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jonasa97

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Everything posted by jonasa97

  1. What may look like CNC milling is in fact me guiding the milling machine myself. Just because there is a complex pattern in the block that doesn't appear to have any defects, doesn't mean mean it was done by a computer. EDIT: I don't know if you read the whole thread attentively but the "Ghetto" part is the water bottle as reservoir and the H60 pump and radiator attached with a glue gun and duct tape.
  2. Introduction This build log strictly focuses on the watercooling part and does not involve any case or cable management. If you came for beautiful fittings and colorful tubing runs, you are in the wrong thread. Over the summer I was given the opportunity to work an internship at an undisclosed company at which I learned how to work metal with a file, turning machine, milling machine and more. Throughout the internship we were given various tasks but were also given some time to develop our own little project near the end. I decided to manufacture a CPU waterblock made of 2 plates of aluminium, similar to the one that Linus uses in "Scrapyard Wars 2, the Scrappening". I think I will mostly post pictures and write a little bit of the reasoning that went into the building and assembling of the block. The manufacture of the block took me about 14 hours excluding the planning process and another 2 afternoons were used to complete the assembly and the testing of the CPU waterblock. Unfortunately I was unable to make any pictures of the manufacturing process itself as there was a strict no camera/phone policy at the company. But enough talking, let's jump into it. Planning I will begin by giving you a list of things that were considered in the design of the block. In order to achieve a good cooling performance it is essential to have a large surface area in contact with the water near the part of the block that will later sit on the CPU. However, it is also important that the flow isn't too restricted by the pattern in the CPU block. More mechanical criteria are the dimensions of the block as a too large block would not fit into the socket area of the 1155 test platform that was used. The final block had dimensions of 86x86x13 mm and was fitted onto an MSI MPower Z77. Of course the material used for the block is also an important consideration. It is evident that the material of choice is copper yet such a large piece of copper was unavailable at that time such that I resorted to aluminium. As an alternative, I could have used steel, however steel has a much larger tendency to oxidize (rust) and thus produces gunk in the loop. Finally, the finishing quality and eveness of the surface in contact with the CPU is key to optimal cooling performance and a special miller was used for this task. Below is the final plan for the path that was to be milled into the metal. Besides cooling performance standardized dimensions also had to be considered. For example in order to be able to attach the block to an LGA1155/1150/1151 socket, you need to space each adjacent hole's center exactly 75 mm from each other (not the diagonals of course). I also spent a large portion of my time researching about the G1/4 standardized thread (not a forum thread but the helical part of a screw) and found out that contrary to common belief, the G1/4 thread is no where near 1/4" in diameter. Luckily the company had G1/4 screw taps such that I was able to drill those into the block and to make it work with regular watercooling fittings. Pheww. This was necessary in order to guarantee that there would be no leak around the socket area during testing. The finished block Lots of shots of the final block and the self-made thumbscrews can be found below. This is a shot of the channel where the water would later flow through. The two square things at each end are the inlet are outlet points of the waterblock. A shot of the blocks shows the upper sides of both blocks. A close up of the G1/4 thread The underside of the CPU waterblock. Although it may not look even due to the reflection of light in the block; running your hand over it and the cooling performance shows otherwise. This picture shows the underside of the upper metal plate. Into it, a path was milled in which there would later be poured hot glue in order to seal the block, although initially a more conservative solution using a rubber ring was planned. The picture shows 4 M4 thumbscrews that I made myself using a turning machine Assembly The hardest part of the assembly was to achieve a waterproof fit of the two plates that make up the waterblock. Initially the plan was to quickly apply hot glue into the ridge shown in one of the images above and then quickly press the other block onto it. However, the glue would cool almost instantly making it impossible to press the blocks together. It was necessary to find a method to heat the glue once it was applied. So the block was inserted into a pot of water over a propane combustion stove until the glue melted. The image shows the heating process of the two plates that make up the aluminium waterblock It was then necessary to properly align the mounting holes as the melting would result in the two plates sliding past each other ever so slightly. In order to be certain that the block was impermeable, fittings and tubing were attached and a significant pressure was applied to the sealing by holding the outlet shut while blowing in air through the inlet. By holding the block into a bucket of water, and by observing the lack of any bubbles it