Naveronasis

Here is a recent comparison shot I took of my 15.6" Oled and Samsung 1100DF CRT.

Hello! I see my post made it in from like 3 years ago! Thanks guys. I have learned a lot about tubes since then and have over 70 of them now! I was actually watching the video on my first oled monitor! (A tiny 15.6" Portable 4k Oled) and was considering if I should keep it or send it back because I still like my CRT as much if not more! XD What a small world. PS: That old post has a few errors and whatnot in it because I was still new to the technical CRT Details at the time but I am glad to see it had an impact

I had recently updated the bios, but I checked again for good measure, it was up to date. So randomly I opened the gigabyte bios utility to see if I could find out of it reported fTPM and Secure Boot, it doesn't, but it did report there was a bios update that WASNT listed on the website. It significantly helped. I know Secure Boot is on, windows keeps harassing me to go to win11 (it won't if you turn off secure boot) but I haven't checked fTPM. It's still being a little weird, but manageable weird. I will investigate further.

the same behavior is not present on my old slower PC. When it's maxed out on GPU it still streams smoothly, and windows doesn't lag. Like it knows how to manage multitasking properly. But yes, this is a work around, using afterburner or something to make the FPS low enough to account for overhead, but that doesn't always work.

Full Specs Windows 10 pro x64 5950x 32gb Trident Z Neo 3080ti EVGA FTW3 Hybrid 1000w Seasonic GPU C:\ WD_BLACK 2TB SN850 NVMe Game Drive:\ Samsung 970 pro 2TB GIGABYTE X570 AORUS PRO WIFI AM4 AMD X570 So the PC should be astronomical overkill for most tasks, and in games it's fine. But if a game is open and running the GPU to 100% everything else, obs, discord, chrome, start menu, everything is like 10fps or less. So I can't stream, I can't even multitask.

Not that it's terribly important, but why doesn't anyone? And not just in recent memory, as it is getting fairly old. Though I could point out that they still use heaven, but still, even when it was new you rarely saw any major tech site, LTT, Jay, GN, etc use Valley. Just thought there might be an interesting story or reason. And now, I will speculate: Guess 1: It didn't offer anything Heaven didn't, and so everyone would have to re-run all their old benchmarks to make new charts and it just wasn't worth it. Guess 2: It lacked some critical feature like tessellation that made it less useful. Guess 3: It has some fundamental flaw in it's performance that causes it to have some unacceptable run to run variance. I suppose you could ask the same question about superposition but I have at least seen it used on occasion.... even if not anymore.

I don't think you guys understand this case The picture above is looking into the case from the front. There is no "top" when I say top of the motherboard I mean... The "top" of the motherboard as if it were mounted in a standard tower case. there is no top, bottom, front, or back ventilation in this case. It was designed for a "wind tunnel" effect isolating the PSU and drives on the bottom and motherboard on top. There aren't even "front" drive bays. They are rotated 90 degrees to the right hand side of the case as pictured. THe PSU will vent from the inside of the case to the left without mods. The GPU is on the left. CPU on the right. So my question is. So we intake CPU or intake GPU. intake CPU side will be consistent with the PSU for optimal wind tunnel effect. or do we flip the PSU fan and intake GPU side to optimize GPU cooling since it will be doing the most work in the system. OR do we throw out wind tunnel effect and go for something unorthodox.

Specs because it will matter: 5950x Cooled with 240aio EVGA 3080ti ftw hybrid (240aio + blower style fan on card) Case: mountain mods H2GO (horizontal cube: see image) As pictured the case has 2 chambers. Top has from left to right: 2x 240 at the pcie side of the motherboard "below" the gpu. And 240 on the CPU side "Above" the CPU with holes in the back panel for circulation and wiring. But mostly for wiring. The bottom chamber has 1x 240 on the PCI side under the Mobo and 1 240 on the CPU/5" drive side. Do I intake gpu first or CPU first. Or do I force cross circulation and go intake bottom outtake top and risk a deadzone. Or go reverse air and go intake top outflow bottom. Unless I flip the PSU fan it will vent hot air no matter what. This makes me believe going out of the GPU radiator and IN the CPU Radiator will make the most sense and cause a nice wind tunnel effect but will be negative air pressure. If I flip the PSU fan it might cause a hotspot in the PSU but with a 1000w. PSU i don't forsee pushing it hard enough. Also it would get fresh air anyway not hot CPU air like in a normal air-cooled layout so maybe it would be fine. (Don't worry I am an electrician who rebuilds all kinds of high voltage stuff of a board level) this would allow me to intake on the entire gpu/pcie side of the case and could even result in positive air pressure. What do you guys think? My old setup GPU was air-cooled EVGA 1080ti black edition so blasting it with cold intake air made sense. This time it's not so clear. I'm leaning toward take all air in CPU and out PCIE side since GPU will probably be hottest in the system under load and this lets me vent the hottest air last and I won't have to worry about the PSU fan direction.

