ryanmmax

Well if you need a mesh network because your house is large then immediately.  I am purchasing the TM-AC1900 for $50 with the expectation of of needing at least 2.  Google mesh on the other hand is $100 per puck. 
 
https://slickdeals.net/f/11119759-asus-tm-ac1900-dual-band-gigabit-router-refurbished-48-free-s-h
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-system-set-replacement/dp/B01MAW2294
 
The real question is, do the mesh systems like google or Orbi have the same power, range, throughput, ect as dedicated routers.  Maybe its their simple design but they just don't look as powerful as a router with external antenna.  If I am right then you could have a bigger better mesh by connecting several highish end routers then by buying a more expensive mesh system.  
 
 
SIDE NOTE- Who does these companies graphics? if your using a routers wifi to act as the back bone and extend the range, then your extender needs to be in range of your base!  This would suggest that wifi based extensions only increase coverage area by  ~30% an even then your connection between them is at its limit.   So take the time and run the Ethernet backbone!

Well if you need a mesh network because your house is large then immediately.  I am purchasing the TM-AC1900 for $50 with the expectation of of needing at least 2.  Google mesh on the other hand is $100 per puck. 
 
https://slickdeals.net/f/11119759-asus-tm-ac1900-dual-band-gigabit-router-refurbished-48-free-s-h
https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-system-set-replacement/dp/B01MAW2294
 
The real question is, do the mesh systems like google or Orbi have the same power, range, throughput, ect as dedicated routers.  Maybe its their simple design but they just don't look as powerful as a router with external antenna.  If I am right then you could have a bigger better mesh by connecting several highish end routers then by buying a more expensive mesh system.  
 
 
SIDE NOTE- Who does these companies graphics? if your using a routers wifi to act as the back bone and extend the range, then your extender needs to be in range of your base!  This would suggest that wifi based extensions only increase coverage area by  ~30% an even then your connection between them is at its limit.   So take the time and run the Ethernet backbone!

Amp?  If you don't have one the Philips Fidelio x2 are supposed to be top notch...  if you do the HD650... 

The thought was that the bottom rad would be an intake and the top an exhaust...  The top fan filter was/is more for looks/symitry.

Water cooling is a novelty do it for love not for practicality.
 
that said I have a DR3 and my 4790k is not thermally limited.  So unless you win the lotto Aircooling will give you the same OC...

Spend the money on the monitor, they last a lot longer then any CPU/GPU.  Even if you have to use scaling and send 1080 to a 1440....  In a year or two you'll be able to drive it for cheap.

Thanks goes to Slickdeals...  
 
http://slickdeals.net/f/8819815-27-dell-s2716dg-144hz-2560x1440-wqhd-tn-panel-hdmi-led-gaming-monitor-with-g-sync-for-479-99-free-shipping-newegg-com
 
My wallets best/worst friend!

He was speeking with respect to opening the freezer...  if you open the freezer the warm air from outside comes in and instantly raises effective ambient temp above pc temp...  if you dont open the freezer you are fine...

CPU's are a "better investment" they really havent changed much in the past several years, and based on intels recent press reports improving performance doesn't seem to be a priority.  So buy a good CPU and it will last you.
 
GPU's are not a great investment.  Every year they seem to get bigger and better, and nothing short of a 980Ti will play next years game at full res...  So why go heavy on something that will be out dated in 3 months?
 
Looking back...  in 2011 the 2600K and the Radeon HD 6990 were the flagship products.    The 980Ti is something like 4-5 times as fast and the 6700k is like 1.5 times as fast....    I would be rocking a 2600k if I had one, not so sure about a HD 6990

When your mouse is 6+ years old and every time you see a mouse review you think "nope, not yet"....   G9x since 2009.

doesnt even need a "decent" power rating... it can only power 1 card.  So what a crap 300w powersupply, some sort of pci to USB3.1 controller and some software??  Looks like cost to be <$50

Want to argue...  Cant stop!!! Aahahha....
 
