W, then yes it'll trip
 
a transformer changes the voltage, but doesn't change the power output (reduce it a lil due to efficiency but yea)

So the 18-55 is your only aps-c lens? Id get a 6d then. The 18-55 isn't a reason to stay on aps-c in my view.
 
 

Yeah eBay is quite a gamble. I bought a 6D from there and it came with a scratched sensor. I would highly recommend used photo retailers like UsedPhotoPro (used arm of Roberts Camera) and MPB. I would avoid KEH as they don't really show you what you're buying, but the other two are good. They tend to have more selection and lower prices than the used sections at B&H and Adorama.
I think if you guys can make one of these two work, it would be a good choice.
Do you only have EF-S glass?

Raspberry pi os should have a package manage with apt, have you tried using that? 
 
You should be able to change the DE if you want by installing different ones with apt.

Doesn’t sound like much of a friend if they’re DDOSing you. 

I think I've seen that reset circuit before, but in whatever research I did before I built my board, it didn't come up as necessary (mine is just wired direct from RTS/DTR to IO0/EN). I'll have to see if I can put a discrete version together to see if that fixes it. Thanks for the suggestion!

I edited my post, as I found the forum thread that talked about the screwdriver and its appearances.
The "big project" stuff the thread talks about could also be the mousepads.

weren't they working on a screwdriver in the past?
they showed it in a build stream, kind of mysteriously
 
EDIT: with the knowledge we have today, the "big project" could definitely be the mousepads too, but we can see a screwdriver too (the ratchet in his orange one broke if I remember correctly).

Level your bed, ensure your first layer isnt too high/underextruded. https://www.instructables.com/How-to-Calibrate-the-3D-Printer-Bed-Levelling/

Another thing we don't know is how much current (and thus power) the strip is expecting. A couple amps is probably fine, but beefy LEDs can pull tens of amps.
 
Practically speaking, I don't think I've seen a 5m LED strip pull more than about 2A (24W at 12v) so you're probably fine.

72 Watts divided by 12 Volts is 6 Amps.
What kind of led-strip is it? Depending on type it might be tight, but it looks like its powerful enough.
Since most led-strips max out at 1A per meter on 12V
What @Hackentosher is saying we need more info to correctly asses that!

Do you really want to use a single LED? Otherwise, having some of those in series could make up for it.

The 80 is for sure, but it's certainly good enough for basic soldering. The 100 is a beast when powered by 24V (6s lipo) and can supply up to 65W. I've spent a lot of time with the 100s, the main issue I have with them is the default firmware isn't great (but you can fix that) and that it doesn't come with a stand. You absolutely need somewhere to put your iron when you put it down. Looking past those pitfalls, it's a great little iron that is able to do fine SMD work up to heavy power electronics (I think the largest I'd go is two 14awg wires, beyond that the tiny stock tip struggles to deliver a lot of heat). Also the interface is better than the Hakko FX888D, but then the Hakko is more comfortable to use.

Source: Used both for hundreds of hours at work.

If you want something to last you a long time, get a soldering station with adjustable temperature control.  You want one with an actual temperature sensor in the tip and proper temperature control, not those sticks or cheap stations that just control the amount of power sent to the tip, without actually measuring the temperature.
 
Hakko 936 clones and modernized designs of that ancient soldering station are fine, you'll find replacement tips easily and spare parts.
As a beginner you'll rarely change tips so don't be so concerned about it.
 
In US, Newark  (it's Farnell in other regions) rebrands some soldering stations under their Tenma brand and they're decent and cheap:
21-19800 - Tenma - Soldering Station, 24 V, 900°F
21-10115 - Tenma - Soldering Station, 110 VAC, 896 °F
21-19750 - Tenma - Temperature Controlled Soldering Station
 
The first link is cheap but only 35w, which means it will take longer to get up to temperature, and will work harder to keep the tip to configured temperature, compared to 60-75w stations. For a beginner it would still be fine.
 
The Yihua 939d+ from Amazon seems OK, and as it's shipped from Amazon it should get to you in reasonable time.
A plus with the Newark models... while a bit more expensive... you do get good warranty and you can also add good quality solder and flux to your order.
 
Good solder is a must, aim for lead based solders, you should still be able to buy them in US, here in Europe only companies are allowed to buy leaded solders these days. Ideal would be 63/37 solder, the 60/40
 
Liquid flux really really helps, even if solder actually has flux inside, adding a drop of flux before soldering or desoldering something really helps and makes soldering much easier.
 

"Best" is pretty subjective and very much money dependent. What's your budget? Are you looking for active or passive speakers?

If someone was going to stab and murder you, not wearing headphones likely wouldn't have saved you.
 
EDIT:
 

That thing looks pretty sad.. 
 
Welcome back!

The transformer looked like it melted some to me

Sounds like your nozzle is too close. You probably also ground a nice notch into the filament, so I would pull out the material to cut off about 10mm and then follow this guide https://youtu.be/ED1Gxvw2Rmw

How much does it cost to ship the alarm clock? Could you find an alternative from somewhere else? In my experience, given the choice between buying something not ridiculously expensive and building one myself, I usually find that it's cheaper in the long run to just buy the damn thing especially if I don't know exactly how to build what I want. If you value your time at all, it becomes much more expensive to build it yourself because it's time you could have spent on something else.
 
That said, you could probably do it with an arduino and some circuitry, or a raspberry pi. I found these guides in a quick search, take a look. https://circuitdigest.com/microcontroller-projects/raspberry-pi-based-jarvis-themed-speaking-alarm-clock 
https://circuitdigest.com/microcontroller-projects/arduino-based-text-to-speech-converter#:~:text=Text-to-speech or TTS,text in a human voice
A benefit of the RPi solution is you have access to the internet and thus the correct time at all times.

Yo the Art and Color Punch series would make good desk mats... I'd be interested if you ran a group buy.

wht softwre do you know? What protocols? Id personally just run debian on it, but its really up to you. 
 
That hba you listed should work. But be warned some of those laptops won't work with anything else in their wifi/pcie slots, so its kinda a luck of the draw here.
 
Id probably just run the drives via usb as its garanteed to work.
 

Oh boy, I'm not overly familiar with the Jumper, but if it supports FR-Sky receivers and your quad supports one too, you're good.
No. Not without scrapping all of its electronics.
As in TBS Crossfire? Crossfire is just a radio module that operates at a lower frequency to enable much longer range flights. Model management is handled by your radio such as the Jumper.
Plug into a sim first, learn the controls. An FPV drone is a completely different beast from anything DJI, you're completely on your own. You make all the adjustments and that the computer does on a DJI.
Look up Josh Bardwell's videos on the T18
Not sure what you mean by this, but it sounds like some marketing stuff
probably just a compatible receiver, but I'm not familiar with that particular aircraft.
 
Hope this helps, but google is a much better resource.
 

Why the fuck would he need programming skills?
I suggest using KiCAD and starting with something Pro Micro/Teensy based. You will save on a lot of complexity both in designing the board and producing it. I'm not sure why you need an "industry grade 3D printer", and someone like JLCPCB can get you five PCBs for like $20 (excluding shipping and potentially any SMD components and assembly, if you need it).
 
There are some good guides around but I'm happy to help as I've done probably two dozen keyboard PCBs.