VioDuskar

What does this even mean? Are you looking to find your max temps? Are you looking to build pressure to look for leaks? 

How exactly are you planning to plug your console into your PC?

Go USB C. A isn't going out of style anytime soon, but C allows you to plug it into smaller and smaller form factor devices like phones, or thin books with only a USB C port.
 
Plus, you can always get an A-C adapter if you can live with some speed loss.

tks to @thrasher_565, @keskparane, @si1enze, @VioDuskar and @seanondemand for your comments and insights....I ran speed tests with the two options.  The wire, "as anticipated", is a bit faster in the "off-hours".  I guess my original reflex will remain the option I'll use.
 
Tks again to you all!

77c is completely fine.  Bit high for a desktop perhaps but for a Laptops I would call that acceptable.   No need to undervolt as its not being thermal limited so far.

you can't just drag and drop the "windows" folder to the new drive. the best way to do what your asking is to clone the boot drive to the new drive, but you can't because your new drive is smaller. 

you'll have to do a fresh install of windows, sorry. 

yes. 

I too an an "actual" engineer. Allow me to refute the claims pointed out in the video you posted.
 
First and foremost, let me disclose the following, I actually like DazMode, they've been around for decades for the PC modding community and they've done some interesting products back in the day. This was back when you had to do custom metal work and paint to showoff a system, great stuff.
 
That said, this is also why their "opinion" (as stated in the start of the video) is biased. They are a PC modding company, they make money by modding systems and selling components/tools to mod systems, or modded works themselves. RGB lighting has impacted the PC modding industry quite a bit because people are aiming for neutral colors on their chassis/components and are instead using lighting to achieve the colors they are looking for. It made customization more accessible to the everyday consumer and put less emphasis on modding.
 
My personal opinion is that I dislike RGB lighting and have stripped every piece of RGB off my system:

 
Despite my disdain towards RGB lighting in my personal system, I am not a fan of DazMode spreading misinformation, let alone you regurgitating it as fact in a means to bolster your subjective opinion as if it were fact. RGB lighting does indeed consume power, but to argue that this is detrimental to the system itself has no technical foundation to stand on. Here is a cited source that isn't an opinion: https://www.ekwb.com/blog/leds/
 
Let's start with the EK VARDAR fans. Let's say you bought yourself a Corsair 1000D and decided to buy 15 EK Vardar 120mm fans with it since Corsair decided in their infinite wisdom to sell a $600 chassis that supports 15 fans but didn't want to include any fans with it. That's 34.5W from the RGB chassis fans according to EK's RGB power testing. But, since we really love RGB lighting, lets add in some memory. Now since I am an "actual" engineer, and have to abide by California's new Title 25 requirements, I've actually tested power consumption on RGB lighting, including memory. I saved 1.2W by disabling RGB lighting on a 2x32GB kit of Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR5 6000Mhz C36 memory, so lets pretend we have 4 DIMMs and add 2.4W to our previous 34.5W, bringing us to 36.9W. Well, I love water cooling, so lets water cool everything (except the memory, we want that to be hot and flashy). Let's add in EK's EK-Velocity D-RGB – AMD Nickel + Acetal CPU block (4.4W), The EK-RES X4 250 (3.3W) and a couple RTX 4090 water blocks because why not? (1.3W x2). Motherboard RGB lighting power consumption depends on the board, but lets pretend we have the ASUS X670E Crosshair Extreme, the most obnoxious RGB board currently on my bench in the lab. A mighty 5W worth of RGB on a motherboard alone:

 
After some mathification and scientifics, we arrive at 52.2W!.... In the worst possible RGB system configuration imaginable (if we ignore RGB SSDs and PSUs because I currently don't have any in my lab). Still, 52.2W. That's a lot of heat, right? I mean, that's basically a GTX 750 Ti... Which could be passively cooled without an active fan...
 
All joking and facetious wording aside, 52W of heat spread across your entire system across dozens of devices with 15 fans worth of airflow is insignificant. I am not going to explain the basic heat transfer equation or targeted cooling rate, but you can find simple calculators online that will demonstrate how much airflow you'll need to dissipate radiative heat from components. In this case, we'd need to dissipate 52.2W of radiative heat. Let's assume ambient temperature of 70F, and a desired chassis exit temperature of 80F (roughly 5C above ambient), we would need the radiative airflow in our chassis to be moving at 16.56CFM or 56.27 M3/H to achieve that goal. To put this into perspective, a single EK VARDAR 120mm fan can move 77CFM or 131 M3/H and we stuffed 15 of them into a chassis...
 
To make the air exiting our system 1F hotter than the air entering (assuming the same details as above) it would take 165.8CFM or 281.33 M3/H worth of airflow moving throughout the volume of our chassis at a 52.2W load. Or, slightly more than 2 of these EK VARDAR 120 fans. We can safely round to 3 and assume that the third fan overcomes static pressure limitations to achieve the desired airflow requirements, meaning adding 52.2W of radiative heat to our chassis made it run 1F hotter because we had 3 fans spinning.
 