"regardless of price"  Wow I if you live in a world regardless of price why are you on LTT?
 
Your choice
 $700 Water cooling
 $375 5820K
 $650 SLI 970
Alternative #1 Productivity
$1000 5960x
$650  SLI 970
Alternative #2 Gaming
 $375 5820x
 $1400 SLI 980Ti
 
Everything has to do with price...  the fact is that unless you have the BEST CPU and the BEST GPU's then your better off putting the money towards an upgrade.   And if your work load wouldn't benefit from having 2-4 extra threads/cores, then it wont benefit from 5% more OC...
 
 
 

at 350 your better off getting a prebuilt that comes with windows
http://slickdeals.net/f/8519359-dell-inspiron-3000-desktop-i5-4460-4gb-ddr3-500gb-hdd-win-10-pro-349-free-shipping
 
Here is the same build for $350 on part picker that DOES NOT have windows...
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/wGspqs

This...
 
Ask yourself why your wanting to water cool.
 
Performance- then get a noctua d14 or d15, they will match most decent->good AIO with a fraction the noise.  
Aesthetics- Im partial to the dark rock 3 or pro 3...  but Cryorg makes some good looking coolers too. 
Noise-A good air-cooler will beat mos AIO...  you need a good pump to see the silence benefits and not many AIO would fit that.
Cost-  Air coolers win again!
Cool factor-  Yes its noval and people may remember that you water cooled, but unless they are enthusiasts themselves they will not appreciate it.
Maintenance- Air-cooler set and forget VS AIO always wondering if it will leak, and more points of failure
Repair- Fan on Aircooler breaks get a new fan.....  Pump on AIO breaks get new AIO
 
Unless your looking at a dual 140mm rad AIO I wouldnt go AIO

This...
 
Ask yourself why your wanting to water cool.
 
Performance- then get a noctua d14 or d15, they will match most decent->good AIO with a fraction the noise.  
Aesthetics- Im partial to the dark rock 3 or pro 3...  but Cryorg makes some good looking coolers too. 
Noise-A good air-cooler will beat mos AIO...  you need a good pump to see the silence benefits and not many AIO would fit that.
Cost-  Air coolers win again!
Cool factor-  Yes its noval and people may remember that you water cooled, but unless they are enthusiasts themselves they will not appreciate it.
Maintenance- Air-cooler set and forget VS AIO always wondering if it will leak, and more points of failure
Repair- Fan on Aircooler breaks get a new fan.....  Pump on AIO breaks get new AIO
 
Unless your looking at a dual 140mm rad AIO I wouldnt go AIO

You mean like the glossy plastic on my monitor? nothing a can of mat clack spray paint couldn't fix! 
 
Here you go... Mat black and $20 with some spiffy curves
http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Headphones-Stand-Matte-Black/dp/B009X6G646/ref=sr_1_26?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1456510984&sr=1-26&keywords=headphone+stand
 
Personally I like the simple shape Function before Form.

If you want it today
 
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/cmpbFT
 
Will fit your black and blue theme.... 

Gah. Linus beat me to it by like.. a year...
 
I agree that curved TVs are silly for many reasons, but there are a couple problems with this post:
1) Curved monitors generally come with a subtle curve, and only in the 21:9 variety where the distance from the center to the edge is much greater than a 16:9.
2) You've made the assumption that all (or most) of a computer monitor experience is watching something shot on a camera, which in my case (and likely almost everyone elses case) is the opposite. When I move icons around on my desktop, or move text from one side of the screen to the other, it doesn't change based on its location on the screen. Another big one is gaming, where the image is rendered and not shot by a camera. I would say that a good 90% of what I look at on my screen was not shot by a camera, and when it is, it is normally 16:9 content that is not really affected by the subtle curve.

