Naveronasis

Okay so this video and some of the comments near left me scratching my head.
 
Now I suppose some of what I'm about to say would break the point of the video but you guys didn't really achieve due diligence if you wanted to see how much performance you could get.
 
Now granted this is advanced stuff but so would be the people buying this board.
 
Run win10 for compatibility, otherwise 7 is fine. 
 
Linus was right the SSD is not the problem and bootstrapping a NVME would have taken PCIE lanes needed for GPU stuff possibly but even if it has the lanes to spare not going to improve performance on most games (looking at you rift apart)
 
But you could have limited cores, dedicated them on 1 CPU rather than letting it do whatever it wants.
 
Also should have used Nvidia inspector to test out alternative SLI modes. Companies avoided copying each other profiles and different modes (split screen, alternate frame, etc) work better or worse based on the number of cards and engine.
 
Supporting 2 way SLI with one mode doesn't mean 4way isn't better in a different mode and the number of cards is also often limited in the profile. You can do with with no programming skill. Basically a bit like regedit but easier and safer.
 
Next I would have stuck with 1080p since that was still peak for your 980s even though 1440p and 4k were out this was when the first high refresh rate monitors were also coming out in only 1080p. But a few higher res tests wouldn't have been okay but doing all 1440p with max setting, especially traditional aa (Msaa or ssaa) with only 6gb of vram is also a recipe for failure.
 
Also could have benched some CPU games like civ or factorio or whatever.

Has nothing to do with QPI, it has everything to do with, and especially windows 7, having issues with synchronizing games that support multithreading. So for compatibility reasons you would possibly want to limit available cores to 4 or 2 or even 1 in some rare cases depending on the game. Even games that don't crash outright there can be smoother performance. Making sure they are all on the same CPU is just an extra step that can be taken to eliminate variables.

 
 
As someone who ran SLI with 2 and for a short time 3x 970's I had gone out and bought a 2560x1600 and 4k monitor at the time and it was very much an unpopular choice due to issues with 60fps limit and poor ghosting, and many (though not mine) 4k monitors having to use 2 inputs for enough bandwidth. If you were min-maxing your gaming experience it would have really come down to FPS vs PPI and so it would have depended if you were more in to civ or mmos or moba/fps. I was mostly playing strategy games, but you don't need a super expensive system most of the time since even a bad FPS rate is playable in a turn based game. 970 was keen to run out of memory at 4k and even 1440p (though yes I did have an actual 16:10 1600p monitor).

I had been running SLI in systems since the very beginning with the 7800, 280, then 480, but both my 480's died and I had a single 560 for way too long, then 970sli one card was the wrong batch so it wasn't recognized without some hacks so I bought a 3rd one, tested out 3way for a short time before sending the unpaired one back to EVGA, 1080sli but it was not very good anymore so I sold one 1080ti, I also have a 965m titan MSI SLI laptop, and in my desktop back to a single 3080ti here in 2024. 1080p was absolutely the way to go if you were trying to absolutely maximize performance with SLI. Especially since some of that hitching could be reduced at higher FPS rather than higher resolution. Yes, you could spend more money by going 4k, and if you have 10k to spend on a system you have probably more money than sense... but as an enthusiast platform, and enthusiast presumably would know how to get the most mileage out of the system. Running the 980 to its memory limits with 4x msaa at 1440p/1600p/4k isn't a good time no matter how many of them you have.

Hey, you guys used my post on CRT's a few months ago. Not only that but I HAVE an indextron AND I know what's wrong with yours.

The problem is that the liquid glycol cooling forms crystals very slowly over time when i comes in contact with metal, typically aluminum. The solution is to drain the loop, run it through a coffee filter, put CLR into the screen tank to dissolve the crystals, drain that, then put glycol in.

Your projector seems dim compared to mine as well. And mine does not have glycol crystalization. I have a CRT projector that does and I would be willing to donate if you want to try this out. Its a sony coffee table projector. Since the post you guys used I have learned alot, I work for a retro gaming studio as Lead Level Designer and I have about 70 tubes... and Plasma stuff...  Including some other really rare PC monitors, like a pro Lacie Electron Blue 22 Calibration monitor, and new in box SGI 13w3 monitors and some old 50's stuff that still works... So yeah, you want tubes? You want to see where we make new Genesis cartiges at work? I can probably figure some things out with you guys.

I am thinking of making a 2.0 of this thread... I could update it. But I think it's better to start fresh and provide a link to the OG thread. I have learned a lot since the initial post. I should write more, I did this back when my leg was broken and I had unlimited time. I have over 70 tubes now... and I have begun to show the more rare/expensive one's off at trade shows. (Specifically PGX). I also have an interest in other display tech... So I have some oled stuff and pvm's and presentation monitors, giant CRT projectors, Indextron, and all kinds of neat stuff now.

I don't think you guys understand this case 😛
 
The picture above is looking into the case from the front. There is no "top" when I say top of the motherboard I mean... The "top" of the motherboard as if it were mounted in a standard tower case.
 
there is no top, bottom, front, or back ventilation in this case. It was designed for a "wind tunnel" effect isolating the PSU and drives on the bottom and motherboard on top. There aren't even "front" drive bays. They are rotated 90 degrees to the right hand side of the case as pictured.
 
THe PSU will vent from the inside of the case to the left without mods. The GPU is on the left. CPU on the right. So my question is. So we intake CPU or intake GPU.
 
intake CPU side will be consistent with the PSU for optimal wind tunnel effect.
 
or
 
do we flip the PSU fan and intake GPU side to optimize GPU cooling since it will be doing the most work in the system.
 
OR 
 
do we throw out wind tunnel effect and go for something unorthodox.

I actually intend to pick up one of these 16:9 CRT tv's to add to my collection but from what I understand... They are capable of 1080i or 720i with a max progressive resolution of half of 1080 (aka 540p). Why idk, is it true? idk. I assume I'll find out. The delay isn't significant and does not from what I understand add any ghosting, but it's not the 0 latency experience of a truly VGA direct input display. I do know that fighting games clubs and enthusiasts say to avoid them. But then again, I'm not a fighting games enthusiast. 

Not everyone knows they are called CRT, so looking up "monitor" or "tube" can also yield results.

since most of the time (at least here in 2019, hello potential future readers) you can get a CRT for free, its pretty low risk to give a try.

