tinpanalley

If the port scanner says it is closed then either the port forwarding is not configured correctly or something else with your setup is not allowing the configuration to run properly. I recommend following TPlink's guide on port forwarding that I linked to earlier, at least to check everything is configured as it should.
 
In simplistic terms: a firewall is like the walls of a castle, you live inside the castle and you have a gate to let traffic in and out of your castle. Imagine then the for every port there is a gate (some 65,535 gates) and at every gate/port a set of rules can be established to determine what can be let in or out. When we port forward, we are defining a rule when traffic approaches the wall from the outside (or inside) at gate 58050 (in this example) to allow traffic to be directed from outside the castle go straight to the machine hosting bubble/foobar (hence why we use the internal IP of that machine). If we didn't tell our firewall to allow the traffic through and where to direct it, the traffic would be denied entry. 
 
For the device running the bubble app outside the 'castle', that app needs to know what address to send its request to (the WAN address of your 'castle') and then your router needs to know where to direct that request inside your 'castle's' network.
 
This is a pretty simplistic take on firewalls that I hope helps some understanding of what is going on.
 
Lastly, YES absolutely there are other solutions to the issue you're having. Most notably VPN's such as wireguard, zerotier or tailscale. I personally am behind a CGNAT, so I utilize tailscale.

I have one of the DEPSTECH 3.9mm Super Slim borescopes for roughly $32.   https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Automotive-Inspection-Waterproof-Tablet-4-92FT/dp/B09Y8ZJN8P?th=1
 
It's wifi and 1920x1080 or 1600x1200
Their software is bare bones but functional, there is a noticeable lag between when you move the lens tip and when the image adjusts on your phone.  I have never tried it with a direct connection to a pc.  Has a fairly short range of focus, won't go shorter than about 1inch from your subject or further than about 3-4 inches.  Here is a still shot I took of a USB-C connector from about 2 inches away using only the built in lights just for easy comparisons sake. It's not great quality but it is passable for taking a quick look inside things vs taking them apart.

That better than the Comcast way. You pay for it forever. Oh and if you turn it in, better get a receipt because they will charge you full price for the fucker when they lose it before entering it as returned. 

The coax is not what handles the speed its the standard that the modem uses that dictates speed. Docsis 3.0 modems are not going to be provisioned for those speeds. Its likely your current box is a 3.0 and they want you to upgrade to a 3.1. Going forward coax based ISP's are going to be pushing 3.1 going forward until Docsis 4.0 become available. 
 
 
As I stated here: 
 

 
As you seen on the chart Docsis uses Channel Bonding to get faster speeds. 3.0 has many options. The speeds that is achievable is more or less up to the cable provider based on how clean the signal on the cable is. For example, my ISP will only do about 260 Mbps with a 8x4 modem. 
 
Docsis 3.1 added OFDMA channels to the mix and thats how they are doing Gigabit and faster. So if you want Gigabit then you need a 3.1 modem. 

I should also add to this thread. Even if your current modem is capable of the speeds you're ordering... say, if it's a DOCSIS 3.0 modem that can go "Up to 1.2Gbps" most ISPs won't even bother to provision tiers like Gigabit onto such hardware. Many DOCSIS ISPs follow a rule of not provisioning any more than 50% of a modem's capable speed onto a modem, and this is a network management practice. It helps to avoid heavy usage of your modem congesting the DOCSIS channels that your modem is locked onto for your neighbors, and it helps to guarantee the speed you're paying for. If a modem congests the node, this can also cause modems to start channel hopping to less congested channels, which causes a sharp reduction in speed and also service interruptions for others.
 
With DOCSIS 3.1, OFDM support is introduced which unlocks a wide amount of bandwidth. Depending on how clean the cable system is and how the cable provider has configured the system (modulation, bandwidth allocation), this can add up to a few extra Gigabits to the downstream capacity of a cable node. Gigabit service on many providers is provisioned at or slightly above 1Gbps, so in order to see the full tier, DOCSIS 3.1 is needed.

Haven't looked there. But I'll check.
I've never done anything myself to the BIOS, so unless it comes as default, it probably won't have anything. 

It's most likely more then what you need for just a fileserver for home use. Not sure what a seedbox is... But if that particular thing doesn't need video, you don't even have to bother with a GPU. Just set it up once, and let it just start up and sit there.

For simple stuff like that, that board should be able to do a fine enough job. If you already own it, I'd say give it a shot, though there are definitely more compact solutions, including some with a RPi if you want to go that route instead. 

“Shutdown “ has actually been an obfuscated sort of hybernate in windows for many years now.  To really really shut down you have to hold down some key or other when you do it.  If you don’t  It saves ram contents to drive.  So not a normal boot.
 
so it’s entirely possible that something that is only used on startup is getting corrupted and it only matters if one tries to start up with it which because of the behavior of windows is every time.   The workaround would be to hold that key (I think it’s [opt] but I’m not sure) when you shutdown so it starts from scratch like a restart.

This.
 
You'll have to tell us what you find in the TP-Link admin interface/app. You have it, so explore.