This varies on cards, but it is a very good point I hadn't considered.

This part I know isn't true. You can run a 4 lane NVME on a single lane with reduced speeds just like how you can run a graphics card on fewer or older lanes most of the time. So the drives will work (as long as the hardware is compatible) regardless if there are enough. I'm just trying to determine the most optimal way to configure the system. Also I haven't checked recently but 4tb nvme drives were exponentially more expensive than smaller capacities where buying 2x 2tb drives was significantly cheaper than 1x 4tb. Also I could store sensitive data on my NAS, run 1NVME for windows and 2 in raid 0 for other stuff... or just run all 3 or 4 drives in raid 0 or raid 5 for performance or redundancy rather than put all the eggs in one 4tb setup. T To be fair NVME is fast enough it probably doesn't matter. Sometimes I do these things just as an enthusiast for fun, like tuning your daily driver car. You're not going to be doing burnouts and driving 120 on the highway... but knowing you can, putting the build together, is just part of the fun. Then every once in a blue moon when you get to tap that performance it's a fun experience rather than an annoying "looks like I got to wait 3 hours for this file transfer." Lastly, as per the current shortage of parts, I am eternally grateful past me over-built my current rig.

If I buy a board with 3 NVME slots, or a 4x NVME AIC with 16x connectivity to the socket and a GPU like a 3080ti Do I really need to worry about PCIE lanes? I'm not looking to absolutely run everything at max all the time or anything. I just want to have storage options that don't require wiring for various reasons. Supposedly even modern GPU's won't max out PCIE lanes, so would it be okay to direct 16x lanes at an array of NVME drives and say 8 to the GPU? That makes 24 which I believe is what the 5950x has. Will having a limit on lanes to the storage effect depth performance since that is what will mostly be noticed anyway? I suppose unless I did some crazy 4x2tb NVME raid 0 there is never a time when all 4 drives would be hit at once (or 3 if they are motherboard mounted). I know these all might be some dumb questions since the rig will be mostly used for gaming, book writing, and occasional 4k video editing, and as such I should just let the mobo auto configure and even if each drive got 1 lane it would probably go un-noticed lol. Or perhaps do boards divert lanes based on demand? Not sure, never built something that has run up against a limit like this from achieving full performance. Ultimately, it's not a major concern. I am just wanting to get away from putting any Sata or HDD drives into my system and wanting at least 1tb-2tb for C and 4tb for software and games, and the big long term storage can be handled on my NAS. Proposed build: 5900x or 5950x 32g Ram (2x16 going for a 1:1 ratio so like 3600 or 3800 I forget ill look it up again when I go to buy) 3080ti PS: The reason I want 1-2tb on C is because I occasionally deal with very large zip files and 512gb on my current sata based SSD system is... insufficient. Basically I build a PC every 5-7 years so I usually go all out (within reason, I'm not getting a Threadripper) rather than dealing with more frequent upgrades. I might wait for the next gen of Ryzen anyway, but scalpers and parts... idk It sucks to build right now by my X99 setup with a 1080ti is starting to feel a bit... sluggish when 4k gaming or 1080p 240hz gaming. Also I think my 512 sata drive is starting to Trim, I should probably check that.

Now if only we could get Nvidia to make one in that color, it actually looks pretty sharp.

I was literally just about to post this very same thread. Showing the difference between what reviewers have been tearing down, and what all the promo material says. I have been using TUF boards since... 3770k and they have all been extremely reliable. I miss the thermal shielding on the newest non-x299 versions. Software (ai-suite) is good when it works, though when it works seems to be never. I wanted a TUF 3080 or 3090 BEFORE seeing the problems, now I want one even more. Idk if I'm happy it will be the most reliable, or sad it will be harder to get. Hopefully the 3070 comes out and the pressure will be off, except in winter time my job goes into overtime from nov til January so it's the worst time of year for me.