I love GN XD I just love how even on youtube, the Simpsons did it first XD

me neither lol, imma try it some time, does it have to be a good CRT or any?
Mind recommending one I should /could buy?
I already have multiple HDMI to VGA adaptors

They still sell a HDMI to VGA adapter at wallmart, so you can grab one fast, but you'll overpay for it vs online. There are some artifacting issues with basic ones at very high pixel clocks, a good one online (which I will link once I have one and can verify) costs around 70 bucks. Assuming it works as advertised. Again, review pending.

As for new games on an old monitor... Some games like Fallout 4 will have scaling issues with either the background or UI similar to how ultrawide can require some mods or .ini adjustments. There's a 4:3 mod for Fallout that fix the problems with the UI. League of legends, for example, does a zoom crop thus putting a native 4"3 player at a disadvantage and finally since a lot of these monitors lack perfect convergence due to age and whatnot games with very fine text and UI details like Stellaris can also be a pain.

That being said, you can run games like league in 16:9 letterboxed, and mods or edits exist for a lot of games like fallout. But with a decent quality CRT that isn't super high hours most games particularly colorful ones will be more vibrant, have better black levels, and unparalleled anti-ghosting. You can achieve better colors on the Samsung quantum dot monitors but they have a ton of other drawbacks. (I have the Samsung 4k 32" UH850) Drawbacks include, not great ghosting, no gsync, persistent film grain, 60hz. But it's perfect for everything a CRT is awful at, like Stellaris and Eve Online

PS i have played overwatch on it, and that works fine great even! I dont have fortnite installed.

Here are some great screenshots. Here it is next to my IPS monitor. Keep in mind that I'm still capturing the image with a phone which has limitations and you are looking at it on an LCD (most likely) which has its own limitations. You can't really see the additional perceived color depth in the image but it should be proof enough that it's at least in the ballpark for any skeptics out there. Also this monitor had a damaged anti-glare mask so its a little brighter and more washed out than it was designed to be. In person, it can still exceed all but my Quantum Dot monitor in black levels.



Here is the display running in 240p Displaying an emulated Sonic 1. The scanline effect on a TV is typically caused by blank lines inserted into the image to fake progressive by only drawing even or odd lines, In this image its true 240p the electron beam of the monitor is simply thin enough to fail at filling the entire image creating a very authentic feeling experience.



Here you can see LTT running in full RGB 4k (video stream in theatre mode) at a resolution of 2048x1536i 60hz

The chromatic banding you see is a camera artifact and not present IRL. Remember the camera focus is not perfect either. You can still, even at that res, even interlaced, even though the camera focus read 99% of the text. (Note Browser zoom was 125%)..... Also yes I did purposely choose the "I can never go back" new display technology video because of irony!

Here is the UFO test on my CRT at 2048x1536i Full RGB 60hz. Keep in mind this is Interlaced so if there is going to be separation it will show up here!

As you can see, if you zoom in, the scanline is at the top of the middle row. The image was taken with an exposure time of 1/60th of a second (It's important to make sure your exposure matches the display HZ). 1 Frame of "ghosting" can be seen in the dark and middle areas where the scan line is. Below the scanline, you can see 0 ghosting. This means that the image persists for LESS than 1/60th of a second. 

Lets go harder. This image is 800x600p Full RGB at 160hz Exposure was increased to 1/160 of a second. (It's important to make sure your exposure matches the display HZ)

Absolutely wrecked that test. Only 1 frame of ghosting visible in the top 2 bars. The scan line is JUST at the top of the yellowblack test circles of the dark blue segment. This means the ghosting lasts just under 1/160th of a second.

BUT I KNOW WHAT YOUR THINKING! How does this compare to a LCD?! Well my GT80 Titan gaming laptop has a 1080p 60hz Samsung PLS display. Let's take a look. Exposure set to 1/60th of a second. (It's important to make sure your exposure matches the display HZ)

Absolutely fucking destroyed. There are at least 3 frames of ghosting visible. The warning bar is simply because it could not resolve the actual refresh rate but it is locked in at 60fps moving the proper distance. (PLS is almost identical to IPS technology) Hands down the CRT devistates the LCD display. Unfortunately I don't have a high refresh rate LCD for comparison.

Here is the CRT running KCD at 2048x1536i Full RGB 60hz, Remember the artifacts and banding is the camera not the display.


To give you an idea of how much detail is actually there. Here is a zoom of the wooden fence next to the hut. This time the vertical lines you are seeing ARE real. But not visible from more than like.... 6 inches from the screen. Remember this is an extreme close up of an area of the screen about 1.5"x1" or 3cm X 2cm in size. Compare the image below with the one above to see just how close we are getting.

 In real life when your not fighting LGv30 focus you can see even more clearly but that image there should impress.

Anyway if there are any questions, or images you would like me to take for you please post them below or DM me.

ANYWAY
Once you get your resolution set, give it a test, if it works save it. If using interlaced mode. for the purposes of Nvidia you are effectively cutting the refresh rate in half So if your monitor CAN do a resolution at 60hz Progressive, you can usually bump that up to 120hz and set it to interlaced.
 
Some Notes on Interlacing
CRT monitor interlacing is done at a much higher speed than your old CRT TV so seeing images separate at high speeds is unlikely. The downside of Interlaced Mode on a monitor usually comes in the form of jitter text or minor loss of clarity vs the same resolution in progressive. So why use it? Well, you can increase the FPS to reduce flickering OR reduce the signal bandwidth to enable higher color standards. My Samsung monitor only supports 444 or limited RGB color mode in 2048x1536p 60hz, but FULL RGB in 2048x1536i. I could run a shooter like CSGO at 1600x1200p 85hz, OR 1600x1200i at 160hz!
 
Resolution Scaling
Earlier I mentioned that the resolution scaling on a CRT is better. This is referring to running the CRT in a resolution OTHER than native. Try setting your 1080p monitor to 720p, pretty shit huh? Your LCD has a 1:1 pixel grid matching the render resolution of your graphics card. When you run outside of that native resolution each pixel of that 720p can't be displayed precisely where it should be. So the monitor has to approximate where it should go, then fill in the pixels around it. If you have ever done the math 1080/720=1.5 that fraction means there's no way to actually align the PIXEL to the grid. Some pixels will split the difference. This is why for example on a 4k monitor 1080p will sometimes look better than 1440p. Since 3840/1920=2 AND 2160/1080=2 All the pixels land on the grid. So there is less scaling and guesswork involved by the scaler.
CRT Monitors come in 2 flavors. Aperture Grill (Trinitron) and Shadow Mask (Other)
 
Aperature Grill (Trinitron)

Notice the THIN black line in the middle. That is a tiny support cable to keep the columns in line. There are usually 2 of these on a Trinitron display 1/3 from the top and bottom. They are thinner than a human hair and invisible just about 100% of the time the image isn't displaying pure white. So if you see it don't worry your CRT isn't broken. It's just part of the design.

