Naveronasis

Has nothing to do with QPI, it has everything to do with, and especially windows 7, having issues with synchronizing games that support multithreading. So for compatibility reasons you would possibly want to limit available cores to 4 or 2 or even 1 in some rare cases depending on the game. Even games that don't crash outright there can be smoother performance. Making sure they are all on the same CPU is just an extra step that can be taken to eliminate variables. As someone who ran SLI with 2 and for a short time 3x 970's I had gone out and bought a 2560x1600 and 4k monitor at the time and it was very much an unpopular choice due to issues with 60fps limit and poor ghosting, and many (though not mine) 4k monitors having to use 2 inputs for enough bandwidth. If you were min-maxing your gaming experience it would have really come down to FPS vs PPI and so it would have depended if you were more in to civ or mmos or moba/fps. I was mostly playing strategy games, but you don't need a super expensive system most of the time since even a bad FPS rate is playable in a turn based game. 970 was keen to run out of memory at 4k and even 1440p (though yes I did have an actual 16:10 1600p monitor). I had been running SLI in systems since the very beginning with the 7800, 280, then 480, but both my 480's died and I had a single 560 for way too long, then 970sli one card was the wrong batch so it wasn't recognized without some hacks so I bought a 3rd one, tested out 3way for a short time before sending the unpaired one back to EVGA, 1080sli but it was not very good anymore so I sold one 1080ti, I also have a 965m titan MSI SLI laptop, and in my desktop back to a single 3080ti here in 2024. 1080p was absolutely the way to go if you were trying to absolutely maximize performance with SLI. Especially since some of that hitching could be reduced at higher FPS rather than higher resolution. Yes, you could spend more money by going 4k, and if you have 10k to spend on a system you have probably more money than sense... but as an enthusiast platform, and enthusiast presumably would know how to get the most mileage out of the system. Running the 980 to its memory limits with 4x msaa at 1440p/1600p/4k isn't a good time no matter how many of them you have.

Okay so this video and some of the comments near left me scratching my head. Now I suppose some of what I'm about to say would break the point of the video but you guys didn't really achieve due diligence if you wanted to see how much performance you could get. Now granted this is advanced stuff but so would be the people buying this board. Run win10 for compatibility, otherwise 7 is fine. Linus was right the SSD is not the problem and bootstrapping a NVME would have taken PCIE lanes needed for GPU stuff possibly but even if it has the lanes to spare not going to improve performance on most games (looking at you rift apart) But you could have limited cores, dedicated them on 1 CPU rather than letting it do whatever it wants. Also should have used Nvidia inspector to test out alternative SLI modes. Companies avoided copying each other profiles and different modes (split screen, alternate frame, etc) work better or worse based on the number of cards and engine. Supporting 2 way SLI with one mode doesn't mean 4way isn't better in a different mode and the number of cards is also often limited in the profile. You can do with with no programming skill. Basically a bit like regedit but easier and safer. Next I would have stuck with 1080p since that was still peak for your 980s even though 1440p and 4k were out this was when the first high refresh rate monitors were also coming out in only 1080p. But a few higher res tests wouldn't have been okay but doing all 1440p with max setting, especially traditional aa (Msaa or ssaa) with only 6gb of vram is also a recipe for failure. Also could have benched some CPU games like civ or factorio or whatever.

I don't want it synced across multiple devices. Basically I have all the important files on my main PC backed up, mirrored to the NAS. But several other computers will cherry pick those files, and might even add to them.

Here it is in action.... how many Easter eggs you can find lol

I found "Free File Sync" seems to actually be really good.... though there is a "paid" version called "donation version" but its a "name your own price" deal. So you can get some really great things outta it for the price of a coffee.

Specifically I want to mirror the files there so that they are a backup but also accessible remotely.

I forgot I have AOMEI installed, was just using it for unrelated reasons and saw the backup option... is their backup software good? or is there a better option?

Ive had a synology nas for a while, but I basically just copy files I want to back up to it manually. What is the best preferably free/open source software to use so I can designate folders to automatically mirror to the device?

