TVwazhere

@Real_PhillBert @NinJake don't know if you guys still have your ST's but be prepared to potentially have to replace your master clutch cylinder if you haven't already. In hindsight this job wasn't the absolute worst. Taking out the air box and battery box is annoying but doable. The bolts holding the pedal assembly are a little hard to get to but with the right(very long) extensions and a universal joint, they'll come out. (Yes I need to clean my interior) Be careful not to break the sensors (like I did) sadly the top sensor is impossible to install on the bracket before reinstalling it on the car, so you gotta put the new assembly in first, then install the top sensor with your arm elbow deep into the dash from underneath. Worst part for me was bleeding the clutch. I had no pressure in the clutch bleeding it all the "normal" ways, and even renting a vacuum bleeder pump until I ordered a power bleeder for the brake fluid resevior. All in all, worst project I've ever had to do in the car, but I knew that going into this so I made sure to take breaks from being back down with my head under the dash for extended periods of time.

I'm on team "Headlights are too bright" especially those that don't properly push the low beams down into the road rather than up into the eyes of other drivers. I used to think this was just an issue with owners changing out perfectly working bulbs for cheap LED headlights that scatter light everywhere, but my friends new (2020) Toyota corolla definitely has the cutoff be basically horizontal with the hood of the car instead of tilted down at the road. When shopping for new fog lights I was scared to go LED, but I found good ones that are designed to worlk with my weirdly shaped rectangular ones (Diode Dynamics) and even have a yellow option.

Very weird that the overview shows 2 fan slots at the bottom of the case, but the Tech specs dont list any fan compatibility at the bottom. Looking at this layout and PCPP, I think this would be the best layout. https://pcpartpicker.com/b/VmZZxr (Watercooled) https://pcpartpicker.com/b/KwfPxr (Air Cooled) Typically, the key in this situation is making the bottom (intake) fans spin faster than the top/Rear fans (exhaust) Though this rule can be broken in this case specifically because this case is entirely dust filter-y mesh everywhere, so a small negative air pressure wouldn't be the worst thing.

My head fucking hurts, but I still found it interesting

Compared to every other AM5 motherboard ont he market currently, this one felt like the best value for the features I actually wanted and cared abou t(lots of USB's, SPDIF, an EZ-Debug code reader, multiple PCI-E drive locations and a good price.) Personally dont care about RGB on a motherboard or how much armor it has. For reference, I found this spreadsheet which helped me easily compare feature sets.

It will fit. "E-ATX" is mainly a garbage marketing term for any board officially longer than ATX (9.6" / 244mm), the only official board size longer than ATX is SSI-CEB (10.5", which is what the AsRock Taichi is), and SSI-EEB (13" / 330mm) which is "True E-ATX" (it has a fourth set of standoff supports) This photo below shows how much room is with the ATX board, 1" / 25mm will not cause an interference fit and barly cause issues with the rubber grommets. Photo Source As a Side note, I purchased the B650E Taichi lite, and saved $150 to get rid of all that "Armor" which does nothing. Literally the same board, and is a decent value at $250-280, but terrible at $400.

Yes; AutoCAD does not heavily use a GPU for any of it's processes other than outputting the resulting images (your UI) so the main thing is AutoCAD (SketchUp as well) have a high IPC, high speed single core requirement. More cores dont help unfortunately.

Phew I just made it!

I kept my S10+ for four years, and it was technically fine when I traded it in(hence I got a good trade in value for it) and it would have lasted me probably another year or so. At seven years, I imagine the phone itself will probably either fail or you'll want to upgrade because technology had advanced noticeably by then (I noticed the difference between the S10+ and S23U pretty immediately)

Most people are. It's a camera that has internet access for social media.

I have the S23U, and looking at the S24 there's nothing I care about that I wish my S23U had, except seven years of software support instead of four. For $300 less, I'd re-buy the S23U again. Honestly, I saw almost no difference other than the S23U is oversaturating some phots, whereas the S24U is more natural (something I've noticed on my phone and can be annoying at times where I'm trying to get color accurate photos, but it is what it is, i can correct the photos later when I've needed to)

Please post again. There is currently no plan to automate the process.