Various Shadow Masks


The Aperture Grill or Shadow Mask is not a 1:1 representation of pixels (except the one on a LCD) In fact there is no connection between them. Its job is to work like a prism and separate out the colors based on the CRT being projected at the screen. each colored area has a phosphor tuned to the corresponding wavelength from the raygun. The actual pixel being rendered does not have to land directly on the grill/mask to be shown correctly. Often the "resolution" of the mask is far in excess of the actual monitor. Aperture Grill (Trinitron) is considered vastly superior to shadow mask CRT's. "Trinitron" Is a Sony brand of "Aperture Grill" that was licensed out to other companies or sold directly by having Sony produce the actual picture tubes. Both of my Sun Microsystems monitors have Sony tubes. The Samsung SyncMaster 900nf Has a Mitsubishi tube made after the patent expired. So they are "Trinitron" even if they don't say it.

Here is a picture. I put an ordinary headphone jack up next to the image to help demonstrate how fine the grille is.

 
This is why regardless if your image is 240p or 1536p the image is nice and sharp. there is no screen door effect, no scaling. The image simply is what it is. Some monitors and TV's would talk about dot pitch. This could sometimes be referring to the approximate fine-ness of the grille or shadow mask. But sometimes it was simply DPI of the native resolution. So be wary when looking at "Dot Pitch" numbers for CRT displays. Just a side note, you could sort of think of this over-resolution prism layer like Sub Pixels on new LCD displays granting each "Pixel" multiple sources of each RGB color per rendered "Pixel".

A great video on CRT Tech can be found here.
 
Full RGB will grant the most color possible. However, sometimes this will over-saturate the signal and you will get artifacts.
In the above image, you can see what happens when I max out the resolution, refresh rate, and try to run FULL RGB. On the left is the original image. On the right is a photograph of the purple section. You can see some green artifacts. 

 
 
Before you get up in arms over the color quality being inexact, I did not correct the image as I am simply interested in demonstrating the artifacts.
FULL RGB > Limited RGB > YCbCr444 > YCbCr422 and onward. Sometimes if your RIGHT on the edge you can go into the "Adjust Desktop Color" Settings of Nvidia Control Panel and nudge down the "Digital Vibrance" a few points (50 being 100% color I don't know why they scale from 0-100 with 50 being Default instead of 0-200% with 100% as default) By reducing Digital Vibrance sometimes you can get better results staying closer to FULL RGB than Limited RGB.
 
Sometimes in OTHER color modes, you can increase digital vibrance to bring a little "pop" back into the image but be careful. Moving digital vibrance too high can do more than simply oversaturate the image. It can cause some colors to move outside the range of the signal turning them into OTHER colors.

You can see what fresh hell jacking the Vibrance to 100% unleashed on my color wheel in the photo compared to the screenshot (Again photo is not color corrected or even entirely in focus that's not the point right now)


TROUBLESHOOTING
Sometimes Nvidia won't show or allow you to set your custom resolutions. If it bothers to show it at all. If this happens you bypass Nvidia by going to Windows Display Settings. The options here are limited but if you go to advanced, OR goto device manager you can set the display properties for the selected monitor directly.

Simply click "List all Modes" and select your resolution and refresh rate here. THIS IS A MUST for INTERLACED modes.

OSD:
Many additional issues can be solved in your CRT monitors OSD. Here are some examples.

Weird image shape: 
You can adjust size, position, and several forms of skewing in the OSD usually under "Geometry"

Colors are off in one or more corners:
Adjust "Purity" in OSD

Some objects on the screen have red or blue shadows.
Adjust Convergence.

The image is dim.
Go into nvidia control panel under "Adjust Desktop Size and Position" and disable all scaling, override those set in games, and make sure all scaling is handled by this display. This will prevent lost brightness to blanking. (don't I could explain but it's long and technical)

HARDWARE LEVEL ISSUES:

!!!DISCLAIMER!!!
DO NOT TAKE APART A CRT ALONE. In fact, if your not 100% confident in your ability to do it safely don't even try. The caps in a CRT can kill you. Here is a video:
You can also ground an insulated screwdriver and isolate yourself from the ground by wearing rubber electricians gloves.

Convergence:
If the convergence is too far gone to be fixed by the OSD it can be manually adjusted with PHYSICAL dials on the back of the tube (yes, inside).


You will need to adjust these WHILE the monitor is ON, so discharging will not be possible before performing this adjustment. These rings are often glued in place by a latex glue. You can simply peel it off with tweezers.

Damaged Screen!
The top layer of the screen often coated in anti-glare spray or plastic. The plastic is glued onto the glass. A lot of cleaning chemicals and sharp objects will harm this layer. If the glass is intact but there is a scratch or oddly colored area you can remove the frame and literally tear this coating off. This will also increase brightness but decrease black levels. Spray can be removed too with proper chemicals.


Dim Display:
There is an internal gamma setting that adjusts the brightness of the ray tubes by (from what I understand) adjusting the voltage this is known as G2 some have a physical knob or screw inside the monitor. Some (mostly sony's) have to use a Serial to USB adapter to access the firmware (you can still get these easily online from enthusiasts) Try to find a PDF of the service manual.

That wraps things up! Just for the record the GOD MONITORS from back then that are literally worth thousands are as follows. There are plenty of other monitors 99% as good as these for FREE to anyone willing to take them on Craigs List but I wanted to mention them just in case you bump into one. People have thrown these out, not knowing what they have.

Sony GDM-FW900
This is a 24" 16:10 2304x1440p 80hz CRT. Expect to pay 3k Used to 7k new. IF you can even find one.

Sony BVM-D32XXXX
This is a 32" 1080i 16:9 Broadcast Monitor will work with PC or TV signals This Monster display goes for 5k-15k depending on the hours clocked in the OSD.

BOTH prices go up and down A LOT, waiting, talking to old production studios. Looking for auctions can get either one for MUCH cheaper. Both cited prices are if you HAD to have one RIGHT NOW and ran out to buy one TODAY which I would not recommend.

Here is the complete guide to CRT's you didn't know you wanted and didn't ask for.