Hey, you guys used my post on CRT's a few months ago. Not only that but I HAVE an indextron AND I know what's wrong with yours. The problem is that the liquid glycol cooling forms crystals very slowly over time when i comes in contact with metal, typically aluminum. The solution is to drain the loop, run it through a coffee filter, put CLR into the screen tank to dissolve the crystals, drain that, then put glycol in. Your projector seems dim compared to mine as well. And mine does not have glycol crystalization. I have a CRT projector that does and I would be willing to donate if you want to try this out. Its a sony coffee table projector. Since the post you guys used I have learned alot, I work for a retro gaming studio as Lead Level Designer and I have about 70 tubes... and Plasma stuff... Including some other really rare PC monitors, like a pro Lacie Electron Blue 22 Calibration monitor, and new in box SGI 13w3 monitors and some old 50's stuff that still works... So yeah, you want tubes? You want to see where we make new Genesis cartiges at work? I can probably figure some things out with you guys.

I have a 5tb HDD that has died, the data on it, worthless anyway. Is there a way to have the drive salvaged to use as a insecure dump drive for like a game library or temporary file shuffleing/something fun to play with? Budget is like......................................... 50 or less, at 75 I can just buy a 10tb used data center disk, was just trying to get this thing back on its feet rather than contributing to e-waste.

Anyone know of a working solution?

I found all those so far, the windows power tools wont do it.

I am trying to multibox in eve online, this is perfectly allowable by the rules. However, I wanted to split 4 instances of the game up on 1 4k monitor. HOWEVER, I dont want to run them in windowed mode with a border and a title bar. Is there any way to split the 4k monitor into 4 virtual monitors so I can run each instance in its own "windowed fullscreen" mode? I have found lots of tools to custom divide up the screen into regions, but none that are free that allow me to do it where windows sees 4 "monitors". Some paid apps sound like they might be able to, but I dont want to give money over to someone for "maybe". I want to know for sure before I do that.

Well... maybe I can find a toasted Legion 5 to test on before I take my good one apart then >.>

This is a bit of an odd one, need help from some people who don't mind getting their hands dirty and thought I might have a better chance finding the right people in the build section rather than the pre-built section. I have a Lenovo Legion 5 What I want to do is replace the 15.6" 120hz ips panel (dp40) with a Oled Panel (1080p, though right now I only seem to be able to find 4k ones sold loose) I know that BOTH the laptop and the Samsung Panels are DP40, but I don't know if the fit would be "good enough" and if the laptop will provide enough power. I dug into the specs as much as I could and came up empty. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Yeah, well... you can get loose 4k ones (panel and dp40 controller only) for the price of retail 1080p But that requires some tech skills... but a neat option for many 15.6 laptops as a screen upgrade. I was skeptical at 600, but really, honestly, it is THAT good if you don't mind cozying up to it very close. I was playing Factorio on it and it made me want to cry it's so nice, and factorio doesn't lend itself well to "small monitors" normally, but the contrast makes everything clear and readable, and the motion blur while its only 60, and still sample and hold, is so greatly reduced that its still much better than my other non-CRT displays.

I am thinking of making a 2.0 of this thread... I could update it. But I think it's better to start fresh and provide a link to the OG thread. I have learned a lot since the initial post. I should write more, I did this back when my leg was broken and I had unlimited time. I have over 70 tubes now... and I have begun to show the more rare/expensive one's off at trade shows. (Specifically PGX). I also have an interest in other display tech... So I have some oled stuff and pvm's and presentation monitors, giant CRT projectors, Indextron, and all kinds of neat stuff now.

They make 27 and 32" RGB oled but not Woled or QD Oled yet and RGB Oled is very expensive (like... thousands and only available in pro market spaces). There is a limitation based on how many can be cut from a sheet and you have to tool the machine specifically for it. So its not... complicated, but there has to be a market. Larger tv's make sense because movies and mixed viewing are low risk for burn in. 15.6" for laptops is low risk because they can limit brightness and people toss the whole unit after 3ish years (in the high end market where oleds are found typically.) I believe the fear about coming out with a 24~32" unit is that this is the range where people tend to sweet spot monitors and keep them for near a decade and that just isn't going to fly with Oled and burn in for desktop. People leave desktops on, use them for long hours, move primary displays into secondary displays as they buy new tech. Eventually the burn in will become a problem, and even if its out side of warranty 5 years down the road, they don't want the negative public perception. At least that's my tinfoil conspiracy. 15.6" isn't so bad (see my above post) remember the screen size in relation to your field of view changes based on distance. Get a tiny 15.6" tablet holder (they exist for 40~70 bucks) and you can set your keyboard under it and sit comfortably close enough that it is plenty large. Trust me, I am 6"4, if I can get close enough, so can you