Trying to decide on the best method to do a local redundant drive. Now understand, I know that for backups cloud storage or a NAS or other dedicated external solution is best. I don't care. I want to do what I want to do. So given the limitations here we go. Using my main PC I wan't to have some semblance of automatic parity for active projects and files. A long time ago (2007) I had 4 drive raid array managed through windows that worked fine. Eventually it fell out of sync and while I was able to recover all of my data easily (only 1 drive "failed" to sync) It wouldn't rebuild the array. Whatever, fine, mission accomplished the data was safe. I want to do something similar again. I'm just using windows 10, I will be upgrading soon (And this won't be setup until I have the new Motherboard). Should I go with another windows raid? Or motherboard raid solution (probably going AMD Ryzen 9 or TR) If so.. Should I bother with Raid 5/10 or just mirror the drives? The primary used of this array will be to dump large collections of files, maybe some active use for large video editing projects. So photo's, rom's, word docs, video files, just locally not over a network so if I decide to mount a rom/play a video file I don't have to wait on the cloud or my home network to keep up or buffer.

or a 7950gx2 I love those thing's I want one to use as a decoration.

I wonder if they ever made a 290x with a dual fan so I can test smaller cases too. Good one.

Yeah I thought maybe I could just look up power consumption statistics because power basically is heat, but It's been hard finding a decent "list" compiled in one place. But those did come to mind.

Is there a relatively current NOT blower style card that runs kind of hot in the 100-200 dollar range? I was thinking of doing some case reviews and I'm trying to build a low-cost system that produces above average heat to sort of get real world comparable results by transplanting the same system to various cases then loading them with a specific set of fans to compare. It's going to be more than just "graphs" opinions about how nice it is to build in and features will be included ill leave the hardcore laboratory stuff to gamers nexus. Anyway, none of that is important. I just need to find a graphics card that recirculates heat into the case and produces a decent amount of it, without breaking the bank or requiring a massive overclock.

Well the R7 has 2 5.25" bays but the problem is what I use them for. I make blu ray discs on occasion and still have an optical drive, but more important I use the second bay for a custom front panel connection board. The downside is the R7 has a door on the front, and isn't meant to be seen with the door "Always Open" as it would be in my case. this isn't a vanity project (well not entirely) my desk looks somewhat borg like with all the cables, but ill often have multiple devices quick charging or multiple external drives working on projects, etc. So right now my front panel has a 6 port usb3 with 4 quick charge ports and a card reader bay installed next to the Blueray drive. I also have a front panel control board installed to give me toggle switches for all the internal lighting and whatnot, but I suppose that is optional. (as it's inclusion would require 3 bays at least)

Right now I have an ancient Mountain Mods H2GO case. I love it's full atx hoizontal deisgn but its... extremely dated... by today's standards. Is there anyone else who still makes custom cases that aren't designed from scratch anymore? (aka not looking for protocase) Short of that I want a new case but I have some unusual specifications. Specifications: 2x or more 5.25 drive bays. Space for at least 5x 3.5" drives. Non-horizontal GPU mount option that does not block PCI slots. So alternative mounting, or 90 degree rotated case, or horizontal MB config. Full ATX motherboard support. Glass/Acrylic window. One of the things I like about the H2GO case is the space it has for upto 6x mechanical drives and how the bottom fans are so close and blow air DIRECTLY onto the GFX card. I have gotten better cooling results out of the H2GO's fan configuration than out of water cooling thanks to this, though I do plan to completely water cool future builds anyway. I also like the footprint of the case, being compact but with enough space to cram all kinds of full size stuff into it. What I don't like is how much it costs in 2020, how poor the window options are. The too-low clearance for modern air cooling in a pinch. So I was entertaining alternatives and finally after almost 20 years retiring this case to a backup or HTPC. In the image below (not my build im too lazy to take a pic) you can see how super-compact it is, and how insanely close the fans are to the GFX cards, this build is water cooled, but you could just imagine using a lower PCI-E slot with air cooling how much airflow hits the card. Currently I have a 1080ti EVGA Black edition (with the spiderweb style shroud) which allows me to maximize the potential here. I'm not too concerned with having a compact case, it was just nice. My main goal is to fit all the hardware I want, and not have GPU sag or a giant cooler hanging off my socket. Which again, I know, I could water cool. But still. Also I use most of my PCI slots for things, so I cant have a horizontal mount that obstructs where you mount the GFX card against the window and use a PCI-E extension cable. But maybe there is one that doesn't obstruct. Anyway, I'll probably end up using the case again for my next build even though it has frustrating limitations (like where the fuck to put a reservoir/pump, or having to rebuild half the PC to swap power supplies or doing any cable management at all whatsoever) Look forward to hearing your suggestions. Thanks!