First, let's clarify a few things with a quick Q/A

Q: What is a CRT?
A: A CRT is a Display that uses Cathode Ray Tubes to produce an image. AKA old monitors and TV's from the 90's and early 2000's. For the purposes of this guide we will be talking about Computer Monitors.

Q: Aren't CRT's low resolution with terrible interlacing and poor refresh rates?
A: No, nearly all CRT Monitors Exceed 720p Some even Exceed 1080p and have refresh rates over 60hz. See the specifications section for more info!
 
Q: Part's of this guide talk go into taking CRT's apart Isn't that dangerous?!
A: Yes, Don't do anything you are not comfortable doing. Don't work on a CRT without a friend just in case. Working on any electronic device (Such as the power supply in your tower) can be dangerous if done improperly. If you're not sure, don't do it.

Q: There are a lot of external links in this document. Are you making any money off posting this?
A: I wish, I don't own nor am I affiliated with any of the linked websites, products, organizations etc.

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So why CRT?
Several reasons. CRT's are low cost, and as you will see are surprisingly high-performance displays that offer flexible resolution scaling, high refresh rates, superior color depth in many cases. They are excellent for retro gaming, emulation, and modern titles. When compared to LCD Displays, depending on the setup and settings they out-perform most displays in Respons Time, Refresh Rate, perceived color depth, and resolution, sometimes in the case of a good CRT all at once. Obviously, all of these things require at least some qualification and carry with them several exceptions but bare with me.

-------------

Specifications.
This will vary from monitor to monitor to monitor but here are some examples of what you can expect from your typical CRT Monitor.

CRT monitors come in various sizes the most common of which are 15" 17" 19" and 21" though many 21" monitors are actually only 19" diagonal display space. Why this was the case I don't know. The size often dictated the supported resolutions. While it was not standardized most CRT's (and video display drivers) will recognize a CRT's Native resolution as the one reported by the device as capable of 85hz. Which in MOST cases will not be the maximum supported resolution. I will cover this extensively later. CRT's worth obtaining will use at least one of the following connections. VGA(15pin Dsub), BNC, or 13w3. If you find a 13w3 only monitor it will be rough to get setup initially BUT due to SGI and MAC machines collectors will usually pay good money for a13w3 model so you may want to grab it anway and sell or trade it to someone in need. Let's look at some basic examples of common supported modes of operation.

Most random craigslist CRT's will support the following modes based on their size in FULL RGB (more on color later).
15"
1024x768p 85hz
1280x1024p 60hz

17"
1280x1024p 85hz
1600x1200p 60hz

19/21
1280x1024p 85hz
1600x1200p 60hz
(typically 80lbs!)

Here are the connectors you are looking for.

 
You can use a HDMI/DVI-I/DVI-D/DisplayPort to VGA adapter on any modern GFX card.

Now I know what your thinking. Why didn't the 19/21" Monitors improve? Well, they did, but most will still report those resolutions as the standard. But often they will support MUCH HIGHER modes that are not listed because most computers from this time period could not push high resolutions, convergence made clarity at high resolution for text difficult and possible bandwidth limitations for color space. Back in the 90's the assumption was that you would be buying a monitor primarily for work or school. Games were considered a secondary market that had very little impact on sales. So advertising or designing a monitor to report media oriented high-performance modes was considered either irrelevant or not considered at all.

Now let's get specific. For this guide, I will be using my Samsung SyncMaster 900NF. Typically googling a model number will return excellent results for most monitors. CNET seems to have an excellent database for CRT's.

Here is a link to detailed specifications.
https://www.cnet.com/products/samsung-syncmaster-900-nf-pg19nsbu/specs/

As you can see this 21" Monitor has only 18" of actual viewable space.
It's Native Resolution is above average.
1600x1200p at 87hz!
This is a good oppertunity to talk about exactly what that means. First, this is not the MAX resolution. This is simply the highest resolution OVER 60hz that the image can perform in FULL color without any apparent flickering. (More on flicker Later) Nvidia will still report this monitor as having a NATIVE resolution of 1280x1024p at 85hz. Iis actual MAX resolution is 2048x1536 at 60hz With limited color range.

Lets summerize.
1600x1200p 87hz Full RGB (Listed Product Native)
1280x1024p 85hz Full RGB (Nvidia's Native)
2048x1536p 60hz 444 (Max Resolution)

What's interesting is unlike an LCD these higher resolutions WILL be listed in Nvidia's settings AND windows settings above Native!


Unlike an LCD however, the actual resolution and refresh rate capable of being achieved is determined by the speed at which the magnetic field inside the CRT can sweep the electron beam across the surface. So when you look at old websites they will actually list 2 numbers for the monitor rather. Especially if those websites are techie websites. The list of "supported" resolutions and refresh rates were considered more like "Suggestions" than hard limits.

On the CNET page it lists the "Spec" for this monitor as
H - 30khz-110khz
V - 50hz-160hz

This means the monitor will support a horizontal refresh rate (what? yes, HORIZONTAL refresh) of 30-110 and a vertical refresh rate up to a massive 160hz! So great! Let's just set it to 2048x1536p 160hz full RGB and laugh that our dumpster dive monitor blows the doors off of most modern "Gaming" displays. WRONG!  Sadly that bit about Horizontal refresh rate is going to, unfortunately, rain on your parade. As you increase the speed the beam draws vertical lines, it MUST scan across the entire surface left to right before moving to the next line. So a higher verticle refresh rate is going to increase the horizontal refresh rate. Higher resolution ALSO increases horizontal refresh rate. If you tried to create a custom resolution this is what you would get. (More on how to do this later)




270khz is a big oof and not going to fly. We can play with these numbers here to get our actual max setting, which Im not going to dump another screenshot but I can tell you is 2048x1536p 68hz (which works out to 108.73khz Horizontal)

Generally speaking, plenty of good modes will be available in the Nvidia or Ati control panel from the start and you won't be expected to fiddle with custom resolutions much in order to get off the ground with your CRT Monitor. So stop reading and go game already.


-------------

Still here? Great. Let's go deeper.

If you want to make your own custom resolution you will need to use Nvidia's custom resolution settings OR a Custom Resolution Utility (AKA: CRU, Freeware https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/custom_resolution_utility.html)
Let's do this with NVIDIA's driver directly as I will be able to cover many of the quirks and bugs. Also, it does a lot of the math for us so even if you abandon it later, it works as a good calculator. You COULD look up a calculator but most of them are very difficult to understand.

