Hackentosher

The internal GPU is currently faster due to highly unoptimizable code in our patched driver, plus the x1 Gen 2.0 bandwidth available. I hope we can at least get a feature like H.264 transcoding working because that could actually make these older GPUs useful again 🙂

You would probably need a python script that could grab your GPU clock from whatever windows service. From there, there are serial libraries for python that can be used to talk to an arduino.
 
Edit: this thread looks helpful, maybe the pywin32 library can access real time gpu clock speed. https://stackoverflow.com/questions/38103690/get-system-informationcpu-speed-total-ram-graphic-card-model-etc-under-window

The thing is that:
- You need to know the exact panel model, the best way is to look at the markings on it. Maybe you could find that information somewhere else.
- The display cable is usually custom and specific to a laptop model, so a controller board you'd find that's compatible with that panel would likely need to be connected straight to the panel and not to the cable that sticks out. 
 
IF you could find the panel model and an appropriate cable then you could leave it as is, but it's pretty unlikely you will.

You need bearings to support the wheel and the wheel supporting the weight of the scooter and rider. You could probably find a bearing with the same 22 mm OD with a wider ID to fit your motor's shaft. Try Fast Eddy Bearings or McMaster.

its a legit site, 100% would say its safe. its mostly just a Camera and audio store. Similar to how B&H was before they changed into more

Honestly at that range, the only printer thats worth a damn is the Creality Ender 3 and even then you gonna need some upgrades to make them a plug STL and print endeavor.

The battery has a spade terminal, it is not supposed to have a bolt go through it.  Crimp a female spade terminal to your wire and simply slide it on.

Dude they don’t emit enough to cause an issue. The trying to heat up the terminal enough to get a good bond is the issue. Also I wouldn’t permanently attach anything to a battery.  Just use a bolt 

The battery will sink all the heat away, so the terminal won't get hot enough for the solder to flow properly. Even if you can somehow get it hot enough without damaging the battery, you'll be left with a relatively weak joint. If it's going into something like a bike or scooter, the wire will flex and eventually fail at the point where the solder stopped wicking up between the strands. (Almost everything in automotive wiring is crimped for that reason.)
 
The right way is to put matching connectors on the wires, usually spade terminals, eye terminals (the kind that look like washers), or clamps (like a car or motorcycle battery).

Hearing ad reads from Ridge Wallet is exhausting. The company has AT MOST $10 in supply and labor costs to manufacture their wallets, based on what it would cost me to purchase the supplies and build an identical wallet. It's two pieces of metal and an elastic band, and if they didn't charge an 800% mark-up, they wouldn't have to spend so much money on advertising. 

I dont think linus particularly cares for teamviewer.

For that application, I would strongly recommend a fuse because they're dead nuts reliable and I believe they can be faster than breakers. The size of the circuit interrupter depends on the lowest maximum continuous current consumption of any one device in the power system. For example, if your battery can safely deliver 100 A but your motor controller can only consume 40 A, then I would put a 40 A fuse between the battery and motor controller.

For that application, I would strongly recommend a fuse because they're dead nuts reliable and I believe they can be faster than breakers. The size of the circuit interrupter depends on the lowest maximum continuous current consumption of any one device in the power system. For example, if your battery can safely deliver 100 A but your motor controller can only consume 40 A, then I would put a 40 A fuse between the battery and motor controller.

You want a fuse/breaker anytime an overload or short would lead to catastrophic results...

There's some chinese lga 2011 boards that seem pretty good, linus did a video on one of them. The only thing is that FreeBSD can be a little picky with hardware, so I would look for a thread on the Truenas forum for the specific board you're looking to use. Otherwise I would go to ebay and pick up a 2011 board, preferably a server board. 
 

You can search on Amazon as good as we can. They haven't been close to MSRP in a long while now. 

can be done with braid, but de soldering pen would be easier. sometimes adding a bit of fresh leaded solder to the joint will make it easier to melt and remove.

DT 770

I'd wager quite the opposite, it's almost certainly a jelly bean part from MOLEX or similar that an engineer found for whatever the connector is used for.
 
OP, you should probably start by measuring the pin pitch (center to center distance). Then, go to Digikey or your parts vendor of choice and filter by that pin pitch and number of pins. You can try to narrow it down a bit by adding features, like it's a surface mount connector, and it has a latch (meaning it's a locking connector). Hopefully you can find it, you can also maybe try r/printedcircuitboard or r/askelectronics to try to find the exact part. Once you find it, you can find the mating connector too.

You can power a ts100 on a 2-6s lipo battery. That's my second favorite soldering iron behind a Hakko FX888d.

He's probably after some current transformer. Hall effect sensors are less accurate so you'd normally only use those for DC (when a current transformer is no option).
 
Regardless of what sensor this is about, to make a power meter you also need to register the voltage, so you're going to have to connect to a live wire anyway, so I don't really see the point of a non-invasive sensor. 

That is almost certainly a custom injection molded or extruded part made by whoever made that board. Best bet is to 3d print a replacement if that's what you're looking for.

But a dead for parts cpu off eBay that’s the same socket
or just rma the cpu

why would you even do that

They're probably referring to these. Some power resistors are basically big blocks of cement (for its thermal mass) and some are normal resistors encased in a heatsink to dissipate more heat. The latter are common in automotive LED headlight conversion kits because LEDs don't pull as much current as a normal lightbulb, so you need to add a parallel resistor to make the headlight computer think that there is in fact a light bulb connected.
https://www.google.com/search?q=power+resistor&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi5wqnO59nyAhXcJjQIHXLhDSgQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1536&bih=722#imgrc=2L9OIMVUsNTiHM 
 
One last note that seems relevant: Real resistors have tolerance. You will usually see a resistor sold as resistance +/- x%. This specifies the maximum allowable tolerance for that specific resistor. For example if you buy a 100 ohm resistor with 5% tolerance, it can be either 95 ohms or 105 ohms or somewhere in between. Also realize that if you're buying the cheap ones, you wont get exactly the value because the manufacturer will filter out the parts that are closer to the right value and sell those at a premium.