tinpanalley

THey weren't $80 when they came out. They were like $40. They're extraordinarily well built. Better even than some actual desktop keyboards.

I have this amazing little mobile keyboard which I bought when I lived in France so it's physically an AZERTY keyboard. But it's been a long time since we lived there and that ability my brain had to go back and forth between AZERTY and QWERTY is no longer as flexed as it once was. I'd like to make it permanently a QWERTY keyboard but there are physical differences. Can anyone think of any way to turn it into a QWERTY keyboard despite some of its buttons not all lining up perfectly? Just keymapping isn't enough.

I put on a new cable that happened to be 2.0 (...it's just that it's 25ft long and quite thick, we used to need it in a different apartment) and there's no flickering whatsoever now. Thank you for your help. Tiny ms bit of delay on the mouse but nothing major. But I'm now curious... The cable in question that wasnt working was a High Speed, so that's 1.4. The new TV takes HDMI spec 2.0. The GPU port on the PC says it supports 4K@60Hz as specified in HDMI 2.0b. So is it correct to assume I didn't have problems with the last TV because its ports were HDMI 1.4 like the cable?

How do I know if I'm using the right HDMI cable? It's been a while since I have changed any of them and it wasn't really an issue the last time I hooked things up to a TV. Do I check the version of the ports on the TV and then buy a cable that matches? Does it matter what the ports are on my GPU?

I've always had an HDMI cable running to my TV from my desktop for gaming and for some PC work. But we just got a new TV and switching to the TV from the PC (via an HDMI splitter) is causing the image from the PC to flicker. What causes this typically and what settings can I check on the TV and PC to stop it from happening? Thanks for any help!

Firstly... I need to thank you for your thorough explanation and castle analogy. That really helped me get my head around how this whole system works. In truth, I need to really spend time understanding Windows networking more. I would love to have more control over my use of my home network, my internet settings, and more and I am so good with understanding other computer elements but I'm severely lacking in networking comprehension. When internet, home network, related issues come up I'm always at a loss. I'd love to understand DNS more, how to really utilise every part of my home network, the connection settings of my Rpi Kodi install, etc and other examples so that I know exactly what home networking can do. Nevertheless, despite still wishing I could understand all the different settings in the router options, your analogy and your help went a long way towards giving me a relatable way to approach all this. So thank you for that. Understanding things better after your post, I went through the few elements that were controlling my ability to connect. Namely: the router options via the tplink app, the BubbleUPnP setup which is pretty automated and self explanatory, and the Windows Firewall settings. And you wouldn't believe what finally worked. In the Server Properties for the Inbound rule created for BubbleUPnP, you can choose which profile to apply the rule to. The only option selected was Private. I also checked Default and Public, and instantly the BubbleUPnP server page connectivity test worked. I'm not sure I get entirely why but what I gather is that only the Private profile was permitting access and that isn't the profile Bubble uses. Is that it or is it more complicated than that?

I don't know that because I hadn't looked at the firewall rule before to know exactly what it was doing. Port scanner says 58050 is closed. I don't understand at all why this has worked for years and now it's completely not doable. I also dont get what I'm physically doing. I'm opening up ports on my Internal IP? Then what is the Public IP for? How do I open those ports? What other program can I use to get the same access to my home desktop for music?

Irrelevant. Ignore it.

Yes, same machine. Win 10. Should be said, before this modem/router from my ISP I was on one of their "legacy" technicolor modems, but using the same tplink Deco mesh router. And when I would install the softwarefor BubbleUPnP, everything worked fine. Never needed to do a thing other than point the app at the program on my desktop.

My bad, i misspoke. And yes, the WAN from the router is the same as whatismyip.

Spoke to them today. They said, if we're putting the modem/router in Bridge mode they aren't doing anything to it at all other than handing off all control to our router. They said they dont block ports, but naturally they also can't offer help configuring our router.

Yes. whatismyip is the same as what Bubble calls my "Public IP address"

Where do I get confirmation of that public ip address. Where can I find it to see if Bubble has it right?

For internal I was using my 192.168... Ports, the 58050 port, I was going to do asecond rule for 58051. But Bubble still says,

My router asks for this in the port forwarding...

No, I'm fairly certain it's in the private range. I see 173.178...

For what it's worth this is in Canada with Videotron's Helix 2 modem/router. I have the Helix set up in Bridge mode to give all routing to my tplink Deco M4 mesh network. I'm trying to run a program/app called BubbleUPnP which essentially gives me secure access from outside my home to our home music and video server (Foobar). I have set my router to open the appropriate ports but BubbleUPnP (and its dev) insists that if the ports are open, and Windows has those ports open on the firewall, that I should be getting access to my server. But something is stil blocking my access. Can ANYone help me figure out what could be wrong? Things I can try? Questions I can answer to help me solve the problem? (One tiny request: can we please not clog this with the comments about how this kind of access to my computer from outside leaves me exposed. Let's just park that debate to the side.) Thank you!

