Matt420740

And most of those reasons and the people experiencing them seem to be linked to AMD cards.  -   http://battlelog.battlefield.com/bf3/forum/threadview/2955065217445235763/2/
 
 
Its just an issue between BF3 and AMDs cards.  Not sure what the issue is, but its not likely to be fixed at this point as old as BF3 is.   I certainly wouldn't RMA the card, as any replacement from AMD will probably do the same.  Unless you play BF3 religiously, I'd probably just deal with it, as the only way to fix it seems to be to switch to team green.

LOL.
 
On a side note, rest assured Malwarebytes is the best thing since sliced bread, so you aren't wasting any time in downloading it, even if it doesn't solve the issue.

Do a hard reset of the printer.  Unplug the power connector from the back of the printer while the printer is on, wait 60 seconds and plug it back up. 
 
Make sure to unplug the cable from the rear of the printer and not from the wall, as residual power in the DC brick can keep it from a full reset.

What?  No.  Just run Malwarebytes man  -  https://www.malwarebytes.org/

That would be your best option.  Or better yet just save the money you'd be paying them and buy a $20 soldering iron, and a few 1W LEDs. 

Malwarebytes will find just about anything.

Run Malwarebytes again, except this time click the scan tab at the top, then "custom scan" check all boxes under "Custom Scanning Options" on the left.   Now in the center section expand C: and navigate to your browsers folders,  check the boxes for your browser installations (all of your browsers) then run the scan.
 
The third party software used to re-direct to Techbrowser is usually an unwanted browser add-on or extension.

Thanks for the reply, i tried adwcleaner, it found registry keys for pups as well as bitlord (my torrent client). I removed all the ones i didnt know but it didnt actually detect anything to do with this PuP. I will get the extention. Im currently running scans from spybot S&D, Avast, Mailwarebytes, and Microsoft security essentials. I really hope it finds it but it is looking unlikely. Im not sure how to go about it but i will not stop fighting thats for sure. What ive read about it is very worrying on its intentions and i dont want my information leaked so i am going to fight this untill the point i have to format

Running Avast and AVG are gonna do about as much good as if he stood on his head for half an hour.  The Microsoft Security Essentials included with Windows works better than either of those.
 
OP needs Malwarebytes.  You may need to download the Chameleon version of malwarebytes if the malicious program is interfering with the regular version - https://www.malwarebytes.org/chameleon/

If your D: drive truly is faulty, that could be causing the boot loop.  Disconnect the drive entirely and see if it will boot then.  If still not, try resetting CMOS.

Any luck since your post? I have the identical board and ram as you with the identical issue. I have a feeling this is a chipset or bios issue. Im currently on F4 bios version. I already tried what you did to no avail. I tried other ram sets and anything that involved using 3 or 4 ram modules created error 55. I sent a ticket to gigabyte, hopefully they have a fix as i dont know if an rma replacement will solve the issue.

Try disconnecting the HDD all together and see if it will boot from the SSD then.  If it still won't, the cloning process didn't get something right with the boot files.  What software did you use?

After catching up on your thread I would agree with @Matt420740 that your Mobo is most likely dead.

Not enough information. 
 
Does it do it with the other USB ports? 
 
Does it do it with other USB charger cables such as one for a phone, or only the turtle beach cable?

In Malwarebytes, choose the scan tab at the top, then custom scan, then in the part where you can pick specific locations to scan, expand the C: drive, then check the box for the "Users" folder.  Then expand program files and check the boxes for your browser installations.  Run the scan again and see if you find anything.

You did it wrong.  You need to go into device manager, find the wireless adapter, right click, select "update driver software"  then "browse my computer for driver software" then you need to point it to the location of the driver file you put onto the SSD.  It will then install that driver.  

Deep yes, but important to understand when working with electronics, including audio equipment
 
Take note of the "Why are ohms important" section in the first link.
 
http://www.prestonelectronics.com/audio/Impedance.htm 
 
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_impedance

You'll probably have to go through an RMA process to return it, depending on where you bought it from.  The seller will just replace it.  If you send it back to the manufacturer, they will test it to determine if its actually faulty.  Which will probably be a longer affair.  I'd try to RMA to place of purchase if possible.

if it was over 80 you would have gotten a 3rd degree burn and your skin would swell and fall off
 
this is why you need to use a thermometer to determine temperature, not "oh i touched it for 1.5 seconds and it was hot" scale

That they do, but you'd be suprised how many people out there have no idea how to properly manage their storage.  After all we are talking about someone who couldn't figure out why why a 60gb game was taking up half a 120gb drive.........

Use cntrl + alt + T  to start terminal, and type in sudo fdisk –1 then press enter.
 
Do you see the drive there?

Just use Ubuntu.  Its easy to make a bootable USB of that OS, and you'll get access to your drives.  And even better it comes out of the box with the ability to clone your drives, no additional software needed.
 
Ubuntu  -  http://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop
 
How to properly format the bootable USB - http://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop/create-a-usb-stick-on-windows
 
How to clone in Ubuntu - http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/19141/clone-a-hard-drive-using-an-ubuntu-live-cd/

I agree, uninstall with DDU and then re-install latest drivers from NVIDIA website   
 
DDU-http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html
 
 
Latest Driver-http://www.geforce.com/drivers/results/96079

The shorter ones are the correct ones.  That should get you fixed up.

Sata power is the type of cable running from your PSU to the SSD.