was confirmed that the glue sealing worked. The waterblock with the fittings and tubing attached in order to leak test the block As previously mentioned the block was tested on two different afternoons. Yet the configuration of the watercooling components was different on both. No temperature testing was performed on the first set of parts, not because the temperatures were too high but because of a drive problem that could not be resolved due to a lack of time. The first configuration is quite unserious but was interesting to build, the second yielded performances that were acceptable for everyday use. Both configurations were attached to/tested on an MPower Z77 with an i5 3570K at various multipliers Watercooling parts 1 -H60 pump -H60 radiator -500 ml sparkling water bottle -lots of glue gun sticks -2 of the cheapest fittings I could find -aluminium CPU waterblock After all parts were glue gunned together the configuration was tested on its own, without a computer running. It was discovered that the flow rate of the H60 pump was so minimal that it would probably not serve much in this project which was to be expected as it was taken out of service for this project due to high spikes in temperatures. Finally after all connections were confirmed to be waterproof, the waterblock was finally attached onto the CPU. The following is a picture of the entire loop As mentioned previously, due to a drive problem, it was not possible to test the system under load such that the only temperature information available was the BIOS temperature. Watercooling parts 2 -H60 radiator -Alphacool cheapest pump/reservoir EU, with 220V AC -4 of the cheapest fittings I could find -cheapest tubing EU 10/13 mm -aluminium CPU waterblock The Eheim 600 Station II 220V AC The picture above shows the H60 radiator with the tubing removed. It turned out that the 10/13 mm tubing is a waterproof fit without any barbs. As visible on the pictures, very long runs were used for CPU in and outlet in order to put a large distance in between the motherboard and a potential leak at the radiator or pump Temperatures Before we look at the temperatures I would like to ask all of you for a minute of silence for our beloved friend, H60! Surprisingly the temperatures were not at all as bad as I had expected. The thermal paste I used was Arctic MX4. Ambient temperature was about 23 degrees Celsius during testing. i5 3570K @ 4.0 GHz with 1.00 Vcore under prime 95 load (above) i5 3570K @ 4.5 GHz with 1.25 Vcore under prime 95 load (above) And no, the task manager is lying, 5.94 GHz were unfortunately not achieved. Conclusion The temperatures achieved were very surprising as there were so many factors against the cooling performance such as a lack of surface area on the waterblock, the wrong material, a rather thick layer of metal in between water and CPU and a very small radiator. Certainly, this configuration would have benefitted from a 240 mm radiator but unfortunately this would have meant additional costs for this project. In total about 50 EUR were spent on additional materials making this a worthy replacement of the H60. Feel free comment and discuss!
  3. I am monitoring my volts carefully. It doesn't exceed 1.2 Volts under load.
  4. Remember guys, that this is in the stock state, while the CPU is running at 3.54GHz. I just put information on my overclocking attemps in order to facilitate troubleshooting. Since then, I have just set the multiplier to 38 as a temporary fix for the clockrate issue. The voltage is currently on auto. 67 degrees on aida 64 at stock with 3.54GHz also appears very hot to me. Other people with the same CPU report CPUs in the 2 digits colder while under load with aida64
  5. Hi there, Today for the first time I bothered messing a little bit with the BIOS and decided to try and overclock my CPU a little. I got up to 4.3GHz on auto voltage which crashed after a few minutes. After I'm done messing around a little, I reset everything to the normal settings, however, in system I am only getting to a multiplier of 36 such that my CPU runs at 3.6GHz. Not even AIDA 64 could get the CPU to bother to clock up. All I changed was the multiplier. (I did try to boot at manual 1.200V with 4.4GHz but that didn't work out). On the other I have absolutely terrible temperatures when it comes to my CPU which is cooled by an H100i. At idle, the hottest core is switching between 36 to 37 degrees celcius while under AIDA 64, Cache, CPU, and FPU test, I get a maximum temperature of 67 degrees on the hottest core and 59 on the coldest (67,66,65,59). I have long thought about buying some thermal paste in order to be able to reseat the CPU block of my AIO watercooler but I have no clue if that would help. After some googling I found out that many people dislike the backplate of the H100i which occasionally causes a CPU block to not come into proper contact with the CPU. Any further information or clue as to why my temperatures are high and why my CPU doesn't turbo boost any more would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  6. English German French All fluent. Am german live in france go to english school. Trying to learn chinese with rosetta stone (Don't have installed atm )
  7. Corsair link does not recognize anything under windows 8.1 (The program launches but is useless). It works fine under windows 8. If you're an eager one, a registry edit makes it work on windows but I wouldn't do that. Setup is simple, although you are limited to 4 fans. If you are going to use corsair link to monitor your PSU power consumption, I am no help to you since I do not have an "i" model PSU.