Is it not possible to have drafts sync between Gmail and the Outlook software on my desktop? I do a lot of picking up email composing on the go and when back at home and have to have a mobile client that lets me do that. I do have Outlook on my mobile phone, but it's not great and I'd like ot give Gmail a go.

So I actually wrote to Hisense Canada last night and received a surprisingly quick response. They said neither is VA, they're both IPS, and only the U68K is miniLED but they are both ULED.

I’m looking at the U6KR at Costco ($511) and the U68K on Amazon ($479). I just want to confirm… The U6KR has VA and is QLED and the U68K is IPS but is miniLED. Is that correct? If so, with contrast ratio and black levels being the two only important specs to me, I’m better off with the VA panel on the U6KR even if it’s not miniLED, correct?

Looking for help for a new TV. We’ve got rather atypical needs. What we have right now is this. It has been the best TV we’ve ever had. No, I'm not joking. Why are our needs different than most? We need the following: We need the DVD and BluRay classic films that we watch often to look the way they’re mastered. Good contrast ratio and blacks are of utmost importance even over viewing angles and screen glare. (The contrast ratio and black levels of our current Vizio are what make it among the two best TVs we ever had. The other was a Samsung HD CRT we had before) The only other thing we watch is sports and a few English TV shows (relevance being no need for high frame rate, blur controlling visuals) We don’t consume anything that is any higher than 2K. HDR is of absolutely no use to us. We won’t ever use it. We don’t in any way use our television for “smart home” features or for streaming services so no on board software is necessary. If and when we do connect to an online service, we access it via our computer that we patch in to our TV because of the next point… We often output our desktop to our TV for gaming, online use (our desktop which runs our home a/v network and TV are in the same room). So, if it could have a higher refresh rate for that HDMI input that would be nice because our GPU can handle pretty high refresh rates. We don’t like software enhanced filters and antialiasing. We just want to project what the source material is. We do need component inputs for our older game consoles but I suppose I can find some kind of adapter if that’s no longer possible to have. Other than that, the Vizio is 43 inches and we’ve since moved to a place where our living room can handle going up to 55 so 55 would be ideal, but 50 is fine if the screen is going to be significantly better. The Vizio was about $399. Can we get something for a similar price or is it necessary now even with our low needs to spend more? If possible, what would also be helpful would be to understand what specs are particularly important to us in tvs made today. Thanks!

I've gone with this Depstech with its own screen. Primarily because by not opting for a dual camera option with a side camera, this one is thinner by 2mm but also because of the ap issue that scares me a bit. Already the app dev being some nondescript chineses company means at some point it will stop being developed and supported so it's just begging to be left behind the moment the next Android version comes out and they fail to pay to be certify their software and you're left with a device that can't do anything on its own. I feel like well taken care of, the tech of the individual screen is more likely to last longer well taken care of.

Trying to pick one of these up for DIY projects. Anyone have any knowledge of whether the WiFi models that display on your phone or tablet are better than the models that come with a screen of their own? 1080p screens are pretty much good quality now regardless of who makes them so I can see the advantage of the ones that come with their own screen and not messing with some app on your phone that could disappear one day or stop being developed. But, the app that can be downloaded to your tablet or phone and connected via its own WiFi network means you can use whatever size screen you want. Is either one technically better optically or should I just be looking at display specs and features?

Hey, thanks so much, really learned a lot! From both of you. I guess then I ned to figure out if buying this thing used is ok. There are SO many people selling them on Marketplace. If you don't know the market up here, Videotron is a media company/ISP/mobile provider available only in the province of Quebec though it can be used all across North America. But the way this Helix 2 works is that they sell it by doing it over 2 years of installments at the end of which it's yours to keep. Their feeling is that people hate renting equipment and then they don't need to worry about what to do in 2-3 years when a new modem-router comes out and people return them all. Shitty practice to dump the waste on customers, but there you have it. Regardless of how you feel about it, people seem ok with it and then they all just sell them when they move. This also has a lot to do with how rental properties and even modern condos work here. Inreasingly, rental properties are offering WiFi for an entire building. So people are in one apartment, they sign up to Videotron here in Montreal because it's the best service for a high mbps ISP on most of the island and then they move either to a place they buy or to a 6 or 3 apartment building that shares the internet. That would drive me nuts, but younger people don't seem to care. And that's when they go and sell these Helix 2 modem-routers. Just gotta figure out which one looks reasonably in good shape on marketplace.