First, open Nvidia control panel. You must DISABLE Dynamic Super Resolution under "Manage 3d Settings" Once on the "Change Resolution Page" You may need to set a resolution first before "Customize" will become available. For some reason, if you click away from the current resolution or, frankly at random. Customize will be grayed out. Just set a new resolution and it should work. Once you can click Customize, Do it.


Your screen should be blank. But this is what it will look like once we start making new resolutions. Click the "Enable resolutions not exposed by the display." and then click create. That will bring you to the next screen which I will label for you.

Some Important notes as long as what you set here is inside your monitor spec you should be fine. Testing a signal outside the range of your monitor WILL NOT HARM IT. Simply the monitor will FAIL to display the image and may even tell you that the signal is out of range or sync out of range or bad cable whatever.

VERY IMPORTANT
Often the timing box will fail to auto-fill in all the grayed out boxes. Simply change the STANDARD dropbox from whatever it's set to... to anything else, then back to CVT. That will cause it to redo all the correct numbers.

ADVANCED AWESOMENESS!
You CAN render in whatever resolution you like. 4k, 8k, 16k even it's your graphics card you can blow it into a crater for all I care. This is useful for if you want to test out 4k on your LCD monitor and see if your PC can handle it. So this isn't CRT specific. At the top in "display mode" set your resolution, Say you have a 1080p 120hz monitor. 1920 1080 120. Then go to "Standard" Set it to CVT then back to Auto to force it to update. THEN change it to Manual. Once in manual set the Display Mode to whatever the hell you want. 3840x2160 at 60hz (higher refresh rates may not be supported) This will tell your graphics card to RENDER 4k, but output scaled down to 1080p This will not look great on your monitor. BUT the performance numbers will be real. You can also use this on your CRT to get 1080p working properly by telling the monitor to use a resolution it's comfortable with like 1280x1024 but render in 1080p. You could ALSO use this to test or force compatibility on UltraWide monitors. (See next post)

Oops, and the funny part is I know this XD. I fixed it thanks!

I was able to hunt down and correct small error's about part names and terms. There are things that could be explained further, like blanking, retrace, and how the green artifacts may actually be a limitation on the HDMI-VGA adapter rather than the monitor. BUT if you get those artifacts, either way, that method will still fix them so I did not revise that part.

If anyone has any questions or concerns post them here and I'll respond asap

Here are some great screenshots. Here it is next to my IPS monitor. Keep in mind that I'm still capturing the image with a phone which has limitations and you are looking at it on an LCD (most likely) which has its own limitations. You can't really see the additional perceived color depth in the image but it should be proof enough that it's at least in the ballpark for any skeptics out there. Also this monitor had a damaged anti-glare mask so its a little brighter and more washed out than it was designed to be. In person, it can still exceed all but my Quantum Dot monitor in black levels.



Here is the display running in 240p Displaying an emulated Sonic 1. The scanline effect on a TV is typically caused by blank lines inserted into the image to fake progressive by only drawing even or odd lines, In this image its true 240p the electron beam of the monitor is simply thin enough to fail at filling the entire image creating a very authentic feeling experience.



Here you can see LTT running in full RGB 4k (video stream in theatre mode) at a resolution of 2048x1536i 60hz

The chromatic banding you see is a camera artifact and not present IRL. Remember the camera focus is not perfect either. You can still, even at that res, even interlaced, even though the camera focus read 99% of the text. (Note Browser zoom was 125%)..... Also yes I did purposely choose the "I can never go back" new display technology video because of irony!

Here is the UFO test on my CRT at 2048x1536i Full RGB 60hz. Keep in mind this is Interlaced so if there is going to be separation it will show up here!

As you can see, if you zoom in, the scanline is at the top of the middle row. The image was taken with an exposure time of 1/60th of a second (It's important to make sure your exposure matches the display HZ). 1 Frame of "ghosting" can be seen in the dark and middle areas where the scan line is. Below the scanline, you can see 0 ghosting. This means that the image persists for LESS than 1/60th of a second. 

Lets go harder. This image is 800x600p Full RGB at 160hz Exposure was increased to 1/160 of a second. (It's important to make sure your exposure matches the display HZ)

Absolutely wrecked that test. Only 1 frame of ghosting visible in the top 2 bars. The scan line is JUST at the top of the yellowblack test circles of the dark blue segment. This means the ghosting lasts just under 1/160th of a second.

BUT I KNOW WHAT YOUR THINKING! How does this compare to a LCD?! Well my GT80 Titan gaming laptop has a 1080p 60hz Samsung PLS display. Let's take a look. Exposure set to 1/60th of a second. (It's important to make sure your exposure matches the display HZ)

Absolutely fucking destroyed. There are at least 3 frames of ghosting visible. The warning bar is simply because it could not resolve the actual refresh rate but it is locked in at 60fps moving the proper distance. (PLS is almost identical to IPS technology) Hands down the CRT devistates the LCD display. Unfortunately I don't have a high refresh rate LCD for comparison.

Here is the CRT running KCD at 2048x1536i Full RGB 60hz, Remember the artifacts and banding is the camera not the display.


To give you an idea of how much detail is actually there. Here is a zoom of the wooden fence next to the hut. This time the vertical lines you are seeing ARE real. But not visible from more than like.... 6 inches from the screen. Remember this is an extreme close up of an area of the screen about 1.5"x1" or 3cm X 2cm in size. Compare the image below with the one above to see just how close we are getting.

 In real life when your not fighting LGv30 focus you can see even more clearly but that image there should impress.

Anyway if there are any questions, or images you would like me to take for you please post them below or DM me.

ANYWAY
Once you get your resolution set, give it a test, if it works save it. If using interlaced mode. for the purposes of Nvidia you are effectively cutting the refresh rate in half So if your monitor CAN do a resolution at 60hz Progressive, you can usually bump that up to 120hz and set it to interlaced.
 
Some Notes on Interlacing
CRT monitor interlacing is done at a much higher speed than your old CRT TV so seeing images separate at high speeds is unlikely. The downside of Interlaced Mode on a monitor usually comes in the form of jitter text or minor loss of clarity vs the same resolution in progressive. So why use it? Well, you can increase the FPS to reduce flickering OR reduce the signal bandwidth to enable higher color standards. My Samsung monitor only supports 444 or limited RGB color mode in 2048x1536p 60hz, but FULL RGB in 2048x1536i. I could run a shooter like CSGO at 1600x1200p 85hz, OR 1600x1200i at 160hz!
 
