richyman

See section 0 here: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/how-to-connect-to-a-120-hz-display.3268285/

Z390 Aorus Master for well rounded and good price perf ration. or if you really want to OC, Z390 Aorus Extreme or if you are planning on LN2, EVGA Z390 Dark.

FML

Im almost sure it was the cpu. I have a deepcool liquid cooler, this was my 1st liquid cooler ever. Installing it was new but I managed to do it without any problems. However, I just removed it, realized there wasnt enough thermal paste (probably the reason it was heating while gaming), reapplied thermal paste and put the liquid cooler back on. But now I feel it is not making contact since Im getting 90+ degrees just on chrome :/. I already tried taking it off and placing it again twice (even reapplied thermal paste one more time after removing the other just cause I had nothing to lose) but it still wont cool :(.

A good test would be to record stuff like CPU and GPU usage, temp, clockrates in something like MSI afterburner. In the settings you can enable these parameters to measure, say every 100ms. Make sure its set to save logs to a file. Once you enable the log, go play some games until it crashes. Upon rebooting, you can then go to that saved log file, and open it. It can be useful to see exactly what your system was doing at the time of the crash, for example, a sudden spike in CPU temperature. 
 
Say its a temp issue, you may see CPU temp spike and then the system locks up. Maybe its a PSU issue, if you were to see GPU and CPU usage sharply rise for a bit out of the norm while playing the game, this would send a sudden higher load to your PSU, which then might cause the freezing and crashing.

Im starting to think it is a CPU temp issue, for some reason it doesnt exceed 90*C on AI  SUITE software, but it does on CAM, CAM detects the temp reaching a max. of 100*C and therefore the load goes to 95% aswell. Im going to bed now and Ill open it up tomorrow and let you know. Thanks for the advice.

honestly, ur better off investing that $100 into a really comfy chair or anything that will actually improve your life

They're the same because engines aren't using more than four cores. Wait two or so years and we should start seeing the first wave of engines using five or more cores. 

there are only 3 coffeelake overclockable CPU. 8350k 8600k and 8700k. if you are okay with 4core CPU then go for i3 otherwise i7 is the only choice. gaming performance wise coffeelake is better than ryzen so really no similar CPU.

Just get an i7 honestly

you used the wrong pcpartpicker link, you have to use the link on the top left-hand side of the page. the 1080ti would work amazingly on that monitor if you're going for super high refresh rate/fps. But you might also want to consider getting something higher resolution since that card is pretty over powered for 1080p. 

It's a good monitor, although you can probably push 3440x1440 at > 100hz with the GTX 1080ti so there's that. But with G-sync you're looking at a pretty penny for a monitor. 
 
I think you'll be happy with your choice. 

I understand you well enough, well your build as is already should give you a blasting awesome experience, I do really recommend the Founders Edition GTX 1080 Ti by EVGA since it is by far the best warranty, the blower style cooler seems important to me if you'll go with this case because of how tight every thing will be, a single fan small radiator is not going to let you overclock the i5 much(if at all, would recommend just setting all core turbo to max) specially if get an open air cooler for the GPU since you'll be generating lots of heat and trapping it inside the case.
 
The bonus is that the FE card's cheaper too, it'll be available at black friday here:
https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-6390-RX

Some people will say 'get a blower card' but imho that's BS. However, I'd go with something smaller, like a Evga FTW or SC. 

Amp extreme is not a good GPU, its vrm cooling is terrible. Get asus strix, evga ftw, hybrid, or sc2

Not worth spending more on slower ram that has slightly tighter timings. If you really wanted to, you could down clock the cheaper kit and potentially get cas14 if you wanted or tighten to cas15 on stock speed.

As others have said, Use the cheaper one.
Really, the CAS-to-frequency ratio is the same - so unless you plan to overclock, the speeds shouldn't matter much.
 
I say that, but generally you'd be able to more finely tune a CPU that has a higher frequency/CAS; for each increment is slightly less percentage-wise.

The cheaper one.

Go with the faster RAM. The difference is negligible but it's cheaper.

Hmm I'd not go atx but itx, like an ASrock b350 mobo but else, sure go with micro-atx

all three used the i7 7700K
 
One Z270 board
One B250 board
and one Z170 board because of the bent pins on the new Z270 ITX board
 
GTX 1080Tis and one GTX 1080
 
I see EVGA PSUs
 
GSkill Trident Z RGB RAM
 
Fairly common 850 Evo SSD and the Sandisk 480GB SSD
 
NZXT Manta ITX casing, H440 forget the other model number

Do we have full parts lists for the 3 contestants?

Did you try reinstalling your video drivers? There's a chance it could be HDCP related.
 
If not maybe try a system file check to make sure none of your codecs are broken.

Well, reseating the card is something you should do. It should just be under a door. 

Everyone's experience is going to be different honestly. Get rid of the programs that came pre-bundled with the machine that you don't want or will never use and then go with what you want and will enhance your experience with the machine.