ThatSpecialGuy

I've witnessed a whole new cat6 cable... Like... I literally never seen this color scheme before. I'm used to the white-orange, orange, white-green, blue, white-blue, green, white-brown, brown scheme. The abomination I saw today had no -white. It had 3 white cables. I'm assuming this is cat6a or some random Alie express ordered cable and this old couple got scammed with?

I'm just considering dropping nvidia forever. It rather annoys me that not even 3-4months after the 2060 it's release they suddenly come with the super line up as a retaliation towards AMD. I bought a rtx 2060 as upgrade for my r9 390, and while it's normal that stronger cards will come, but stopping with a line up thats barely a half year old and replacing it with cards that are like what... nearly twice as strong for the same price is just... "fucked up". Now I feel like short circuiting one of the display ports on mine to RMA it and hope they give me the RTX 2060s as a replacement in a few months....

I upgraded to a rtx 2060 myself a few weeks ago and I don't regret it. I'd say do NOT get this card if you have RT in mind. But instead you do get something nice that the 1070ti/1080 don't get and it's already mentioned. DLSS is supposed to give a better performance boost compared to TAA. It's definitely a great card for the price and I don't regret it myself. I also have to say that I wouldn't even consider a used card if I can a new card for the same price and have better performance than a 1070ti and close to a 1080.

It's definitely worth it, but I'd say get a bigger one. 120gb isn't enough for games these days and you need to consider that 120gb is actually only around 100gb usable storage. Then you have to take away another 20-30gb for windows and that barely leaves you with 60-70gb. You really don't need the fastest of the fastest SSD around. Especially not if you're on a budget. I'd say look into the crucial or adate SSDs. They're pretty good and really affordable. You could pick up a Crucial BX500 480gb for 59 euros (probably cheaper in USD, cause VAT is a bitch). Apacer has a 960gb ssd for 105 euros (once again, probably cheaper in usd if you're from america).

Ended up drilling a small hole in one of them with the size of a m2 and gave it a screw thread within. Ordered a set laptop screws and will just wait a few days before I actually mount it in my system, cause I'm just not comfortable with it having a downward seating position, instead of a straight one.

This and no hole on top to put a tiny screw in or whatever. Got 2 of these, one for each m.2 slot.

It's basicly a tiny thumb screw. So it's made of entirely one part. not the usual "rest" platform and a tiny screw to tighten the m.2 ssd.

Oddly enough this mobo came with some odd m.2 screws. Like it puts the ssd into a slope position. I'm assuming this doesn't hurt it in any way, but it's kinda awkward to have 2 of these and not something else that would put it in a straight position.

It is actually possible, though. It really depends on the country you live in and the overall temps it usually runs on. If you live in a warm area, you game frequently/every day and you have the card overclocked. You could have dried up thermal paste and on top of that you could have close to dried up thermal pads. Now if you live in a more humid area and don't really game that much then I'd say it wouldn't be dried up. You could try some things in the past that I had to do with a R9 390. At one point it would shut off once it reached 80c and for some reason it was simply solved by using msi afterburner and putting the power limit on -20.

Recent built a new PC, but kept my old card that I bought like 3-4 years ago and wanted to upgrade it to the 2060. I know I'll have a nice performance boost (well... insane performance boost, by more than 50% in most games according to some benchmarks I looked at), but the issue I have is that I have zero experience with gigabyte hardware. Also the limit I'm willing to spend is 400 on a xx60 series card, so outside of the founders edition there really isn't much choice. Anyone that has experience with the Windforce coolers from Gigabyte could tell me if their noise and temp levels are acceptible? (I've always preferred asus or msi myself).

Got a bit of a weird issue going on here. Usually happens when I run a game for a while. My PC starts having a long beep that doesn't turn off till I turn off the PC and turn it back on. Though sometimes it doesn't happen at all. At first I thought it was a overheating cpu, but aparently it's not, cause it still happens even after re-applying the thermal paste. Other things I tried: - Taking out ram and running the PC till it happens with 8gb and 16gb. While using different sticks each time. - Running the PC with my old R9 390 gpu - Taking out the AIO cooling and running it with a cooler master evo 212 air cooling Specs: GTX 1080 Intel i7 7700k 32gb ram Asus prime z270 Corsair hydro series h110i 1tb samsung evo 840 500gb samsung evo 850

But air coolers in general are cheaper. And why spend like 100 euros on a Air cooler when you have the Corsair evo 212, scythe ninja 4 or Noctua NH-D9L. If you're dead set on going that price you could opt for a Noctua NH-D15.

I'm not really into buying a keyboard for 50 dollars when I'm planning to pick up a k70 rgb lux in 2 weeks.

It's been going on for years now. Not only in America, but the rest of the world. It's only more obvious over there, because of the retarded deals ISPs have. The only thing that will change is that companies have to be more open about it. Which can be a good AND bad thing.

So as the topic says. My current keyboard got murdered by my cat when she bumped over my tea. I was looking at some temporary no name brands cause cheap and temporary and saw sharkoon. Anyone have experience with their keyboard? I kinda never heard of this (german?) company.

I'd say that the Corsair 780t would be perfect for entry level water cooling (corsair h100 etc...). So if I'd have to pick something from this list I'd say the Thermaltake v71. I'm more of a Fractal design define R5 fan, though.

I kind of worded in a wrong way, what I meant to say with it, but it doesn't have anything to do with power consumption AT ALL. Pretty much means how much watt it generates in heat under heavy load.In this case it's easier said as in 65watts = 65 degrees. Doesn't mean that if you have a CPU with 140 TDP that it generates 140 degrees in heat, though.

Every cpu has it's own max it could be run at. For example, the TDP on your athlon is 65watts, means it can dissipate 65 degrees without "real" problems. I'm more surprised it still works. If you OC it's safer to have your CPU stay under the 60 degrees, but preferably under the 50C with heavy load.

Pretty much burned. I don't see how you think 70 degrees celcius is stable under heavy load, though. Your AMD Athlon II X2 270 shouldn't go higher than 65 degrees, and you pretty much ran it on 70 on a daily basis.

How much did you OC? Cause the first thing I read was that you OC'd on a stock cooler, the absolute don't...

I'd go with the i5 4460. It has a better single core performance, but if you do other things than game and don't mind the yearly costs on the 8350 than go with that one. Yeah, I'm a scrub that considers yearly costs and performance value over the actual "which one is better". The annual energy costs is almost a $100 difference. $79,58 on the i5 and $159,61 on the 8350.

Flip the bios switch and hope you get some display. Small hint, though. Never and then I say NEVER throw the settings on the gpu to the max. R.I.P r9 290x

Did you buy the card completely new, or did you buy a used one? If you bought it from someone else, there's most likely a chance he messed up the card with flashing, and you can't really use it to game anymore.

Ctrl + alt + delete > task manager> ctrl/alt+ delete > end explorer. exe > start new task: "explorer.exe" and update your windows.

Well both are M versions ofcourse, but the link you provided gave me enough info that it will work.