Resolution Scaling
Earlier I mentioned that the resolution scaling on a CRT is better. This is referring to running the CRT in a resolution OTHER than native. Try setting your 1080p monitor to 720p, pretty shit huh? Your LCD has a 1:1 pixel grid matching the render resolution of your graphics card. When you run outside of that native resolution each pixel of that 720p can't be displayed precisely where it should be. So the monitor has to approximate where it should go, then fill in the pixels around it. If you have ever done the math 1080/720=1.5 that fraction means there's no way to actually align the PIXEL to the grid. Some pixels will split the difference. This is why for example on a 4k monitor 1080p will sometimes look better than 1440p. Since 3840/1920=2 AND 2160/1080=2 All the pixels land on the grid. So there is less scaling and guesswork involved by the scaler.
CRT Monitors come in 2 flavors. Aperture Grill (Trinitron) and Shadow Mask (Other)
 
Aperature Grill (Trinitron)

Notice the THIN black line in the middle. That is a tiny support cable to keep the columns in line. There are usually 2 of these on a Trinitron display 1/3 from the top and bottom. They are thinner than a human hair and invisible just about 100% of the time the image isn't displaying pure white. So if you see it don't worry your CRT isn't broken. It's just part of the design.

Various Shadow Masks


The Aperture Grill or Shadow Mask is not a 1:1 representation of pixels (except the one on a LCD) In fact there is no connection between them. Its job is to work like a prism and separate out the colors based on the CRT being projected at the screen. each colored area has a phosphor tuned to the corresponding wavelength from the raygun. The actual pixel being rendered does not have to land directly on the grill/mask to be shown correctly. Often the "resolution" of the mask is far in excess of the actual monitor. Aperture Grill (Trinitron) is considered vastly superior to shadow mask CRT's. "Trinitron" Is a Sony brand of "Aperture Grill" that was licensed out to other companies or sold directly by having Sony produce the actual picture tubes. Both of my Sun Microsystems monitors have Sony tubes. The Samsung SyncMaster 900nf Has a Mitsubishi tube made after the patent expired. So they are "Trinitron" even if they don't say it.

Here is a picture. I put an ordinary headphone jack up next to the image to help demonstrate how fine the grille is.

 
This is why regardless if your image is 240p or 1536p the image is nice and sharp. there is no screen door effect, no scaling. The image simply is what it is. Some monitors and TV's would talk about dot pitch. This could sometimes be referring to the approximate fine-ness of the grille or shadow mask. But sometimes it was simply DPI of the native resolution. So be wary when looking at "Dot Pitch" numbers for CRT displays. Just a side note, you could sort of think of this over-resolution prism layer like Sub Pixels on new LCD displays granting each "Pixel" multiple sources of each RGB color per rendered "Pixel".

A great video on CRT Tech can be found here.
 
Full RGB will grant the most color possible. However, sometimes this will over-saturate the signal and you will get artifacts.
In the above image, you can see what happens when I max out the resolution, refresh rate, and try to run FULL RGB. On the left is the original image. On the right is a photograph of the purple section. You can see some green artifacts. 

 
 
Before you get up in arms over the color quality being inexact, I did not correct the image as I am simply interested in demonstrating the artifacts.
FULL RGB > Limited RGB > YCbCr444 > YCbCr422 and onward. Sometimes if your RIGHT on the edge you can go into the "Adjust Desktop Color" Settings of Nvidia Control Panel and nudge down the "Digital Vibrance" a few points (50 being 100% color I don't know why they scale from 0-100 with 50 being Default instead of 0-200% with 100% as default) By reducing Digital Vibrance sometimes you can get better results staying closer to FULL RGB than Limited RGB.
 
Sometimes in OTHER color modes, you can increase digital vibrance to bring a little "pop" back into the image but be careful. Moving digital vibrance too high can do more than simply oversaturate the image. It can cause some colors to move outside the range of the signal turning them into OTHER colors.

You can see what fresh hell jacking the Vibrance to 100% unleashed on my color wheel in the photo compared to the screenshot (Again photo is not color corrected or even entirely in focus that's not the point right now)


TROUBLESHOOTING
Sometimes Nvidia won't show or allow you to set your custom resolutions. If it bothers to show it at all. If this happens you bypass Nvidia by going to Windows Display Settings. The options here are limited but if you go to advanced, OR goto device manager you can set the display properties for the selected monitor directly.

Simply click "List all Modes" and select your resolution and refresh rate here. THIS IS A MUST for INTERLACED modes.

OSD:
Many additional issues can be solved in your CRT monitors OSD. Here are some examples.

Weird image shape: 
You can adjust size, position, and several forms of skewing in the OSD usually under "Geometry"

Colors are off in one or more corners:
Adjust "Purity" in OSD

Some objects on the screen have red or blue shadows.
Adjust Convergence.

The image is dim.
Go into nvidia control panel under "Adjust Desktop Size and Position" and disable all scaling, override those set in games, and make sure all scaling is handled by this display. This will prevent lost brightness to blanking. (don't I could explain but it's long and technical)

HARDWARE LEVEL ISSUES:

!!!DISCLAIMER!!!
DO NOT TAKE APART A CRT ALONE. In fact, if your not 100% confident in your ability to do it safely don't even try. The caps in a CRT can kill you. Here is a video:
You can also ground an insulated screwdriver and isolate yourself from the ground by wearing rubber electricians gloves.

Convergence:
If the convergence is too far gone to be fixed by the OSD it can be manually adjusted with PHYSICAL dials on the back of the tube (yes, inside).


You will need to adjust these WHILE the monitor is ON, so discharging will not be possible before performing this adjustment. These rings are often glued in place by a latex glue. You can simply peel it off with tweezers.

Damaged Screen!
The top layer of the screen often coated in anti-glare spray or plastic. The plastic is glued onto the glass. A lot of cleaning chemicals and sharp objects will harm this layer. If the glass is intact but there is a scratch or oddly colored area you can remove the frame and literally tear this coating off. This will also increase brightness but decrease black levels. Spray can be removed too with proper chemicals.


Dim Display:
There is an internal gamma setting that adjusts the brightness of the ray tubes by (from what I understand) adjusting the voltage this is known as G2 some have a physical knob or screw inside the monitor. Some (mostly sony's) have to use a Serial to USB adapter to access the firmware (you can still get these easily online from enthusiasts) Try to find a PDF of the service manual.

That wraps things up! Just for the record the GOD MONITORS from back then that are literally worth thousands are as follows. There are plenty of other monitors 99% as good as these for FREE to anyone willing to take them on Craigs List but I wanted to mention them just in case you bump into one. People have thrown these out, not knowing what they have.