  8. Does he really require that 1TB storage? I've been doing just fine with my 250GB , 232 formatted, SSD, and only now, after half a year, I am running into minor storage issues. (33GB left). Get him a 250GB now and then he can upgrade to another SSD or a hard drive later?!
  9. You REALLY need to get him an SSD. 250GB should do.
  10. The problem here is that the NSA has no Boss. It's become too powerful to be told by anyone what to do and that is the main reason it is receiving so much criticism. Therefore your argument doesn't work. (Feel free to "prove" me wrong) EDIT: go get a profile picture!
  11. The water doesn't actually touch the CPU. The water flows through a block of copper which in turn is in contact with the CPU lid.
  12. Hello, I am currently trying out things with JavaScript. I need one div to be replaced with another one. That means I don't want to replace the content of the div but take a different div that is hidden at the beginning to take the place of the old one. I am not even aware if this would be possible with JavaScript?!!
  13. 5000 POSTS!!!!! WOOHOO
  14. I personally think at 27 inch anything below 1440p looks awful.
  15. I didn't know that servers sound like a jet taking off.
  16. Applied to the group, having an Avenger aircraft. Still unsure as to what role I want to play in the Star Citizen community, therefore my purchase of the Avenger.
  17. Does that mean that after 3 months I need to pay for my ship again if I get shot down or something. Because I have very strong feelings about games where I need to pay some sort of timed fee. unless it costs < 1-2 dollar/euro.
  18. Hello there, I've thought about getting into star citizen several times but the website is putting me off. All products don't state very well what I will get. What do I need to buy to be able to play the game? What would be the cheapest option to get in?
  19. Look at image. I can tell you the 33cm is the width of the front. It's not that hard The case is also taller than it is long.
  20. I have an AX760 that is 760 watts at platinum efficiency. Also, the PC whines all the time at exactly the same frequency (pitch) and a pretty steady amplitude (loudness) as well.
  21. I've already had a fan touching a cable several times. However, it sounds more like an automatic gun firing rather than a whine . I've exchanged the fan to which that happened (stock corsair) so the current fans aren't causing sound because of damage done to them.
  22. I don't know if I've specified it enough in my OP, but I have no issues using the computer. It works just like it always did but it makes this annoying sound that I would like to get rid of.
  23. Well, I'm suspecting the graphics card. I'm almost certain it's not the power supply. Can a coil whine develop over time?
  24. Hello all, Recently it has come to my attention there is a whine coming from my PC. Before, there was nothing of the sort and I have done nothing in particular to make this happen. I have already tried turning all the fans off so that eliminates the issue of breaking fans. I have heard that whining could be coming from a breaking capacitor? Any other ideas on what could be causing this annoying sound? As I've said before. It wasn't there before and I've just started noticing it a few days ago. specs are in description along with the fans which are 2 noctua NFF 12, 1 120mm Silent Wings PWM, 1 140mm silent wings PWM. (VIdeo card is MSI ... Heard those could also whine)
  25. Yes because guns aren't illegal here. ^^
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