Keep in mind, the above is a strictly worst case scenario. Your average PC gamer isn't buying a $600 chassis with 15 RGB fans, an RGB CPU block, two RGB GPU blocks, an RGB pump/res combo and a $1000 RGB motherboard.
 
If you want to hate RGB because you personally do not like it, that is great. I'll join you in that club, but do not attempt to proclaim your subjective opinion as fact by backing it up with nonsensical misinformation because someone claiming to have an engineering background shared their opinion on a subject. Arguments based entirely on subjective opinions cannot be "won" because there are no right or wrong answers, no winners or losers. You shared your views. People have chosen to either agree or disagree. You'll have to leave it at that.
 
The problem with them using "real heatsinks" is surface area. A flat surface isn't sufficient to handle much heat, and once you add surface area to DIMMs, you run the risk of utilizing too much space that you can't fit multiple DIMMs in a board, or those gaudy tall heatsinks that were incompatible with 90% of the tower air coolers. These companies need to design products that cater to the majority of the market, not us niche overclockers. I'd almost prefer it if they went back to including fan kits like they did with the old DDR3 Samsung based HYKO DIMMs, but that costs money and was e-waste for most people, lol.
 
The PMIC thermal situation you've mentioned is indeed a problem, but honestly it's not hard to overcome. On my open bench, I prefer to remove heatspreaders and have a fan pointing directly at the DIMMs. This has been sufficient for me even at comical voltages. You could also go the route of water cooling the DIMMs but trust me, that becomes a pain when you get that binning itch and want to start overclocking competitively. I'll never do copper or hard tubing again because of that, lol.

You need to Update your BIOS to the latest version, then your CPU may work. 
You also might need to set your BIOS PCIe setting to 3.0 manually, as the RTX3070 is a PCIe Gen4 GPU. 

Always check compatibility before buying new parts. 
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/X370-GAMING-PLUS/support#cpu

Also read release notes for your BIOS before updating:
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/X370-GAMING-PLUS/support

dude, all of those little processes that use RAM add up. I don't think you have a virus. 
This looks like normal usage to me. 

it sounds like you're not considering Cache. Windows also makes a Cache on the disk that it can use as RAM. 

You may be being a hypochondriac about it. 

Cases are just mounts in a container. Everything's fine outside of it. My main PC ran out of a cardboard box for a good 2 months! You'll be good under the same conditions things are good in a case: as long nothing gets in there that shouldn't be there, you'll be fine!

sometimes i just do it to feel something

are you still running your signature specs? that's a 10+ year old rig right there! 

AMD Phenom II overclocking is the video that got me watching linus in the first place. 
Plus the stories of Slick and his mineral oil rig. 

it inspired me to make my first PC build, which was a Phenom II in oil in a custom case that I built. 

I'd say do it, get it fully modular, and from a reputable brand with a solid warranty. This way you'll be able to use the same PSU well into your next build or two. 

(I still have a 750W from 2010 that is still in service.) 

you lost the silicone lottery, sorry champ. 

you're gold rated. good luck on all your future builds, hopefully with that same PSU. 

as a former 1000D owner, I can say this series by Corsair is too big. it's huge. here's a copy pasta to describe it. 

HOLY COW. Your Case is gigantic. GIGANTIC. Your Case is literally the biggest thing within the tri-state area. Your Case is bigger than a small elephant. It is bigger than, like, a tree. A big ol' tree. Probably a coniferous. Lots of branches on your Case. You must wake up every morning and thank the good lord above. You are truly blessed. Congrats.

I have to keep AURA and (whatever Gigabyte's RGB software is called) installed and iCue seems to be able to control the AURA stuff, but it never recognizes the Gigabyte RGB GPU I have. 

I try to just stick with Corsair and ASUS if i can, the GPU is an exception because i got it from a newegg shuffle. 

Corsairs is meh, but it works. 

you can see if OpenRGB works too. it's suppose to support everything (kinda)
https://openrgb.org/

Corsairs is meh, but it works. 

you can see if OpenRGB works too. it's suppose to support everything (kinda)
https://openrgb.org/

agreed, show us the drive's booty. 

What's on the back side of the drive? Seems like the controller is there, so I'm wondering if they consolidated two DRAM chips into one on the back side.

You'd probably see an improvement in temps, but I doubt you'd see a performance increase since enabling pbo is about the most you'd want to try anyways with a 5600. I'd personally just keep the gift card for something else

first, don't buy EA games! 
secondly, if you want to buy games you better install ALL the launchers! STEAM GOG EA EPIC BATTLENET ROCKSTAR-CLUB-THING UPLAY! install them ALL!!!!!!

no FR FR, no cap, just don't buy the game. you'll have to use the launcher.