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Budget (including currency): $1500 USD Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: World of Warcraft, League of Legends, Streaming Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): No peripherals needed, upgrading from a busted laptop with no spare parts. They're hoping to buy ASAP. Currently have 2x 1080p 60hz monitors, but want the most power within the budget for streaming and playing at the same time. I've been out of the pc building scene for a while, but I made this for starters: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/4pQYx6 Would love some feedback and suggestions. Maybe a B550 board?

Awesome, thank you! I guess it doesn't matter anyway because of what you said and because the DNS server relays it to Google. Good to know for other home networking stuff though!

Well right now I've just got a RaspberryPi with the Pi-Hole adblock/DNS server on it. It takes in requests, filters out requests to ads, and passes the rest to, in this case, google's DNS. I know the Pi has only a 100mbps network interface, but I could potentially upgrade that later on. I already have it set up and working through wi-fi. Not sure if that answers the question.

I've recently set up a small DNS server in my home network. I'm about to buy a network switch, but I was wondering how connections between PCs on the network and the server would be routed. My router would be connected at 100mbps to the new switch (It's an older router). The switch would be connected to some PCs and the DNS server, as shown below. Would connections between the PC and the DNS server have to go through the router? The DNS server is configured with a DHCP reservation, rather than a normal static IP, if that's an issue. A stupid and quick mockup I "drew" of the relevant parts of the home network: DNS Server PC |________________| | Switch | <------ 100mbps | Router/DHCP Server

The only other card I have is a GT 730. It only has DVI-D Dual Link, an HDMI (probably 1.x), and a VGA connectors. I wouldn't have any cables/adapters to even try to connect the monitor, and I doubt a card that low-end would be able to run 1440p 144hz.

Changed from the first DP port to the last DP port on the video card. Interestingly, it took a much longer time for the computer to start up (normal is around 5 seconds, this time took about a minute and a half). Both of the problems are still present (#2 and #3 in the original list). Right now I'm using a miniDP to DP cable that came with the monitor (miniDP into the monitor, DP into the video card). I've also tried using a normal DP to DP cable, and the problem still persists. I ultimately had the same setup as I do now with the previous monitor (same drivers and everything), and the two problems only existed on the RMA'd replacement. Problem #1 existed on both at first, though. I've also had dead pixels on both monitors, which brings up quality control concerns.

Sure. Doing this now.

I've reinstalled and updated my GPU drivers. Actually, when I did this, my monitor defaulted back to 60hz again (restarting fixed this back to 144hz). I use an Nvidia card, so I'm not using any AMD drivers. The monitor is FreeSync though. Maybe I need to disable something for this to work? I was playing around with the monitor settings, but didn't see anything like that. EDIT: If you were talking about monitor drivers, I don't even have those installed. I couldn't find a version that explicitly was compatible with Windows 10. There is a Windows 8.1 driver on Asus's website, but I wasn't sure of what effects that could have on my system.

This is a confusing one, so please respond if something isn't clear. I got a new monitor several weeks ago (this one). With this as my primary, I have a three-monitor setup. I've already RMA'd it once, but both the original and the RMA replacement have had some very annoying problems for a $550 monitor. Among those that I've had are: Not Booting to Windows on First Power On - While this problem is not currently present (it seems to have fixed itself), it was present at some point with both the original and replacement monitor. When I first powered on my PC, the bios would show the splash screen, but after that screen left, it would glitch out and wouldn't load into Windows. If I were to shut it down at this point and immediately power it on again, it would work. Restarts would always work on the first try. Display Not Immediately Recognized - You know how Windows turns off the displays after a certain amount of time to save power? If I were to wait around 60 seconds after this occurs and re-wake the computer, it would not recognize the primary display immediately, the screens would appear to "glitch out" (for lack of a better term; I can include a video of it if needed), and all windows that were open on the primary display are transferred to a secondary display. Eventually, the primary monitor is found, but the windows stay on the secondary display. The same sort of thing happens when starting up the computer. The login window initially appears on the secondary monitor, but after a second or so, it appears on the primary one. This was only present with the RMA'd monitor and was not present in the original monitor. Resets to 60hz - After playing a game on fullscreen, the 144hz monitor resets to 60hz (as shown in Nvidia control panel). This persists until either problem #2 occurs, or until I restart the computer. I was concerned about a driver issue, but I don't see any Windows 10 for it on the Asus website, and the disk it came with only has a digital copy of the manual and AMD GPU drivers (I have a GTX 1070). I'm unsure what to do. Would it be worth trying the Windows 8.1 driver listed on the Asus website (and would I need to backup my computer before trying it)? Is there anything else I should do?

Luckily, I don't see any discoloration or burning on the cables or on/near the PCIe connector.

Audio Message.amr Not sure if this audio format will work, but here goes. The first 10-20s is just it starting up the benchmark (using Unigine Heaven), the last 10s or so is it shutting off the benchmark. It pretty much sounds like rubbing styrofoam on a window.

I just tried recording it a couple times with my phone, but it can't even be heard on playback; sorry about that. I'll just try to describe it a bit: Idle - Completely silent. Under load - Constant, high-pitched, faint, buzzing. Coming off of load - Higher-pitched, non-constant buzzing. It's not crashing at all, and it doesn't bother me when using. It honestly was probably there for the 5-6 months I've been using it, but the case is below my desk and I haven't been hearing it. I was just a bit concerned over whether it could mean something bad.

Sure, I'll grab that.

If it's coil whine, I'm relieved. Although, comparing it to this video Linus did a long while back, it's more of a buzzing sound than that. Can it still be coil whine?

Hey all, I noticed some buzzing occurs near the PCIe power connector to my GTX 1070 when it is under load. When idle or under a light load, it's fine. When under a heavy load, even when the fans are not spinning, it buzzes. My build is as follows: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($26.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($126.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($99.99 @ B&H) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($93.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.78 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($399.99 @ B&H) Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($63.99 @ NCIX US) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.49 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $1279.88 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-28 13:31 EST-0500 Things I've Tried: Taking the GPU out, using the integrated GPU. No buzzing. Switching the PCIe power cable. Buzzing. Things I Haven't Tried Yet: Switching the GPU (The only other one I have is a GT 730, which doesn't have a dedicated PCIe connector). Switching the PSU (I don't have another one that I can use). I really would like to avoid RMAing if possible, since this is a machine I absolutely need for school. The noise isn't noticeable when the case is closed. I also haven't gotten quite the level of performance I expected out of a 1070 (my friends perform similarly with only a 970), and the card didn't come with any adapters, drivers, or much of anything.