Hackentosher

It sounds like you're looking for a hall effect current probe. I have never seen one with an audio style connector, but it will probably output an analog signal which a Pi can't natively read. You'll need to supply your own ADC to read that analog signal and then do some math to convert it to a current.

Oh you mean like a purge block? Why not just use the default? Otherwise I guess I’d just print benchies of varying size lol.

The Quick hot air stations are really good. I think it's the 957DW+ that I have in my lab, can't beat it at $100.

Honestly I would just try to find the footprint on SnapEDA.

ya she's fuckt m8. Inside that chip was a bunch of silicon that is doped with probably arsenic and/or germanium (meaning individual atoms of dopants mixed into the silicon lattice). This silicon and dopant mixture was arranged in a very specific configuration to hold a matrix of individual bits. All of this was carefully sealed in black epoxy, with tiny wires connecting the matrix to a grid of contacts on the bottom of the chip. These were solder points that attach the chip to the board. At these points was a tiny fleck of solder, but since the RoHS standard, there is no lead in modern consumer electronics, including the solder. In short, there's no lead or mercury. I hope that RAM was already dead because it sure as shit is now.

They're probably referring to these. Some power resistors are basically big blocks of cement (for its thermal mass) and some are normal resistors encased in a heatsink to dissipate more heat. The latter are common in automotive LED headlight conversion kits because LEDs don't pull as much current as a normal lightbulb, so you need to add a parallel resistor to make the headlight computer think that there is in fact a light bulb connected. https://www.google.com/search?q=power+resistor&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi5wqnO59nyAhXcJjQIHXLhDSgQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1536&bih=722#imgrc=2L9OIMVUsNTiHM One last note that seems relevant: Real resistors have tolerance. You will usually see a resistor sold as resistance +/- x%. This specifies the maximum allowable tolerance for that specific resistor. For example if you buy a 100 ohm resistor with 5% tolerance, it can be either 95 ohms or 105 ohms or somewhere in between. Also realize that if you're buying the cheap ones, you wont get exactly the value because the manufacturer will filter out the parts that are closer to the right value and sell those at a premium.

So the power rating of a resistor is the maximum power that resistor can dissipate before it burns. The power dissipated by a resistor is equal to the voltage dropped across that resistor multiplied by the current flowing through it. Using some Ohm's law substitution, we can also find that the power dissipated is equal to the voltage dropped across the resistor squared divided by the resistance, or the current through the resistor multiplied by the resistance. In your 10w parallel circuit, assuming the voltage remains constant, the two resistors will each pull the same current and dissipate the same amount of power, so I guess your analysis is practically correct. At first read I was a little confused because it seemed like you were saying the power handling of an individual resistor can change depending on its configuration which is not the case. However, from a modeling perspective you can do this by combining resistors. I hope this didn't create more questions than it answered, but I'll be happy to answer more. When resistors are in series, you have to be aware of the voltage dropped across each resistance in the series, and the power dissipated by each compared to each individual rating. Say you have a 5W and a 1W resistor in series, you have to check (using P=V^2/R) that the power dissipated by the 1W will not exceed 1W and the same for the 5W.

It’s weird, in practice they do the opposite. When combined with rev hang from modern engines, it’s much harder to shift smoother and removes a lot of feel from the clutch. On my golf you could either shift smoothly or shift quickly, but never both.

But they don't. If they're supposed to slow down the slave when the pedal gets released too quickly, they fail. At least in my golf, all it did was make it very difficult to shift smoothly and quickly at the same time. I bought the car in March having maybe driven stick for 200 miles, put 5000 miles on it since then, and it really just felt like I was driving in hard mode for no reason. I don't get it.

Are clutch delay valves common in modern manual transmissions? I took the valve out of my golf last night and the car is so much easier to drive now. Really doesn't make sense to make a car drive objectively worse from the factory.

The Art of Electronics is pretty widely regarded as the holy text of practical electronics. It covers the underlying theory that’s important for understanding the interesting stuff. But it does place emphasis on more practical knowledge and circuits.

Iirc there’s a new pocket nc that is more rigid than the standard, might fit the bill.

My UT210-E has a phenomenally accurate DC current clamp. I truly wasn't expecting it to do so, but it was accurate to within 100mA iirc.

Pocket nc would do. Otherwise I think you could get a tormach could be had for under 10k.

