UberFefa

A couple of things:
1. What about other materials such as silver, nickle, acetal(?) etc. What works together? What do I avoid?
2. Why does one need all of the same sized barbs, does that apply to compression fittings?
3. Can you put more than one pump in a system?
Thank you, great thread.
As a side note, how do you feel about the H220? Will it be able to run a whole loop?

A couple of things:
1. What about other materials such as silver, nickle, acetal(?) etc. What works together? What do I avoid?
2. Why does one need all of the same sized barbs, does that apply to compression fittings?
3. Can you put more than one pump in a system?
Thank you, great thread.
As a side note, how do you feel about the H220? Will it be able to run a whole loop?

A couple of things:
1. What about other materials such as silver, nickle, acetal(?) etc. What works together? What do I avoid?
2. Why does one need all of the same sized barbs, does that apply to compression fittings?
3. Can you put more than one pump in a system?
Thank you, great thread.
As a side note, how do you feel about the H220? Will it be able to run a whole loop?

A couple of things:
1. What about other materials such as silver, nickle, acetal(?) etc. What works together? What do I avoid?
2. Why does one need all of the same sized barbs, does that apply to compression fittings?
3. Can you put more than one pump in a system?
Thank you, great thread.
As a side note, how do you feel about the H220? Will it be able to run a whole loop?

that is quite possibly the worst tutorial I have every seen. Not just because it doesn't tell me anything, but it is more than a little patronizing. No duh there's a search function, if you didn't know that, you were probably going to find out soon.
Also, WTF are "keywords" just words that might have something to do with the problem I'm having? Unfortunately, allot of errors don't give messages!
The best thing to do, is skim the front page of the appropriate section, and if what you want to know isn't there, post!

Well, this is what I made myself. 3 straws in 1, and some cracks.

Let the ISP's use the BT fibre lines, its not just cable, its thousands in one large bundle so it'd be the same as the copper lines, plus BT dont have to give a fuck about the other ISP's the less competition for them the better, the other ISP's could still use the network of fiber that BT put down but BT could charge them a rental fee making BT the cheapest fiber broadband provider = BT profit and its good for consumers too

+1 for E3 !!!!!!

Personally, I was looking for a product like this for a very long time, a prefilled water cooling kit that allows for further expantion without any of the custom loop hassles.
I also would love to see the same product with different options on the radiator e.g. (triple 120, double thickness single 120 & 140, dual 140..etc )

So, here's my experiences, that I can come to think of now:
 
- After I've fixed a computer for a friend or relative, they always blame me for every future problem.
- Two guys were talking in an MMORPG I used to play, and one of them said that he overclocked his hard drive and his computer is now more than twice as fast.
- Whenever I tell someone that I like computers and technology, they always assume I just post stuff on Facebook and play Farmville all day long.
- My mom freak out every time an email from someone she doesn't know, slips through the spam filter and end up in her inbox. Something worth mentioning is that she use hotmail, so she freaks out a lot.
 
Edit: fixed the formatting.

my aunt who is constantly complaining about her slow Pentium 4 computer, and when people tell her to buy a new one already, she says "no its fine."

Cuting my finger when installing the I/O shield like , every freaking time lol

Forgetting to flip the power switch on the PSU.

In all seriousness, i don't think it's wise for a 14 year old to splurge 5000 dollars on a PC, despite being 16 myself, even after 8 months of research and i'm only starting my build now, my budget is barely $1500 max.. $5000 on a FIRST BUILD when you have no idea how to maintain/take care of a PC may result in pretty bad problems.
Just my $0.02

Hello all, this is Gabriel Rouchon (aka Gabe), CEO and Swiftech's founder. Here are my comments/responses to this rant.

I read DDR4 will not be viable until beginning 2015 because controllers, motherboards etc still have to be developed and Intel is stagnating because AMD is no competition.
DDR4 will be a huge improvement in terms of speed but frankly, we don't need that speed. RAM speed is hardly a bottleneck these days.
I would like to see DDR4 on a APU platform though, because those processors do have a great performance boost when coupled with fast ram.

Hey guys, I've compiled a table of the most common or popular mechanical keyboards, and their different features, in the hopes it will fill a void that people seem to be having
Popular features for gaming such as backlighting and macro keys are their own columns, as well as size (Fullsize is standard 104key, TKL is 87key or tenkeyless, Compact is smaller like 75%, 60% etc.)

