Hackentosher

On 11/21/2022 at 10:29 PM, GoodBytes said:

Simple. You copied data from NTFS drive to another NTFS drive, and now you are on a new install of Windows.

All to say, the file permissions have been carried over but the SID's don't exist in the new installation.

I'm not on a new copy of Windows, I copied the contents of my boot disk to an external drive as a backup, placed the boot disk back in my laptop, and re-powered on. My hunch is somewhere in that process some config file(s) got moved or deleted that borked permissions across the install. It's probably not worth it to track down the specific issue over nuking this install.

I'm not familiar with SIDs, are those configurations I can fix?

On 11/21/2022 at 10:29 PM, GoodBytes said:

Programs should be reinstalled, not transferred, and data should be cleared of their permissions if you are doing this (well, set permissions to: Everyone)

I've tried reinstalling a couple of programs, but this has had inconsistent effects. MobaXterm showed no change after a reinstall, but I remember Chrome and some others being buggy after the water incident until I reinstalled. 

So a while ago my laptop had an encounter with water while powered off. Before powering on, I removed the SSD and copied its contents to an external drive to be safe. I was able to dry the laptop well enough and it booted and worked fine, but ever since that incident many programs have weird behaviors. Some of them wont run at all unless given admin rights, some have limited functionality without admin rights. For example, my terminal program MobaXterm can't open any new sessions beyond favorited sessions, or KiCAD can't find my custom part libraries without admin rights. Updating/reinstalling these programs has not fixed the issue, the only thing I can think to do is reformat and reinstall windows, but I would like to avoid that if I can.

Has anyone ever seen this kind of behavior before and found a fix for it?

if you connected them in parallel it would be 12 V 20 A. 

If you run a 24 pin to it it might turn on.

You would probably need a python script that could grab your GPU clock from whatever windows service. From there, there are serial libraries for python that can be used to talk to an arduino.

Edit: this thread looks helpful, maybe the pywin32 library can access real time gpu clock speed. https://stackoverflow.com/questions/38103690/get-system-informationcpu-speed-total-ram-graphic-card-model-etc-under-window

You need bearings to support the wheel and the wheel supporting the weight of the scooter and rider. You could probably find a bearing with the same 22 mm OD with a wider ID to fit your motor's shaft. Try Fast Eddy Bearings or McMaster.

The caps will be fine so long as the voltage across them doesn't exceed their rating. However, if the circuit was not designed to be used/implemented how you plan to, you need to do your due diligence to that this is the case. 

Vorons are super cool and I'm considering building one myself, but what's holding me back is that it's a project not a tool. Personally, I really need a 3D printer to be a tool to work on other projects. For that reason when the time comes, I'll probably be replacing my dead Ultimaker with a Prusa i3 or Prusa XL. The other thing about the Voron is to build it properly you need to spend more than just the Formbot kit. Proper Voron 2.4 builds cost $1300-$1700 if you don't cut any corners, which puts them right around where the Prusa XL is. If you're okay with that and willing to put in the work, I'm sure you could build a kickass Voron.

For that application, I would strongly recommend a fuse because they're dead nuts reliable and I believe they can be faster than breakers. The size of the circuit interrupter depends on the lowest maximum continuous current consumption of any one device in the power system. For example, if your battery can safely deliver 100 A but your motor controller can only consume 40 A, then I would put a 40 A fuse between the battery and motor controller.

On 1/12/2022 at 10:19 AM, KingTdiGGiTTy said:

I personally cannot recommend those.

What was you experience like? I'm pretty curious, but I usually dismiss them in favor of platforms with more modern features and lower power consumption.

There's some chinese lga 2011 boards that seem pretty good, linus did a video on one of them. The only thing is that FreeBSD can be a little picky with hardware, so I would look for a thread on the Truenas forum for the specific board you're looking to use. Otherwise I would go to ebay and pick up a 2011 board, preferably a server board. 

Seems to me you should try to find a good compromise with your dad for peripherals. That seems like the most elegant solution to me.

Define R5 is probably the correct answer (i think i'll migrate my server from my old NZXT case to an r5 soon-ish). I've also been eyeing the silverstone CS381, but it's pretty expensive.

Probably could find a QFN or QFP part and then throw it into a socket or solder it to a DIP breakout PCB. Here's some sockets/breakouts on adafruit that might do the business https://www.adafruit.com/?q=qfp+breakout&sort=BestMatch  

Honestly a Viofo A119 is so cheap and so good it's probably not worth it to try to DIY.

21 hours ago, RONOTHAN## said:

It's on a GPU, so it's more than likely something proprietary. 

 

Why do you ask?

I'd wager quite the opposite, it's almost certainly a jelly bean part from MOLEX or similar that an engineer found for whatever the connector is used for.

OP, you should probably start by measuring the pin pitch (center to center distance). Then, go to Digikey or your parts vendor of choice and filter by that pin pitch and number of pins. You can try to narrow it down a bit by adding features, like it's a surface mount connector, and it has a latch (meaning it's a locking connector). Hopefully you can find it, you can also maybe try r/printedcircuitboard or r/askelectronics to try to find the exact part. Once you find it, you can find the mating connector too.

Really unclear what is trying to be accomplished, can you clarify what you want to happen and how?

Prusa Mini and the box it came in for the enclosure. I believe it uses trinamic drivers and noctua fans like the full size i3 mk3s so it should be quiet.

You can power a ts100 on a 2-6s lipo battery. That's my second favorite soldering iron behind a Hakko FX888d.

That is almost certainly a custom injection molded or extruded part made by whoever made that board. Best bet is to 3d print a replacement if that's what you're looking for.

It sounds like you're looking for a hall effect current probe. I have never seen one with an audio style connector, but it will probably output an analog signal which a Pi can't natively read. You'll need to supply your own ADC to read that analog signal and then do some math to convert it to a current.

Oh you mean like a purge block? Why not just use the default? Otherwise I guess I’d just print benchies of varying size lol. 

The Quick hot air stations are really good. I think it's the 957DW+ that I have in my lab, can't beat it at $100.

Honestly I would just try to find the footprint on SnapEDA.

ya she's fuckt m8.

Inside that chip was a bunch of silicon that is doped with probably arsenic and/or germanium (meaning individual atoms of dopants mixed into the silicon lattice). This silicon and dopant mixture was arranged in a very specific configuration to hold a matrix of individual bits. All of this was carefully sealed in black epoxy, with tiny wires connecting the matrix to a grid of contacts on the bottom of the chip. These were solder points that attach the chip to the board. At these points was a tiny fleck of solder, but since the RoHS standard, there is no lead in modern consumer electronics, including the solder.

In short, there's no lead or mercury. I hope that RAM was already dead because it sure as shit is now.