Sony GDM-FW900
This is a 24" 16:10 2304x1440p 80hz CRT. Expect to pay 3k Used to 7k new. IF you can even find one.

Sony BVM-D32XXXX
This is a 32" 1080i 16:9 Broadcast Monitor will work with PC or TV signals This Monster display goes for 5k-15k depending on the hours clocked in the OSD.

BOTH prices go up and down A LOT, waiting, talking to old production studios. Looking for auctions can get either one for MUCH cheaper. Both cited prices are if you HAD to have one RIGHT NOW and ran out to buy one TODAY which I would not recommend.

Here is the complete guide to CRT's you didn't know you wanted and didn't ask for.

First, let's clarify a few things with a quick Q/A

Q: What is a CRT?
A: A CRT is a Display that uses Cathode Ray Tubes to produce an image. AKA old monitors and TV's from the 90's and early 2000's. For the purposes of this guide we will be talking about Computer Monitors.

Q: Aren't CRT's low resolution with terrible interlacing and poor refresh rates?
A: No, nearly all CRT Monitors Exceed 720p Some even Exceed 1080p and have refresh rates over 60hz. See the specifications section for more info!
 
Q: Part's of this guide talk go into taking CRT's apart Isn't that dangerous?!
A: Yes, Don't do anything you are not comfortable doing. Don't work on a CRT without a friend just in case. Working on any electronic device (Such as the power supply in your tower) can be dangerous if done improperly. If you're not sure, don't do it.

Q: There are a lot of external links in this document. Are you making any money off posting this?
A: I wish, I don't own nor am I affiliated with any of the linked websites, products, organizations etc.

-------------

So why CRT?
Several reasons. CRT's are low cost, and as you will see are surprisingly high-performance displays that offer flexible resolution scaling, high refresh rates, superior color depth in many cases. They are excellent for retro gaming, emulation, and modern titles. When compared to LCD Displays, depending on the setup and settings they out-perform most displays in Respons Time, Refresh Rate, perceived color depth, and resolution, sometimes in the case of a good CRT all at once. Obviously, all of these things require at least some qualification and carry with them several exceptions but bare with me.

-------------

Specifications.
This will vary from monitor to monitor to monitor but here are some examples of what you can expect from your typical CRT Monitor.

CRT monitors come in various sizes the most common of which are 15" 17" 19" and 21" though many 21" monitors are actually only 19" diagonal display space. Why this was the case I don't know. The size often dictated the supported resolutions. While it was not standardized most CRT's (and video display drivers) will recognize a CRT's Native resolution as the one reported by the device as capable of 85hz. Which in MOST cases will not be the maximum supported resolution. I will cover this extensively later. CRT's worth obtaining will use at least one of the following connections. VGA(15pin Dsub), BNC, or 13w3. If you find a 13w3 only monitor it will be rough to get setup initially BUT due to SGI and MAC machines collectors will usually pay good money for a13w3 model so you may want to grab it anway and sell or trade it to someone in need. Let's look at some basic examples of common supported modes of operation.

Most random craigslist CRT's will support the following modes based on their size in FULL RGB (more on color later).
15"
1024x768p 85hz
1280x1024p 60hz

17"
1280x1024p 85hz
1600x1200p 60hz

19/21
1280x1024p 85hz
1600x1200p 60hz
(typically 80lbs!)

Here are the connectors you are looking for.

 
You can use a HDMI/DVI-I/DVI-D/DisplayPort to VGA adapter on any modern GFX card.

Now I know what your thinking. Why didn't the 19/21" Monitors improve? Well, they did, but most will still report those resolutions as the standard. But often they will support MUCH HIGHER modes that are not listed because most computers from this time period could not push high resolutions, convergence made clarity at high resolution for text difficult and possible bandwidth limitations for color space. Back in the 90's the assumption was that you would be buying a monitor primarily for work or school. Games were considered a secondary market that had very little impact on sales. So advertising or designing a monitor to report media oriented high-performance modes was considered either irrelevant or not considered at all.

Now let's get specific. For this guide, I will be using my Samsung SyncMaster 900NF. Typically googling a model number will return excellent results for most monitors. CNET seems to have an excellent database for CRT's.

Here is a link to detailed specifications.
https://www.cnet.com/products/samsung-syncmaster-900-nf-pg19nsbu/specs/

As you can see this 21" Monitor has only 18" of actual viewable space.
It's Native Resolution is above average.
1600x1200p at 87hz!
This is a good oppertunity to talk about exactly what that means. First, this is not the MAX resolution. This is simply the highest resolution OVER 60hz that the image can perform in FULL color without any apparent flickering. (More on flicker Later) Nvidia will still report this monitor as having a NATIVE resolution of 1280x1024p at 85hz. Iis actual MAX resolution is 2048x1536 at 60hz With limited color range.

Lets summerize.
1600x1200p 87hz Full RGB (Listed Product Native)
1280x1024p 85hz Full RGB (Nvidia's Native)
2048x1536p 60hz 444 (Max Resolution)

What's interesting is unlike an LCD these higher resolutions WILL be listed in Nvidia's settings AND windows settings above Native!


Unlike an LCD however, the actual resolution and refresh rate capable of being achieved is determined by the speed at which the magnetic field inside the CRT can sweep the electron beam across the surface. So when you look at old websites they will actually list 2 numbers for the monitor rather. Especially if those websites are techie websites. The list of "supported" resolutions and refresh rates were considered more like "Suggestions" than hard limits.

On the CNET page it lists the "Spec" for this monitor as
H - 30khz-110khz
V - 50hz-160hz

This means the monitor will support a horizontal refresh rate (what? yes, HORIZONTAL refresh) of 30-110 and a vertical refresh rate up to a massive 160hz! So great! Let's just set it to 2048x1536p 160hz full RGB and laugh that our dumpster dive monitor blows the doors off of most modern "Gaming" displays. WRONG!  Sadly that bit about Horizontal refresh rate is going to, unfortunately, rain on your parade. As you increase the speed the beam draws vertical lines, it MUST scan across the entire surface left to right before moving to the next line. So a higher verticle refresh rate is going to increase the horizontal refresh rate. Higher resolution ALSO increases horizontal refresh rate. If you tried to create a custom resolution this is what you would get. (More on how to do this later)




270khz is a big oof and not going to fly. We can play with these numbers here to get our actual max setting, which Im not going to dump another screenshot but I can tell you is 2048x1536p 68hz (which works out to 108.73khz Horizontal)

Generally speaking, plenty of good modes will be available in the Nvidia or Ati control panel from the start and you won't be expected to fiddle with custom resolutions much in order to get off the ground with your CRT Monitor. So stop reading and go game already.