Click here for larger image
Most of these keyboards can be found at
- NCIX (Coolermaster, Corsair, Mionix, Razer, Filco, Steelseries, Das Keyboard)
- Newegg (Coolermaster, Corsair, Mionix, Razer, Steelseries, Rosewill, Das Keyboard)
- MechanicalKeyboards (Coolermaster, Razer, Corsair, Steelseries, Rosweill, Das Keyboard, Ducky, Vortex)
- EliteKeyboards (Leopold, Topre, Happy Hacking)
- KeyboardCo (Filco, UK & International)
- Vendio's eStore (Noppoo, Ducky, Keycool, HPE)
- TigerImports (Ducky)
- WASDKeyboards (Self explanatory)
As well, most of these keyboards can be found new or used on the Geekhack or Deskthority marketplaces
Let me know what you think!
Did I leave any keyboards out that you think should be included, should I make some more notes, or add some columns?
It's an excel spreadsheet so I can sort it whichever way is useful, I may make it available to download later

I think I'll wait for Linus to get his hands on one of these, test it and compare it to other coolers :]
Until then, I'll wait and hold onto any assumptions.
But good point on why the heck DIY-ers would get this?! It's definitely aimed towards the new people. I would like to hear why Swiftech thinks DIY-ers would get this...
In any case, it is definitely a good starter kit, especially compared to starter custom water cooling kits, where it's just a bunch of pieces picked out for you, but you still have to put it together... Thus why I think a lot of people choose to get closed loop systems. It's plug and play. But this is where the H220 shines, because it is expandable in the future, where as closed loops aren't...
I guess in the end, Swiftech's marketing scheme is kind of blegh. They made it sound like this is the cooler to rule them all!! But it is CES, they are trying to sell their products, so they try to say as many good thing as they can. Look at Apple revealing their products. Same thing. I guess what I'm saying is that, it's business. It's your job as a consumer to make the smart decision in the end, that's right for you.
But it is good that you pointed out these things! It helps us, the community of consumers, see better when researching these products, because I for sure was sold ASAP, when I saw the video, then I decided to see what others think and I guess at this point, it's a waiting game for actual hands on reviews. Great post!

So what about it makes it a worse choice from other non custom coolers?
This post is full of assumptions about bias so it comes off rather tin foil hat like. Do you have any actual evidence suggesting an actual intended manipulation of results? The silicon lottery is irrelevant, for the sake of a live demo multiple chips have to be used.
Companies frequently use competitors products in demos that favorably showcase their own results, this is not bad business, that was the very purpose of the Pepsi challenge (since you mentioned coke/pepsi).
It seems like you are nitpicking a live demo out of brand loyalty to another company in my opinion.
I'll wait for reviews before I make my decision on the product, not a couple youtube videos of a live demo.

A couple of things:
1. What about other materials such as silver, nickle, acetal(?) etc. What works together? What do I avoid?
2. Why does one need all of the same sized barbs, does that apply to compression fittings?
3. Can you put more than one pump in a system?
Thank you, great thread.
As a side note, how do you feel about the H220? Will it be able to run a whole loop?

Console, with friends.
PC, alooone, with friends over internet
:)

Just for the record, this also explain why some chips are better than others clocks for clocks.

Well, a flop is an actual measure of calculations per second. A hertz is just "something per second"
Actually, chip speed, in hertz, is a misleading way to judge processors, because it only measures the number of cycles per second that the chip can engage in. It doesn't measure the number of calculations the processor can perform.
ACTUAL processor speed is cycles x flops. So sometimes a chip that has a lower cycle rate (i.e. 1.6 vs. 1.8 gHz) will be more effective because it runs at a higher number of flops (300 PF vs. 250 PF).

Water cooling Basic
Water cooling breaks down into two subcategories:

1) Custom Loop cooling- You add different parts to make a whole water cooling loop. These consist of; Pumps, Water blocks, (CPU, GPU, Mobo, Mosfets, Ram HDD If you can think of a computer part someone makes a block for it.) Radiators, and lastly Reservoir. You can mix and match all these different parts in different way to create a loop that is tailored made for your system.
2) All in one closed cooling loops- The name is pretty self explanatory. These all self contained cooling system that pull all those different parts into one unite. They are always sealed and cannot be opened. They compare to good high end air cooling apparatuses but cannot keep up with a custom cooling loop. I won't be cover just about anything on these as they are very popular products and don't need much explanation

Your budget is going too decided on which route you will take on these two ideas. If you are looking to stay under $150 you will probably want to go with the All in one closed cooling loops. You will get what you pay for with this group. If you are looking to jump into the Custom water cooling world look to start with about $300 and it will go up from there. I have seen people on this forum that easily spend $1000+ on their loops. Don't think you can cheap out on WC you will regret it in the end and more than likely spending more because of it.