I never asked about GPU but by mentioning SLI It was implied I am going Nvidia. Although it dawned on me as soon as I posted this before the edit you may have been referring to the tile based rendering performance, which yes, is part driver bound. Anyway not entirely sure how that relates to my CPU choice, it's not like they make Nvidia chipsets anymore XD.

I have a 3x NVME M.2 Setup with a single GPU, was thinking of going to SLI if they get this new tile based system going well. I tend to run triple 4k, play mostly sightseeing games at 60fps 4k. So that being the case, Can I still get by on a Ryzen 3, or do I need to go to Thread Ripper or X299? Currently I have a x99 setup. Is quad channel memory and more lanes required for my setup? Or will chipset lanes be enough. (I understand the memory and pice lanes are different things. Just going for brevity.) I also edit 4k video but not very long clips and not very often, so I'm not too worried about rendering speed these days. But I figured I would include that. Money isn't really an object but I don't like to spend money I don't have to. So I would like to get setup with a new board and CPU for around 1000, but am willing to go upto 3k if it removes a bottleneck somewhere. Even if it wont improve games, if im going to lose a bunch of bandwidth to the drives because of limited lanes or something I would rather just spend the money. I also have a ton of USB 3 devices. External storage and stuff. We also play 4 player local multiplayer on games that support it and emulators etc. From what I understand you use like 4 lanes for ports. 16 lanes for the GPU 4 lanes for each NVME drive. So it sounds like I need 32 lanes in order to avoid limitations. vOv But then again if I was sure about that, I wouldn't be asking.

I have an old laptop I am putting a SSD into. However, the old laptop is not currently operational, so I thought "Hek I'll just toss it in my drive toaster and copy it to the new drive via my desktop." Should be easy enough. Whelp I was wrong. Since the SSD is smaller, and since EVERY FREE UTILITY ON EARTH only wants to migrate my MAIN OS DRIVE as the source and not let me choose a source I am at a startling lack of software to get the job done. To be clear. System: Boot OS: C: 500gb Blank Drive: D: 500gb Laptop Boot Drive: E: 1tb (only 89gb used) Want: I want to migrate E onto D. Problem 1: Every free migration tool wants to migrate C onto D. Problem 2: Every free clone tool wants D to be 1tb+ in size and wont smart-trim the empty space. Things I tried: Shrinking the free space out of the patrician on the laptop drive. 10 different software solutions. Praying to god. Praying to Satan. None of these things worked :( especially Satan, he sent me a bill too. Where am I supposed to get a soul at 8pm on a Sunday night? I guess I can wait till I have the memory to put in this thing so I can boot it up. (I do know it works I gave the memory away a while back). But I don't like to give up so easily. So if anyone has a solution I'm all ears.

Thinkpad may be the best option off the top of my head... still open to suggestions!

I need a laptop for a very specific use application. I need to do a lot of writing while traveling. So I need something with an extremely durable keyboard and a very long battery life. I am a novelist, but I spend a lot of time outdoors and traveling. The closer the keyboard is to a normal one, the better, I have large hands and do a lot of typing on a standard mechanical keyboard at home. Things that do NOT matter. Size Weight Brand Gaming Price Literally, money/size is no object, I already carry around a GT80 Titan, but the battery life isn't enough. But if I can save money by getting a normal laptop VS an ultralight, I want a normal laptop. The only things I care about are Typing experience and battery. IF I can save money going slightly thicker, fine. If I get a better typing or battery experience going bigger, Fine. it just needs to have the best of those 2 things. I don't plan on gaming on it, or video, or even web surfing. Just working on my novel outside and on the road. PS I got the GT80 Titan for reasons OTHER than writing. I just feel like I should mention that since I'm sure at least one person is going to say "well, of course, the GT80 Titan is awful for battery life, it's an SLI gaming desktop replacement." I know. That's why I bought it like 2 years ago when I had different needs. Now I need a PC for writing. Some Tiny things that do matter, but secondary. LED keyboard, because I type in the dark a lot. Numpad, if possible. Video out, and at least 2 USB ports. No smaller than 15" unless it's VERY cheap and still meets other requirements. I'll probably replace all drives with solid state drives if not already for battery/shock resistance if it has mechanical. 16gb ram or an empty slot to make it 16+ Not apple. Strong hinge. It will not live its life on a desk.