Hackentosher

something like this should do https://www.ebay.com/itm/281768704865

It took me a while to realize that a pi is a computer just like the one you're using to view this thread. What makes the pi special is it's so small and cheap, but it also has peripherals that a normal computer doesn't. A normal computer doesn't have the camera ports, i2c, spi, and gpio breakouts that the pi does, which makes the pi very interesting for a lot of projects that need the processing capabilities of a full computer and operating system, but with the hardware connectivity of something lower level like an Arduino.

Can't you just use audacity? there's probably an API for it as well. Also for Raspberry Pi specific help, there is a pi forum https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/ One thing I've learned in my projects and work is that very few things you might want to do have never been done before, and someone has probably run into the same problem that you did and asked about it somewhere. Google is your friend.

Maybe a vfd into a rewound variac? I hope you know what you’re doing.

How did you deduce that this extension cord was the problem? I have a hard time believing that this issue is the fault of the mains connection because of how ATX power supplies work. There is extensive filtering and protections built in to your power supply that make rock steady voltage rails. In addition, I imagine if there was an instability in the output of your power supply, you would observe much more violent glitches (hard crashes and resets is what I would expect). To answer the actual question, 12AWG and 14AWG refers to the cross sectional area of the wires in these cables. The lower the number, the larger the cross section, the lower the resistance, and thus the larger the power handling capability. What size you need really depends on what you are powering on the other end of the cable, but iirc 14AWG cables are good for 10A or 1200W continuous load. I pulled this number out of my ass so definitely check it before you take it as truth. If you want to understand wire sizing in general (well, it's more about American breakers but covers current handling of wire) I recommend this video from Technology Connections

It looks like you may need to continue tuning your extrusion settings, this guide from simplify3d may be helpful https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/. In your first picture, it looks like there's a bit of over extrusion, so I would dial back your flow percentage parameter a tiny bit. Then your infill is underextruding, I think that may be printing too fast for the extruder to keep up. Poorly tuned extrusion settings can cause extrusion to not adhere where the printer intended, or delamination, and cause the blob we see in your third image. Keep trying things, but importantly, write down what you try so you don't try an incorrect recipe again later (ask me how I know lol).

I resisted diving in to this conversation in my first post on this thread because the question was about a clock not whether RF is harmful. I can see it quickly spiraling out of control and wanted to post this video from respected electrical engineer Mehdi Sadaghdar debunking 5G conspiracies, and thus general RF misinformation, before the thread gets locked. The content of this video also goes into how the EM radiation from sunlight is vastly higher frequency and higher energy than even some of the highest power radio sources in our daily lives, and we're all fine. In general I think it provides a bit of context on some of the physics that make our modern wireless world possible and I recommend watching it in its entirety. He also listed his sources in the description. OP, I'm sorry you had a cancer case in your family and I am happy to hear of a speedy recovery, but you made a lot of claims in your last post without a scrap of support. Do you have any citations backing them? You are free to rid your home of wireless devices and I can respect that, but as @mariushm pointed out, your home is already bombarded with RF across the spectrum. Hell, you even suggested solving your alarm clock problem but getting a clock that receives a radio broadcast to synchronize. Putting your phones in a faraday cage wont change the ambient radiation in your home. If you wanted to, you could get an RF spectrum analyzer and measure the difference for yourself. I am very interested if you do have any scientific papers exploring potential links between RF and cancer, as I am an electrical engineering student currently working in the EMI lab of one of the world's largest Aerospace contractors. If you have any resources, I'd love to read them and continue a civil discussion that is not built on unsupported claims, but we're getting pretty off topic from clocks pretty quickly

one of these could do lol https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14830 A 32.768KHz crystal and a 16 bit counter makes for a rather accurate 1pps source to drive a clock, if you wanted to build it yourself. This is how most quartz based clocks and wrist watches work. As @Freakwisementioned, I would avoid a clock that sources its pps signal from the wall as the grid can fluctuate in frequency depending on the load at any given moment. A crystal based clock should be sufficient.

Could need to tighten up the idler on the extruder, otherwise you're probably printing too fast for a given nozzle temp. Also check if the hobbed gear is filled with filament shavings. One thing you can try is to push or pull material in and out of the material while the steppers are on, but not moving. If the feeder has a good grip on the material, it should be very difficult to move the filament in the extrusion path by hand.

Fusion 360 if you're not commercial and can work around the free version limitations. If you can get a student license (haven't had to apply for a student account in a while, usually they don't look too close), definitely do it. Otherwise, FreeCAD is kinda taking the maker world by storm after the licensing change with Fusion because it is FOSS. If you're new to CAD and just learning, I would probably start there, but in my experience (and bias) Fusion is more intuitive.

No piece of test gear is perfect. There may be noise in the amplifiers, there may be some EM energy the leads are picking up from the environment. Usually when open circuit, these things are not that big of a deal. Also your probes are very imperfect. Measure a resistor on a board and watch the measurement fluctuate when you wiggle the probes around on the part. Also a 0.002k fluctuation is 2 ohms. I wouldn't classify that as a lot, that's 1%. Most resistors are +/-5% anyway.

I’ve seen it done before with one of these. Takes 12v dc and spits out tall the other voltages a motherboard needs. Idk how much tolerance there is on the input, but a 3s pack would work for a while before the voltage dropped too low. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WDG49S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E7YJ0632XX8SEA253E0P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It really depends, but that's pretty slow for most materials. I usually print about 50-60mm/s. Look up some recommended print settings for the material you're using.

I think you could do it, so long as you can work out how to convert your audio into packets and then decode them back to something you can spit out through a DAC, it should be pretty doable.