Watercooling basic theory and Delta-T
*This all comes from TomsHardware Sticky v2 by Rubix_1011 all credit goes to him. He does far better job explaining this all then I could. (http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky)

Watercooling is based on the set of principles that water is proportionally better than air to conduct heat away from a heat source based on conduction, or the direct contact of a heated source and a cooling source to transfer heat energy rather than convection, otherwise known as thermal conductivity. The ability of a substance to directly absorb heat energy is considered it's specific heat; in this case, the ability of heat directly absorbed by water and the required energy to raise overall temperatures by 1°C. While convection takes place with normal air coolers to provide the ability for air to absorb dissipated heat from the cooler, watercooling also employs this concept to some degree. Once the water absorbs heat energy via conduction from the blocks, it then transfers that through tubing to radiators cooled by fans. The difference is that a larger amount of heat energy is able to be absorbed and moved at any given time with a water loop due to pump flow forcing turbulent water through the radiator tubes while the radiator provides greater surface area to conduct heat energy from the water to the radiator and then into the air. The process is more efficient at transferring, displacing and dissipating excess heat energy based on the delta-T of the loop design. In short, the ability of water's excellent specific heat allow it to absorb heat much more quickly and efficiently from a source of heat (as well as also dissipating that heat back to a cooling source for dissipation) so it can also transport far more of that absorbed energy due to the thermal capacity of it as a medium away from heat sources to be expelled elsewhere.


Thermal Conductivity of Common Cooling Mediums (@~20°C; W/mK)
Higher values are better

Water...............................................0.610
Mineral Oil........................................0.162
Alcohol(Ethyl, Isopropyl, Buytl)...........0.161-0.200
Ethylene Glycol..................................0.258
Air...................................................0.0257


Specific Heat of Common Cooling Mediums (@~20°C;kJ/kg.K)
Higher values are better

Water...............................................4.19
Air...................................................1.00
Mineral Oil........................................1.67
Copper.............................................0.093
Ethylene glycol..................................2.36
Copper.............................................0.093
Ethylene glycol..................................2.36

When it comes to figuring out how much radiator you need for your specific loop, you have to start doing some math. I know that we all have been building a loop and thought, ˜how many, what size and what kind of radiators do I need for this loop to stay cool like I want?"

First tip: Google is your best friend to help find TDP (Thermal Design Power}

Finding out what the TDP or your CPU or GPU is can be as simple as doing some searches by searching for i7 2600k TDP', GTX 580 TDP, or AMD 6970 TDP. Remember to account for all components, if you run a multi-card graphics setup, you need to include the TDP values for all cards in the total. For example, our i7 2600k has a stock TDP of about 95 watts at 100% load (estimated). If we have a 2x SLI setup of GTX 580's, we are looking at about 244 watts at 100% load, per card. Total? About 583 watts in heat that these three components can potentially produce when at 100% load, simultaneously; it's also safe to consider that heat dissipation can never be 100% efficient of power consumption, so even calcuating 85-90% of your TDP total is pretty safe. (This also translates very closely to wattage when you need to consider a power supply for your system, but you need to account for the remaining components: motherboard, fans, hard drives, DVD drives, etc. To help calculate a full system TDP, you can use a tool like the Extreme PSU Calculator (link). In short, when calculating loop TDP, simply add up the total values for components being cooled in the loop...if you have more than one video card, make sure you add in TDP for each one. If you want to simply calculate the overclocked TDP wattage of your CPU, just adjust the CPU section of the calculator or utilize the calculation listed a bit later.

Once you have calculated your total loop TDP potential, you need to consider radiators that dissipate heat in watts depending on flow rate of your loop and fans being used and their speeds/power. For this task, I almost always refer to *Skinneelabs.com link from Archive.org* for all of this crucial information, graphs and comparisons.

For example, I am going to reference the XSPC RX360 radiator for this loop. Given the total TDP of 583 watts, I want to know if this single radiator is enough for my loop, or if I should consider another radiator.



Looking at this chart, we can see that the maximum amount of heat this radiator can dissipate is around 555 watts using 2800 rpm fans (very fast, very loud). You could get better results in a push/pull scenario, but that's even louder; you may be able to live with a 15-20° delta and loud fans if you went this route.