-------------

Still here? Great. Let's go deeper.

If you want to make your own custom resolution you will need to use Nvidia's custom resolution settings OR a Custom Resolution Utility (AKA: CRU, Freeware https://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/custom_resolution_utility.html)
Let's do this with NVIDIA's driver directly as I will be able to cover many of the quirks and bugs. Also, it does a lot of the math for us so even if you abandon it later, it works as a good calculator. You COULD look up a calculator but most of them are very difficult to understand.

First, open Nvidia control panel. You must DISABLE Dynamic Super Resolution under "Manage 3d Settings" Once on the "Change Resolution Page" You may need to set a resolution first before "Customize" will become available. For some reason, if you click away from the current resolution or, frankly at random. Customize will be grayed out. Just set a new resolution and it should work. Once you can click Customize, Do it.


Your screen should be blank. But this is what it will look like once we start making new resolutions. Click the "Enable resolutions not exposed by the display." and then click create. That will bring you to the next screen which I will label for you.

Some Important notes as long as what you set here is inside your monitor spec you should be fine. Testing a signal outside the range of your monitor WILL NOT HARM IT. Simply the monitor will FAIL to display the image and may even tell you that the signal is out of range or sync out of range or bad cable whatever.

VERY IMPORTANT
Often the timing box will fail to auto-fill in all the grayed out boxes. Simply change the STANDARD dropbox from whatever it's set to... to anything else, then back to CVT. That will cause it to redo all the correct numbers.

ADVANCED AWESOMENESS!
You CAN render in whatever resolution you like. 4k, 8k, 16k even it's your graphics card you can blow it into a crater for all I care. This is useful for if you want to test out 4k on your LCD monitor and see if your PC can handle it. So this isn't CRT specific. At the top in "display mode" set your resolution, Say you have a 1080p 120hz monitor. 1920 1080 120. Then go to "Standard" Set it to CVT then back to Auto to force it to update. THEN change it to Manual. Once in manual set the Display Mode to whatever the hell you want. 3840x2160 at 60hz (higher refresh rates may not be supported) This will tell your graphics card to RENDER 4k, but output scaled down to 1080p This will not look great on your monitor. BUT the performance numbers will be real. You can also use this on your CRT to get 1080p working properly by telling the monitor to use a resolution it's comfortable with like 1280x1024 but render in 1080p. You could ALSO use this to test or force compatibility on UltraWide monitors. (See next post)

I love GN XD I just love how even on youtube, the Simpsons did it first XD

Just in case you missed it.
 

Engineering samples look very interesting. . . 2095 RX2 Maybe?

I was able to hunt down and correct small error's about part names and terms. There are things that could be explained further, like blanking, retrace, and how the green artifacts may actually be a limitation on the HDMI-VGA adapter rather than the monitor. BUT if you get those artifacts, either way, that method will still fix them so I did not revise that part.

If anyone has any questions or concerns post them here and I'll respond asap

Here are some great screenshots. Here it is next to my IPS monitor. Keep in mind that I'm still capturing the image with a phone which has limitations and you are looking at it on an LCD (most likely) which has its own limitations. You can't really see the additional perceived color depth in the image but it should be proof enough that it's at least in the ballpark for any skeptics out there. Also this monitor had a damaged anti-glare mask so its a little brighter and more washed out than it was designed to be. In person, it can still exceed all but my Quantum Dot monitor in black levels.



Here is the display running in 240p Displaying an emulated Sonic 1. The scanline effect on a TV is typically caused by blank lines inserted into the image to fake progressive by only drawing even or odd lines, In this image its true 240p the electron beam of the monitor is simply thin enough to fail at filling the entire image creating a very authentic feeling experience.



Here you can see LTT running in full RGB 4k (video stream in theatre mode) at a resolution of 2048x1536i 60hz

The chromatic banding you see is a camera artifact and not present IRL. Remember the camera focus is not perfect either. You can still, even at that res, even interlaced, even though the camera focus read 99% of the text. (Note Browser zoom was 125%)..... Also yes I did purposely choose the "I can never go back" new display technology video because of irony!

Here is the UFO test on my CRT at 2048x1536i Full RGB 60hz. Keep in mind this is Interlaced so if there is going to be separation it will show up here!

As you can see, if you zoom in, the scanline is at the top of the middle row. The image was taken with an exposure time of 1/60th of a second (It's important to make sure your exposure matches the display HZ). 1 Frame of "ghosting" can be seen in the dark and middle areas where the scan line is. Below the scanline, you can see 0 ghosting. This means that the image persists for LESS than 1/60th of a second. 

Lets go harder. This image is 800x600p Full RGB at 160hz Exposure was increased to 1/160 of a second. (It's important to make sure your exposure matches the display HZ)

Absolutely wrecked that test. Only 1 frame of ghosting visible in the top 2 bars. The scan line is JUST at the top of the yellowblack test circles of the dark blue segment. This means the ghosting lasts just under 1/160th of a second.

BUT I KNOW WHAT YOUR THINKING! How does this compare to a LCD?! Well my GT80 Titan gaming laptop has a 1080p 60hz Samsung PLS display. Let's take a look. Exposure set to 1/60th of a second. (It's important to make sure your exposure matches the display HZ)

Absolutely fucking destroyed. There are at least 3 frames of ghosting visible. The warning bar is simply because it could not resolve the actual refresh rate but it is locked in at 60fps moving the proper distance. (PLS is almost identical to IPS technology) Hands down the CRT devistates the LCD display. Unfortunately I don't have a high refresh rate LCD for comparison.

Here is the CRT running KCD at 2048x1536i Full RGB 60hz, Remember the artifacts and banding is the camera not the display.


To give you an idea of how much detail is actually there. Here is a zoom of the wooden fence next to the hut. This time the vertical lines you are seeing ARE real. But not visible from more than like.... 6 inches from the screen. Remember this is an extreme close up of an area of the screen about 1.5"x1" or 3cm X 2cm in size. Compare the image below with the one above to see just how close we are getting.

 In real life when your not fighting LGv30 focus you can see even more clearly but that image there should impress.

Anyway if there are any questions, or images you would like me to take for you please post them below or DM me.