Biggerboot

That makes sense.  I wasn't sure if there were new discoveries though - I can't remember if there was always a separation between wattages.  I may go with something else either way.
 
Edit: I went for the Super Flower Leadex III Gold
https://www.newegg.com/super-flower-leadex-iii-sf-650f14hg-650w/p/1HU-024C-00007?Item=9SIAMNPAY44593

I'd say save your money for a new rig.  But between those two, the 5700.  1060 to 2060 isn't really going to benefit you.

1st gen real time ray tracing, that in the 20 series RTX cards... isnt worth it. The performance hit is to high.
 
IMO if ur looking at the kind of budget u have, u should consider a used 1080ti or the AMD 5700XT

I wouldn't build a system just for ray tracing, however it just so happens the best GPU's at the moment have it.
At no point did RT factor into me buying my cards. Set a price in your mind, say $600 and find the best performing card at that price.

- The high-voltage circuit capacitor (680 μF x 400 V)  manufactured by the Japanese company Panasonic and belongs to the high-temperature series (up to 105 ° C).
- semi-bridge resonant converter (pair of field effect transistors G30N60E with separate radiator) 
- The ICE2HS01G chip is responsible for the correct operation of the main converter, and ICE3PCS01 is responsible for the APFC.
- The voltage of the main line + 12V is generated by a synchronous rectifier, made on six field effect transistors IRFH7004PBF.
- The power part consists of four SM3117N transistors (three for each channel), which are controlled by the APW7159 PWM controller.
- Noise filtering is performed using solid state capacitors - Enesol and Fujitsu.
- A lot of capacitors made by United Chemi-Con
- OVP / UVP / OPP / SCP / OCP / OTP
- Yate Loon D14BH-12 140mm low noize high efficency fan (rolling bearing)
- circuit design is quite good overall 
 
So i think Chieftec NAVITAS  PSU can be at list in "B" category

There are some PSU brands exclusive to certain regions that may not show up in the list.  Or there just aren't any reviews of that platform.
 
But iirc Chieftec generally isn't good.  You may just get by with it depending on use case/luck.

Hello!
All models in the NAVITAS series were very good when they were released, and all of them used the best technology their respective manufacturers had to offer at their time. All of them were high end.
 
As for why they're not listed here, or why you may hear there's something wrong with them... that I don't know.

@OrionFOTL @LukeSavenije
 
The report on the release of the unit (GD, 2019) reported the OEM as FSP from Tomshardware Computex reporting in May.

My only suggestion would be to lay out reasoning behind each tier. What makes a Tier A+ an A+? What makes a Tier A? etc. The current format is fine with me. As long as the information is accurate I'm fine.

In your case the value proposition may not be as sweet for the XT if it's 40 pounds more.  They should be priced the same.
 
But I would also keep expectations subdued on the raytracing side of things.  I think it'll be a very situational benefit unless maybe you're a developer.

pretty much
 
the undervoltage protection could stop it, but someof them don't work well, so i'd recommend multi rails
 
there's no downside to a proper multirail i'm aware of

For less than about 650w, single rail is fine. 750w and above, multi-rail is ideal. It's about protecting your system and isolating the problem/failure more effectively. 

To me if I'm in the neighborhood of spending $400 on a board I may as well get the best, that usually being whatever Asus is offering at the top.  MSi does generally give you good value though and with the 400 series they really delivered in the mid range.
 
But if you're telling me to completely ignore reviews and go with my gut, Asus Crosshair.

*Edit* missed seagate's response.
 
Yeah, that would be what they described.

NVMe SSDs don't always show in the BIOS/UEFI. The BIOS/UEFI needs to be developed with that in mind for you to see the device connected. I'd email HP. 

*Edit* missed seagate's response.
 
Yeah, that would be what they described.

Impossible to say. I've had HDD's die at 15k hours, and I've got HDD's that still run perfect at over 50k hours.

Until it doesn't - so at this point:
 
 

Thanks for sharing! 

Thanks for the effort. It's appreciated.
 
I know what I am asking is rather niche and limited.

660p will be faster most of the time, Blue might have better write endurance but both should be fine. I would go 660p.

years man years!!!

Test with ATTO or Crystal Disk Mark and post the results 

*sigh* it's fine for the price.
Sata 2 caps at 300mb/s.  It could make a different in sequential reads/writes but I don't think it makes a difference in normal use.  I don't know what he's using to measure his drive though.

Eh, all he should take away is to google what's he's buying.  "A400 review" will tell you it doesn't get those speeds.  But it also costs half of a samsung evo so it's a fine value.