In short, Delta-T is the load temperature of the water in your loop when compared to ambient air temps; if your room ambient is 27°C, and load water temp is 34°C, this gives you an approximate Delta of 7°C if you are running 100% load on all components being cooled by the loop. Basically, delta-T is a mathematical derivative of your ambient room temperature, flow rate, heat to be dissipated (in watts) and the ability of your radiator to dissipate heat (in watts) depending on fans used to produce the cooling impact by the loop as a whole. You'll notice the chart above has a listing of different fans in the upper-left corner: this determines the angle of the graph and the temperature delta on the left side of the graph. Lower fan speeds correlate to a higher delta-T as you add more heat in watts to the loop. The more heat you produce, the more important it is to remove it from the loop; and fans help accomplish this goal. If you notice the actual temperatures on the lines of the graph at the determined points (around 300 watts of load and around 555 watts), you'll see that the fan speed allows the heat dissipation to be rather normalized. However, the further to the right (and up the graph you go), you'll also notice that your delta-T rises. Below a 5° is incredibly good, 10° is still very good and even 15° deltas are very much the norm. If we wanted to run this loop at a 10° delta, we would need to run two of these RX360 radiators to keep the heat load in watts below 300 watts dissipated per radiator with fans of 600-2800 rpm (in a single-fan setup; push/pull would allow some leniency here; perhaps a RX360 and an RX240, instead).

Granted, TDP and determining our delta-T isn't an exact science, but it gets us pretty close. It's a bit more tedius to calculate CPU overclocked wattage; however, here is a great calculation to help CPU overclocking and estimated TDP:

OC Wattage = TDP * ( OC MHz / Stock MHz) * ( OC Vcore / Stock Vcore )^2

[TABLE=width: 760]


[TR]

[TD]
Quote :

Example:
Intel i7 2600k
3.4ghz (3400mhz)
1.25v
95 watts TDP

For this example I will use a relatively average overclock voltage of 1.35v to reach 4.5ghz (4500mhz)

OC Wattage = TDP x ( OC MHz / Stock MHz) x ( OC Vcore / Stock Vcore )^2

OC Wattage = 95 x (4500/3400) x (1.35/1.25)^2

OC Wattage = 95 x (1.3235) x (1.08)^2

OC Wattage = 95 x 1.3235 x 1.1664

OC Wattage = 147 (which is exactly what was calculated by the PSU calculator for overclocked CPU watts on this chip)
[/TD]

[/TR]


[/TABLE]

*This is all very complicated and can be hard to understand. You will likely need to do more reading then what I can provide here. I do have a general rule that you can read about in the Rad section of this guide that can make all this complicated stuff unnecessary.
[h=2]For more information please refer to overclocker.com Guide to Delta-T in Water Cooling[/h]
[h=2]http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/[/h]

Water Cooling 101
I have been reading a lot of posting in this sub-forum and am seeing a lot of the same questions. So I figured this forum need some basic guide to water cooling. My basic idea is to take a ton of information on the internet and condense it down to as short and simple explanation of Water cooling. This should be a good starting place for most people. You will need to much more research than just this to be a successful water cooler.

I have spoken to a Mod and this should be made into a sticky soon.

My goal with this guide is to be of a FAQ than more of a building guide. Try and explain everything that has to do with what goes into a custom water cooling loop. I am trying to make a guide that will work well with Linus's water cooling videos on the NCIXcom Youtube channel. Trying hard not to cover what he has but make sure nothing is missed.

So welcome to my Basic Noobies guide to water cooling. Please feel free to comment or post with your ideas of what I could add or change.

So why do we water cool? Why would you want to stick a tank of water in a box of very expensive electronics?
This is a question that gets asked a lot on the forum and I thought one of our members summed it up best;

From our own MdX MaxX;
“It's not just about temperatures, but about noise. With water cooling, you can run fans at much lower speeds and lower noise levels than you can with air cooling and achieve the same temperatures. Especially for GPUs, I mean GPU fans get loud. Plus you have the benefit of cooling everything you want in the same loop.

And "good enough" isn't what enthusiasts strive for. Sure, multi-hundred dollar loops aren't necessary. An NH-D14 or Silver Arrow is "good enough." But being a PC enthusiast is much more than having a "good enough" rig. Most people here would have much lower-specced PCs if they only wanted what was "good enough" for them.

Also, it's fun. Building is fun. Taking on [such] an intensive project is a thrilling challenge for a lot of people. You get to really absorb the experience rather than putting together a system in 2-3 hours and then you're done.

And lastly, water cooling loops are freaking gorgeous. I mean look at them.

I would just add that for most of us that use water cooling is more than getting the best performance out of your rig. For most of us it is a hobby. Once you get started it is hard to stop. You always want to try something new or add something to you loop, or even multiple loops.