I have multiple of these. The best one is the C-Force 4k. It is very bright, and has extensive options for balancing black levels to prevent crushing. You can get mysterymeat ones on ali express for sub 200, but on amazon it's in the 600 range. However its so good I stopped using almost all other displays when im gaming. They boast 550 nits... but I was able to measure them at like 350-400 using my phones light meter (so not exactly scientific but good enough to say they arent low brightness)... and they are brighter than my first gen quantum dot VA 32" panel from samsung. The actual pannels are all samsung I believe, as far as I know samsung is the only one making 15.6" Oled pannels. As far as color, contrast, brightness, motion blur, only my tubes, and my 240hz DLP projector can top it. I wrote an entire article on the Innocn 15.6 on blur busters forum but it died and since ive had the c-force it's been amazing. No internal batter or touch in that unit either, which may suck for features, but that also means less to go wrong.

Yes

Found a legion 5 last year model 3060 130tgp 5600 for 999. Snagged it. Thanks!

The 3060 16" version has a very good looking tgp. Maybe this is the one. Io is garbage but I don't mind using a hub.

1080i should pass directly through natively and no change should be needed. It's for 720p or 480i or 240p where the processing delay is present. If your using component adapter then play with the interlaced/progressive option in user menu. 540p should also pass through natively. Should... Also some laptops apparently have issues with latency over external connections so If your using a laptop make sure the output isn't being scaled and that the external display is actually being routed directly from the GPU and not through igpu like how many usbc ports and mini display ports are on some models.

I need a laptop WITHOUT igpu bottleneck due to proprietary software I'm using. Nvidia and and have really fucked the market up with this absolutely absurd power limit and Optimus shit. I've been looking at this for a week and I still can't find what I'm looking for. Between manufacturers not posting specs and Amazon listings giving you a grab bag of 2020/2021 results in place of 2022 models I can't find what I need. Maybe you guys can help. I need a 1080p 3060/3050ti laptop that can completely disable igpu to both the internal and external display over HDMI for 800-1500 usd. That's it. I can upgrade ram and HDD on my own so that's a non issue. I don't care about display hz or color or battery life anything like that though of course in a final hair splitter I prefer better response time to high refresh rate or color but would like to hit at least 100% srgb in an ideal world.

You are blatantly wrong about burn in on CRT. The reason you would see CRT's get burn in at government buildings and arcades and terminals is because they were left on static images for 10k hours+++. Ordinary CRT use did NOT cause measurable burn in. Projectors were more prone to burn in but even most second hand projectors don't show signs of over-use in this way. As a teen I bought my first TV, a curved Philips CRT with component input. I used it for thousands of hours playing Genesis, N64, Dreamcast, PS2, Gamecube and PS3, then as a back up TV for over a decade without it showing any signs of burn in. I have used hundreds of tubes, collect, and repair them. Burn in is exceptionally rare. Now as for service and maintenance. There is some validity to this claim. They are never perfect, and always suffer some drift in the geometric performance. These adjustments are annoying, but typically can be compensated for through service menus in 90's and 2000's sets but yeah, okay this is much more likely to be a problem. Electron Gun life is typically 30k-70k hours for half brightness at a minimum and over 100-150k hours before the tube is so dim you need to adjust G2 or Rejuve, or Replace the tube. IF you are buying a tube to use as a gaming only, or retro only, display then you can go decades without hitting this mark. The consumer TV tubes shown in this video are still often found for free. Only the PC monitor Linus bought is expensive because it is exceptionally rare and considered "best of". Yes, a rare tube will cost but any Toshiba AF, JVC D-Series, or JVC I-Art, Many Sony WEGA, and Samsung Dynaflat, or late RCA TruFlat can be had for free on a daily basis if you are up for no more than an hour long drive each way in any part of the US and most of Canada. To the final points, yes they are heavy, yes they are size limited (up to 40" only) and yes they use more power than an OLED or LED, but LESS power than a Plasma.