The Ryzen:
6800H is about the same in single thread performance,
6800H is a little bit faster multicore, 
Better power efficiency. (Intel likes just boosting to the moon past tdp target)
DDR5 SODIMMs if not soldered on, more expensive to upgrade
 
The Intel:
Ever so slightly faster single thread
Little bit slower multicore
More true cores (doesn't really matter much unless you have a workload that prefers true cores to logical cores)
DDR4 sodimms if not soldered on, less expensive to upgrade
 
 

Recently, I'd realized that I'd need a gaming capable laptop for when I go to Canada, and Thailand for extended stays. I was looking around and found that brand new sets were a fair bit pricier here in my neck of the woods. So, (being the penny pincher that I am), I decided on a used set, but it MUST come with at least 1 year of warranty. Found what I was looking for in the Lenovo Legion 5 Pro - AMD R7 5800H, 2x 8GB DDR4 3200MHz, RTX 3070, 2560x1600 165Hz), best of all, it still had (then) 23 months of Premium Care (I still have >20 months of Premium Care warranty left).
 
When I realized that the laptop was overheating even while surfing the net, let alone playing games which resulted in GPU >90C, CPU 102C. Called Lenovo, submitted a report based on their diagnostic tool, and a technician actually came over in a couple of days (would have come the very next day, but I was to be out the entire day). Sure enough, as I'd suspected, the fans were choked with dust and instead of simply cleaning the fans, the technician replaced the entire cooling assembly with a new one! Prolly because the fans were somehow damaged from being choked so long, but how's that for service! Now, when I game, CPU hits mid 80's, while GPU hits high 70's, vast improvement in temps I must say.
 
Ofc, such level of service varies from country to country, but I must say, I was most impressed with Lenovo's commitment to great after sales service. Sometimes, we get too caught up looking into specs and such that we forget the after sale service part, and Lenovo has definitely won me over...

Likewise. 
This Lenovo though looks better and better the more I think about it. I can always upgrade the RAM to 16GB and SSDs are easy to replace. Anything else you would consider in the price range? Even a little above?

Ok, fine I was just saying it does show that the 12500 is better. I like Lenovo I can trust the name but I'd be willing to look at other brands if they could be recommended.
Somebody recommended this GIGABYTE G5 GD to me. I don't think I could buy a Gigabyte laptop. My last mobo was Gigabyte, but a laptop? Maybe in a few years if they prove themselves as laptop manufacturers.

I have done dozens of laptops from old to not quite so old. For most of them I get the owner to buy an SSD (usually 250GB) and I install Linux Mint on it. I then copy across via a USB - SATA cable, all their files and folders. They can then put the Windows disk on the shelf as a backup if ever needed.
 
The SSD decreases the boot time, usually from 2 - 8 minutes boot with Windows to about 25 - 40 seconds with Linux on the SSD.
 
What is the laptop, make, model, date?

I'm with you on that one. At this point, I just need enough ports(full size HDMI, RJ45, plenty of USB type A, and 3.5mm audio) with the ability to upgrade internal storage and RAM.
 
Optical drive would be really nice, but almost no laptops these days are shipping with one.

Find one that has the specs you want, and if you want to have it last a long time, I'd recommend a Thinkpad, Pavilion, or XPS. Steer clear from Acer, once you are out of warranty you are screwed.

I feel like the top 5(in no particular order) are HP, Dell, Lenovo, Asus, and Apple.
 
But yeah, for the most part, if you don't need macOS for something, then just pick whatever meets your various needs. I'm personally really picky when it comes to laptops, so I'll likely only be buying ThinkPads from now on if I'm buying a Windows laptop at all.

My husband and I always move our computers ourselves. Absolutely zero trust in moving companies, and this last time our "professional" movers were very flaky about when our belongings would be delivered. I had the movers take my monitors (thinking our belongings would arrive just after we did) and just took the tower for my setup, and I was left without a desktop for a month. As for packing/protection, we are pretty lazy and just packed them fully assembled into the back of one of our vehicles with a bunch of other stuff to keep them secure. Nothing broke, thankfully.

I've delivered many PCs to friends and family over the years and never had a problem.

My method has typically been to just use old pillows & towels to create a secure cushion that the PC rests on, allowing for the board to face upwards so that the weight of each component is safely dispersed.

If you are traveling a very long distance, I would consider opening the case and filling the empty space with soft materials to prevent scratches or too much movement.
 
 

Unless it's really unavoidable, my PC will be moved by me, and me only.
Or at least the most crucial parts of it (GPU, PSU, Storage Drive)

I would have to say that all of these choices should do  the trick for you, but our AK620 is currently the best bang for your buck cooler that actually looks good. (my opinion might be bias here. hahah)

DeepCool AK400 from Amazon should be fine at $45 canadian
 
https://www.amazon.ca/DeepCool-Performance-Cooler-Dynamic-Bearing/dp/B09PCWK7SP/

Arctic manufactured 600mm extension cables for the Bionix P120 ARGB fans & sent them to me once they were ready (the original extension cables were too short & they acknowledged that).
 
I dare say they’ll have extension cables for the more mainstream/popular P12 PST series of fans in future, if they don’t already. Might pay to contact them on Social Media.

@tinpanalleyDo not get 200mm fans (any, even the Noctua which is the best in its class). They are inferior to 120/140mm fans in this situaton.
 
2 x 120mm in the front as intake , 1 x 120mm at the back  as exhaust, and 1 whatever on the top as exhaust will work best.
 
As for which fans I second the option of 3-4x Arctic P12 PWM PST fans (PST means they come with integrated splitter so u can daisy chain them to the motherboard). You might need some more splitters, an extender, or a fan hub like mentioned depending on if the cables can reach.
 
A cheap ~10 eur fan hub would probably be the easiest/safest option, with which u can run all fans through the hub, and then the hub is connected to the main CPU fan header on the motherboard, and u can set a nice ~1200-1250RPM speed and voila, perfection.