Given: 12cents/kWh, 700 Watts, 8 hours/day... your looking at $250/year 
Being 2,000 Watts of cooling does not mean it draws 2,000 Watts of power.  It is a heat exchange, in this case while its running it draws ~700W which is half that of a hair dryer, and about the same as an enthusiast PC.  In addition a thermostat would mean it would only run when necessary not continuous. 
Most Home circuits are 20 Amp which is ~2400 Watts...  700W Linus PC + 300W NAS + 700 Wife PC + 700 AC Unit = 2400 W ...   So yes even under full load a single circuit could handle the described loading even if everything was being stress tested!   That being said tying the AC unit into the adjacent room circuit so its not loading the same BKR is Child Play.
Cost???   Sure its not free, $250 for the unit, and then some operating cost equivalent to having another PC in the house.  And the homes AC will have to cool the room that this DUMPS heat into...
This is LTT...  Pink Car, Custom Rack mount PC, Whole Room water cooling.... 

I would move both to the front AND I would buy 1 or 2 more.  Your 980Ti needs some fresh air too.  
 
Personally I have 2 x 140mm intake and 1 x 120mm rear exhaust.  I have also removed the extra 3 PCI slot covers from the case below my GPU to help exhaust hot air.

Dont water cool for performance, water cool for a hobby.  Spending water cooling $$$ on a 980ti and youll get better performance at a fraction of the hassle.
 

Given: 12cents/kWh, 700 Watts, 8 hours/day... your looking at $250/year 
Being 2,000 Watts of cooling does not mean it draws 2,000 Watts of power.  It is a heat exchange, in this case while its running it draws ~700W which is half that of a hair dryer, and about the same as an enthusiast PC.  In addition a thermostat would mean it would only run when necessary not continuous. 
Most Home circuits are 20 Amp which is ~2400 Watts...  700W Linus PC + 300W NAS + 700 Wife PC + 700 AC Unit = 2400 W ...   So yes even under full load a single circuit could handle the described loading even if everything was being stress tested!   That being said tying the AC unit into the adjacent room circuit so its not loading the same BKR is Child Play.
Cost???   Sure its not free, $250 for the unit, and then some operating cost equivalent to having another PC in the house.  And the homes AC will have to cool the room that this DUMPS heat into...
This is LTT...  Pink Car, Custom Rack mount PC, Whole Room water cooling.... 

I can find anywhere to put down video Ideas/suggestions/requests so hopefully in "General Discussions" will be OK... So here is the Idea for his Next Personal Rig update video!
 
Personal Rig Idea!
Show the final installation in the desired closet rack mount, with all the wall pass through and such to make it work This needs to be done to wrap up the basic Personal rig update series Do the LTT thing and go over the TOP!! and install a 8,000 BTU Air Conditioner in the wall to drop the ambient temp of the closet! 8,000 BTU is ~2350 Watts of cooling more then enough to cool his computer, his wife computer, and his NAS! By making ambient temperature in the Closet colder he wont have to worry about condensation  Ambient temps of like 35F would be awesome.  
Also this could work as a Follow up to "PC Build in a Fridge - Does it Work??",  With temps in the closet of 35F he could then effectively have his computer in a refrigerator 
 
AND if that is not enough, he now has a Walk in Refrigerator in his home!!

Specifically you use the properties of log in this case Log(B^X)=X*Log('B') 
 
2=2^((1970-x)/2)
log(2)=log(2^((1970-x)/2))=(1970-x)/2*log(2)
 
1=(1970-x)/2
2=1970-x
1968=x
 
 
*Edit*  they beat me to it.... Well at least we all got the same answer....

Specifically you use the properties of log in this case Log(B^X)=X*Log('B') 
 
2=2^((1970-x)/2)
log(2)=log(2^((1970-x)/2))=(1970-x)/2*log(2)
 
1=(1970-x)/2
2=1970-x
1968=x
 
 
*Edit*  they beat me to it.... Well at least we all got the same answer....