Good PCB layout is generally accepted to be about 80% layout and 20% routing. Good designers group and orient components on their boards as best they can to simplify trace routing. Every PCB layout tool I've seen and used displays what's called a ratsnest, or a network of straight lines denoting which component pads are to be connected to each other. It's built on the board's netlist, but it shows designers what needs to be connected where. Good design minimizes the number of crossings of ratsnest lines in a given layout, but as boards get more and more complex, it becomes inevitable. This is why multi-layer boards, blind and burried vias, and double sided pick and placing exist. Unfortunately (to my knowledge anyway) there's not much canon knowledge or books about how to layout boards. There are IPC specs, but most EE and CompE books and education cover more of the physics going on behind circuitry, or the science in computation. The knowledge of how to layout a board generally is passed down from senior engineers to juniors and from experience. There is some transfer of knowledge between physics knowledge and board layout, most of this is wrt EMC best practices, but most of the art of layout is learned hands on, often through trial and error. If you want to learn more and get started in laying out your own boards, have a look at Contextual Electronics' guide to KiCAD, but I wouldn't recommend trying to build a board right now due to the silicon shortage.

eh? https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=ender+3+enclosure&type=things&sort=relevant

Ender 3 ticks all the boxes

Cr10s v4? Really good machine but I’m not sure about auto leveling. Maybe I’m old school, but I think knowing how to quickly and effectively level a bed with a sheet of paper is an important skill. It helps get the bed at least close enough for a half decent auto leveler to finish the job. you could also upgrade your ender 3 with a bl touch and a pei coated build sheet to help those first layers. Remember that the voron project is an open source grass roots initiative. There’s no company pushing development, it’s enthusiasts. I don’t think dual extrusion is really in the ethos of the voron project so I wouldn’t count on it coming to the project. Also the point of the voron project is to build the best printer possible using the highest quality components. The highest quality components will remain expensive due to the nature of their manufacturing. They may get a little cheaper, but I wouldn’t expect to be able to build a 350mm 2.4 for the price of an ender 3 any time soon.

I mean probably anything with an internet connection, but for school specifically I love my XPS 15. Thing is built like a tank, good screen, great processor, upgradability, and good battery life (when the cells are new of course). Yeah they're expensive, but I got 15 in my freshman year of college and, with the exception of the battery, it looks and feels just like the day I bought it. Honorable mentions go to Thinkpads, similarly well built with good screens and keyboards. I recognize these are both very expensive options but lordy are they worth it.

with a bit of basic arduino work and a strip of WS2812 LEDs you could get the desired effect in about 20 minutes and $50. As for off the shelf solutions, maybe phillips hue?

I've been putting together an excel sheet based on the sourcing guide for a 350mm 2.4 and dang, even ordering parts from aliexpress is adding up. There's just over $100 in hardware. $100 in nuts and bolts!! I'm fortunate enough to be able to afford one (barely), but I don't think I print enough stuff to justify the cost. Add it to the list of things to buy when I have more disposable income, but for now: Window shopping.

I'm not certain because I am not in the business of selling 3d printers or kits, but I would imagine it is because there isn't a plentiful source of these printed parts, it's more grass roots. You can go to a ton of shops on Aliexpress and buy the linear rails, fancy steppers, hotends, etc to build a voron, but none of those shops carry the printed parts (at least right now). If the demand for the voron increases, which I think it is (hell, I really want to build a 300mm V2.4 or a V0), I think we may start seeing these parts included or even being injection molded. I know the Print It Forward program that the Voron community has sets high standards for the parts made and maybe the shops that are selling kits know they can't meet these standards, at least not at a reasonable cost. I'm battling with this question myself, and I have a lot of thoughts surrounding the Voron project. I'll put them in a spoiler to keep from cluttering the thread.

The Ultimaker 3 fits your requirements perfectly, but be prepared to shell out some coin. If it were my money, I'd rather get a Prusa i3 Mk3s or build a Voron 2.4 and get about 5 year of filament with the money I saved. Dual extruders are really hard to pull off, even Ultimaker (who imo have the best and most reliable implementation) don't have it exactly nailed down. Modern 3d printers (and more importantly, slicers) are so good these days that you can get astonishing overhangs and remarkable results with supports printed in the same material. In my experience, soluble and special breakaway filaments kinda suck and aren't worth the extra cost.